I moved into a tight jobsite, and the site and utility contractor was digging in the sanitary sewer today. No problem we can work it out. I bring the machine over and nose in as far as I can, unload, then back out empty and get rid of the trailer back to the yard, and get a load of bedding. I get back and pull the excavator as far as I can without cutting down string lines, and back the dump truck right up to my counterweight. Then I get some help stomping down the string lines and move the excavator in. Before I can get back to the truck it got whacked by the loader operator. He got by it once but the second trip he was watching the wrong side. The hood is toast and the bumper is taco'ed. He calls his boss and fills out an incident report. He says they will get the parts together and get back with me.
Damn. Will they be able to find a new hood? Getting parts for our L9000 is a treasure hunt. Good luck.
I don't know and they have a big operation with their own shop guy hunting it down now, supposedly. You know the saying, when all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail? When you work with plumbers..............
. LOL - I've done much worse cobbling **** back together.
I couldn't tell ya how many times I cobbled a snowmobile together with duct tape and zip ties just to get back to a road. Leave sled at road, ride 2 up back to truck, go retrieve sled. Screws and plumbers tape might have gotten me all the way back to the truck.
the corner was threatening to just fall off and take the headlight with it. I figured I can run for a while if I can keep it together. A fiberglass repair on it won't hold up or look decent. I hope they find a good clip for the old girl.
This one looks pretty good. https://truckpartsinventory.com/parts/details/82798725
thanks there are several there to choose from. That bump on my hood must be for the coolant tank.
I found new parts, a new aftermarket hood, grille, and bumper. I took those prices to a body shop and got an estimate, and today they cut us a $10,150 check. I will order up the parts and get them coming.
Ouch, that too bad. I've never seen that little scoop on a l9000, are you going to have to save yours off the old hood? Our old international the headlight bucket is all clapped out on, its kind of duct tape/ ziptied/ hope and a prayer held in there. Its a good thing we don't drive much at night, because the headlight bounces up and down like a dashboard hula girl - its a little distracting.
yes it is a bolt on part for the air inlet on the Cat 3406. the turbine stock inlet doohickey does nothing. You have not seen that bump because not many of these trucks were sold with Cat power. It was purchased before my time, but I am glad it has Cat rather than the alternatives. Check out the brand new aftermarket hood I am ordering. I wonder if I even need to paint that gelcoat? Maybe just wax it and enjoy?
Where did you order that hood? Might need it one day. I am jealous you have a 3406 in your L9000, I have an L10 Cummins...
That repair looks great, almost can't tell, just needs a little touch up paint! A fiberglass repair can hold up, but its a lot of work to do, feathering way back, woven roven for the first layer bonded well to existing, feather in more fabric and build it up slowly before epoxy, primer, paint. Have done some boat repairs and excavator cover repairs and spent way more hours than would ever be profitable but never a crack, chip or failure. Football sized hole in a canoe was tough because the sides have to flex a little. Need a stainless wrecker bumper.
4 state trucks https://www.4statetrucks.com/hoods-...NvcYcpp4zYGOV3ZX2D9XPuNM2wzjuIzIaAkc-EALw_wcB I found one made in Mexico for much less. I have not called on that one yet, as the Jones Performance hood looks better on paper.
I've ordered from them before.
I imagine there are a lot of shifts you make with that L10 that I do not make with the Cat It is amazing how it comes out of the hole at 1200 RPM. I think " maybe I better shift" and I turn the corner and up we go.
Do you think a straight 18" bumper would look stupid? Current bumper is a tapered end 16" with no fog holes. I'm thinking in this case less is more. Here is the stock look with the taper. I think the big bumper might be dorky.
agreed. Definitely the smaller the less to get caught on
Thanks peej
stainless an option?
The tapered bumper IMO. Some fog lights would be a nice addition. Well I don't have to shift as the L10 has an Allison 4sp behind it. Bought the truck as a site truck that anyone on the crew can drive. Paid for itself many times over - however a high speed dump truck it is not.
I was mistaken, the truck has a 12" taper bumper, apparently crafted from unobtanium as it is a couple hundred higher if I can find it at all. I did not see a stainless option anywhere. Ford got back to me with a price for the right hinge that was well north of $800! I have a used one coming for 175+ shipping. Ford may win the deal on the hood though, if they do not ding me for the freight. I'll know in the morning and get the rest of the pieces coming. I think I can re-rivet the two loose tubes on the bottom corner of the grille and re use that piece, and get a new grille surround. So far I have chopped three hundred off the Jones hood with another vendor, fleettruckparts.com There is another unknown make of hood that may drop another 600 or so. I am hesitant because it may be total junk and not worth the misery.
forget those flimflammy tin bumpers. Get you a 3/8" steel or oilfield pipe bumper and next time the loader flips over instead of ruining your hood. If you have to have chrome, at least get the tapered.
Waiting on getting some pedigree on the cheaper hood. I took the truck to the local shop to get an axle seal looked it, it puked a random cup of oil out a couple of weeks ago. Strange deal since it was parked on a slope and it puked out the high side wheel that one time, and never again. I don't like it and don't have the heavy jacks and tools to take off wheels, so off to the shop.
I had to do a tire repair on a 11.00 20, thanksgiving weekend at the firehouse. I had a replacement tube and enough smarts not to get killed. I jacked up the duals, removed the spider clamps most of the way, slid the shop creeper under the tires and lowered the axle down until the tires shifted a bit, then pulled the clamps and wheeled both tires away from the truck.
I ran into a wall on getting a 12" bumper for this truck anywhere. I think I will make one from a piece of 12" aluminum channel. The material I am looking at is 0.300 thick, and about 3" deep. I can transfer the 6 bolt holes over, and use a holesaw to drill the ends of the toe holes and finish it with a saw. I can get a 16" bumper for 480 plus several hundred shipping, or I can get a piece of 12" 2024 channel for 480 locally.
Be careful measuring & transferring the bolt holes from the old bumper. The channel will have a different profile than the steel bumper. You may have to shift the bolt holes to clear the channel legs. That said, I like the idea of aluminum channel. no rusting, no painting.
Steel. Steel. You need the steel. Steel. Big old chunk of 3/8" C channel with a couple holes in it. This ain't no beauty contest.... https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24982421
I have an old L900 with a cummins. It ain't much, but I love it. That little bump would have just about totaled it (money wise, my truck has little in common with yours lol). Good luck getting it fixed back up.
boss asked me a while ago if the truck was an OK truck, like he was thinking of replacing it. 3406B cat, 205,000 original miles. I told him it was worth working on and keeping.
Nice truck. I have a soft spot for the old L8000/L9000 Fords. What is your tare weight? I had a single axle International with a double frame. After I chopped the belly plow off, it still weighed 17,300 lbs. The box could hold 12 ton of sand, but I couldn't even scale 8 legally (33k max GVW, Michigan). Full length double frame and oversized box (for spreading salt). My father in law has a mid-80s F-850 with a 429 and a 5+2. That truck weighs under 14,000 empty, no issues scaling 8 ton, but it's a gutless wonder to drive.
Mine is worse. It weighs just over 18K. It's a shame, it can haul a lot more.
with the added fuel tank and tool tank, this truck scales right around 24K and I can haul 12 tons or just a smidge under. With the short boards and 8 yard box, that is a stretch for freeboard.
Wow, how is that truck over 18,000 pounds? My international was around 19,500# when I bought it, but I chopped the belly plow off and gutted excess hydraulic plumbing related to the plow system to get down to 17,300. I only had a DT466 though, which isn't that heavy. That truck always had 9200# on the front axle, and still scaled under 12,000# when loaded heavy coming out of a pit. The rears got grossly overloaded if the loader operator decided fill every corner.
I cut my teeth on Louisville trucks This is a 76 or a 77 with a 290 Cummins. Of course I was just pretending here, but I wasn't much older and I was shunting trailers with a 73 gas job with a 5 speed ruxel. I learned to drive truck before I got a car license.
Mine is a little heavier .... I am about 28,000 ...
What do you have for power in that one? I see a lot of the old Fords with that hood style with 3208 Cats. My grandpa has a similar tri-axle with the 7.8L Ford. Not a powerhouse, but it gets the job done. We had an old milk hauler converted to forage truck that had a 6v92 in it. Same hood style.
Mine has the 3406b @ 425hp. I love it. I had another one with a L10, what a difference! My truck is actually a '92, but it seems to have the hood with the round headlights, which I think is more late 80's. I haven't been quite able to figure out the hoods and years, most of the early 90's trucks had square headlights. My year is according to the VIN.
I got a little package from the shippers yesterday. Giggity!
A tiny house ? Beware the first rain ☔
No doubt! That's an understatement since my L9000 has a L10..
Congrats! Sky are you installing it or having a shop do it?
I will give it a go. The sticky bits will be the insulation and retaining springs under the hood. Those look to be a pain. One is already loose. This new hood looks nice. Lots of pre-drilled holes and reinforcements.
@Truck Shop , is there any magic to moving that insulation over from the old hood to the new? Do I need it, is there a better product now than the 1990's tech of the mattress spring and batt that it has now? If a turbo and manifold blanket will cure the problems is that a better idea?
Full of dirt will never glue it, most got ripped out and never put back.
OK I won't sweat it if you don't see it bubbling the glass or paint. I don't run it too hard nor do I shut it down hot, so that helps I think.
I got the hood off with a forklift. Many of the bolts are breaking so I will have to make a parts run. @Truck Shop , should I bother with the cold air for the Cat engine? It is going to be a bit of a PITA to get done. I thought it was all screwed and riveted on, but some of it looks bonded too.
This only worked because this is a Cat branded ratchet strap I wiggled the bolts out of those single bolt mounts and got away. None of the other bolts would move. After I snapped off a few I gave up and took the hood to the hot wrench. Once I pulled off the grille, it lost a whole lot of integrity
I installed the hood right out of the box, I cut away the side I needed and lifted up the pallet and box, and got it bolted up. I had a helper in the forklift seat. I pulled one of the rubber wedge blocks till I got it close, then put it back on. The donaldson filter housing is a bit tight to the hood, and was with the old hood. There is not too much I can do about that. i noticed all the used hoods I see have the front lower section cut away, as does the one I took off. I wonder if there is a good reason? I got it to fit with the hood intact. Just a little grinding on the nose of one frame rail got it clear. I was impressed with the Jones Performance hood. It had all the clips and they addressed most everything. One nice detail was new headlight adjuster screws, as mine were trashed. I need to track down some new headlight rings as well as the bumper. It all has to come off to go in the paint booth, but I have a job to do tomorrow. As much of a pain as this was, they did me a favor when they paid for the new hood. The old one had a lot of rust in the lower sheetmetal sections. That is the old grille but a new surplus chrome steel grille surround. The old one was brushed aluminum stock. The grille is OK from 20 feet.
I just noticed the windshield wipers are mounted on top of the cab. Don't think I ever saw that before on these trucks. Was it for some special application?
It was a state or county plow truck so maybe that's what it's about.
I have had two old Ford snowplow trucks. The hood cutaway was there so the hood could be opened most of the way with the front plow mount on. Could only raise them a few inches with the hood complete. If you are not putting a plow on you are probably fine running a full hood.
After I got the boom off the 120, the paint shop called, I picked up the freshly painted hood and got it hung back on the truck.