Early to mid 90's 40ha with hyd controls. Now this may be coincidental but the other day I welded on the platform ancd since then it does not idle up after depressing the foot switch or fror that matter when I have it on ground control on the ground control panel. I can move the machine and hyds. It just doesn't speed up. The engine speed switch on the platform panel has no effect. It worked perfectly before. I am wondering what controls this ,,,,relay or just a wire. I can hear the relay under the platform panel clicking when I depress the foot switch. Ford dual fuel engine but only the gasoline side works right now. Just wanted to know wher to start looking. I think it did this last year as well once but came out of it. Also, would anyone have a clear set of electrical diagrams? The downloaded pdf from JLG is just crap,,,,can't read a lot of it. :Banghead
Well, I'm puzzled ksp. My experience with these machines, and looking at the schematic, they should only throttle up when your operating the drive. Now, you may be talking about the governor maintaining the engine speed when operating functions to prevent stalling engine. But in either case, the footswitch has no control over engine speed. Curious that you say it did before, because it shouldn't. The only relay that should be in the upper control box for machine with hyd controls would be relay for drive creep function. You would possibly hear it click when foot switch depressed. Propane not working could be a number of things. Did it work on propane previously and then stopped working? Could be vacuum lock off or propane solenoid valve. As for the schematics, have you tried printing them using a good quality printer? Many times, printed copies come out looking much better than viewing the PDF diagrams on the computer. One thing you want to keep a check on with your 40HA is the wiring harness in the area of alternator. It's just below the exhaust manifold and gets a lot of heat. I have had to repair wiring in that area on several of these machines where the wiring is damaged by heat. I think I have even used a heavier gauge wire from alternator when making these repairs.
1) I just meant that I have not yet tried to use propane as some of the parts like the vacum switch seems to be broke so I just run it on regular gas. 2) Normally when I step on the foot switch the engine rpms go up from an idle to lets say 1200 rpm(just a guess). Now the PO may have screwed around with this, I don't know. If the foot switch does not control the engine rpm then how would it not stall? When I let up it will idle back down. It actually works very well this way. So if the switch isn't supposed to control the engine speed, what tells it to bring the rpm up? 3) There is a high engine switch which I assumed was for travel speed. 4) There also is a high/low speed switch as well. 5) I have very good printers at work but still havwe bad results in printing the diagrams I want. They are unreadable when I blow them up in the pdf so I think they are just bad images. Do you have a better set you could share? 6) Jeez I hate intermittant problems......It started to work like it had this afternoon out of the blue like I said it did last year. 7) I'll take a look a the wiring around the alternator tomorrow. Thanks for you help with this, I know it will quit working again.
Well, it's possible your machine might have a mid range board on it that's powered up by the foot switch, it's just not on the original diagrams. Typically, the 40HA just used the Precision Governor E-201 throttle contoller. The 201 simple held the engine at a low rpm. if you operated a function that put load on the engine, it would throttle the engine to maintain that set rpm. When you released the function, it would stop throttling engine. When you operate the drive, the PQ controller puts out a voltage signal that sends voltage to the hi drive and hi engine switch. When you select these switches, the voltage is then sent to their repective controls to change engine rpm to a hi rpm for drive or voltage to engage hi drive. If you happen to have a mid range board, you should find it mounted inside the lower control box. It would be a small maybe 4" x 3" electrical circuit board mounted in there.
I don't see a box inside the lower control panel but I did look on the backside and I saw a box that said Precision Governor and was about the size you described. Normally when I start thr lift from the ground position on lower panel the engine will run at high idle speed and after warming it up a bit I switch it to platform and it will slow down until I step on foot switch. Perhaps it was retrofitted? The unit stays in high drive until the boom get high unless I switch it to low speed on the control panel.
That black box mounted on the backside of the lower control box is the E-210 Precision Governor control box, at least, that's what it originally was. :tong I have seen machines retrofitted with different Precision Governor boxes, not unusual. The mid range board, whether from factory or retrofitted, would be mounted inside the lower control box. It won't be mounted in a box like the E-201 is, it will simple be a small electronic circuit board mounted in there. It's would be the only circuit board inside that box if there was one. I have installed mid range boards on machines to improve their boom operating performance. Yes, there is a hi drive cut out switch on boom. When the boom/basket is low to the ground, you can toggle in and out of hi drive by using the hi drive switch at the platform controls. Once you boom up beyond a certain height, the hi drive cut out switch on the boom prevents machine from being engaged in hi drive, operating switch at platform makes no change then, you only have low speed drive. Haven't looked on the diagram, but the hi drive cut out may kill the hi engine speed as well.
ok, well it looks like I don't have that circuit board but none the less the foot switch does regulate the engine speed. So I guess I have an oddball outfit!!!!!!!!! The hi/low switch does nothing to the engine speed. Can I send you the diagram I have and see if it is the same as yours? Perhaps that would explain it. I am no good at reading those things.
Sure, you can send me the diagram, I'll take a look at it. I'm just looking at the diagrams in the parts book and service manual and this machine usually isn't any different than other JLG's like it, say, 40H, 60H, 60HA. All of these models typically don't operate the throttle when working boom functions, the hi throttle only works during drive. The only thing they typically do is the precision governor controller maintains the engine rpm with changes of engine load while operating functions.
That would be the same manual I am looking at. My version date is April 15, 1990 Revised April 1995. The serial # is 0309013670 of the lift if that helps you any. The question is what in the world is triggering the engine to speed up then? I wish I knew someone close that had one. I'd go take a look at that and see how it's different. I guess I will have to keep looking at this thing.
Are you saying when you step on the footswitch, it revs to high rpm? or just revs to a slightly higher rpm than idle?
I am guessing it speeds to 1500-2000 rpm. When I flip the high engine speed switch it jumps another 1000 rpm. Now keep in mind it willonly speed up with the foot switch depressed. Basically nothing on the platform will work unless I depress the foot switch.
Correct. The footswitch is the deadman switch. It locks out all platform controls when you remove your foot. Typically, the engine rpm remains at a set speed, controlled by precision governor controller. Even when you drive, it will remain at that set rpm, unless you select the hi engine toggle switch, then the rpm will jump up to a high engine speed. But it should only run at this high engine speed when operating drive controller. Boom operations should not increase the engine to this high rpm, regarless of position of "hi engine" switch because the hi engine switch only gets power from the drive controller when it's being operated. That's the way they are supposed to be anyway.
I understand. So what you are saying is that the only time you should get high rpm is when you are using the forward/reverse lever? How high of rpm are we talking on each level? Right now I like the fact that it idles way down to save gas and then it revs up when using the controls for power. I think I better take some pictures of my control panels and such to make sure we are on the same page here. I'll try and get that done tomorrow. Thanks for you help atcoequip.
only time it gets high rpm is when using drive controller...yes. but it bumps up when using boom functions, typically, no. how high does it bump up? to the same high rpm when operating drive? or, an rpm slightly lower?
When operating the drive system has no effect oint he rpm other than when depressing the foot switch. In other words the engine will only speed up after depressing the foot switch. Now while depressing the foot switch I can flip the high engine switch and it will speed up some more. Foot switch up = 800 rpm (these are all guesses) foot switch down = 1500 rpm foot switch down and high engine switch on = 2500 Like i said these are all guesses but it gives you an idea of what is happening. The thing is, I like how it works,,,,really wouldn't want to change it. But what you are saying is someone must have changed wiring to trigger the rpm from the foot switch instead of the drive PQ? I'll have to check with my brother,,,he had an older 40H years ago and I would have sworn that that one would do the same as mine.
I'm trying to get pictures uploaded but not having any luck right now. It magically started to work again but a hyd fitting broke so I am fixing that problem now. Love those intermittant problems. Anyway got any ideas on what would be triggering the high engine idle when depresssing the foot switch?
Be patient ksp, forum had a major hacker melt down this past week. The techs are still working on getting all parts of forum operational, including pics. As for your high engine when depressing foot switch, I'm really not sure as this isn't the norm for these machines. I would like to know how it's doing that myself if it doesn't use a mid range circuit board.
I'll keep looking into why it's idling up and get those pictures uploaded when I can.
Hi ksp, might take a while yet to get pics back on the forum. Be patient, I'm certain they're working on it. And I agree with you, if you machine throttles up a bit when you step on foot pedal and returns to idle when you let the foot pedal go, I wouldn't mess with it either. It will work fine that way. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering about the wiring in the platform box. You should have a brown/black wire on terminal #11 on the terminal strip. That's the wire that activates hi engine when driving. If you have a rev up that's a lower rpm than hi engine speed, it seems it would have to have a voltage signal to do this. There should be 4 wires of the 16/30 cable at the platform terminal strip that are typically spare wires, not being used for anything. Red wire/terminal #2, Yellow/terminal #5, Yel/Blu/#20, Orn/Yel/#30. Is there anything connected to any of these wires?
You are talking about under the cover on the platform? I don't recall there being a terminal block but I would have to pull the cover and take a look if so.
Yes, open the platform control box. If you don't have a terminal block in there, I'm really gonna wonder what kind of machine you have. LoL
Sorry to throw a wrench into your train of thought atco, but my JLG throttles up too when you step on foot switch.......must be something you flatlanders don't need...bah ha ha
LoL...yours is a little different that an H or a HA JLG gramps.
Haven't had time to look under the cover of basket controls because of rain but here are some pictures. oooopps pictures must not work yet. I'll keep you posted on what I find.
It's ok ksp, pics are still not working since forum bug from a couple weeks ago. Be patient, they'll get pics working as soon as they can.
Instead of pictures I would refer you to page 4-26 of the parts manual. This is what I have for controls. There is no junction block inside like the other types of controls. I am also using the 7-6 and 7-10 electrical diagrams for troubleshooting. I got these from the JLG web site and downloaded them. The file name is "Parts_3120673-08-01-06_ANSI_English"
Aw shucks...I had completly forgot that you and I had discussed your machine had hyd controls instead of electrical controls. :tong Nevertheless, the throttle control wiring remains pretty much the same. The high engine is controlled by the orange wire in the 16/12 cable that goes from platform control box to lower control box. I still would like to figure out how your getting a mid engine speed, because that's not on the original diagram. Initially, I'm curious how many relays are in the upper control box, there should only be one, the drive creep relay. Also, is there anything connected to the Blk/Red wire in the 16/12 cable.
I know from memory there is only one relay in that control box but will have to take the cover off to see if anything is connected to that wire.
Ok. I'm trying to noodle out how your getting a mid range engine rpm. This is just a starting point. All the wires on the 16/12 cable are being used by something, except the blk/red wire. Maybe they have the footswitch connected to it and it's sending a singnal to something to throttle it up a bit. But thats the next problem...how? Without a mid range board, I gotta figure out how you are obtaining a mid range speed with you Precision Governor control box. We'll dig around here and see if we can figure this one out. Plus, your just learning a little bit more about your machine.
Would you have a clearer e;lectrical diagram than what I have downloaded? There is so much that I cannot read fully.
Maybe. I'll have to find the schematics I have and see if there is one in there for the 40HA.
I'm looking at the wiring diagram and see that the 12/4 cable has a +12v to platform. Can I assume this supplies all the power to the platform controls? If I read this right the wire supplies volts to the circuit breaker then goes to the footswitch and to the ignition back on the 12/4 wire. The yellow wire on the foot switch when depressed supplies + power via the yellow wire to the creep relay and pin 3 "voltage supply". Wher does that go? Would that be the drive controller? Trying to figure out the flow and orign of electricity. Also, what purpose do the diode and capacitor serve? Thanks again for your help.
Yep, you are reading it correctly. Let's see if we can help you out in reading JLG diagrams, as they are not the easiest out there to read. The 12/4 (which means 12 gauge wire, 4 conductors or wires) has red wire to supply battery voltage to horn at platform. That way if something was to fail with the igintion circuits or wiring, the horn has it's own power supply so you can sound the horn and get someones attention. Orange wire is power supply to platform controls. Blue wire is ignition wire, it sends ignition voltage back down to lower control box to power up the machine and engine. Black wire is ground (earth) for platform controls. Power on the orange wire goes to the E-Stop switch, the E-stop sends power to the circuit breaker at platfom, then the power goes back to lower controls for iginiton, and it sends power to the foot switch using another 12/4 cable on the orange wire. The footswitch basically does three things. 1) it powers all platform electrical/hyd controls, making it a deadman switch. For example, if you were driving the machine, and removed your foot from the foot switch, the machine would stop, 2) It prevents you from operating the engine starter while foot switch is depressed and operating the machine. So you can only operate engine starter with foot off of foot switch, and 3) it prevents platform controls (such as drive controller) from operating while footswitch is up during engine cranking mode. When you depress foot switch, it sends power via yellow wires to creep relay and to pin #3 of the PQ drive controller harness plug. That provides power to the PQ controller. The resistor and diode in the yellow "power" circuit is to bleed off residual power after you release foot switch so it becomes a dead circuit. The yellow wire at the creep relay terminal 86 is to power the magnetic coil in the relay, but the relay needs ground to activate. Terminal 85 of the relay goes to lower control box via brn/blk wire. The brn/blk wire goes through the Tower boom stowed switch and the upper boom stowed switch, then to ground (earth) at lower control box. This provides ground for the creep relay when the tower and upper boom are down. If you raise either, it takes ground away from the creep relay causing the machine to drive in slow speed only. Another thing the yellow circuit from the footswitch does is power up the dump valve at the machine turntable. It does this via a red wire from the 16/12 cable connected to the yellow circuit at the steer switch. The dump valve is what prevents you from operating the boom functions by using the control levers unless you have your foot on the footswitch. Which "may" be what is causing your throttle to rev up, something connected to the dump valve circuit at lower controls. Even then, I'm not sure how it would be sending a signal to the Precision Governor control box and which model Precision Governor box you have. It originally would have been equipped with an E-301 control box.
Thanks for the info, it cleared some things up for me. My diagram is so hard to see that I can't tell sometimes what the wires are intended to operate. It would make things a lot easier if I had a diagram that I could read. With this info in hand I'll take a look again and see what I can discover when I get time. My platform cover is screwed up so it is rather difficult to get it off without messing the thing up but will look at it this weekend. I am in the middle of a house remodel and work with it as time allows. I need to finish the kitchen wiring and ceilling. I really appreciate your help on this.
I have been looking at the diagram and was wondering if you could expand a little on how the foot switch works? 1) Why are the yellow and black wires crossed over from side to side? 2) How does the circuit work to choose between high and low speed? I'm getting there!!
I'm not sure how your changing engine speed with foot switch, trying to figure that out myself. My best guess is engine governor control is somehow connected to the dump valve circuit, the red wire connected to steer switch. As for the foot switch operation, there are two switches inside the foot switch housing. Each switch has three terminals and they are described using terminology that is common when describing electrical switchs, relays, contacts, etc. One terminal is called C (Common), the other two are called N O (Normally Open), and N C (Normally Closed). The term Normal is used to described any switch, relay, or contact when it's not activated, such as when the engine is off and machine is not in use. All schematics are drawn in the "machine off" position. In the case with the foot switch, Normal would be when the switch is not depressed. The Common terminal of a switch or relay connects to either the N O, or N C terminals of the switch/relay depending on whether they are being activated or not. The N O and N C terminals never connect with each other. In the case with the foot switch, you can see on the diagram the orange wire sends power to the first switch at the C terminal of that switch. So with foot switch in Normal position (not being activated/depressed) the power at C terminal would be connect to the N C terminal being it's the close circuit. The N O is the open circuit in this position. The blue wire for the engine starter circuit is connected to the N C terminal, so in this position, you can start engine. At the same time, the red wire is connected to the N O terminal, this is the circuit for powering up controls at platform. Since it's on the open circuit in this position, there's no way you can operate machine functions while cranking engine. Once you have machine running and are going to operate it, you step on foot switch. Now things are not in there "Normal" position, which means things reverse. The N C is now the open circuit, and N O is the closed circuit. Now, with foot switch depressed, the red wire has power on it to enable platform controls, and the blue wire has no power, so starter will not operate. You have to study it for a minute, but you'll figure out the jumper wires to the second switch. The second switch is connected to the ground (earth) terminal on C of the switch. The function of the second switch is simply to remove residual power from the starting and control circuits after you have used them. For example; your foot is not on foot switch. You crank engine with the power from blue wire. Once engine starts, there could be (theoretically) some residual voltage on the blue wire. When you step on foot switch to operate machine, this action connnects the blue wire circuit to ground (earth), draining any residual voltage left in that circuit effectively disabling it. Same thing happens with the yellow jumper. It removes residual voltage from the operating circuit while cranking engine by connecting operating circuit to ground.
ahhh. makes sense when you explain it that way. You certainly have a gift in that you are clear and concise when you write. This will help a lot when "looking under the hood". Can you explain how it works to go between low and high ground speed? This thread my have to be a sticky!!
Well, thanks for the compliment ksp, but I'm just trying to help you learn how to read schematics. Clear and concise is necessary in that respect. Hi and low ground speed? Do you mean drive speed or engine speed? Or, if you mean that mid engine speed, I'm still trying to figure that one out.
drive speed. The engine speed hopefully I can look at Saturday.
Ok, drive speed. It's complex, yet simple. Hi speed drive is achieved by simply applying maximum current (voltage) to servo on drive pump via output from PQ controller. Creep (low speed drive) is achieved by reducing, or limiting, the current to the drive pump servo. The complex part of it is the output of the PQ controller. It's not an output you can measure with a voltmeter because the output is Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). This means, the PQ controller sends a voltage signal that is "fully on, then fully off, fully on, fully off". So, hi drive would be a signal that is "fully on" for a wide period of time and "fully off" is a short period of time, causing the pump servo to provide maximum output of the drive pump. Creep would be a short burst of "fully on" and a wide period of "fully off" to lessen the degree of pump output. Not easy to explain this operation.
I understand and that was plenty of explaination for me. It's good to have an idea of how these systems work so I'm not totalyignorant when troubleshooting in the future. Thanks.
Got a little time today so looked in botttom control box and the black/red wire is not connected to anything. The red wire for horn power was not connected so I put it on the circuit breaker but no horn so will have to look into that. The one thing I did notice is that the #1and #2 points on the terminal strip should have had a diode? in line but only the #2 had it so don't know if that would do anything or not. That is as far as I got. The platform control cover is going to be dificult to remove as the screws are not coming out. Those stupid tin nuts are striped and won't let the screw back out. The PO bent the crap out of the basket and the cover doesn't fit right anymore. Anyway I will have to get it off and look around under the hood. Also I confirmed that the boom arm level switch worked b/c it would slow down after I got so high in the air but the tower was able to go all the way up without slowing the speed down and I could not locate it. Do you know where it is located?
Well ksp, I've had a little time to noodle through the electrical diagrams and you've taken me to school. I haven't worked on the hyd control version of the 40HA. It seems they wire things a little differently depending on model version as well as engine used. I reckon it's good for an old fool to go to school now and again. :yup If I'm reading it correctly, your mid engine throttle is being activated by the dump valve circuit from the platform. When you step on the foot switch, it powers up the yellow wire circuit to provide power for electrical switches and controls at the platform. The last switch in the circuit is the steer switch. That's where the red wire of the 16/12 cable connects to yellow foot switch activated circuit. At the lower control box, the red wire connects to terminal #2 of the terminal strip. You should then have a wire that goes from terminal 2 to terminal 86 of the R15 dump valve relay. That powers up the relay to send voltage to the dump valve and enable the hyd operations. Back at terminal #2, voltage from the red dump valve wire is sent through the diode, then through a yellow wire to terminal #1 on R1 relay. I can't really remember what all functions the R1 relay controls as it's a multiple contact and terminal relay, but it appears to me that the yellow wire at terminal 1 is the Normally Closed contact with terminal 9 of the R1 relay. Power would go from 1 to 9, then through orn/grn wire connected to terminal 9, then orn/grn wire goes to terminal 86 of R13 idle relay, which powers up the coil on the R13 relay. When this happens, it connects terminal 30 to terminal 87 of the relay. This sends voltage from terminal 30 to the yellow wire that's connected to terminal 87 of R13 relay. That yellow wire goes to terminal 1 of the E201 Prescison Governor control box and powers up the mid engine speed control, which is that rev up rpm you get during boom operations. Hi engine speed for drive is achieved when R14 relay sends voltage to terminal 7 of the E201 governor controller. That's the way I'm seeing it on the diagrams.
Are you saying that my achine is operating correctly and as intended? That would be good news b/c I like how it works now.
That's the way it looks to me.
Thanks for your help. Got to find the tower lift limit switch and fix that so it kicks down to low speed when raised and a couple other small problems but I'm getting the bugs out. When I was messing with it yesterday I did notice that sometimes when moving the platform/ground switch that it would not actuate the precision gov. Usually when I switch it the gov will pull the throttle rod a bit at first. I wonder if I have a switch problem or a sticky relay that doesn't operat all the time. Thanks again.
If you look at section 3-2 in the parts book, it shows you where the cutout switches are. I'm thinking the tower boom cutout switch is underneath the cylinder that raises the lower tower boom. Could be any number of things causing your intermitent throttle problem, toggle switch being one of them. Just don't use cheap toggle switches as replacements. You can get a good price on original type toggles used on your machine from Hindley Electronics. You simply give them the JLG part number from the parts book and they'll send you the correct switch. http://www.hindleyelectronics.com/ Be sure and look closely at the 16/12 cable going down the boom, especially in the area around the basket pivot points. Look for any damage spots in the cable that would cause problems with wiring.
Do you know a good place to get the cable? I may need some down the line. I looked for that lower tower limit switch with the tower in the air and I could not see it. I wonder if it was taken off or never had one.
The cable. Well, that's a good question. It depends on how cheap (won't last long) one wants to do it, or if they want it to last. If you don't use a cable that is designed for constant flexing (no, typical SO or SJ cable is not), the bending of the wires in the conductors will cause the wires to break, and the insulators of the individual conductors are constantly rubbing against each other. Improper cable with have failure of the insulating jacket of the conductors from the friction of rubbing each other, electrical shorts and all sorts of goofy things happen. You can find the proper cable from aftermarket sources, but it still ain't cheap. In my experience, getting it from JLG is equal to and sometimes a better price than other sources. I'm thinking it's because JLG purchases thousands of feet of this cable for production of machines, so they probably purchase it at a good quantity discount and are able to keep replacement prices comparable to other suppliers. As for the tower boom speed cutout switch, I'm sure it originally had one. JLG doesn't allow any machine to go in hi speed drive with any boom raised, too dangerous.
Ok, I'll look into JLG for wire. I have been looking for the hyd oil filter,,,,,where is that located? Is it the schroder filter on the side of the pump when opening the side door? I thought it might be like a regular oil filter somewhere.
The filter located near the pumps is a filter for the charge pump of the drive pumps. The main hyd filter is located in the hyd tank. On top of the tank is a large round casting that has piping going to it. That's the return to tank pipe. There are 4 hex head bolts that hold a cap on that casting. Remove those bolts and remove the cap plate, hyd filter is in there. You can get the filter from aftermarket suppliers such as Wix, Hastings, etc.
Duh, I should have looked there! After looking at the filter housing, I saw that there is a guage on that housing which is broke. How important is that and what would it tell me? I also saw that there is a return suction filter in the tank but that is priced at $200 or better. Does the guage register vacum in the tank or something? Man, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the functioning of this unit to me. It's like having a mechanic on retainer!!!!
Page 2-90 of the parts book shows the hyd tank return filter assembly. The gauge on the return filter housing reads pressure. If the filter starts getting clogged from debris, the pressure in the return line would start to rise. The needle on the gauge indicates the pressure in the return line. The gauge is useful for monitoring condition of the filter. Are you saying the filter element for the hyd return in the tank is $200? That's outragious for an element. It should be a Wix #51434. It won't come with a new o-ring for the lid, but in most cases you can re-use your o-ring unless it's in really bad shape. There's a pressure filter at the drive pump as well, it's more of a strainer type filter, and I think the element for it is a little spendy. It should have a restriction indicator on it as well, a little different than the gauge on the return line. The purpose of that filter is to protect the variable piston pump for the drive circuit from any debris that would come from the charge pump, whether from normal component wear of the charge pump or component failure. Piston pumps are picky about debris floating through them.
No not that filter. There is another filter in the bottom of the tank acccording tot he parts diagram which is on the suction line. According to an online source they wanted around $200 for that filter. Good just what I needed was that Wix part #. I have an outlet for those, Thanks.
Oh, that filter. It's actually just a big screen filter to keep large pieces of debris from getting to the pumps and causing damage to them. You would have to drain the oil out of the tank to access that one. They typically don't need any kind of service unless you know your machine has some kind of past major component failure. In order for that screen strainer to get clogged, it would take a substantial amount of debris in the tank, which would mean you probably have a bigger problem than a clogged strainer screen. If, perchance, you just wanted to be thorough with your machine, and had the means to drain the tank and contain the oil in clean containers, it wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the tank and get a look in there. Any component failure particles from past or recent failures are going to be at the bottom of the tank. I've even seen pieces of cylinder seals, o-rings, and the vererable teflon tape stuck up against the strainer screen.
Oh I see, I thought it was a replaceable filter of a cheaper nature but I know what you are talking about. I'm going to check out that wix filter and see what comes with it and go from there. It appears as though the return filter cap has never been off unless it has been repainted. I had to replace about 30 gallons of hyd oil last year due to busted lines and a bad cylinder so just want to get a new filter in there.
That wix number was just the one. Got it replaced with no problem. Could a guy use any fluid guage in there? If so what would the range be for the guage movement? My guage is broke and I can't read it to tell what I need in there. I assume it reads a positive pressure and so what would be considered a normal range?
The gauge is meant to indicate when there is restiction by clogged filter, when the needle goes into the red range, but I don't know what psi pressure that is. It depends at what pressure JLG has set the by-pass valve in the filter lid. Don't know what that pressure is. Have you priced a new gauge from your JLG parts supplier? If nothing else, you should change your engine oil and filters every 150 to 200 hrs. If you change you hyd filter when your doing you engine filters, I don't think you're going to have an issue with clogged hyd filter so gauge woudn't matter that much.
I have gotten some parts from GCIron.com and they list that part for $42.18. Is there a better place to get JLG parts at a discount. The dealers around here have not been helpfull so I see no need for me to pay their inflated prices for parts. But you are right, it would be just as easy to replace that filter when doing engine oil changes. I don't use the lift a lot so I have been changing oil once a year whether it needs it or not ;-)
Well, don't know if there is such a thing as "discount" JLG parts, at least not for parts that come from JLG. I've been dealing with one company in Shippensburb PA, about 30 miles from JLG, for many years now. They started out as husband/wife owned company, husband used to work for JLG. A couple of years ago, they got bought out by Best Line Equipment, a large Bobcat dealer and rental company in State College PA. I still call them for parts because I have been calling Eric and Jeremy for parts for years now, and they are close to JLG, they know the system well. I don't know if their price would be any better but you could give them a call, 888-321-3217. If I need electrical parts, switches or controllers, I call Hindley in Ohio.
Thanks for all your help and advice, it's appreciated.
My JLG 40 H started doing the same thing, I can hit the platform control panel and it works . I have a loose wire or connection or possibly a break in the wire as it winds its way up to the platform. I'd like to run a wire from the ground control box to the platform control panel. Just need to know which wire I'm dealing with . This would eliminate the wiring up the boom if that's the problem spot. :beatsme
I'm not sure how your changing engine speed with foot switch, trying to figure that out myself. My best guess is engine governor control is somehow connected to the dump valve circuit, the red wire connected to steer switch. I don't mean to be milking this but I need to post 3 times before I can start my own thread . Anyways , its not that the footswitch is changing engine speed, I think KSP means that when you step on the footswitch , nothing happens to the engine speed other than the normal idle at say 1000 rpms. When the footswitch is depressed , the motor will rev up to say 1500 rpms. Our problem is that when the footswitch is depressed we don't get the rev up to be able to use the controls over the low idle speed. But when I hit the platform control box ,I can get mine to work like normal. ointhead
Welcome to the forum mark3885. :usa
Thanks , hoping to get to the bottom of this lift problem.
There ya go mark3885, you've got your third post in, you'll become a Junior Member after a short time and be able to start your own thread.
"But when I hit the platform control box ,I can get mine to work like normal." Mine has done the same thing. I think it is the toggle switch that changes operation from platform to ground control. I have not had time to replace it b/c it has been working ok lately. It does act up but if I work the switch a few times it will come out of it.
We have a 1995 40HA here at work with the Ford VSG411 engine. When you're in the basket and you step on the foot switch, the governor does some funky stuff and it sounds like the engine is revving up but it's gained very little once everything settles down again. Must be the load of the dump valves it's compensating for. I don't get any actual high throttle until the drive controller is almost full stroke in drive. Then the engine speeds up. There is no high engine in any other function. Just the action of the governor trying to maintain the low setting. :beatsme
Interesting, my 40ha is a 1992 model or so. I'm guessing my governor was set to speed up when depressing the foot switch by someone. I actually like the way it works. Low idle when foot off switch but speeds up when using hydraulics. Saves gas and noise! If I really want speed I can flip the high engine switch. I'm not changing it.
Is there a chance any people involved in this post still visit this website. I'm having same issues with a snorkel but to add to the problem our lift functions with out using the peda . Which begs down and kills motor when using and boom controls.