Hello, bought a 2012 John Deere 318D Skid steer with under 800 hour. Looked like a great deal until we found out that it was over heating all the time. The fan is run via hydraulics that is controlled by a valve with 3 solenoids. 1 solenoid has power the other 2 don't even after trying all the switches. It does have a reverse fan setting as an option that does not look like it does anything at this time. Already spend over a grand with the John Deere Dealer technician and they want more diagnostics to be done. Hoping for some guidance if any one has any idea what it might be.
Wally what is your email so I can send you some manuals so you have something to work with to start off with .
[email protected] thank you
Manuals emailed to you.
Welcome to HEF Wally ! Serial number? On that valve, unplug the solenoid that is on the side (not the one's on top) and start the machine. Does the fan turn? If not then that valve should come apart and be inspected for debris. Also take of the hydraulic filter and cut it open and inspect for debris. The serial number will help determine also if you have the updated fan speed valve or not.
Any way you can send those my way running into the same problem [email protected]
Can I also get a copy of the manuals? I have the same problem. Fan works unplugged. Tested the coils and valves, all work as necessary. Fan will not spin at startup when plugged in, but switch will give reverse function momentarily. Is this an electrical or hydraulic issue. Thank you for your assistance.
What is your email ?
Sorry, forgot to add that. [email protected]
Hi all - we are having the same problem with a 333e. Slow fan. Overheating. Purchased new pump, no help. Took apart block with solenoids, etc. no help. Replaced hydro filter.... no help. Pressure washed radiator, no help. Fuses are all good. Fan spins (slowly) at idle and turns up with throttle speed but it's not going very fast. How did I know if it's a solenoid? or a hydro problem? 1T333EMVEE26477 is serial. Thanks, Clint
Can someone email me also, I have the same issue. [email protected]
Manuals emailed .
So, I actually have the 333E, with the similar issue. The fan does not spin when engine is started. I understand the VCU controls the fan speed based on monitoring the coolant temp, hydra temp, hydro temp, and the air conditioning state. However on Y31 of the Solenoid Valve Coil I do get 10.2 volts in dc, and on a simple test with a screwdriver to get magnetic off the top, which I do, so that would tell me that the coil is working. However the magnetic response compared to the reverse fan solenoid is way different. I'm starting to think that the forward solenoid is bad. Any thoughts?
Clint, what was your final outcome on this issue?
Welcome to HEF Rcguenther ! Serial number? Unplug that solenoid. Does the fan turn? It should run at full speed when unplugged. If not, then the first thing I recommend is to remove the hydraulic filters, cut them open and inspect them. How to inspect a filter.
Serial #1T0333EMPDE248966 Unplug the solenoid, fan does not run at all, Looking for an operators manual or service manual as well. I have a few pages printed from the dealership. When the machine running, you can bump the fan and it stops right away, bump harder it starts to spin, at full throttle it spins, blows air, but not as fast as it should, and within 15 minutes, the machine overheats.
Either your fan motor sh&t the bed, or some debris from somewhere else (charge pump, hydraulic pump, debris from an attachment, packing material, etc) got into the solenoid. Your issue is not control, it is mechanical. That's why I suggest you inspect filters. That fan, even in freezing weather, should always turn.
On a 333E tracked skidloader, where is the hydraulic drain plug? The manual only shows a wheeled machine, and the location is not there.
Just spent the last 4 hours replacing all hydraulic fluid, and filter. We did cut the old filter apart, inspected the filter, appears fine. Put new Hydra fluid in straight from Deere, $460 ouch. Did pull out the Solenoid Valve Coil appeared fine, and did pull out the Pressure Relief Valve and cleaned it out a bit, re-inserted, filled new oil, reassembled machine, started up, fan appeared to be spinning slowly on start. Ran machine for about 15 minutes and the machine overheated. Brought back into the shop, attempted to disconnect the pressure relief valve as stated to run full blown, and still not spinning. I believe my next thing is to replace the relief valve and then go towards the fan motor. Suggestions?
The coil in itself could be ok...but that valve that is operated with the coil is possibly your problem Such as something stuck in valve not letting it open/close as needed On a side note it might be less expensive to follow the advise given by MG2361 step by step until you know exactly where or what the problem is
By this you mean clean? Or just some small fine looking metal? Sorry, I need specifics. So, you found the drain plug. I don't recall off the top of my head, but it should have been in the location indicated, even with tracks. It is not on the bottom of the reservoir, it is on the side, about an inch up from the bottom. By this, do you mean the solenoid cartridge on the fan motor? Normally, when there is a no turning of the fan on a SSL/CTL, the first thing I do after pulling the plug on the solenoid (with no change in fan speed) and filter inspection (and no debris found) is check the charge pressure. If that is OK, then I move to a motor leakage test. You would need to run a separate hose from the case drain of the fan motor (plug the original hose to prevent the reservoir from draining) and route it safely out to a measurable container. Then with the fan speed solenoid disconnected, engine at fast idle, leakage from the motor's case drain should not exceed 17 oz/min. If it is within spec, then your issue is in the solenoid cartridge, or the charge pump (tested with a flow test with a flow meter). Obviously, if it exceeds 17 oz/min, then the motor is the issue.
Just reading these posts raises my blood pressure. Ugh. Thank god my machine still has a fan belt. Good luck guys
Hello Everyone, Little late with an update on my findings but this is what had to be done to fix my issues after spending about 6 Grand with the dealers. I have the updated Fan Speed Valve. Ran into more than 1 issue that caused my problem. #1 - Make sure all the solenoids are torqued to spec as overtightening them will impact if the solenoids are going to properly work or not. Problem #1 #2 - 2 of my solenoids needed to be replaced. Problem #2 #3 - Computer was not controlling the Fan Speed Correctly - Needed a new Computer. Problem #3 On top of the 6 Grand the computer was going to cost me another $3,500.00 or so. Dealer gave me a choice to bypass the computer as at that time I was done spending money with everyone and just wanted any fix without costing me anymore. To bypass the computer the dealer ran a direct power wire from the ignition switch to 2 of the solenoids on the Fan Speed Valve body and disconnected (Cut) 2 wires so the computer does not interfere anymore. The Fan now runs at a constant 1 way speed every time I start the Skid Steer. It does not overheat whatsoever. If have attached a picture of where the ignition wire was connected to the solenoids if one of you decides to by pass the computer. Hope it helps many, Regards Wally [email protected]