So as the story goes I was trying to level a 25' X 45' area for a garage using a Yanmar tractor with box blade and bucket. Well it was taking along time and there was a couple of hard spots I couldn't get out and my girl friend found a JD 310 for cheap, the guy said it was digging slower and slower at the end but ran like a top. Well we got it running and got it the 4 blocks home in reverse after tying the bucket and back hoe in up positions, no power steering no hydraulics working. I have drained 13 gals of oil and water and have 2 new filters and was going to put in 10 gals hydraulic oil and found out it looks like it holds 20. Should I blow all the lines out before putting new oil in and are there any suggestions on the next step???? Thanks in advance!!!
dr-I assume you have an older plain 310. I have a 310B. It seems to me someone said removal of every line would be necessary to flush or blow out. Maybe someone will confirm this. Draining hyd. oil and change filters, run some and repeat has worked for me. Are you aware of the filter screen in the transmission? On mine it is behind the short hose going into the rh side of the transmission.
I will look for the screen tomorrow, thanks!!!
Here's a diagram of it's location. I removed the two bolts holding the filter base to a bracket and made a wedge to hold the whole thing out of the way, then removed the screen. The first time this was necessary cause it was a little wedged in by debris, after that I could remove the screen by holding it back by hand but it's tight. You should also use a magnet to clean out the bottom of the transmission and save any debris. The fitting that attaches the hose also holds the screen in and I think it takes a 1-3/4" wrench. Good luck
Here is a couple of the links for the hydraulic flush procedure.
Well Scout I got to the screen, but can only get it to wiggle and can not feel or see any thing to get a hold of to pull it out, so am taking a break for my finger and will go wiggle some more in a while. Tinkerer, I tried the links both clicking on and copying and pasting and cannot get them to work. Do they mention to use special fluid or just the regular hyd oil. Thanks guys!!!
AH HA got the screen started out but the filter housing is in the way still so I am disconnecting 1 of the lines to help move it out of the way, and I will have to replace the 3" hose between the filt housing and the tranny as iI boogered it up removing it!!! Getting closer!!!
For some reason those links don't work for me either. But these links worked just fine for the same webpages. Seems real strange. Especially when that archive page comes up.
DR- Don't know if you got the hose off yet, but they looked to be difficult to remove for me. You should be able to pry the housing a little and put a wedge made out of a treated 2x4 to hold the filter housing out JUST enough to remove the screen. One thing I found was that some metal debris made it difficult to fully install the cleaned screen, so it took a long time with the magnet to get the recess on the other side cleaned out. Removing the fitting from the other side of the trans also help the cleaning process.
DR here is another link in regards to fushing a hydraulic system.
The screen is out!!! YEAH!! No metal just "sludge" and possible gasket material. poured some diesel in to flush any more debris, and before I finished before night put drain plug in and plugged where 3" hose goes and put in about 2 gal of diesel. Will drain diesel today pickup oil and flush diesel with hyd oil then assemble all w/ new filters and put in 20 gal of hyd oil and see what happens. Hopefully i CAN FIND the 3" X 3/4" hose locally so I can get started today. I am going to pull the plug opposite the screen, of course the battery housing over laps the plug by 1/8" so battery holder removed will get ground down before reinstalling and I will get a magnet in there to see if any metal is laying around in there!!! Thanks so much guys, appreciate all the info!!!! I will keep u posted as things progress.
The screen is out!!! YEAH!! No metal just "sludge" and possible gasket material. poured some diesel in to flush any more debris, and before I finished before night put drain plug in and plugged where 3" hose goes and put in about 2 gal of diesel. Will drain diesel today pickup oil and flush diesel with hyd oil then assemble all w/ new filters and put in 20 gal of hyd oil and see what happens. Hopefully i CAN FIND the 3" X 3/4" hose locally so I can get started today. I am going to pull the plug opposite the screen, of course the battery housing over laps the plug by 1/8" so battery holder removed will get ground down before reinstalling and I will get a magnet in there to see if any metal is laying around in there!!! Thanks so much guys, appreciate all the info!!!! I will keep u posted as things progress.
I have ordered a manual and will receive it in a few days but if any one knows what is the shift pattern for this machine??? The online specs say 8 forward & 4 reverse but there is no marking on the floor covers as to what position the 2 levers should be in to achieve those results. Thanks!!!
DR- I found that my 310b is similar but slightly different than your 310. You mentioned that the short hose was 3/4" and the battery box was slightly in the way of the fitting on the opposite side of trans. screen and these are at least some of the differences. It looks like the filter base is a little different too, so I don't know if my advice to leave the hoses connected and use a wedge will work on yours. If you haven't checked it out already, try jdparts.com for parts diagrams. It's a great help for free. Anyway, here's the trans. pattern:
Thanks so much!! When I went to replace the hose it actually turned out to be 1" X 3.5" and the local carquest had it in stock with the same metal braid and all so now just to get it installed. Yhanks again!!!
New filters, New Hyd Fluid, Hydraulics for Backhoe, Front Loader, Outrigggers all work good and seem strong for digging. After cycling everything drove it to a pile of dirt and got a scoop of dirt, backed up put it in forward and it tried but would not move forward. Dumped the dirt, used the back hoe to turn it around and did some digging all worked well. Backed it up to the parking space, and have been checking clutch linkage and fwd & back linkage, made some adjustments on clutch linkage, fwd/back linkage seems tight and proper. So am I looking at forward clutch pack seals now??? The shift pattern seems to be the same as above and I have 8 reverse gears it seems but forward now barely seems to get it out of the parking space. ( A little peeved in BHC)
Anybody have thots????? Thanks
I have a 310 like yours and reverse should only work in the low range ( 4 speeds). There is some kind of 'lock out' mechanism to keep it from going into reverse when in the high range. I'm wondering if there is some kind of linkage adjustment issue.
Rev might only have 4 speeds it was hard to tell at idle but I do know I was able to have it in lo or high when I was doing it. This I am not too concerned with!!! I am looking at all the linkages both for the clutch and the fwd/rev shifter. My main problem is no forward torque, I could barely get it out of the parking spot in any forward gear. I am also checking the manual which I received yesterday to check all linkage adjustments. Thanks
Forward Link does not look like the one I found in the manual, actually haven't been able to figure out what this one does!!
If you are talking about the rod that has an adjustable clevis on the right end and the other end fits into a slotted arm held in with a washer and cotter pin, it can be found in the tech manual (TM1036) section 50, page 10-5, clutch assembly, fig. 3, item 14. It's called the clutch fork shaft rod.
OK Got it chroniekon. So the slot is used ro disengage the clutch when clutch lever is fully depressed, and when partially depressed the clutch equalizes the pressure between fwd and reverse if I read it right. Right???? So if all is looking good then I probably am looking at replacing the fwd clutch pak at sometime in the future. Sound close??? Thanks!!
On the right half of page 10-6 is the adjustment procedure for that shaft. I'd check that out, and then the last paragraph there talks about more adjustments in group 20 of the manual. On pages 20-7 and 8 there are some more checks and adjustments described that might be related to your problem.
I was just looking at the picture you posted again and noticed something looked to be missing. There is a small lever about 3 inches long on the right side near the shaft that goes cross ways from the left side to the right that should have something in that empty hole. I went out and crawled under mine and that should have a rod connected to it that connects it to the forward and reverse lever on your steering column!
If you flip that lever up I bet you'll have forward movement and no reverse
I'm Sorry!!! I currently have that rod off to free up the adjuster on it so i can make any adjustments in the future!!! Everything is frozen so even before I think about the adjustment I remove it and free up the adjuster then put it back in the same spot and reinstall it!! Sorry again for the confusion.. I will have to get a gage and some fittings so it may be a while before I get the reverser pressure checked out. Thanks again
Also, I have forward just with no ummph behind it, it tries but just can't hardly get movement!!!
Okay, sounds like you're on the right track. Wow, I thought that missing rod was going to be the easy fix!