I have a 2008 John Deere ct332 skid loader. I’m wondering if there is any way to adjust the sensitivity of the electric over hydraulic controls. It’s really hard to make small movements and Percision movement. If I move the handle forward just a tad and let go the machine will roll like 3-4in. I’m in the tree removal buisnesss and just purchased and turbo saw and it requires inching into trees to prevent blade stalling. Is this just the way these machines are? I’ve talked to Deere and they have never worked one before so they have no clue. It’s hard to control movement at full throttle trying to spray a tree stump is quite a challenge. I don’t know anyone with a machine similar local to ask. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Unfortunately that machine does not have creep control like the newer machines. Usually the first thing I recommend with any EH machine issues is to perform a calibration. Sometimes normal wear affects the performance and a calibration makes up for it (see attached).
THAT's some GREAT info. MG.!! THANKS..
That is some handy information. I will try that calibration today thanks a bunch.
do you happen to have the throttle calibration instructions as well? I’m trying to do the hydro cal but it’s not reading rpms for some reason. The rpms are displaying in the gauge read out. But when I try to do the cal it says rpms to low no matter if it’s half throttle or wide open. So I seen a throttle cal in the diagnostic screen so tried that but it’s not reading rpms either to do the calibration. Has me stumped
First you need to make sure your engine rpm's are correct. If they are correct then you may need to perform a throttle position calibration (see attached for both).
Ok got the throttle issue figured out and was able to complete the calibration. Works way better not jerky at all. Really appreciate the help and the info that pointed me in the right direction. Thank you
Interesting. Maybe Deere controls aren't as terrible as I've always thought? I've ran a few with joysticks and have never been impressed.
I think calibration of the hydraulic and hydrostats should be part of the routine maintenance (every 250-500 hrs) but I guess Deere doesn't think so. I see quite a few complaints of jerkiness on Deere EH SSL/CTL's that is remedied most of the time with a calibration. The tricky one is the hydraulic calibration. Sometimes I have to do that one 2-3 times to get it right.
Got another random problem. Just started happening. The park brake will randomly engage while in use. I’ve bypassed the seat switch,seat belt switch, and door open switch and that had solved the problem for quite a while. Still does it for no rhyme or reason. I’ve done some reading are and am led to think the instrument panel is bad. What leads me to think this is sometimes buttons won’t work, I can see the digital display rattleing around on rough ground but the whole assembly is fasten securely behind the panel. It will put hours on the machine even when it’s not running sometimes according to the job counter which I use all the time. Figured I’d ask here before I spend $500 on a new instrument panel.
I attached a couple of items that might help. First check that you have engine rpm in the monitor. Also make sure your engine oil pressure light works. Monitor will not release the park brake without engine rpm and engine oil pressure (5 second delay possible). Make sure your connections in the one instruction sheet are taken care of. Also check the ohms of your park brake and lock out solenoids. If they are borderline low then when hot may be too low and then the monitor sees excessive current and shuts down the park brake. Park Brake solenoid (valve on the right side of frame under seat) = 7-10.5 ohms. Boom Lock and Bucket lock solenoids (on control valve spool caps) = 14.8-18.2 ohms. Port lock solenoid (side of the control valve) = 8.2-9.0 ohms. Check wiring as well because a short to ground can cause that too.
i have an issue with getting my boom and the bucket to work in my ct 322 solenoids pass the clk test and we have power to both of them and the grounds are good when i put machine into run mode. each solenoid has about 17.6 ohms. could the port lock solenoid cause both of these not to work? i had not checked that yet. what does it do? what have i missed. thanks in advance dan
mg2361 , thanks for posting the attachments to download, much appreciated
can you tell me what the throttle issue was? Mine is doing the same thing. Can't do a throttle or drive cal it immediately says calibration failed. Maybe because i have code HCU 91.03? Hyd cal fails because it always says RPM"s too low
Go to the inj. pump and take a 10mm wrench and a screw driver with u.. Turn the screw IN until u like it..
If this was in response to my throttle calibration issue what I'm really trying to do is calibrate the drive controls on my joystick machine but I can't. I'm thinking it has to do with the HCU 91.03 code but I can't find anything on it
Pic of the inj pump please..
Sorry hard to get to break I could get. By chance is this Mike the pump guy?
Here's better
Yes, it’s me Margaret.. It looks like u have a common rail system.. Your pump and injectors are under the valve cover.. right?
I believe so because I can't see them anywhere!
U NEED A MANUAL.!!!
What are you thinking is wrong with the pump? It's an 09 ct332 I can get the diagram.for the pump but not sure what the concern is
U never said WHAT THE FRIGGIN PROBLEM WAS.!! We’re supposed to guess.??
I did! It's part of the thread! I'm getting an error code. I've been trying to calibrate dehydraulic drive system but it tells me that my idle is low. Then I go to calibrate the throttle and it immediately errors out. This all started with me trying to calibrate the hydraulic drive system
Oh.. I’m no help ..
Ok
It will not pass a throttle calibration because of this code. The 91.03 code is the throttle sensor out of range high. You will need to check the signal voltage from the throttle position sensor. It needs to be between 0.5 volts and 4.5 volts. The specifications are 0.65 volts for low idle, and 4.35 volts for fast idle. The sensor is buried behind the alternator IIRC. If the voltage is correct at the sensor, then it will need to be checked at the other end (HCU). If you enter service mode (press and hold menu button for 5 seconds), then scroll to diagnostics, then go to sensors, then throttle position, does the throttle change from 0% to 100% through the range? Regardless, the voltages will need to be checked with that code.
No there is no information on that screen see attached pic. What is the remedy for this issue?
Did you check the voltage as recommended?
No I was not able to get to that today hopefully tomorrow.
Can’t answer the second part without the first.
If this is the correct sensor It is measuring 4.48 volts no matter what the throttle position is. As a note this is with the key on but the engine not running.
That is the engine speed sensor. The throttle sensor may need the alternator removed to access it. Also, voltages should be checked with the connector plugged in and then the meter is backprobed into the connector using a tool like this: Backprobes
Here's the pin out The voltage does not fluctuate much upon low and high throttle
@mg2361 do you have any recommendations on next steps to resolve this? I was thinking it would be a tps replacement but haven't been able to find the part on any drawings!
I assume you are on the white and black wires? Next, move the ground for your meter to the battery negative and check the voltage to the white wire again. If the signal voltage changes as it should, then the black return wire may have an open in it. If the voltage does not change, then unplug the sensor and measure the white wire's voltage. If it is a pull up circuit, it should read 0 volts. If it is a pull down circuit, it should read 5.0 volts. I do not remember if that is a pull up or a pull down circuit. If it measures 5 volts, then unplug the hydraulic controller to see if the voltage drops. If the voltage drops, then your sensor is most likely defective, if it does not, then you may have a short in the harness to another wire causing the white wire to remain at 5 volts.
@mg2361 thank you will give that a go this morning. Any chance you happen to have the part number for that TPS? It's an 09 ct332
Model year does not help. In the equipment world, we need the machine serial number. Fortunately, your machine does not have any serial break for the sensor.
@mg2361 there's no change to the voltage when I measured the white wire to the negative ground. I removed The sensor wire and that voltage on the white wire now measures zero with no change. Bad sensor or open circuit? It appears this bracket that holds the alternator and AC compressor has to come entirely off to replace the tps
If it dropped to zero when unplugged, then confirm the wire is good between the TPS and the controller. If the wire is good, then a new TPS will be needed. If it needs a sensor, the sensor will need to be calibrated. Yep. And be mindful that I think there might be a spacer behind one or two of the bracket bolts that come in from the timing cover side (IIRC, spacers were only used if the timing cover has ever been replaced). Check your messages.
Thank you very much for the assist!
This is some great info. I recently picked up a 2008 CT332 and similarly my hydro propel forward is very jerky. It’s good in reverse & side to side. I went through these steps and came across my TPS only registering at 50% and around 2.5V during diagnostics at full throttle. Because of this, I’m unable to calibrate my max throttle & subsequently my hydro propel. Hoping it may be a easy fix with a new TPS. Any thoughts?
Ultimately what I figured out from mine is it was just out of adjustment. Mechanical adjustment not electrical. I did end up replacing it anyway while I was in there. It's kind of a pain in the ass to get to if you have an AC you've got to pull the compressor but other than that pretty straightforward
Makes sense, can’t get it rev over 2100rpm (according to the digital tachometer) but it sounds like it’s closer to 3000rpm may just be out of whack. l’m assuming it’s just a cable to the injection pump that you tightened up? If my throttle is actually at 3000rpm while the tach reading only 2100 I’m willing to bet it’s a TPS. Ironically also have a code being thrown 920.05 (low voltage to EMU) but during EMU diagnostic everything checked out…. TPS seems to be only element out of spec right now
Ended up having to adjust linkages at the TPS sensor, the hand throttle & the foot throttle stop to get it to rev up to 100% according to the TPS. Still having issues calibrating the TPS as it still always saying RPM idle too low even at full throttle. Ran a diagnostic of the rest of the EMU voltages and everything checks out to include the TPS. Wonder if the JD software can reboot the ECU and then calibrate directly.
Run the RPM calibration first
Tried running the throttle calibration still saying RPMS too low even after regaining full 100% throttle range
What does the rpm read in the instrument panel, both at low idle and fast idle, engine at operating temperature?
Can get the throttle anywhere between 1250 at idle to 2850 at full throttle. Yes temps are good. Dash would show alarm if not at temp
Bump low idle up to 1300 and try the calibration again.
can’t get it to calibrate regardless of RPM, have tried it all so far
Did you check voltages as mentioned in post #29 with a voltmeter?
I’m able to see the TPS voltage right from the service mode screen, have not measured it directly with voltmeter but the voltage is correct according to the dash - i have a code being thrown for low voltage to EMU & Glow plug relay not operational. Thinking the problem is something to do with the EMU. Have yet to find the issue there as service mode in the dash allows me to see all the sensor voltages which are registering as normal.
Check your messages.
If this is the tach in the monitor, it does not come from the TPS. The tachometer in the monitor gets its signal from the alternator (if you have mechanical levers), or the HCU via a speed sensor (if you have an EH machine). If the EMU thinks you are only at 2100 rpm, then it will not calibrate. Post up the machine serial number.
I have a 333G and hate everything about it, but especially the overly touchy controls.
A calibration might fix that. Or the charge pressure is set too high, but more than likely the calibration would solve that, if done right.