Hey guys! I am relatively new to heavy equipment but am accumulating a lot of it (D6 dozer, Prentice 2864 skid steer, 11K excavator, tractors, etc.) I haven't needed jumper cables much but with the cold have some recently. I think I likely have your typical consumer car/truck jumper cables. I need to buy something more heavy duty. I was thinking I would get a quality 1 gauge cable. What brands do you guys recommend? Cost is not an issue--I want the absolute best. Thanks so much!
Bigger is better.... I usually carry a coupe different sets, a good old pure copper 1 gauge ~12foot set that is great for machines that you can get close to and a newer 30' 1 gauge set(chinese) Just remember pretty much all the newer stuff that is imported will be CCA (copper clad aluminum) even when they say it's copper! unless you pay a lot any time some hands me a set of jumpers to use I instantly know if they're crap or not by the weight. I don't have any experience with the current high end brands but I can tell you I thought the ends were pretty cheezy on a set they had at the local parts store for 150 bucks... even if you have decent wires if the ends can't handle the current then they are pretty much worthless if you're in a hurry.
I got a set from my local Napa. Had to order them from catalog. They are copper and 20' long. They work very well. good current flow. Cost around $120 I think.
Cheaper to buy welder lead from a welding supply and jumper cable clamps at auto parts store and you can make them the length you want. Solder the lugs to the cable ends and use heavy duty zip ties to hold the cables together or rubber tape about every 2 feet. Mike
I saw a set on Northern tool email but I didn't like the ends.. Look up a "cable" place in your area.. They'll make-em.. We used them for ALL our replacement cables on Govt jobs.. bring in the old & pick up the NEW. Cant remember the name of the place but I'm sure there are plenty around..
Will second this - I've got an old pair of Snap-on jumps that are heavy copper, the other 3 around here are all welding cable with soldered lugs. I use the heavy electrical 3:1 shrink wrap 24" O/C to bind the 2 cables together. They get stashed in those plastic ammo boxes to keep from getting damaged rattling around in the saddle or tool boxes.
Welding cable is finer strand and more flexible than most commercial booster cables. The most important part is having a good connection of the clamps to the cables. I wish they made hammer lug connection booster cable clamps or clamps that attach with a set screw like welding ground clamps. A lot of booster cable clamps don't have a good enough connection to allow the full current the cable can carry. No sense having large cable if you clamps can carry the same current.
Here is a pic of what I see on most of the jumpers these days: 100 percent steel( or whatever passes for it in china) construction... including the teeth... yeah they have a pretty copper plating on it but a magnet still sticks to it real good, also no webbing shunt between the jaws so you basically get one tooth with a real connection the the wire albeit a copper plated steel end terminal riveted to a copper plated steel tooth. Here is a pic of one of my old sets with heavy copper teeth, real copper wire, webbing shunts between the two teeth so each one get full current and even built in spring wire reliefs: The only downside to these is they aren't real good at biting onto side terminal batteries, so usually find somewhere else to grab if possible.
Hands down best way is welding cable and the absolute best ends you can buy. Really pay attention to how the cable attaches to the clamp. The more secure and the more contact surface area the better. I have a set about 35' long that are almost too heavy to carry, 1/0 I think. My jump start setup will swing over 600 amps and you'd never know by touching the cables or the clamps unless I've really been grinding to get something busted off. Nothin pisses me off more than a set of cables that won't work or have so much resistance in the clamps you brand your hand when you go to remove them after jumping a machine.
Iffn I were starting over, I would install something like this: httpswww.awdirect.com/lexan-plug-jump-start-set-safe-t-connect-500-amp-clamps-25-superior-signals-stc254/jump-start-sets/?gclid=CjwKCAiApdPRBRAdEiwA84bo34p7TlrWQkANsQlr422FY-VEzmNWlB1F1Wugl4n62S_Xr5f-m2BApRoCNkEQAvD_BwE&epc=AWSEPLA&CID=AWSEPLA&s_kwcid=AL!3210!3!52661717358!!!g!153841727838!&ef_id=UrtdLAAAAY0GZWCv:20171217010659:s on the jump vehicle. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the battery connections, not to mention hood hardware... I think you can also get the quick connects separately, and use welding cable, if you want to do it yourself... On edit, link didn't work, so copy and paste, or do a search...
I don't even need to look at it to know what it is . Cheapest place for the connectors so you can build cables etc is Amazon. They make 3 different sizes. We use the middle size on race cars so we can swap batteries quick or plug in a charger quick as well. Middle is about the size of a pack of smokes. On the big iron we use the largest size, they're not much bigger physically but there is quite a bit more contact surface area and they'll accept larger cable. Handy as a pocket on each side of your shirt
Junkyard, Its good to see someone else wears 2 pocket shirts, too...
Yeah!!! I love the anderson connectors, used them for wiring up receiver winches. Always meant to make a setup for the jumper cables... but never actually did get a round tuit.
I buy them a dozen at a time....which reminds me. I only have one....and I need to replace some cable ends anyway. I had Clark Griswold moment yesterday trying to jump my skytrack with my crummy. Cables had laid around long enough the rivet holding terminal to clamp was sloppy. If I held my mouth right they'd charge. If not, nothin. I just about balled them up and threw them as far as I could and wouldn't you know it the trusty little Perkins went ahead and busted off. It was truly a heartbeat away from a full blown temper tantrum my 3 year old would have been proud of!!
Mine even have my name on them. Although it's always backwards when I look at it.......hmmmm
I totally agree that welding cable & Andersen SB50 quick connectors are the way to go, & make your own cables. Solder clamp ends & Andersons on a 3' cable, use cable & Andersons on any length "extension" cable you want. Here are 2 links that I've found for good sources for Andersens & cable: http://www.bestboatwire.com/quick-connect-plugs https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors
What about jump boxes? Thats what I have been using for a couple years now. Can also be used for different things too.
Jumper boxes are OK and extremely handy to have around but are nothing like a good set of cables to get something started
I found a set of cables 25' long made of welding lead in, of all places, our local landfill. Had some cheesy alligator clips. I bought lugs and good clamps, soldered the lugs to the cables and good to go!! Mike
So, don't laugh too hard, but I am fairly new to a lot of stuff that is basic to you guys so I am not up for soldering my own clamps and making my own cables. Does anywhere out there make something of that quality? There seems to a be a unanimous opinion that is the best way to go, so seems like someone out there would be making cables like that and selling them (if not, I just gave one of you a free idea for a great business opportunity!) As for jump packs, I would like to get one of those as well. I have a Schumacher PSJ 4424, which is a pretty nice pack that has both 12 and 24V. However, on my larger machines (D6N dozer, Prentice 2864) I still don't feel like that is a enough power. I bought that pack specifically to start big machines since it is obviously overkill for a regular car. It has always done fine on my skid steer and 11K pound excavator but when I have tried it on the bigger machines it hasn't done the job as well. Should that pack be adequate? If not, what would you guys recommend as a portable jumper pack? I do have a very nice Rizk National battery charger (I have a H624; http://www.usabatterychargers.com/H624.htm ). I believe that is also a jump starter and would likely do the job (obviously never used it for that purpose). The only downside to that is it has to be plugged in so isn't as portable as a starter pack or truck with a battery I can hook to.
Not hard to do at all. Perhaps I'll make a video. Have a set sitting around that needs the ends reworked. Heck I'd build you some, I'm sure somebody else on here would as well. There are ready made sets but usually I can build them cheaper, heavier cable and the length I want.
Thanks so much! I would definitely be up for covering costs and some profit to have someone make me a great set. I would love to learn, just don't want to screw something up when I am dealing with that much current and putting my hands on it! I grew up on a small farm and love working with my hands, heavy equipment, etc. but don't have a ton of experience--I try to "know what I do not know" so I can avoid being the stupid guy who hurt himself doing something he was ignorant on. I have never soldered or welded before, although I did get a welder and am getting ready to start learning that skill. I would love to learn all that stuff but just don't know how to do it right now. I now have a skid steer, excavator, D6 dozer, Prentice 2864, and a monster truck so I have most self taught myself (lots of questions, google, YouTube, and books) how to drive big machines and how to haul things, but the process is slow learning since I do not do anything related to heavy equipment, hauling, welding, etc. for a living. I did find these: https://www.forneyind.com/products/battery-jumper-cables--2-x-25 which seem to be what you guys are talking about. I assume #2 wire is 2 gauge--not sure why they don't make a 1 gauge set. How much does the wire and clamps cost if you are making your own? I do have a friend who is a great welder, heavy equipment and handy guy who I am certain could make me some if I got him the materials. I am very appreciative of you guys tolerating my ignorance and helping me learn!
Rizk National has a 20ft cable that's all copper. $81
If you don't wanna do it yourself, a good rebuild place fer alternators and starters will likely have everything except the connectors, and may not be too expensive, if they use crimp on ends... Here is what I use fer copper ends, like you use on welders: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-El...HGngRGZ94hRsQXa6_-vuzIFw4LqaJUTYaAqBwEALw_wcB I think the connector uses set screws, so you don't have to worry about soldering. Just use heat shrink insulation, slide on cable before crimping the ends on... If I can do it, anybody can...
I saw that Rizk National had cables for a very affordable price. However, I saw that they are 4 gauge. Is that heavy enough? Is 1 gauge necessary or way overkill?
The gauge will be a function of length and desired amperage capacity just like welding leads. Within reason they can't be too big. 1 gauge would be sufficient for anything you'd do providing they're not 50' long (even then you'd be ok). I built mine with what I had, 1/0 I believe. I've got some 4/0 if you want some REAL cables
I always think low voltage is hard on a starter so I like to have double available cranking amps and double the conductor. I made a set of 2/0 welding cable copper lugs welded nuts to vise grips and they will flow. can start 3408 or 3406 with two 4ds 20 foot away. the vise grips are a pain will switch them to welding ground clamps someday but they flow... Cat sells a good set but $500 is out of my budget can build for about half. Also have a set of freightprides about $150 work got for boosting 12vs and clamps will only flow so much and keeps them from smoking lol
For what you are doing I would use #1 or even 1/0.
I have a set made from #2 welding cable, with 800A clamps. They are 80" in length. 6 rolls of black plastic tape along the complete length tying them together and they work great. the only thing I would have done different was to have a set of 90 degree clamps on one end. vs. straight on both ends. They are heavy, bu the reach is worth it. It is amazing how fast 80' of jumper cable can be eaten up around equipment. I just crimped lugs on the ends, that makes it easy if I need to lug one end to a battery due to confined space.
Northern Tool has a set ON SALE>> #2, 20ft long CHEAP.. $20.00 !!!
^^ Yep, CCA wires= Aluminum They will work just can't get the amps through them like real copper wires... but a whole lot cheaper also
The first rule of jumper cables is the clamps are half the connection, or is it all the connection? copper jaws with a jumper and all soldered ideally. The second rule is that length increases voltage drop. The gauge and length are proportional, long cables need to be big gauge. 12 or 24 volts don't have much room for voltage drop and still help out any. To cut the voltage drop in half, double the size of the cable, or cut the length in half. That means to keep the voltage drop the same, doubling the length requires doubling the size of the cable (cross section). The other factor is what do you expect to do with the cables? Start a big engine with dead frozen batteries at zero from 30' away? or start an engine that cranked but didn't start for whatever reason and now cranks too slow because the batteries are ten years old and it's the coldest day of the year, but you have ten minutes to let them charge up? 8 gauge cables will do that if they have decent ends and you can reach it with short cables.
If there is absolutely no other option, 8 gauge fencing wire will work, even barbed if you’re really desperate.
I buy welding lead and put a good set of jumper cable clamps on the ends. Works real well. I have a set that is almost 15 years old.
Here's some cable if'n you're man enough 4/0 load bank cables I repurposed. I've been using them as welding leads, just run a short whip so I'm not dragging that around at a pound a foot!
Yeah Junkyard, the smaller whip on the ends is a great idea... I've found that even if you run single ought the wire starts to get too heavy for any of the spring ends I have been able to find and usually ends up 'readjusting itself' in a bad way
On the subject of jumper cables I would like to make a slight side stop lol Looking for a large series / parallel switch like on 12v 24v jump boxes so I can install second set of batteries in service truck so I can charge 12v off truck alternator but also isolate them and put them in series for 24v rather than mounting a 24v alternator and having stand alone 24v system. Been jumpstarting lots already this year.
I don't know of a switch, but if you have two batteries already in the service truck, I'd be tempted to hook one up with the forklift style connectors and make up a tap, and a Y so you could manually hook up 24V for jumping. You'd need a 24v alternator or some kind of isolated charger for the second battery to be able to charge a 24V system, either the series/parallel switch, or the Y connector wouldn't charge.
You could easily hook up a series-to-parallel switch like a lot of old trucks had/have in them for the starters 24 volt system, then instead of a starter the jump wires would get switched in or use andersen connectors to connect an extra 12volt battery in (parallel) and then have a separate plug to use as a series plug for the 24v jump set... just make sure you think out the setup first or you'll get some hot wires
When both machines have the same battery polarity, I have rubbed bumbers hard up for a ground and used both cables for the positive to get enough juice in an emergency.
I have installed standard welding shop 24" 800 long amp welding twist lock connectors off my dual truck batteries. I use a set of 25 ft. 800 amp welding extension leads for the cables. The copper is #3/0 fine strand. If you use the female for positive on the truck you are insulated when disconnected. Mine simply lay in the plastic tray in front of the radiator on my Ford Powerstroke until I need them. I use short pieces of the same cable for the other end with connectors on one end and the other bolted to vise grips. Nice to have them painted or marked for polarity so you don't get confused. The nice thing about this setup is when I use my winch I simply stick it in the front receiver and plug it into my connectors. If I need it on the back of the truck or want to use the winch on any of my trailers I simply use the welding leads to make the connections. Simple as installing welding connectors on the winch also. It works like a charm both for jumping or winching with no winch batteries on the trailer. Very little battery loss with these, not even noticeable when winching. If one watches and buys when the copper price takes a dip they may be affordable again. EDIT: 3/0 cable is $3.74 a foot on line, no tax.
For a jumper box, I got a few Noco GB 150’s this year for my trucks and equipment. Have had to use it once so far on my skidsteer - was about 15 degrees and I hadn’t run it for sbout a month. Worked pretty good. https://no.co/brands/noco-genius