Hey guys. I have a few questions about jump starting. It is inevitable that one of us is going to leave the insulator on in our hydrema 912d As far as I know these run 2 12v batteries in series to create a 24v system. My question is how do I go about jump starting one of these if all I have is my ute which runs a fairly small 12 v battery. I've been told it is possible but don't want to start connecting cables. Also will I need some heavy duty jumper leads. My current ones are not rated for anything bigger than an SUV or large ute. Even then they get mighty hot. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to electricity. The **** scares me lol
Connect the pos and neg clamps to their respective terminals on one battery, do not connect to frame ground on the machine, then connect cables to your truck battery. Charge that battery for a spell with your booster vehicle. Then move your cables to the other machine battery, again, connect to pos and neg terminals, do not connect to frame ground. Charge that battery for a spell and see if machine will fire off. If not, repeat process. If you still don't get good results, you likely have a failed battery that's impeding starting the machine.
In addition to willie's post,,, becareful not to put your face around those batteries when hooking and unhooking.... those things can and will blowup..... just for safety's sake.
grandpa, Excellent point! I did have a battery blow up in my face about 35 years ago at age 14. I was holding one end of cables and the Mechanic was holding other end, He dropped his end while I was hooking up my end of cables. Boom she went, thank God he knew to wash my eyes out (puddle on job site) for 10 minutes. Went to hospital and doctor said Mechanic saved my eye site by acting quickly. Ever since then I only allow one person to handle cables.
Yes sir!!! I had one blow up beside me about 40 years ago.... the stain is still in them long johns
And also why I stress "do not connect neg clamp to frame ground" on machine being boosted. If you do that, and happen to have the pos clamp on the "master positive" of the machine, you're now connected to 24V and could do some damage to boosting vehicle and/or its battery.
I will just add one thing, after seeing a battery blow up in a young man's face I always make the last connection to a ground away from the battery. If I have had a brain fart and connected one of the cables incorrectly, at least the majority of the spark is away from the battery, and I am as well. I probably should not have added that here regarding jumping a 24V system as Willie has correctly described NOT to hook to anything but the battery terminals on the 24V machine. But if one hooks the cables to the 24V machine (the + and - of only one battery) and then hooks to the 12V vehicle attaching the negative to ground away from the battery, one has added just a bit of added safety. For those that are not aware, batteries hooked parallel are positive to positive and negative to negative resulting in 12 volt if they are 12 volt batteries. Batteries hooked in series are; ground to negative on first battery - positive of first battery to negative of second battery - positive of second battery to power (starter etc.) resulting in 24V if each battery is twelve. Many pieces of equipment (perhaps most) these days use four 12V batteries. They are wired in sets of two, i.e. two batteries hooked in series to create 24V, and the other two hooked in series to create 24V, but the negative of each set are hooked to ground, and the positives of each set are hooked to power, resulting still in 24V. This ofcourse assumes that the machine is a negative ground system, as opposed to a positve ground system like my old Ferguson tractor has. Crap, now I have really made Willie's simple, concise, and coherent instructions clear as mud. I defer to you Willie! One final thought, make sure that the vehicle needed a jump (jumpee) and the vehicle doing the jumping (jumper) are NOT touching each other.
And we haven't mentioned 6V batteries either Oxbow.
Add me to the list of battery in face survivors. Thanks to sunglasses and a water tap nearby. No thanks to the driver who told me his truck was 24v when he didn't know. Would love to hear from someone who knows better, but these days we have to protect the computer in the live vehicle when jump starting another one. To the best of my knowledge, this applies when recharging has failed, and you are using the good vehicle as a booster. In this case it would be the 12v unit connected to one battery of the 24v unit. Connect the jumperleads with all ignitions off. Start the engine of the servicable vehicle. Start the dead unit (you hope). Turn on as much as you can in the unit you just got going (headlights, heaters, fans). Disconnect the jumper leads in the reverse order of the what Willie said. This apparently prevents spikes that can wreck the ECU of your car/ute.
Love the comments at this thread, it has produced some good stuff. And I'll add this, anytime you're going to remove or install a battery, always disconnect the negative first for removal, and connect the negative last for install, this minimizes risk of arcing from a wrench contacting machine frame.
You bet! I just have to qualify that for you though Mate. We have been plagued here over the years with (usually older English) (how nice am I?) stuff that has Pos earth. Even ran across a particular brand of Lorrie that had everything live, and the earth was switched. Showing my age now!
Old KWs here had switched grounds, could really mess up your mind. English stuff, some old farm stuff, and the first Japanese trucks to hit here were the positive ground stuff I remember.
LoL, showing my age as well, some of the old Mack trucks were positive ground/earth. Almost sounds messed up talking about the concept, not to mention what it would do to your head when troubleshooting. :tong
Thanks Mitch. Didn't know if anyone would believe me! Now I know where my mind wint !:tong
I seem to vaguely recall some John Deere farm tractors may have used 9 volt batteries. We haven't mentioned series/parallel switches that were popular through the seventies? Where the vehicle ran on 12V but started using 24V. I remember that on a big cam I (cummins) there was a cap on the end of the s/p switch that, if you were having trouble with the switch you could unscrew the cap and manually push in on the plunger to activate the starter. I understand how this looks on a schematic, but have no idea how it was actually accomplished in the s/p switch. I guess I am showing may age as well. I have also spent a fair amount of time on loaders where one battery was on the left rear, and the other on the right rear, figuring out which was the second battery of the series so that we could jump from 24V to 24V by attaching the positive lead of the cables to the second positive of each vehicle and the negative lead to ground/earth of each. MadMitch, you probably now know more than you ever wanted to know!
Yeah... Ever get to put a new Parallel switch on a Mack, that SOMEBODY else took the old one off of??? NOT FUN when you're about 16 years old and don't really understand how the whole screwed up system works to begin with... We had a '69 and '71 R600 winch tractor that had them, then a '72 R700 and a '73 R600 dumptrucks with it. We had a '68 also, but that was before I started messing with them. I finally had the '72 converted to 12 volt negative ground so I could put a radio, cb and air conditioner in it easily.
if one has 2 12 volt vehicles and 2 sets of jumper cables one can hook the batteries the same way. each vehicle to a separate battery and get 24 volts to crank the truck. but be careful dont let either vehicle touch the one being boosted. wont be fun.
OR let the vehicles touch each other if they're hooked up this way. I was thinking the same thing with three individual cables, but didn't want to add any more confusion or acid in the face (once is enough, the acid that is, we all have plenty more confusion to look forward to). Just don't ask me how many jumper cables you'd need to use four batteries to jump.
We use two 12's all the time on the yard. I know it is not the proper way but, my miller 225 has a d/c side on the switch that put out 32 volts or less. This makes the 24's start real quick. When you are in a bind, the dialed down 17 volts will start your service truck too.