So we've found a halfway decent machine but the brakes are mostly non operational, would like to have brakes. Has anyone ever done the internal wet brakes? I figure its an easy job but all the parts are really frickin heavy? I have been pawing through the parts diagrams and will be picking up the manuals as I find them, or ordering from JD if I can't find them. From what the parts diagrams show, jack, block, remove wheels, remove driveshaft, remove hydraulic brake line, remove axle. then gut the axle like a doe. How much does that puppy weigh? our Kubota will pick up 3000 pounds with the forks I'm good with bottle jacks and we could even make a dolly/carrier up for doing this job if it'd make it easier. Some kind of axle cradle on wheels. What's the odds that the hydraulic brake pump has failed? Inspecting tech said there was a warning light on the dash. Hopefully it'll be an excellent project.
As I recall the rear axle is center mounted on trunnions, you can do one side at a time without pulling the complete axle out. The front (with the loader arms safetied up) you just unbolt, jack the frame a bit and roll it out complete then remove the tires. Same deal if it's easier just do one side at a time.
Thanks, I was wondering the same for the front axle, do half at a time, no idea what the weight of the assembly is. Anyone ever heard of a brake pump going bad? seems to be a separate pump on the back of the main pump?
Probably could, loosen the bolts on one side, support the center housing. Exactly what model number and letter are you working with?
644E, working at getting all the manuals but there's one testing guide that's elusive, perhaps the local dealer will help with excerpts
Yeah, looks like the E model has a separate piston pump for the brakes. I see it has twin brake pedals, twin accumulators, twin pressure switches. Does one pedal work better than the other or not at all basically? If the brake pressure is down I wouldn't tear into the axles until you get that resolved, unless the light only comes on when you apply the brakes.
It hasn't arrived yet, just gathering some data on the solution path and potential work involved. The tech that inspected it just noted it had a brake warning light lit. I see pumps for sale but rather imagine a local pump specialty shop could rebuild it. It has a good price and a few problems but think it'll last a very long time with light work.
I wouldn't worry about the axles unless the oil levels are way over full. Internal wet disks don't really start to wear until they get many thousands of hours on them.
Well does 24000 count? What would a high fluid level indicate?
Yes. Brake piston seals leaking. It looks like the "E" model has a return to the hydraulic tank for the diff lock but not the air boost system that the "G" came with to return excess oil to the reservoir.
Thanks for the info, I've managed to pick up copies of the manuals off ebay for quite a bit less than JD is asking for. Hopefully I'll have a handle on the problem once the machine arrives.
Step one, inspect the brakes, rears are plugged off and fronts are completely toast, still some braking action but its metal on metal. Parking brake was BBQ'd as well, that we can fix!! Scraped off old friction surface with an air chisel, sanded smooth with a belt sander, and cleaned up the drum on the lathe. Got some friction material from McMaster Carr, cut it with a cutoff wheel, finished it up with a belt sander and bonded it with JB weld Marine epoxy, oil and gas resistant, left it clamped for 24 hours and gave it a little sanding to add some clearance, works great! We now have parking brakes that hold the loader back with ease.
There's a little Yankee ingenuity for ya! :usa
Thanks, working at breaking them in a little bit cause they bite like a hungry shark right now, I suppose that's a good thing! Looking at doing much the same for the in-axle brakes as well, just buy the frictions and bond everything together.