Has anyone found a viable solution to keeping final drive input shaft seals from leaking on JLG G10/G12 telehandlers? We have had a ton of issues with these seals. What we've tried so far: -Replacing the stub shafts. Gets expensive if you have to do them 5+ times over the 7000 hour lifespan we keep the equipment. -Polishing out shallow grooves with emery cloth. Time consuming. -Speedy sleeves. Hit and miss. Sleeves are only slightly wider than the seals. Placement needs to be exact. Find that the sleeve tends to be cut easily by the seal. In some cases if the tech just installed the sleeve dry or with silicone rather than retaining compound, the sleeve comes apart and obliterates the seal. -Sent stub shafts out for machining and chroming. -Updated seals. If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve the longevity of these seals that'd be great.
Are you getting any were with this
No, not yet. Seems to just be a very poor design.
can you mildly heat treat the stubs to harden the surface?
Unfortunately it seems upper management at the shop I'm currently at likes to talk about trying to find a solution, yet doesn't want to hear any suggestions. Most of the more expensive options we tried at a previous shop.
well what does jlg have to say about this? replacing these seals every 1000 hours or so sounds ridiculous.
Haven't done hub seals on a bigger Jlg in a while. Some have a brass oilite type bushing that shaft rides on, and when it's worn, the shaft is no longer tight and can wobble. Also could your hubs be overfilled? Some guys underfill them some as they are not vented, so there will always be some pressure in there. Less oil = more space.
They just cough up for warranty claim usually. They did update the seals though a year or 2 ago which helped a bit. I've often wondered about that bushing but that doesn't explain why we'd see them fail at as low as 2 or 300 hours sometimes. I do make a habit of setting the oil level about 3/8"-1/2" low just so it doesn't make a huge mess.