This stared with disconnecting the battery while trying to jump start the machine after it died overnight. After we jump started the machine it was running then as I went to take the jumper cables off, I pulled the negative battery terminal and the machine turned off and sparks flew either as the terminal was lifting away or when it came back down on the terminal(cant exactly remember when). After wards whenever we would try to unlock the Anti-Theft the machine was saying Unlocking Failed. We were able to get it to turn over at some point but got worse when each time we would turn it over it would turn over less and less till all it would do is click and now there is nothing. The alternator we believed to be part of the issue and the starter was looking crusty so we replaced both to rule them out and in the process found a small wire loom that ran behind the cab in the engine bay was worn through to bare wires. none of these solved the issue. We are looking for parts if needed and assistance with knowledge on repair.
Complete machine serial number please? Keyed or keyless start? As of right now, when you sit in the seat, turn ignition on, try to start, what exactly happens? Any messages in the monitor? Does it still ask to be unlocked? Any clicks?
1T0328EKTDE243618 Keyless When you sit on the chair the info panel to the left lights up, I don't remember the lights that come on before the issue, but the one bothering me the most is the hydraulic cylinder with a line through it. Does that just mean it is locked, or worse. When I power the system by pressing the start button nothing different, not until I hold it to start, the secondary light turns on to indicate engine running or start and nothing happens not even a click.
I also looked at the trouble codes and took pictures. I'll compile them in a google drive folder and send the link.
Here is the folder with the photos. IMG_20240107_105637_279.jpg drive.google.com
If more photos are needed they'll be posted to the same link.
The picture you have is the ECU is not communicating on the network. The ECU may have lost its power supply or ground. Has the F3 ECU 25A fuse been checked? If the fuse is good and voltage is passing through, then check the K20 ECU relay. That would be located under the cab, left side looking in, behind a tin cover. There will be a 2 stacks (one above the other) of relays on the rearward side of that relay block. The K20 should be the top relay of the lower stack. Post your codes as well. Post the numerical SPN/FMI numbers please (XXXX.XX).
I can remember the number but there is a 25 amp fuse that keeps blowing
Yes F3 keeps poping, upon first press of start button
And can we get a fuse diagram for the 328E, I can't find one online
If you are blowing fuses, then the issue needs to be repaired. Fuse diagram or wiring diagram? Wiring diagram will not likely be found online. Check your messages. Don't you have an operator's manual? You can view it for free here . Type fuse in the search bar in the upper left and you will find the image below.
Thank you
I found the parts list but not the manual
Did you click on the blue "here" in my last post? That should have taken you directly to the operator's manual.
Yes I did, just stating what I was able to find on the website earlier. Apologies for the confusion.
Could we get a diagram for the fuses and what they are, I looked through the manual you got me and it doesn't say or show anything.
Check your messages.
Thank you
These are currently all the codes the machine is throwing. EMU 920.05 Alarm output out of range low VCU 158.03 Battery voltage switched power out of range high VCU 168.03 Battery voltage unswitched power out of range high VCU 168.04 Battery voltage unswitched power out of range low HCU 523217.04 Hydraulic valve power 3 to HCU out of range low HCU 523219.04 Hydraulic valve power 1 to HCU out of range low HCU 516193.04 Left foot pedal signal 1 out of range low EMU 1196.11 Anti-theft unknown fault see manual HCU 522450.05 Left pump fwd sol current out of range low EMU 2000.09 No ECU data on CAN bus abnormal data range ECU 522329.00 Water in fuel switch data above normal HCU 516195.04 Right foot pedal signal 2 out of range low HCU 522447.05 Right pump fwd sol current out of range low EMU 158.01 battery voltage switched power data below normal ECU 523249.05 Crank and cam sensor out of range low EMU 522828.07 Creep mode switch input mechanical fault VCU 3598.03 5 volt sensor supply 2 out of range high ECU 522323.00 Air filter switch data above normal ECU 522599.09 CAN Comm Y_ECR1 abnormal data rate ECU 522597.09 TSC1 CAN message abnormal data rate
The relay is good and the fuse is still burning upon turning accessory power on.
Wow, you must carpal tunnel syndrome after typing all that out . With the fuse removed, plug an ohmeter on the load side terminal of the fuse holder and check for continuity to ground. Then inspect the harness thoroughly for chafing through clamps or where harness go around bends. If nothing evident, then start unplugging connectors to maybe isolate a harness. Since it appears the only 2 items on that fuse are the ECU and the EGR valve, maybe start by unplugging them to see if the short to ground goes away. For many of those codes, I would check your static battery voltage, then check the charging system voltage once you get it running. Once you find your short, then the codes will have to be cleared.
I sent the ecu to get tested/repaired, they said that the ecu was not communicating and paid to have it repaired. you had said to unplug the egr to do a test but I can not find the plug for it, when i lift up the cab i see the egr exhaust input on the right side looking from the front, I emmidiantly see a plug but i assume it is a temp or pressure sensor. it doesn't look like an egr valve controller plug.
can I test the egr with a multimeter to see if it is bad or not?
If the ECU is defective, then maybe that is what blew the fuse??
It is really just as a precaution, unless the fuse will protect it.
No. Don't have specifications for it. The only thing I would suggest is to check terminal "A" of the EGR valve with a multimeter. Measure the "A" pin to ground. If there is no resistance then I would say it is shorted. If there is resistance (again, no spec available) I would say it is not shorted.
I plugged the ecu in and still did not start, fuse was still poping, we unplugged the egr and it finally started but now we can't get the Hydraulic release and park brake to disengage. Although the auxiliary Hydraulics still work.
And all of the previous active ecu codes are gone now all we get is a no egr comm code.
I guess the fuse did not blow? Sounds like a bad EGR valve. What is the battery voltage when running? Clear all the codes. See if anything returns other than the EGR code. When you sit in the seat, close the cab door, start the engine, lower the seat bar, what do the indicator lights do on the instrument cluster?
14v on the tractor display We have no tool to clear the codes unless there is a special way to do it through the tractor. #16 pops up when you kill the engine but otherwise none of them are on.
Also on the left hand display the screen always says remote start connected and won't go away until you press one of the 4 buttons by the display.
That is why your machine won't release the park brake or the hydraulics. One of the diodes (I believe it will be the V1) in the fuse panel is in backwards. Make sure the diodes are pointing in the direction shown below.
It worked, the diode was reversed.
Now does anyone know of a good place to get an emissions delete kit. I have tried looking and have not had any luck. The main reason is because the egr is so expensive, and it'll just be cheaper in the long run not having to replace it everytime it goes out.
And this is for a 328e