I have a john deer 318d manual controls bought at auction wouldnt run oringinaly no crank .replaced ecm everything fine sat for 4 weeks now crank no start showing codes 189,3597.01 5 volt supply 1 low any help appreciated
189 codes are derate codes. 3597.01 is All Electronic Unit Pumps Have High Resistance. Left side of the machine (right side of the engine), towards the flywheel end, there is a plug going into the side of the block. Did that plug come loose/fall off?
I pulled that connector out , checked pins they were find ,sprayed contact cleaner anyways I also pulled the connector off at ecm and connected to power and ground of injector pins and heard each injector click
Then you need to check continuity of the wiring from the block connector to the ECU connector, as well as the harness under the valve cover. Check your messages.
thank, I will check both
Today I checked ecm terminals g1 to ci,2,4,5 and got readings of 8.3 ohmsw checking c1,2,4,5 directly to injector terminals i got 8.3 ohms on one side and 4.3 ohms on other side it looks like the harness inside the valve cover has a 4 ohm restistance is that enought to get a no start the g1 wire was reading 4.3 and .2 tested the same way the wiring external to the valve cheched at .3 ohms
Sorry, should of had you check this first. Battery good? Plenty of cranking voltage (>10 volts)? Ohms sounds high (there is no spec for this unfortunately, but should be less than 1 ohm, if I recall correctly), but before we proceed, check the red B04 wire that is on the battery positive cable. I think on that model it is crimped inside the battery clamp with the main cable. Grab that wire and wiggle it and pull on it. Is it tight and secure? Regardless, I would recommend cutting it at the clamp, put a ring terminal on it, then attach it to the battery clamp screw. Then follow the wire and you will come to the X20 single wire connector. Make sure the terminals in that connector is clean and tight. If that does not solve the issue, then continue below. I was a little confused in your statement as to what you were measuring, so for clarification, please measure below and report back. With the cylinder head X11 connector connected, what are the ohms between G1:G2 G1:C1 G1 1 G1:E1 G1:F1 Then at the X11 connector (connector disconnected, measuring the internal harness), measuring between terminals: 6:1 6:2 6:4 6:5
Thanks for your patience with x11 connected g1:g2 0 ohms g1:c1 8.4 ohms g1:d1 8.4 ohms g1:e1 8.4 ohms g1:f1 8.4 ohms with x11 disconnected measuring internal harness 6:1 8.4 ohms 6:2 8.4 ohms 6:4 8.4 ohms 6:5 8.4 ohms I also checked individual wires from the x11 connector to their connections directly on the injectors wire 1 4.3 ohms 2 4.3 ohms 4 4.3 ohms 5 4.3 ohms 6 0.2 ohms measuring across the injectors each one was 4.1 ohms at the injector connections I have 12.5 volts at x16 connector pins L-1,L-4,M-1,M-4 x-16 connector pins L-2,L-3,M-2 show 0 ohms to ground I will check the b04 cable Thanks
Sorry I messed up with x11 connected I measured g1:g2 is 0 ohms g1:c1 is 4.3 ohms g1:d1 is 4.3 ohms g1:e1 is 4.3 ohms g1:f1 is 4.3 ohms with x11 disconnected measuring internal harness 6:1 is 4.3 ohms 6:2 is 4.3 ohms 6:4 is 4.2 ohms 6:5 is 4.3ohms The 4.3 reading is the injector coil in the circut The indiviual wires all measured almost zero ohms by themselves The bo4 cable looked good, I measured the voltage at the connection while turning the motor over it stayed at 12.4 volts, but I still cut and put a ring terminal on it The dtcs showing up now are 3597.01, 3597.18 my manual shows what you said, "All Electronic Unit Pumps Have High Resistance" but the display on the machine says "5 volt supply 1 low" Thanks Josh
Did you measure the ohms of the individual injectors directly (no wiring)? Does the voltage supply to the ECU measure 12 volts?. Remain over 9.6 volts cranking? ECU ground sound?
Yes I measured the injectors with wires disconnected and measured 4.3 ohms for each Ecu voltage stayed over 12 volts while cranking measured directly Using the diagnostic display The switched and unswitched voltage For the ecu and emu stayed at 12 volts while cranking The 5 volt outputs were 4.9 volts While cranking
Found the spec. Injectors are supposed to be less than 8 ohms. I am starting to wonder if the driver in the ECU sh** the bed. Check your messages.
I bought this machine from a county auction in non running condition the ecu was completely dead,I had the local John Deere dealer replace it ,afterward it ran fine Parked it in shop, never used it litterly 10 minutes on new controller. sat for 2 month went to move it, wouldnt start .Here I am I beginning to think ecu went bad just as you suggusted
I have one here with a similar issue. Crank no start, but no codes. Has good fuel pressure (27 psi) while cranking. The cam and crank signal on service adviser appears to be what it should be. Swapped in another controller, no go. (-- you need one Josh?-- ) Any thoughts mg2361?
I plan on taking the machine back to the John deere dealer that put the ecu in and have them check the programming, I am hesitant to put another ecu in it with out knowing what caused this one to malfunction if it is bad thanks mg2361 for your help
What is the cranking speed? If it is too low (>250 rpm), the cam sensor readings will not be accurate. And, it will not throw a code. My first question would be, is this something that started immediately, or something that got worse over time? Are you running 0W-40 synthetic oil in the engine? That should be the only oil used in that engine. I know the operator's manual says 10W-30/15W-40 is OK, but in reality, it is not. Deere made a change and highly recommends the 0W-40. This is usually a cold weather fix. If you can get the engine running, how does it run from cold? I suggest at first start (if you get it running) to run it up to full throttle and shoot exhaust temps right away. Then shoot them as it warms up. If it is that difficult to start, then place a clear fuel line in the return circuit and make a vertical loop in it. Pump the primer to fill it as best as you can. Crank the engine and see how much air is in the fuel, if any. If there is a lot of air, then you are looking at injectors/pumps. Regardless of the presence of air or not, it still could be a unit pump issue. Cam gear slippage is another possibility, but that does not happen too often. The "D" series are notorious hard starters. The list of potential issues is staggering.
This machine has been here twice from another shop. First time to check and set cam timing. They had major struggles to get it running, but eventually got it going. Ran several days or so, for 12 hrs on the meter, shut it off, and I believe possibly was power washed. Didn't start since. I will try all your suggestions. Thank you
How was cam timing set? Was the JDG1700 cam timing tool used? Power washed?? I would be checking connectors for moisture.
Yes, we have all the tools for both the mechanical and electronic engines. Crank speed is 220 or so. Would that keep it from even commanding fuel delivery? We actually removed injector lines and there is not even a dribble of fuel.
LOL...I haven't seen the old version of Service Advisor in years. Fuel pressure at 1.4 psi, that is an issue. Supply good? How long until it builds? The fuel return lines out of the rear and side of the block. If they have the spring clamps, replace them with worm clamps. Then pinch off the return line. Crank the engine. Do you start to see fuel?
Supply builds to 27 psi fairly quickly(8 seconds?) as shown in max pressure on the reading. The backstory is that the owner (also a repair shop) struggled a while and finally replaced the pumps. (1 new, 3 used) Ran ok for several days then would not start after a normal shutdown. I suspect fuel contamination took out the "new" pumps, but trying to rule out other possibilities. The lift pump was new, but did appear almost scored. We changed it again to get good fuel pressure.
No restrictions in the supply? Red Flags. Not that it would affect start up, but were they calibrated? Again, try pinching the return like I mentioned and let's see if any fuel starts to come out of the pumps (and don't forget to change out the clamps, or that line will pop off when pinched).
I know, not my decision. And again, we're rapidly running into the question of how much the customer is willing to spend now. Thank you much for your help, MG. Josh, sorry to piggyback on your thread. Let us know what you end up finding.