This week I bought a Deere 450C Track Loader. It has a 4 in 1 bucket. Unit is clean and in good shape. I'm cleaning up fence rows so I will be pushing hedge, brush, small trees, etc. The ROPS has been off of it, probably for years. The ROPS must have been laying upside down, filled with rain water and froze because it has some nasty cracks in it. I know somebody will jump up and down and yell you can't weld on a ROPS so before I go there how easy is it to find a good used one? Mine is the kind that mounts above the dash. Also did any 450's have both a 4 in 1 bucket and a ripper?
Nice looking unit, would you say what you paid for it? I have a JD 355 track loader, its works pretty good with moving dirt and stuff around, the best option is the 4 way bucket...the tracks on yours are a bit tight and should be loosened slightly..
Thanks. I need to get some books on it.
I would say weld it up its better than nothing, but that ROPS is TOAST!
I bought the full manual on mine on cd about a year ago for very reasonable , I think it was just $60.00..ill try and find the place I ordered it from, I have it book marked somewhere...but I did a google search to find it.. found it https://www.epcatalogs.com/john-dee...ler-bulldozer-loader-tm1115-technical-manual/ just search for your model if they have it... here is your model https://www.epcatalogs.com/john-deere-450c-crawler-tm-1102-technical-manual-pdf/ its 656 pages long on cd they may have more manuals , just search their sight..this one is $60.00 on cd and or they give a down load link..then I made a few cds as not to lose it.. I think the ROPS you have is very salvageable, bring it to a qualified welder and they can replace the damaged areas and weld in new pipe of proper strength, it might cost a few bucks, but so is your life worth spending it on, especially pushing trees, too many widow makers can fall from way up or if some wind takes the tree back at you..dont cheap out in this area, your life isnt worth it, if your lucky you get killed and dont live like a cripple or worse...im sure many will tell you to do the same..do it...dont risk it over a few bucks in the big picture of expenses..I have the same looking ROPS..it also makes a great place to mount lights, fire extinguisher and keep the weather off of you rain/sun...
You can weld on a ROPS. Just don't expect a MSHA inspector to pass it, or employees to run it (OSHA). If its your own track loader, on your own property, run only by you, no one can say anything about it. If I was pushing trees over, a rewelded rops would be better than no ROPS.
This is my thoughts and I plan on having it welded by a qualified welder if I can't find another one but didn't want to get into an argument with some Jack Wagon. Thanks.
Considering I constructed my own until I got my donor with a welder made unit on it that will eventually go on my machine I would have little issue welding on that one until I could find a replacement NOT freeze split. Most are not called for as to saving a life many are just Sun and tree limb shades but on that one chance occasion I would want a good solid unit to save my bacon. And you can scoff or decline but I added a seatbelt in mine on reference to a local excavator that died being thrown out of a dozer where the ROPS crushed him.
There were a lot of 450C's so finding a used ROPS shouldn't be too hard. Find a dealer who is part of the used parts network. They have a listing of who has what in their used departments. Be careful working around tree's with a 4 in 1 bucket. Tree branches are great at finding and destroying the hyd. lines on a 4 in 1, metal and rubber! I'm sure you could get hyd's for a 4 in 1 and ripper. You might find the valve for that and ripper too.
The 455D I had with 4n1 bucket came with the plumbing and control for a ripper. Not sure if it was an option on a 450C but I would think so. I would definitely use a seat belt with a canopy. I am one lucky person that knows that.
Your ROPS is like mine on a JD 350--they look identical from your photos, though mine doesn't have the splits (astounding that it doesn't!). The front of these attach with a 5/8" bolt (if I remember correctly). I almost hesitate to call them a ROPS the way they are attached--though something is better than nothing! If I recall, the shear strength of a 5/8 gr 8 is about 30,000 lbs. Considering your machine with a 4:1 is pushing 20K, it doesn't take much of an impact on a roll-over to shear a bolt. I consider mine to be more of a branch shield than anything (and it works well at that). All things considered, a good weld on the split and that pipe won't be the weakest link. Use grade 8 bolts on the front two points (I'd go Gr 8 all the way 'round).
There are 4 bolts at the back of ROPS too. I think a 450 will have a bigger ROPS than a 350/355. Maybe someone with JD experience will know?
Thanks for all the comments!
A few pics of my other toys.
Saw your post at AC Forum!
If I remember right the bucket open feature is controlled by the upper lever in the last picture. You could easily plumb a ripper by installing Tees in the circuit at the control that controls the 4in1 bucket. Then it is a simple as disconnecting the quick connects at the bucket and use the control to raise or lower the ripper. Or add a power beyond single valve control in the feed line going to the bucket open/close control. Mine had a third lever in a slot next to the armrest that fed the rear quick couplers. It had no knob, just a 1/4" X 3/4" or so bar stock with a smooth rounded top so the hyd. oil tank access cover would still hinge open. Easy to feel which lever you were touching.
I have the 450B with a Drott 4-in-1, and the 9300 hoe. I would love to find a ROPS for it...and your ROPS is repairable, and to repair to original design strength should not be a problem for a qualified welder. Note qualified and NOT certified. Mine has six teeth and not seven teeth, and to get the 4 in 1 working properly has been an adventure...hoses, rebuilt cylinders, and finally today, dismantlement for the relief valve. Best of luck. Howard
I dropped the ROPS off last week to a very qualified welder/fabricator. After that I found a place to take it to have the ROPS sandblasted and powder coated. Can't wait to get it back in shape and over my head. Thanks!
One thing to remember on a John Deere crawler loader with a 4n1 when you have the lip open to use it as a blade drop the loader all the way down and rest it on the stops. That stiffens the loader and reduces greatly the cylinder stress while holding the loader stable. To adjust your cut you simply tip the bucket forward or back a bit to lower or raise the cutting edge on the back section of the bucket. It should have a page telling about it in the operators manual. You will be surprised how nice it will cut grade that way.
Slight update. My welder sent me this photo, not done but looking great! This guy is good at what he does.
Excellent.
looks like your welder knows his trade. However, the proof is fit-up to the tractor!
Well I got it on. I need to go get the right bolts tomorrow but it ain't falling off tonight! Matt, my welder did an excellent job, all he had to go on was a cracked up ROPS and my best, half assed measurements.
You will appreciate the canopy!!
Looks like quality work!
Why didn't you sand it and paint it before putting it on?
Had to do a test fit before spending money on sandblasting and paint that might have been a waste. I had never seen the ROPS on the tractor before and it measured a little bit tweaked.
You could also wipe down the rusty areas with Ospho and then prime and paint it with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun, or hand brush for that matter.
Check the front crossmember. These tractors were troubled by broken bolts attaching crossmember to the track frame. Lazy people would then weld. The bolts would allow a bit of flex. Weld doesn't. When the crossmember breaks, it puts undue strain on the transmission housing. The cast iron is then difficult to weld reliably. I'd avoid buying a repaired transmission tractor. Replacement transmission housings are scarce, and a big job to change out. I was ready to write a check for one when I discovered new paint on the transmission housing, Sure enough, the seller had welded it up still in the tractor, guts still in it. I thanked him for his trouble, but passed on the purchase. Willie
Interesting. My Dad told me years ago at the company He worked, they had several Deere loaders and dozers, they had several backhoes in the line and when they needed one they would just hook it too which ever 450 they were taking. He told all or most of them had a broken Fram, if I remember right he said just ahead of the right side final drive. The weight of the backhoe was too much for the tractors. Anyways, not sure exactly where you are saying they crack but I don't see any cracks or welds on mine.
If I were you I'd talk to Mark Courchaine in Johnson VT. He's the final authority of knowledge where these tractors are concerned. Your crossmember looks very different from the one I passed on. Maybe the loaders had a different crossmember. As he explained it, the two bolts (yours has six) would break, half assed mechanics would weld instead of getting the bolts out. It caused the crossmember to eventually break, leaving the front of the tractor hanging off the transmission. Says broken transmissions are common in them.
Looks like the same cross member in the 550 dozer to me. Looks like all the bolts are thereas well.