Can someone tell me how to prime the pump on the direct drive transmission model. level ground and won't move. 450g Thanks Eddie
First a serial number would help. Did the machine just quit or was this something that got worse over time? Oil level good and oil quality good? Using Hygard I hope. You should only have to prime it if the pump was replaced or the suction screen was serviced. Priming is done simply by removing the suction line and squirting as much oil as you can into the pump inlet and then reinstall the suction line. I would suggest while having the suction line disconnected removing the suction screen (the other end of the suction hose is attached to the suction screen) and inspecting it. Let us know what you find in there (maybe post pics if there is debris).
I cleaned the suction screen , the machine was stopping , i could turn it off and start it and it would go again, the serial is 747
serial 757948. i changed the filter, fixed a hose leaking fluid, vibration in the floor and the left pedal when you push it . hadnt noticed that before. still won't go very far and the red light comes on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
There wasn't much on the suction screen, i cleaned it anyway. Took the hose off to the filter and fluid was flowing so i know its primed.
Does not move in all gears? A particular gear? You will need to check transmission pressure at this point. You will need to acquire if you don't have it is the Operation and Test Manual TM1403, and a 500 psi gauge, fittings and a whip hose. You may want to look at the forum thread I posted below. I don't think yours is the same issue but worth a look. Diagnostics you could try at minimal expense. HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks for the reply. What did he mean when he isolated the filter housing from the return and every thing worked? it works in all gears is it possible the filter could be plugged again and would it bypass. i am going to replace the filter again and flush the pump, change the fluid and see what happens. I ordered the manuel as you suggested. will keep you posted.
had fine metalshavings in the filter. very few on the intake screen from the transmission, is their a bearing in the transmission pump that could be bad hence the vibration?
If you have metal like that on a freshly changed filter then there is something failing inside the transmission. Looks like a brass material?? Can you pick it up with a magnet? Either way the rear cover will have to come off to take a peak inside.
This is in the spin on filter on the outlet side of the pump, the suction screen had nothing on it. Wouldn't it be the pump putting the metal out? IF so where can i get the pump rebuilt without buying a new one. Hopefully the manuel will be here soon.
Just checked and its brass, magnet won't pick it up. Is that from the Transmission?
I think before you buy a pump wait for mg's reply. He's very knowledgeable on JD equipment.
I will definitely wait for mg's reply and appreciate all the help.
I believe that metal in your filter is small enough to pass through the screen. The only way to confirm a pump issue is with pressure and flow testing. I don't remember but I do not think the thrust plates in that pump are of a brass material. Also the bushings in the pump for the gears are a Teflon coated material. What I do know for sure is that based on your serial number all the gears in your clutch packs have brass bushings in them where they spin on the shafts (later serial number machines have ball bearings) and the thrust washers associated with the clutch gears are brass. No bearings, just bushings as mentioned above. Remove the drive shaft between the pump and transmission to see if the vibration goes away.
I'm going to take the back plate off, the vibration is not there with the driveshaft removed, It stops when i push the inch pedal. Whatever that throws out of gear must be where the problem is. Can you point me in that direction? I am thinking the forward and reverse shaft, but just a guess.
Correction, the input shaft has bearings and the clutch shafts, ring gear and pinion all have bearings. Just the gears within the clutches have bushings. Yes, look at the Forward/Reverse shaft.
i drained the fluid and heres what it looked like. choclate milk with marshmellow cream on top. is this normal, brand new hy tran ran about 45 minutes.
How long was the oil sitting in the pail when you took the pic.? It looks full of air maybe from an internal leak or bypassing somewhere?
i just pulled it out from under the dozer and snapped the pic , all 4 buckets were like this . Any idea whats going on?
It looks to me like something was agitating the oil, maybe a leaky seal or something that created some back pressure to cause foaming of the oil. MG will probably have a better idea what could cause it.
MG, do i need to run pressure test before opening up the transmission plate or go ahead and take it off? its ready to be removed but i havent pullled it yet, just got the long bolts today.
Before you pull the back cover off I forgot to mention that because it is a 450 make sure at least one track is in a position to be split. If it comes to the point that the transmission has to come out the 450-550 has to have a track split to get the trans out while a 650 can be done without a track split. A pressure check should have been the first thing checked when a machine does not move. But most times here on the forum many who look for help don't have the test equipment to do the pressure checks so I start with checking simple things like filters first. Do you have gauges? At this point I would pull the plate to take a peek. It won't take long at this point. With the metal in your filter I think something is failing in there. The oil looking like chocolate milk could have been aeration. After sitting over night does it look like normal oil now or does it still look like chocolate milk?
That's a 5 gallon bucket of Mocha Latte if I ever seen one!
That oil is aerated, SEVERELY, the pump did not lose prime is sucking air. Was the suction line replaced? Does it have the correct fittings on the ends or are they generic and incorrect as to flare angle by chance and not seating? Any damage to the flare angle surfaces? Did not by chance swap Pressure and Suction sides with lines off?
It’s a piece of hose with 2 clamps on the suction side no way to cross it
where is this from was laying in the bottom right behind the back plate
false alarm, i figure this is a final drive shaft piece that the previous owner changed but left this in the bottom, back to square one.
Why was it left in if it's that easy to remove? Previous owner doesn't sound too bright.
I dont believe that was just left in there from a previous repair. You have something coming apart in a major way.
It was straight splines not beveled that’s why I took it to be the final drive spline both of them look fine from what I could see
Take a few pics of those pieces from different angles and post them here. No mechanic thats even half ass would leave crap like that in there. If he did he has no business repairing anything.
Sure will as soon as I get into it today
it was teeth up in the bottom looks like it wore for a while on that flat spot
Am I mistaken or is that Clutch Hub?
Where should I look to see I haven’t been into a transmission before
Deere Clutches have Hydraulic applied from Start to Engage them opposite most others that are spring apply Hydraulic release, they are hydraulic apply spring release. I am hoping you have not lost a clutch pack.
How can I tell if I have ?
I have all 4 gears in forward and reverse until the filter stops up with the fine material in the previous post
First off you need to remove both shafts that connect the ring gear to the steering clutches to inspect. That piece in the photo is from those shafts. Your serial number would have had the old shafts, not the improved shafts. Get yourself the repair manual TM1404, you will need it. Those shafts are removed after the track is split (only one side needs to be split) and you have access to the final drive pinion. Under the trans there are two pipe plugs under the steering clutches. Remove them and in there are allen headed screws that you wind in to support the clutches weight. Make a tool that is about 4 feet long with a tee handle on one end and a bolt welded to the other end that fits the pinion (I think it is 12 mm). Use that tool to remove the final drive pinion shaft, steering clutch shaft from that side and then reach to the other clutch shaft on the other side and pull into the ring gear and leave it there (it won't pull through to remove). Remove the two bolts with 24 mm heads from the transmission and the 10 mm headed bolts from plate holding the steel tubes to the trans control valve and just slide the trans out on the rails until it hits the the flat washers. Take a good look at the clutches and gears. You might be able to spot your issue from this point. Post photos.
Got it apart today and heres what i found. Other side seems to be the same. final drive shaft and pinion. Have the bearings worn and let the shafts rub together?
The wear on those shafts in the pictures is "somewhat" normal on machines with high hours and not too well maintained oil. Did you slide the trans out the back and inspect all the clutches and gears for excessive/unusual movement?
That’s on my to do list for today . Do you think I need to upgrade the shaft while it’s out ? There’s a lot of play with the brass bushing
I pulled the transmission out to the stops, checked everything i could touch, nothing out of the ordinary, had my brother in law check it also, nothing shows up, only thing is the shaft and pinion, lots of play in the bushing. I will try to post video. I am at a loss for where to go from here. also took the transmission pump of the back of the main pump and inspected it. Very few if any marks on the brass plates, looked fine.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=657448718155355
Can't view video. Says its in Facebook. Put it on YouTube then post the video.
When the filter plugs transmission pressure is routed to lube circuit bypassing the control valve.
I don’t have YouTube channel can I text it to you or send with messenger on Facebook if you send friend request
I do not have a Facebook account and I never will. Unfortunately I won't do text because I never give out my phone number. You might want to set up a YouTube acct. It's free. Maybe someone out there knows another platform that can be used.
I understand , I do the same in my line of work, will look into the u tube option or maybe someone can help with the posting,