I'm somewhat new to this equipment thing as this is only the second machine I've owned. Machine is a Takeuchi TL 26 with 3200 hours on it. It has hydraulic pilot controls (short joysticks). The machine doesn't want to turn to the left sometimes. If you play with the joystick a bit it will go but it takes some getting used to. I purchased this machine off of a friend and I know for a fact it has had this issue for 500+ hours. I'm thinking the joystick valve assembly needs replaced. Your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I forgot to add all rollers and idlers are in good shape and not binding. Machine tracks straight forward and backward. All filters were just changed. I really don't think this is a drive motor going bad because it had been doing it so long.
i would guess its in the joystick but i also had a tl150 that acted the same way and the bolt which neutralizes the pump connected to the servo piston was snapped
zf, can you tell me more about this bolt. How do I access it? Is it in plain sight? Its probably something to check before I dump $800 into a joystick valve.
to fix it you have to take the pump apart this bolt sticks out the side of the pump maybe 1/2 inch with a lock nut now it could be turned towards the bottom of the machine or the side one side should have two bolts sticking out the other only one the one you want the side with one bolt see if thats how the pumps look i didnt work on a tl126 lately thats how the tl130 is
Thanks zf. I'll check it this evening after work.
i am having that issue with a TL150. after traveling straight forward, you release the joystick to stop and the machine keeps making right turns till you wiggle the stick. when reversing it will stop and not keep turning. just forward has these issues. i have checked the little plungers under the joystick, they all move free and do not stick. which make me think it is in the pump. i have looked for this bolt you mentioned and can not find it. also i keep having the 2 bolts that hold the pump assy to the bellhousing snap the heads off. i cant figure out why it keeps breaking these bolts.
the bolts your looking for do not have a hex on the outside all you see is the threaded part sticks out about half inch with a lock nut but remember you cant see the broken bolt its on the inside of the pump and on a tl150 that bolt faces the ground should be one on either pump with one smaller one right beside it
ahh ok. guess it doesnt matter now, bossman is sending it to the dealer. we also keep having issues with the 2 cap screws that hold the pump assy to the bell. they are going to look it all over.
Let us know what the dealer comes up with. I'm curious.
you might spend a fortune
doesnt matter to me, put my 2 week notice in yesterday. haha. but i will find out what is wrong and will let you guys know.
Wanted to let everyone know I tried the snapped bolt thing in the pump and it wasn't it. I also replaced the joystick valve with a new one and that didn't do it. Maybe there is something in the final drive planetaries jamming things up every now and then?
KOENIG, did you ever figure out what the problem was? My mechanic tells me I need a new Left side Pilot Valve and it's about $800...my TL26 is having a similar problem with zero pressure getting over to the left track so I can only go in circles. Thanks, MJ
same problem I have the same problem my tl26 drives only on the right side. I get nothing in forward or reverse even with the track off. Took the wheel motor off and found nothing wrong. The previous owner said they went to move it one morning and it started to move then quit and hasn't tried to move since...the brake releases when the motor is running, but no go in either direction. Anyone got any ideas?
Start pressure testing from the joystick/pilot valva on down the line. It turns out replacing my pilot valve got me from 0 to 1200psi, but still need 4000 total, so went on down the line and having to have hydrostat rebuilt now.
To diagnose swap the pilot control valves. This is a closed loop system. The gear pump provides pilot pressure which goes through the joystick then controls the swash plate on the pump. If there are contaminants or damage in the pump controls you WILL have problems. If the fluid is fairly clean and the machine does have have insane hours you should NOT need a rotary group but just a reseal and pump control repair (done out of machine, obviously and sadly)
ok thanks mike, I'll try swapping the lines for the pilot when I get the new seal kit for the wheel motor and get it installed. This machine has 6400 hrs on it. I think you are saying that if I swap pilot control valves and still have nothing I should remove the pump. Do you know if I need to move the motor back to get clearance to remove the pumps? Also, is the pump complicated to work on and need special tools or would it be plausable to work on it in my shop?
WOW. Thats alot of hours for a "wanna be dozer". Yes, that is what I am saying, swap them over. The problem is the pump controls are sort of a one way. Get any contaminants in there they never really leave the servo piston and valve area unless they are small enough to bleed out. If the pump is worn you HAVE to take the motor out to as all the debris from that pump will have ran through the motor. Flush flush flush
Have to take the hydraulic motor out also. I know nothing of the engine. sorry
Thanks Mike, I just got the new seals yesterday and installed the wheel motor today. We swapped the pilot hoses and no luck, the right side still the only side running. We did some pressure testing and the right side has about 500 psi to run the track while it is jacked up. If we stall the sprocket with a pipe it will go up to around 5500 psi. The left side which never moves develops about 3500 psi. The hoses to the left wheel motor jump like the fluid is deadheaded somewhere. The final drive is free when the engine is running, so the brake is releasing. Also, when the left side is engaged the engine pulls down and will kill if pushed too hard. If the swash valve is not moving, will it make the fluid deadhead against the hoses? Confused... Don't want to pull the pump if it won't solve the problem, will do it with pleasure if it will get it fixed! Thanks for the help!
I know you said you saw nothing wrong with the motor. But that doesn't make sense to me. The pump is developing some pressure and flow if the hoses are kinking and you have 3500psi. That figure is low like you say. I would loop the circuit off the pump. As in put a single hose from outlet to outlet on the pump, bypassing the motor, eliminating it out of the circuit. At the same time if the motor is loading with the stick barely touching it may have some big problems inside. Was there any metal in the oil? I dont know about a machine that age but there should be a torque limiter on the pump that will prevent it from overloading. So, I would bypass the motor, that should be easy to do. When the problem still remains pull the pump
Thanks for the reply! That sounds like an excellent idea to rule out the wheel motor. I have to agree that when the fluid seems to be deadheaded and the hoses were flexing with pressure the wheel motor seemed to be the logical choice for a problem. I'll try the hose on the pump tomorrow. Thanks again, you have been very helpful and knowledgable. Hope I can get this thing figured out. I know that your input has been a very big help!
Sounds like a failing drive motor to me.
We found the problem! We spent the whole day at it, but finally found the problem... It seems that I was given misinformation about how the machine quit working. Evidently someone was into the drive motor before it quit working. We found nothing wrong with it, so we put it back together the way we took it apart. The backing plate for the wedge can be put on any one of 4 ways. We had marked it, but had reservations about how it was clocked, so we called our dealer who in turn called Tacheuchi to see if they could tell us how it should be installed. They (Tacheuchi Tech) said we were the fourth one who had called in the last two weeks about this. Then he told us that it didn't matter how it is timed on the TL26. After looping the outputs of the pump and having no resistance, we plumbed the wheel motor to my tractor and tried to run it with the hydraulics. It still deadheaded. So the problem is definately in the wheel motor. We removed the wheel motor again and still could find nothing wrong. So we clocked the plate 90 degrees and put it back on the machine. GUESS WHAT... It works perfectly! Someone had it apart and didn't put it together correctly. The three other people who called Tacheuchi are hopefully luckier than we were and didn't have to put as much time into figuring it out. Maybe they hit it on the first try. I am going to call the dealer tomorrow and let them know that they need to inform tech services of their mistake. The motor should have been made so that it would only fit one way. Well thanks for all the help Mike, at least we didn't pull the pump out to find nothing...
Theres no feeling like getting a big turd moving again LOL
Especially when it doesn't cost an arm and both legs! I feel prety lucky not to have to spend alot on this one! Just made me pull my hair out for a while, what's life without a good challenge every now and then, right?
All that matters is its running! :woohoo
Hello. I beleive I have the same problem. I have no issues with forward on both sides. Left reverse no issues. Right reverse doesnt work sometimes after sitting. After playing with the joystick (forward/reverse) it starts to work. then it works with no issues. does that sound like your problem other than it being forward on one side? if so, what was your final fix to cure the problem
Stopping Issues on TL140. Hi TrueLine, did you ever find out what was the cause/issue on your TL150? I have TL140 that has exactly same issue as your TL150 except that it turns to left instead of right. I would really appreciate your input on this; trying to avoid pulling gear pump out if it's not the root cause.
has anyone had any luck with the tl10v2 issue with it keeps turning right after the joystick is center after traveling straight