Turn the key over to crank and the solenoid by the battery’s click, engine does not turn over. The fuse in the cab behind the seat is good and lights up when I turn the key to start. Testing the solenoid by the battery that is clicking using a test light, it has 4 wires, two that engage the solenoid and two that it bridges the connection when activated. The two that engage it are working fine. The other two wires that the solenoid bridges don’t have any positive fire. I feel like one of them should be positive. Beside this solenoid is an inline fuse, it is good and has power to it. Testing the small wire on the starter, when I turn the key to start and get no positive Fire. I think this wire comes from that solenoid by the batteries which makes sense if I have no fire at that solenoid. I Jumped the small wire on the starter with the big wire on the starter (which is showing positive) and it cranked right up and runs fine. Checked the hydraulic engagement lever it is working, with it down I get no click with it up I get the click. Back to the solenoid by the batteries I feel like one of the wires should be positive. Is there another inline fuse, relay or safety switch I should check? Any advice is greatly appreciated. I can still use the machine but don’t want to have to crank it with a screw driver.
F45 30A fuse is good? There are 2 relays in the circuit for the white starter wire. When you jump it to start it, does it shut off OK? Does the monitor stay lit when it is shut off? Check your messages.
Is there another fuse panel other than the one behind the seat? I don’t see one in the engine bay. One behind the seat is missing the cover but there are only 40 fuses there, I checked them all they are good. When I jump started it at the starter, yes it shuts off ok. The monitor turns off like it’s should when switched off.
Here is the fuse arrangement so you have it. If all the fuses are good, then you will have to use the schematics I sent you to troubleshoot and isolate where the issue lies. I would start at the starter solenoid and work backwards to see where the voltage is lost. But first, under the cooling package/front of engine is a connector. It is accessed by removing the panel or panels under the radiator, under the machine. The connector is mounted to the main frame under there. Disconnect it and check for water intrusion and corrosion. If there is water in there and/or corrosion, that would most likely be your culprit. Usually this issue results in the inability to shut the engine down and the monitor stays alive.
From what you describe, I believe that you will find the fault in the circuit that runs from the "start" position on the ignition switch to the starter solenoid switch. The circuit is interrupted somewhere; the failure could be in the ignition switch, the terminal ends of the wire at the ignition switch or starter solenoid, the wire itself (a break inside the insulation), or corrosion at couplers in the wiring harness. You are bypassing the circuit when you use a screwdriver on the starter to start the engine.
I have a 250G doing the same thing did you ever figure out were your loss of power was