Was working this morning and it felt like I just lost all power ( throttle ) , runs and idles just fine but step on the throttle and it just creeps along , gutless . Any ideas ?
Check the simple things first … fuel filter, fuel pump etc Then on to the ...
Thanks for your input , planning on doing that very thing first but was a lil concerned when it happened that it could be deeper. Will reply back and pick your brain if that doesnt fix the problem. Once again Thank you
Fuel filters 1st.. 2nd..make sure the throttle is going all the way to the screws at full throttle.. Lastly, loosen the 2 screws on the side of the injection pump, enough to let it leak fuel & see if it revs up while leaking.. If it does, get back to us..
Absolutely follow Pumpguy's suggestions. Leaking fuel is an important step. Like in a constant drip. Had the same issue with my 310C. Pumpguy's hints were right on the money for my machine.
Copy, will do. Thanks
I used the hoe for the rest of the day yesterday ( digging only , didnt have to move anywhere ) and noticed that towards the later hours of operating time that it was slowly struggling even on picking up a few scoops of earth, sometimes even died . Today I went ahead and replaced the 3370 fuel filter and started the machine back up and tried to throttle a lil but still no luck. Machine ran for about 10 minutes then died ( slowly idling down and died ). Glass filter is full of fuel making me think the fuel pump is ok ( my guess ) , but do you think this is still an option to replace. And If I get it to start again the 2 screws your talking about on the injector pump are they the timing cover screws or something else ? Everything else are bolt heads which makes me think of the bolts for the interior spring assembly or inside that throttle body . Any help would be appreciated . Thanks
Yes.. the side timing cover on the injection pump.. OR remove the return fitting on top of the inj. pump.. the line & ALL the fittings, all the way down to the alumin. cover.. Theres should be just a hole in the cover, if you removed everything correctly.. NOW start it & run it & see if it'll rev up.. What I'm trying to prove is, the pressure is building up INSIDE the inj. pump.. IF you cant get fuel OUT.. you cant get fuel IN.. Relieving the pressure thru the side cover is 1 way.{leaking} & removing the fittings AT the return circuit is another.. letting it flow free w/ no restriction. Let us know.
Copy will do , Thanks
Started it up this morning , idling around 7 and throttled up to 14 was as high as it would go . Loosened up return line and fuel was coming out at a decent flow. Worked throttle linkage at the pump and still best case was about 14-15 rpm. Ran and let it warm up for about 10 minutes and just like yesterday it slowly would throttle down , down , down . Each attempt of loosening the return line and attempting to see if it would throttle up on the pump would flow fuel but not change the increase of rpm by much. Last rpm was at 10-11 max at the pump before I threw my hands in the air again . It seems that after running a while it will slowly idle down to a point where any load will cause it to die. I hope this info might help a lil in your attempt to help me . Thanks again , looking forward to your input.
Did you remove all the fittings on that return line, or just loosen the line? There's a big difference to thepumpguy. If you removed ALL the fittings and it still idled down, then tee into the supply line and add a pressure/vacuum gauge so you can see what the fuel pressure does. OR, clean the fuel system from the tank to the inlet to the injection pump, and check that the transfer pump is working, it should squirt when you pump the priming lever and you should feel the difference when it's pumping vs blocked vs sucking a vacuum.
Jeepers... I see why some of the old timers here have gotten frustrated with giving advice. It's like the doctor telling the heart attack patient holding a cigar and whiskey not to smoke or drink Farmtoy: The fuel injection pump has to have an unimpeded flow OUT of the housing. Loosening the return line doesn't guarantee that. The fuel could be coming from the injectors, the tank or the pump housing.
Its like getting kicked in the nuts every time I log in here.. Loosening THE LINE isn't gonna prove anything.. TAKE EVERYTHING OFF down to the cover!!! OR loosen the friggin side cover/timing window till it leaks!!!!
Pumpguy … Take it easy ... You're gonna bust a vein !! We want you around. But if you do want a kick in the nuts … TBN is always good for that.
LOL Those guys over there are "something else".. It MUST BE something to do w/ "small tractors".. {Big tractor envy} Kinda like "sailboat people"??
Farmtoys … If you're still following this... Pumpguy is the expert on injection pumps. I had the same issue as you, with my Deere 310C. His advice was right on.
Ya im still here , rained out yesterday so nothing got done , damn thing in the middle of my pasture . Anyhow guys sorry about my confusion on what I did . By loosening that line I had fuel going everywhere so I assumed ( my bad ) that fuel was moving properly. After taking that fitting completely off and also determining that there is a small round glass ball inside the one connector I started the hoe and it throttled up strong , like it should . Most definitely had the RPM's back. I did not let it run long , just checked that , put it back together and came to the laptop to talk. Now Pumpguy to put it out there I did not remove the timing cover since your reply said "OR' so im not breaking your balls or kicking you in the nuts !! lol . Anyhow thanks guys and look forward to your input.
Working the farm , will check back later with you two
Farmtoys …Unimpeded flow out the IP housing and the engine runs strong again. That's the tell of what's wrong with your machine. I'll let pumpguy guide you from here. I strongly suggest you Private message him and consider his services. Click on his name and start a "conversation"
OK Kool.. now we're getting somewhere.. all we were trying to do was determine if it was building pressure in the housing.. & now we know.. "it is".. & when you removed the restriction,{glassball} it reved up.. Ya gotta a couple of choices.. 1> clean out the glass ball fitting{return connector} using air outta an air compressor & a pick/scribe.. Blow & poke till its clean.. 2> buy a new fitting> p#>15830 & hope it doesn't get clogged again. 3> smash the glass ball outta the fitting & let all the garbage that's in the pump go back to the fuel tank. I don't like telling people to do that because they THINK they FIXED the pump.. Take the fitting OFF the pump BEFORE you smash the ball out.. 4> take off the pump & send it to me for a rebuild.. Depending on WHAT the restriction/garbage IS.. it could be rust or dirt.. OR it could be small plastic pieces from a part called the "flex ring".. IF you take off the side cover/timing window.. the plastic pieces gather in the corners of the pump window. If your gonna do THAT> have a big wad of paper towels under the window to catch anything that comes out. You could take off the top cover to inspect the insides too.. The "flex ring bits" will gather in the corners of the pump housing.. WE KNOW what the problem is.. restriction.. we just gotta figure out WHERE its coming from.. A BIG WARNING MUST accompany the "smashing of the return connector".. IF it is indeed the flex ring, your taking away the only "safety devise" the machine has.. the glass ball. So what will happen is, eventually the engine speed/rpms will become uncontrollable.. & you wont be able to shut it down.. a run-away engine.. & we all know what happens then.. the insides become the outsides.. Let us know when u get back to it & what you find.. TPG
Farmtoys … TPG is being bashful. While the debris "Could be" dirt or rust... consider the very fine fuel filtering set up Deere designed. Ask yourself how could dirt get through it, to get into the pump. Very likely, the debris is coming from the pump itself. So something in the pump is coming apart. This particular pump design has a flexible ring that holds the governor weights. It's well known for the flex ring to break down and shed pieces. In my case the only decision was to go back to the flex ring or a more expensive part that eliminated the break down and the flex ring. I chose to stay with the flex ring since it took 30 years to fail. I figure it'll be someone else's problem in another 30 years.
The truth has a way of presenting itself.. lol.. He'd of found it..
Thanks to reading about everybody's problems with their 310C fuel in crankcase problem, I've discovered that the shaft seals had one of them rolled over. Thank you for your help guys
Farmtoys, I have 2 older Deere backhoes a 410 and a 310.. I’ve had the same issues as you with both machines, the one was what thepumpguy is trying to diagnose, the pump needed rebuilt.. However, the other was a bunch of garbage/rust/slime/sludge, ect.. in the bottom of the fuel tank, causing blockage and starving the machine for fuel after running for awhile.. If you have an old shopvac, get a 3’ piece of 3/4-!” PVC, tape it tight to the hose and suck out a gallon or 2 of fuel, see what it looks like… At least that’ll tell you what it’s NOT.. Oh, and start with a cleaned out shopvac canister.. Good luck..
Have u ever heard of a “suck bucket”.. that’s what I/we use for liquids.. U can Google it..
Haaaa, Nope, never heard of one till now.. I did a quick search, and landed on a thread from HEF… How sweet… Anywho, I used a piece of rigid pipe so I knew exactly where I was in the tank,,,, 20 years prior on the same machine, we used the clear tubing to suck out the hair/fuel mixture,,, what a freakin mess, no wonder it kept shutting down..