I just rebuild the reverser because my tractor would not go forward only reverse. I used a kit with new clutches, seals and oil pump. I also flushed the oil cooler and torque converter with atf because there was metal and brass in the oil pan before the rebuild. The tractor still will not go forward after the rebuild, but hopefully it’s due to this hydraulic leak. I have a big steady leak of hydraulic oil leaking through the threads of the T fitting with the sensor on the passenger side of the reverser. I’ve removed and installed the fitting 6 different times and tried to use oil rated pipe tape but it just comes off even though I’m threading it on clockwise. I even did it once counter clockwise just to see if I was loosing it. It doesn’t feel cross threaded. I can hand tighten the fitting all the way down to the end of the threads before it gets tight? I know I need to fix this leak first before I can troubleshoot the reverser, which hopefully will work after the leak is fixed. Any help will be appreciated. Should I use pipe dope?
Welcome to HEF wisdumb ! Go get yourself a new threaded nipple to put in there. Threads do not look right. Did you adjust the clutch pack endplay to specs when you installed the new clutches?
iIt looks to me like it is some kind of ORF fitting. Kinda like this one.
Not a NPTF fitting. You should try an o-ring but possibly threads are screwed up. May want to try a different T fitting that is NPTF.
Thanks for the replies! I also noticed a chip out of the casting of the reverser. I think that’s why it would tear off my pipe tape. I put a hydraulic rated paste on it and let it dry for 32 hours and it still leaked. But I could tighten that fitting down all the way by hand. What type of fitting is this if not npt? Mg2361 I did not adjust the clutch packs I just put whatever snap ring fit. I didn’t know there was an adjustment. Are they that finicky that it will mess it up.? Thanks again for the help.
Also the seals numbered “2” are the only seals that I reused the old ones. The kit from broken tractor had seals for it but they were obviously too large. I’m not sure what the function of those two seals are.
First, that threaded port in the reverser is definitely a pipe thread. I would suggest getting a new nipple like I posted above. Specific snap rings go into specific spots. For example, snap ring 14 must be .090"-.093" thick. Snap ring #16 must be .074"-.078" thick. Then you have to have a clutch pack clearance of .021"-.036" which is set by snap ring #6, which comes in 5 different sizes. If the clutch pack end play is too great, you could end up in a situation where the piston travels all the way, but does not sufficiently compress the clutches. Those seals are for the forward clutch circuit. If those seals are damaged or shot, you could lose forward clutch pressure.
Mg2361 thank you for all the information. I ordered the technical manual and the forward piston seals. Looks like I will be pulling the reverser back out this weekend. I will keep you posted as I go.
Sealant only helped a little before it leaked again. I got a new nipple in pipe thread I will put it back on retest. If the tractor still doesn’t move then I will pull out the reverser tomorrow and check the clearances in the clutch pack and replace those 2 old seals. Thanks for the help.
How do you test the clutch pack end play? Sorry my manual has yet to show up.
With feeler blades. Check your messages.
Thanks mg2361. I installed the new seals and adjusted the clutch pack per the specs you gave me. It’s all out back together and installed in the backhoe. I got a new threaded pipe nipple and it threads in tight as pipe thread should. Installed the fitting with pipe dope and tape last night. I used Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant 56521 Directions on the sealant say it doesn’t fully cure for 72 hours! I won’t mess with it tonight but I’m might get impatient with it and try it tomorrow night. Here’s a few pictures just because.
Did you remove the planetary gear set and replace the seal rings on that? They are also for forward.
Yes. They are cast iron rings that snap together. Thank you.
so it is now leaking between the case and the front cover housing. Leaking a lot. I removed the reverser put a new gasket and it is still leaking. I am now wondering if this hard rubber like washer that is orange is not supposed to be where I have it causing interference. If that is the case, where does it go? I believe it’s part number 22 thrust washer on the clutch pack. If it is correct why am I leaking so much fluid? I am in need of guidance once again. Thank you and sorry for being a pain in the A**
#22 is a thrust washer (a fiber like material) and it is supposed to be there. Are you sure the internal components (planetary and the forward clutch pack) are seated all the way in? All of the reverse brake discs engaged on the splines? Did you reuse the gasket and it got damaged?
I used a new gasket from John Deere. Everything to me seems good. The planetary seats all the way in and the forward clutch pack dropped all the way in. It is tricky to seat it in all the way. I took a picture of the last plate that has the springs under it and it is sitting flush with the case. It’s really got me stumped. Could an oil passage be blocked causing it to leak?
Yes reverse splines are engaged on the outside teeth of the clutch pack. I’m about to take it apart again and maybe video me assembling the whole thing and post a link to YouTube and maybe you can see if I’m missing something.
So I think I may have had the 2 oil hoses going to the oil cooler switched. Would that put too much pressure in the system and blow my seals?
Oil would flow the wrong way through the cooler, not build pressure. Where on the reverser front cover does the oil come out?
From 10 0 clock to 2 o clock.
From 10 o clock to 2 o clock.
That is where the forward pressure port is at. Must be an assembly issue. Don't know what else to offer since I can't lay eyes on it.
When I get time to pull it out again. I will give more information.
When you remove the shuttle see if you can turn the output shaft and input shaft by hand. You should be able to turn output shaft by hand may need channel locks for input shaft both should turn fairly easily. If not than something is not lined up correctly, and front cover may not be torquing down against gasket tight enough to seal off.
Ok I got it removed and I figured it out. When I got the new parts they shipped me 4 steel plates and 3 clutches. I used all 4 plates not thinking like an idiot. I looked at the parts diagram and it shows only 3 steel plates. I put it back together 2 weeks ago and I got more power to the wheels than I ever had.( I’ve owned it for 5 years). That extra steel plates created the oil leak. Thank you all for helping me out! 4th try is a charm!