Hey all, I’m writing you from Argentina. We have had this excavator on a halt for months now waiting for the spare part. It arrived few days ago but it wasn’t the correct one, this part came from the official John Deere dealership. These guys are slow and more often than not bring the incorrect parts when we order them, so, in an attempt to get it working ASAP, I’m looking for the solenoid and the solid tube kinda thing that is actuated by the solenoid itself, this “tube” can be seen in the picture sticking out. The solenoid itself was lost by the guys at the dealership (top quality service) so it’s impossible to track this piece now, at least for me All I can provide is a bunch of pictures, the box hasn’t got any numbers or serial codes so only an expert can help now. As you can see the box is behind the cockpit, below the air filter So any help in tracking this part is very much appreciated. Thanks
AT322678 solenoid and spool???????????? complete valve AT322524??????????????
Yup and to break it down if you only need the coil and nut: Solenoid Valve Coil Part Number AT423342 DescriptionCOIL, 24V SOLENOID 1500 WATT DIODE Nut Part Number T225294 Bit of a mess because some parts supersede.
Wow you guys are monsters, the local mechanics and parts stores couldn’t figure out what this part number was, they had no clue where to search from either...truly impressive Thanks a lot!
Hey all again, it seems we have a problem again with this fan. Is there a way to make it work directly ie bypass the opening and closing of the valve so the fan is permanently working? At least to make it finish the job it has to do. Thanks.
Only in America my fine friend!
Post your machine serial number ..............and I'll give the Deere God a yell. Hey MG!!!!!!!!!..............Your needed!
Here you go hehe
What is the fan doing specifically? If you had repaired your fan and it was working normally, then try unplugging the solenoid to see if the fan goes to full speed. Otherwise see below. Bypassing the fan valve should get you to full fan speed. Another question, what's the ambient air temperature you are running at?
The fan stops when the machine moves, it doesn’t stop when it’s static but it also doesn’t speed up so the engine overheats if working with a generous throttle setting, ambient temp is around 5-15 degrees Celsius, during these winter months. Hotter months begin with September-October
Unplug the solenoid on the valve first. If the fan does not speed up then try bypassing like I mentioned. Post whether the fan increases to full speed or not.
Yes it worked. We will leave it to finish the job and then disassemble the complete valve box thingy.
If unplugging = fan speed increase, the problem likely isn't in that solenoid valve, but rather the computer, or, more precisely, in a sensor that the computer uses to determine when to increase the fan speed.
Apologies for not starting a new post but this issue is exactly what I'm going through currently on my JD 200DLC Excavator with a standard (non reversing cooling fan). The fan isn't spinning at all (even at sufficient temp). All signs point to the proportioning valve/solenoid as being the problem. No flow is getting to the hydraulic fan motor. The solenoid coil has ~32 ohms of resistance (assuming it's ok) but the wires from the ECU have zero volts. Any idea if these solenoids are "fail on", meaning zero volts and the fan runs? Or is a voltage required to get the proportional valve to send fluid to the fan motor? I'm thinking with zero volts that it's either the ECU not sending voltage (if volts are needed to actuate valve) or the proportioning valve body may need repair (if zero volts means max flow you the fan motor). Thank you for any info
Welcome to HEF Doug ! Machine serial number please. The fan should never stop, even if commanded to minimum displacement. "0" volts would put the fan at full speed. It takes voltage (more accurately, Pulse Width Modulation) to slow the fan down. The spec for the solenoid valve resistance is 28 - 38 ohms. With that being said, I do not think the controller ever drops to zero volts. There is always a small amount of voltage. We'll deal with the electrical from the controller later. First, if unplugging the solenoid, or one of the temperature sensors does not kick the fan into full speed, or in your case, does not start the fan turning, then you have a mechanical problem. Either the fan control valve is dumping all the fluid or you have a fan pump/motor issue. Can you bypass the fan valve like mentioned above?
Thank you so much for the info. Serial#: 1FF200DXJBD512836 Engine#: SE6068L126128 As part of the diagnosis JD tech suggested I remove the line back at the hydraulic tank to look for fluid flow if the fan motor was shot (flow was barely a drip if at all). I physically removed the solenoid wire and fan didn't spin. I did drain and clean the hydraulic tank prior to the fan stopping (thought it was odd coincidence). I did disconnect both supply lines for main pump and fan pump to ensure that those 90 degree stubs off of the tank bottom were clean. Reconnected all with great care and I bled air from the two plugs on top of the hyd pump as per manual. Techs said that there wasn't a bleed procedure for the fan pump circuit. Really appreciate any thoughts.
Sounds like you created an air lock on the suction side of your fan pump by removing and cleaning that stub in the main suction line. You will need to prime the fan pump (engine mounted and driven off the timing cover).........providing this is the problem of course
Thank you. Yes seems very coincidental. I will have to check that. Btw when the engine is off should the cooling fan spin easily? It's on a hydraulic motor and I assumed that it would be tight but I have no idea. I appreciate the help thanks
You should be able to turn it by hand with very little effort.
Ok thank you. I had heard that the shafts break inside sometimes and thought maybe the low resistance to spin was a symptom of that.
If it does not have any resistance, then I would suspect something's amiss inside the motor.
The motor turned out to be fine. Just fixed the problem. The fan pump on the engine needed to be bled. I started the engine and cracked the sump line at the fan pump and had to wait for fluid to rise... But no fluid. The connection at the pump is relatively high compared to the level of the oil in the tank. I tipped the excavator as if to clean a track and then went back to the pump as it was now lower than the oil level in the hydraulic tank. Bled the air and the fan came right on. I did also confirm that removing the proportioning solenoid wires does run the fan at Max. I'm honestly shocked because there's zero reference to bleeding the fan pump in any of the manuals as well as from the techs at JD. The only bleed locations discussed are on top of the main hydraulic pump. Always bleed the fan pump when fluid guess below the sump pickup tube! Thank you for all the help from the group here. Really appreciate your time.
This was the critical suggestion that fixed it! Thank you
Glad to hear you are back up and running. Thanks for sharing the results.