I have a 2007 jonh deere 650j It started sputtering I noticed the oil pressure was really high I tested it with a test set at ide it was 65 psi New oil and filter no change I was going to remove and check the oil regulator I thought I had a complete service manual but I guess not I can not find the location The serial is t0650jx139568 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks all
Engine serial # PE4045H648321 model 4045HT050 . The oil pressure regulator valve is under the timing cover and not accessible from the outside. . https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/57341/referrer/navigation/pgId/670535873 . Whats with the sputtering, starving for fuel ? Any codes ?
No codes I know hitgh oil pressure can cause sputtering I am hoping it is just a bad oil regulator And not a plugged iol gallery Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
That’s a new one for me !
At least in Gas eingens Not sure about deisel
I can’t think of anyway high oil pressure would affect this Deere engine performance. Is the sputtering a new problem ? What have you tried so far to fix it ?
It started a few weeks a go It has not been used much sens i started acting up after it warmed up It would idel perfect but but as soon as you start to increase rpms The faster the reps the more is sputters Crank sensor Fuel filter Eingen speed control It has full power when sputtering Any thouts
The oil pressure is not your issue. That machine has a Stanadyne DE10 electronic injection pump. You first want to make sure you have a good fuel supply and pressure to that pump. If it is starving for fuel, that can cause your issue. Press and hold the menu button for 5 seconds with the key on until the words SERVICE MENU appear in the display. Then scroll to codes. Post any active or stored codes.
He’s changed a fuel filter element but has he done anything regarding the tank, fuel lines, and cleaning the passages in the fuel filter head. Until all that is ticked off I wouldn’t suggest doing anything else. Thanks for giving me the best laugh I’ve had all week.
There are no codes I checked fuel up to the filter I will check it at the injection pump to day the high oil pressure started and sputtering at the same time My big fear with high oil pressure is some part in the eingen is not getting oiled Are there any valves that require oil pressure to operate? Much like variable valve timing in cars I have seen this cause problems 65 psi at ide says dangers catastrophic eingen damage coming soon
Believe it or not I have had a variable valve timing with a pluegd oil passage caused all sorts of problems I will check the complete fuel system today Should I not worry about the high oil pressure Thanks for all the help from the group
When you are attempting to diagnose what appears to be a fuel problem it’s always best to start the diagnostic journey from the same place that the fuel starts, i.e. the tank, and work forwards. Does the tank have a drain valve for removing water & sediment.? How long since it was last opened, etc, etc.? Don’t forget to disassemble the head assemblies from all the fuel filters, remove all the fittings, and blow air or run a piece of wire through every passage. You may get some surprising results, but even if you don’t at least you have ticked the boxes. Diagnostics is nothing more complex than eliminating things one at a time in a logical order until the root cause of the problem is found, and starting from the simplest most inexpensive things can potentially save you a lot of cash.
I’ll bet that wasn’t on a diesel engine though.? If the 65psi at idle that you measured was with the engine cold I wouldn’t think so. At normal operating temperature the answer might be a bit different. Caveat, that would be on a Cat engine. I stand corrected if it’s not the case on yours.
I most definitely agree and will do as you suggested And I know I am betting a dead Should I be worried about the high oil pressure if I find a problem in the fuel system and fix it Thanks for putting up with all the stupid?
The eingen temp was about 90f So not hot Even in the middle of winter it would never peg the needle
I suggest that the JD specialists need to answer that.
See what the oil pressure is like with the coolant temperature at 190-200 would be my thoughts.
Specs are 15psi at ide and 40psi at wide open
But I would imagine that the pressure specifications would be for measurements taken with the engine at normal operating temperature, which by your own admission your engine most certainly was not when you took that reading. I would also suggest (it certainly would be if it was a Cat engine) that the oil pressure specifications are minimum acceptable values.
It pains me to say you are right Aging lol I wish I had 10% of your experience with heavy equipment I will let you know about the fuel system in a few hours Thanks again for trying to keep me going in the right direction I know it is hard at times
Try to put your oil pressure doubts to one side for the moment and concentrate on the fuel system issues would be my suggestion FWIW.
That would be with the oil hot , not just the water showing hot . There will be a lag . If you have a warning saying engine damage coming soon take it seriously , there could be a limiter affecting the revs. At best it could be a faulty gauge , at worst a spun big end or main bearing blocking flow . Hopefully the gauges you have paid for have stopped any damage
OK check the complete fuel system Everything check good But now the check service codes light is on But there are no codes Is there any other systems to check And it has derated to ide only
J
Most likely, you will need diagnostic software to read the code. My money says it will be a 1076.00 Pump Control Valve Closure Too Long. Those specs are minimums. If you have the manual, it states in the procedure you could have as high as 85 psi @ full throttle. The procedure also states that to get an accurate oil pressure reading, the engine oil must reach 220*F. We will worry about that later. Your bigger issue at the moment is the fuel issue.
Thank you all for keeping me from going down the rabbit hole on oil pressure I think I might have figured it out The eingen speed control Is messing up I was doing the old wiggle push and turn test And the speed control was acting up I would put pressure down on the nob And it appears my problems would go away I will pick up a new one tomorrow and let you all know for sure Again thank
OK I replaced the speed dia After a few minutes of running it set code f440 I can not find any information on it But it didn't derate But the sputtering turned in to a full stutter I shut if off for about 30 seconds And it rN like this Should I check the fuel system again
Did everyone give up on me
No. Some of us are busy, or take time off for vacations and do not always have the time to look at the forum daily. If you are in a hurry, then take the machine to your dealer or call road service. So, please be patient. Engine Oil Pressure Input Voltage Low. Has nothing to do with the running issue. With the way that runs I would expect to see some F490 codes. Your serial indicates that your machine is an early J series, so the code reporting could be a little sketchy. If you put pressure (press on) on the outside of the ECU while it is running, does it change the way the engine runs? Can you see the part number of the ECU? Fuel vent clean? Fuel return line clear? Did you test your fuel pressure while running at the fitting shown below? If your fuel pressure is good at idle and high idle, it could be either the fuel injection pump or the ECU. If your fuel pressure is good at idle (good being 5 psi), drops at high idle, and rebounds quickly back to 5 psi when back to idle, you could either have a supply issue or have a fuel injection pump issue. If your fuel pressure is low, or goes low and slow to rebound or not rebound at all, then you have a fuel supply issue. Someone with diagnostic software (Service Advisor) and a fuel gauge could answer this question fairly rapidly. You could also measure the fuel return from the injection pump. Idle spec is 20 oz/min max, high idle spec is 24 oz/min max. Anything in excess of that is an issue.
I will check all that stuff And report back later today I am looking at getting a service advisor Or have a tech come out to check it out i think i am almost at that point And sorry for getting inpatient not in a rush just getting mad at my self that I can't figure it out i normally can especially with all the great help from everyone here Sorry and thanks
Sorry for the major delay just got my dad home from the hospital he had a really bad fall So I am back on it today will report findings later today
OK In between rain today I checked fuel pressure Not running using the hand prim pump 6 psi and holds good On start up pressure drops to about 1 psi at idle And goes negative at high speed So I got a 5 gallon can of disel and hooked it up to the fuel pump inlet It made no difference So I put a electric fuel pump between the gas can and fuel pump and it helped a little kept it from going negative Mind you the electric pump is a small one 3 psi I can check fuel return tomorrow if still needed Any thoughts And thanks again to all of you Master techs
Was the fuel filter changed? A drop to 1 psi at idle and negative off idle tells me you either have a restriction in the suction side, plugged fuel filter (if you are measuring where I said to), debris in the fuel filter fittings or filter head, or a bad transfer pump. The fuel pressure issue will obviously need to be addressed first.
Yes it is a new fuel filter It appears to have a high fuel flow through it I took the fuel filter head apart after Nige Suggested it on the 13th and went through the whole fuel system Just for the he## of it i am going to put a new one on today Is there any reason to check the return fuel flow at this time Or just replace the lift pump And thanks
Try the lift pump first.
Will try to get one today
New pump no change But I am almost positive I found the problem The return line on the injection pump has a pressure regalator in it I pulled it and tested it and guess what it Would not even hold 1/2 psi Going to pick up a new one tomorrow Will let you all know if it works
OK so I went to diesel fuel injection service Talk with a old tech he said he has Talk with the pump manufacturer several times over the years and this pump just needs fuel pressure does not mater as long as it is not starved He said after listening to my video he said pump or computer So I am going to pull the pump tomorrow and have it tested $175 to test it I did replace the regalator it did help with fuel pressure Not bu it did not help the running So I will let you know what I find out in a few days Any thing special I need to know about removing the pump Thanks
Yes, there are two timing pins that need to be installed before removing the pump. One in the flywheel housing to set the engine to TDC (must be #1 cyl TDC) and one in the injection pump. They have to be installed for installing the new pump as well.
Thanks it looks like easy jod
OK just got the rebuilt pump on $1800 And it seems to work perfectly I will put it to work tomorrow Hear is what I learned if it happens again Check fuel pressure If low or negative Pull fuel return line if you got good return flow Stop and pull the injection pump it is more than likely bad Stanadyne de10 rotary pump Thanks for all the help everyone