Hi, I ended up with an orphaned 1991 40HA, 5200 hrs, deutz 4wd and bang-bang controls, and have been slowly getting it up to speed. I have 2 questions: 1. The boom out section rides on wear pads that are squeaking sometimes, sounds like rubber more than metal on metal. For light farm use, could I just grease those and be OK, or does it have to be new wear pads. Does replacing or reshimming the pads require pulling that mess apart or can it be done in place? 2. Does anybody know which line on the engine driven fuel pump is the supply and output? Can't get that from the JLG manuals, don't have the Deutz F2L manual. The pump has two identical barbs, one going to the smaller diameter cylindrical area furthest from the engine, the other going to a larger diameter cylindrical area. Also, it works fine with an electric fuel pump plumbed in, but will the mechanical one get ruined if I bypass it for more than a brief test like I have done? I just changed fuel line, filter, etc. and couldn't get it started till I primed it with the electric pump. BTW, it runs with the electric pump off, for now, (high fuel tank level) but didn't hook it back to the mechanical pump yet. P.S. I still have the antique 40F, and keep it running, so I read every page of the great help you guys have given.
You can shim the 40H boom without boom section removal, although the top/rear pads on the telescope boom are not all that easy to get to with the telescope cylinder mounting in the way. Assuming the pads and shims were fitted properly in the first place, you check the gap at the top/outside wear pads and telescope boom. If there is a gap there, add shims to lower/outside wear pads, that is if pad is still good. Then pull rear cover off of boom, check gap at top/inside wear pad. If there's a gap, add shims to those wear pads, not lower/inside pads. Not sure what type of mechanical lift pump you have, but if it's an F2L912, most of the ones I have worked on have the inlet to the right and outlet to the left. It shouldn't hurt it to run engine briefly on electric pump, then simply connect a short hose to one of the barbs and drop it in some fuel to see if it pumps fuel.
OK, I've got the idea about which pads to shim: basically, the ones that get the pressure on them when extended. I have an HA which doesn't have as much of a boom or track for the hoses as a regular 40H stick boom. Is there still a way to deal with the shims on the HA without removing the telescoping section? Also, are the older pads designed to be greased? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Sorry, didn't catch that it was an HA, my bad. I can't remember for certain, but I'm thinking you can't really access the inside wear pads on an HA the way the telescope boom is built. But the outside wear pads should be no problem to work on. One thing to keep in mind is on the HA is the side wear pad adjustment is even more important than on typical H booms as the HA platform has a high center of gravity on the end of the boom. If the side wear pads are not shimmed proper, it will cause basket to wobble when you move from one side of the basket to the other side. You can use grease to lubricate the boom where wear pads rub, I've used motorcycle spray chain lube before as well. I leaves a lubricating film on the boom and is way less messy than grease on a boom.
we use a spray on called moly lube .goes on wet but dries quick leaving a slippery surface.I will get the name off the can and post it on here .Real good stuff .We use it on all the boom ,scissor and telehandlers.
Thanks, guys. Also, my basket rotator is frozen up, or has a pin in it that I can't find. Have you ever had that happen? The control valve goes into relief, bogging down the engine a little, but no movement. It's not a big deal, since I'm just doing chores on the farm with it, but just wondering if there was a shipping pin dropped in someplace that I can't see it, or if the motor is just rusted or gunked up.
The engine will load slightly when you operate basket rotate motor because oil goes through orifice valves which restrict oil flow. The most common problem on basket rotator is sheared roll pin that connects motor shaft to worm gear, item #208. On most JLG platforms you can remove the cover #127, but you typically have to loosen basket mounting bolts #117 to have required clearance to remove cover. Once cover is removed, you can view operation of rotate components and will likely find your problem. Oh, almost forgot, don't be surprised if hoses and fittings on motor prevent removal of cover, you might have to remove hoses and possibly hose fittings as well.
Wow, that's neat that you put in the illustration and the red arrow. I didn't even think of the possibility that it could be turning a sheared pin since there is some strain on the system, but the restrictors would cause that, I see now. Knowing what and where to look is a great help. Thanks again.
New to the forum, trying to get my required replys in so I can post a question. Thanks, I enjoy reading all the responses.