Well I am posting abut couplers again, hard to believe right! Not! Anyway, I located a used JRB that is very cheep($750.00, fits my 690elc), and in good shape, but it has a hyd cylinder in it. So I guess this is a hyd coupler? The owner does not have the HYD kit to run it, so now what? Any way to run this thing in manual mode? I do not have aux hyd on my machine either. I just never been arround one with a cylinder in it, and have no clue. I did not purchase the last coupler that I posted about, due to the good advice that I got here. Thanks!
A friend of mine runs 330d's and hates the cat's hyd coupler... He has changed the hyd fittings/hoses from material pinching it. But then again it could be operator abuse aswell... If I were you I would look for a manuel coupler... Or build one...
I posted a pic below. Someone on here has to hava a coupler like this. What do I need to make it run? Thanks!
another try
Well in the cat's its a little switch... They run small 1/4 or 5/16 hose to it. So some piping and a control valve... It would be hard to rig it up redneck style... Could probably do it for under 500.oo To make it fancy you would have to buy a elec valve (24volt), It would be very simple to plumb. A nice rainy day project... I would think it would be cheaper to make that manuel Tho... Hope this helps
If you plan on changing buckets often go with the hydrlic (sp) To set one up is a relitivly easy task, and well worth it in my opinion.
want to sell it?
Anyone have pics of the lines, or have exp on setting this up? How many hyd lines will it need, and where do they plumb into on the machine? Dayexco, if I do not buy it, I will pass it along to you. But I thing I am going to try to make it work some how.
Make note of the this picture and you can see how the lines are set up. The muddy one is one that I had at my rental yard (back when I worked for them) and the nice clean one with a short stick in the snow is one I found for sale in my area. Blake WA
Thanks for the pics! I think I could manage that part with a couple 3/8 hoses. Anyonw know where it taps into on the machine?
JR Coupler deeredriver, Some times taping into the machines hyd. system is a major head ache. I put a hydraulic system on a one tone pickup years ago, to operate a trailer I used to move hay stacks...the " bread loaf " type; ours was a John Deere, but Heston made a similar machine. I used a belt driven pump with an electric clutch, so I could turn it off. I needed three functions... so therefor, three remote valves. I fabricated all the brackets, and used an air tank from a truck for the reservoir. Worked great, never had a bit of a problem. I think you only need one function though, so you might consider something like an electric power pack... used a lot for snow plows on pickups, and fairly self contained. I did actually see this set up on an older Cat 966, used for a bucket quick-tach... basically same application as yours... OCR
BTW, that is a good looking excavator. How do you like it?
The power packs are a pain, All of the good ones use a electric control valve on the push side of the bucket cylinder. You flip the switch, curl the bucket to release the lock when the switch is actavated. You are able to release the bucket, when the swich is in the normal position it keeps the coupler tight. It is realy simple and a cost efective set up.
I was wondering if I could not do somenthing like that. Who sells a kit to do that? Thanks!
My last 3 ducks have had Miller Hyd hitches and are a brilliant item. I will photo the valve and try and find the paperwork that shows fitting. Basically you need an electomagnetic 4 port valve block. I am not a hyd specilaist ( it confuses the hell out of me ) My understanding of the layout is electic to/from switch in cab ( power from doh! ) 1 port from a constant source of hyd pressure, VERY IMPORTANT 1 port return to tank / relief 1 port to ram pressure lock / close 1 port to ram release / unlock. Activation of the switch changes the feed so pressure goes to open the ram. Close the switch the pressure closes the ram. Semi automatic hyd hitches have a safety pin and it MUST BE USED! Fully auto hitches have a built in set of weights ( on the ones I have seen ) and unless the bucket is completely closed and the dipper pulled in close BEFORE activation of the switch, the weights foul the ram to stop it opening. You only need small bore pipework, but a lot of it twice distance from valve position to hitch ( length of boom & stick) plus from valve to tank and valve to source. Use a locking or covered switch in cab for safety. Fit joints / connectors in pipework approx 12" above bucket top link, as below this is the bit you WILL replace, and its cheaper to do that than whole length of pipe :Banghead Fit braided wire pipe protection on this section also for extra protection. Hope this nelps, and will get pics tonight. Just looked at that pic again and cannot see a safety pin hole, so guess it is fully auto. You need to check and satisfy yourself of its safety device ( if a pipe blows or you get an electric short what stops the ram opening and dropping the bucket ) Another thought, when switch is activated it activates an audible alarm ( bloody annoying ) but I suspect a LEGAL req in UK. Dont know about there, but recommended.
If you're talking to me (which I'm not sure) unfortunately those are not mine...yet. :cool2 However, they ran great! If you were talking to me you can ask more questions, otherwise I'll save people the reading just in case you weren't. LOL
coopers, I thought I was talking to deeredriver about his coupler, and for some reason, I also thought the excavator in the snow was his...not unusual for me to get... I was also so proud of myself in the spiel about the pickup hyd. system, I used the word tone instead of ton... I don't think you need worry about that... I would think most people are here to read... in fact, if I spent more time reading, maybe I wouldn't get... ... and... ... Ya' think?... ... OCR
Okay. :drinkup
semi-auto Just looked at that photo again and I think there is a locking pin in rear inside left corner ( of photo )that drops down to engage in tounge on ram. Heres shematic drawing from Millers instuction manual and a couple pics of valve and pipework on machine. Sorry I should have cleaned the pipework as the colour coding they use in the book is still on the pipes if you look closely. Yellow top right, Blue under it, Red top left, Green under it. Electro magnetic connector on top. Try and ignore other pipes and cables passing behind, they are just to confuse you
deeredriver - I work for Miller in the US and will be happy to help. The JRB you are looking at uses pilot pressure instead of full machine pressure. Atlas Rob has Miller couplers and is used to a full machine positive locking pressure. You can order a kit for the JRB from JRB or from HCT, Hydraulic Circuit Technology out of Atlanta. That is a fantastic price for the JRB as long as it has been completely refurbished. Be aware that the cylinder needs to be in top notch shape since that is the active locking mechanism. There is a check valve on the machine to prevent loss of hydraulic pressure. Please be cautious. A couper is only as good as the least knowledgable, unsure, untrained operator that works for you.
Goat, You sure about a coupler using pilot pressure only and also relying on a check valve to maintain pressure in the locking cyclinder?. I am not familiar with the specifics of different manufactures setups but no check valve will seal 100%. With time and constant load, oil will seep past it causing the locking cyclinder to slowly open. It would seem better to me to have a valve in its normal or usual position supplying full hydraulic pressure to the locking cyclinder. This will eliminate the problem of hydraulic creep in the cyclinder and develop a much bigger locking force. This is the way I would expect a machine to be set up and I think this is the way the schematic earlier in this thread is showing the system in the Terex machine although I cannot be sure without the actual valve schmatic. I am not saying you are wrong, but it would be imperative to be absolutely sure that the manufactures guidelines were followed precisely. If a hitch was only rated for pilot pressure and was connected to full system pressure you would almost certainly get hydraulic component bursting and/or mechancal damage to the hitch. Conversly, if the hitch is designed for full system pressure and only connected to pilot pressure you might get the hitch opening under load.
Had some time to thing about it and now realise the likely solution if using a check valve and pilot pressure only. I think you would still have to supply constant pressure to the check valve to eliminate hydraulic creep in the hitch cyclinder but the system pressure is not that important as the check valve will operate to keep the cyclinder closed when the claw in the hitch has a load applied to it. Such a system could be designed to work with either pilot pressure or full system pressure. Important to realise that in some bucket postions the claw will act on the cyclinder causing it to develop high hydraulic pressure back as far as the check valve. All components back as far as the check valve should therefore be high pressure rated even if the check valve is feed only with pilot pressure.
:iagree That would make sense... Looks like you have alot od plumbing ahead of you... Let us know how you make out...
While I do not intend to try to scare you, DO NOT CUT to short cuts with a coupler!! You will kill someone! The JRB coupler uses a two position control valve that gets it's oil from a sandwich block at the base of the bucket cylinder. Usually, unless on a factory installed Kobelco, the valve is on the arm. Lifting the bucket and stalling at full curl in provides the pressure to lock and unlock. The electrical control unit is in the cab. I really really do not like lawyers and like even less an accident. Go to JRB and they can provide the installation kit, controls, and manual. JRB DOES NOT USE PILOT PRESSURE. IT MUST have high pressure oil.
well said, and i WHOLEHEARTEDLY agree!!!:thumbsup
x2.. on a 115 a full kit installed is 5200$ (last year on our latest machine)
Wow, this is the price for the JRB kit through the local dealer. $1923.90 Kit+$50Shipping+$143.11tax=$2117.01 All this for a couple short hoses, valve, selenoid, wiring and switch. This coupler uses pressure from the bucket cylinder. I am now working with HCT from atlanta on getting a price.
Deeredriver Never mind who I am, but not a lawyer. I have been in numerous legal actions concerning construction machinery over the years and not just one involving couplers. My STRONG advice to you is to use the JRB system for a JRB coupler, including the instruction manual, which MUST remain in the machine at ALL TIMES. Couplers,,all of them..have been involved in numerous accidents causing severe and perminante injuries and death. VERY few are the fault of the coupler, but equipment failure and operator error are the major contributing cause, even YEARS after installation. The control system is a SAFETY issue and system. If you 'Will fit" it with someone else's system and have an accident, for whatever reason, you will look bad in a court by saving money. You WILL be accused of causing directly or indirectly, an accident by some "Expert Witness" who has never seen or operated a coupler, but is paid to tell you and an inexperienced jury how negligent you were and are. My two cents and will now shut up.