I just bought a diesel 1967 Case 580CK backhoe. It seems pretty well maintained for being 50 years old. Not that I would know I guess....this is the first piece of equipment I've ever owned. Tractor fires right up and everything works as it should. Tractor lifts itself off the ground with both buckets. The old man I bought it off of told me that he had parked it 3 years ago and everything was running great and he hadn't messed with it since. I had to bring my own battery as it was parked right off the road and the battery and terminals had been stolen. To make a long story short, he told me that the right brake was rusted up pretty bad and was causing the wheel to not want to spin. There was not an ounce of power steering fluid so much so that you could push the tires side to side with ease when loader had wheels off the ground and wheels wouldn't track at all when you went to move it so I didn't move it very far; just back and forth enough to see the clutch was working well enough to spin the tires and strong enough to unstick the brake and make the tractor move. We agreed on $2500 with me thinking a couple hundred for the brakes and have a very good running machine. His son hauled it home almost 2 hours for free for me on their rollback. Once home, I filled up the power steering pump and viola with a few turns of the wheel the steering was working perfectly. I took off down the road. The right wheel would not want to move like the brake was stuck and then make a clunk sound at take off but then it would be fine. After a starts and stops and passes up and down the road (i was thinking i was working to free the rust inside the brakes) the right wheel started clunking with every turn off the tire. I decided I had better head for the house to see what the problem was but before I could make it, something started grinding badly and now no movement at all. Just a bunch of raucous in the rear end. I'm fairly confident it is in the rear end and not the transmission. Any ideas of what this could be before I tear into it? My neighbor said you have to split the tractor to do work to the rear end but it seems to me you could just take the backhoe off. Not that it matters now, but just curious if anyone else thinks someone drained the hydraulic fluid out of the steering so someone wouldn't be able to move it very far seeing as how there is no apparent leak? Hindsight is 20/20 should have ran to the store and gotten fluid but he and his son both seemed honest and nice....maybe they really didn't know but seems aawfully coincidental to me. My neighbor pulled me down to his place because we live way up on a hill and no way his tractor was pulling my new beast up there. I'm mechanically inclined and do most all of the work on my small fleet of vehicles and I've been told these tractors arent much different just everything is heavier and more expensive. This was purchased for cleaning up our road, tearing down and old house, and doing work around our new 15 acre property and not used to make money. Thanks for the help!
I would put it up in the air in the back and remove the drain plug at the rear, need at least 4 five gallon buckets ready,only holds around 5 gallons gear lube, due to water/milk shake also. Remove the back plate and take a look inside, possible tooth gone on ring gear/bull gear/side gear. The brake bands/drum/disc could have also given up there linings as well grinding into the side plate or drum. You can do the oil and back plate in 15min and have another person spin the wheel if possible while looking.
I will check the gears tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the problem is more serious than brakes now though because the tractor won't move under it's own power and there is just some sort of grinding sound. When he was towing me it was still making the clunking/grinding sound every rotation of the wheel.
Also, do you know if it is one of the gears in the rear end can it be done from the back without separating the tractor?
Most of the 580's and B's you will have to remove the seat and floor to pull the top cover on the trans rearend, to remove the bull gears they come out the top, the side gears will come out after removeing the brake houseing and backing cover. The ring gear will also come out the top but the pinion shaft you have to split the tractor. Most will remove the hoe and connect the hyd lines so you don't deadhead the hyd pump. Remove the flooring/fenders, look close at the frame near the brake houseing, some have been cut/trimmed to allow the brake houseing to come off. You will need to due what ever it takes to remove the brake houseing, backhoe support frames and even the rops if needed. The ring gear can go in either way so make a note to yourself if you get that far, if it was a forklift it would go on the other side of the pinion. Most of all do not let the p/s pump run dry, if it locks up it may break your camshaft, and your pistons and valves will make friends. Do the oil drain first and take a look, let us know what you see first before digging in to deep so we can start you off in your repair with what needs to be removed.
Wow thank you so much for all of the information! At least I will have an idea what all is involved when I get a look in there. It doesn't have the ROPS which I guess in this situation is nice. What does "deadhead the hydraulic pump" mean? I will certainly keep an eye on the ps fluid level but for the 15 minutes I ran it after I filled it up there wasn't a single leak so it sure seems like someone intentionally drained the system. Time will tell on that front I guess. Thanks again!
You don't want to block the flow of the pump, so when you unhook the backhoe, hook up the hydraulic lines to each other, don't cap them, if you're going to start the engine without the backhoe installed. I wouldn't read too much into the power steering fluid. It's not uncommon for old seals to hold for years as long as they're exercised but drain the system in a month if they're not used. Happens more often on brakes, but power steering wouldn't be that odd. Also entirely possible the guy forgot all the problems that caused him to park it in the first place.
Well this morning it was finally warm enough out to get over and take a look at the tractor. Unfortunately, the ring and pinion gears are both chewed up and there is a lot of movement in what I would call the pinion bearing. It looks like I'll be splitting the tractor I read somewhere that this process will take someone that knows what they are doing about 14 hours to complete but it didn't appear to be too bad. Am I underestimating the work that is involved? It seems to me the backhoe will have to come off, then there are 4 bolts per side to separate the frame from the axle and then another 4 bolts (maybe a few on the bottom it was really muddy and didn't crawl underneath) holding the rearend on. Am I missing something?
Also, can anyone point me to where I can get pins and bushings for this? I've looked on broken tractor and a few other places but they are all for B's and newer. I think I remember reading somewhere that the loader is the same but the backhoe is different. That would stand to reason I could buy B loader pins and bushings but I would need to find somewhere that specifically sells pins and bushings for ck backhoe. Is that correct?
Well looks like your going to get some wrench time, don't read to much into the 14 hours because it can end up a pandora's box, also would not order parts untill it's pulled down and checked over well. You most likely have a 33 hoe on your machine with a single boom cylinder, these were found on the early machines and the 480 size along with some crawlers and wheelloaders. The 35 is what you find on the 580 B/C/D/E machines, parts should not be a issue. I would find a S/M for this machine, the parts pages can be printed off the casece site and will help you also pulling it down. The next big step is to take the backhoe off and get the tractor out of the weather. You will need a good floor jack at least 2 1/2 ton, several bottle jacks and cribbing along with some wedges for the front axle, tire's aired up, remove the backhoe lower frames each side. You will be moving the rear section back, but leave room to the front also just in case. You will have to suppot the rear end, both loader frames, and the front suttle section along with the front counter weight if it has one on it. It's not a bad job, just plan ahead so it's not in a unsafe way, along with some help around so you don't get in a jam.
Before you tear into the rear end, I'd suggest that you make sure that the brakes are free and working. On the CKs, they are outboard and subject to moisture. In the parts diagram, you will see 4 steel balls that are often rusty and disc they run on can be worn causing the balls to lock up. Its not the cheapest to fix but better than the rear end. Mine were worn and on a brake application jammmed up on the one side only, nearly ending up turning the machine over. I replaced everthing and all has been well for years now. Jess
We got the backhoe over to my shop and got the hoe off. I did buy a manual online so that will give me a good starting point. Started tearing into it and it looks like I'll be taking out a second mortgage to fund these parts! The brake was seized up on one side so I guess I'll replace both sides while I have it apart to make sure no problems in the future. As stated already, the ring and pinion will be replaced as well as the side gear on what would be the passenger side (right side I think.) I'll need bearings for both of the side gears and the front and back of the ring and pinion. So, does anyone know where I can buy new or used parts? Specifically, I'm wondering about the bearings. Broken tractor has all of the gears and brake parts but none of the bearings. If anyone knows where I can get cheaper new or used parts than there, I would be most appreciative. I don't know if it will be possible to find any cheaper, but as an example, the ring and pinion are $375 and the side gear is $205. Talked to local Case dealer and they wanted $1600 just for ring and pinion...ouch. Also, does anyone know where I can find pins and bushings? It's an old sloppy hoe but I would really like to replace both in the swing cylinders as that is where almost all of the play is coming from. Thanks very much!
I would look at broken tractor, and others, I have seen some after market, will look later and see. Would not fix the backhoe untill you get the trans/rearend fixed. You will have your hands full on this, it's a real bear, look close at your parts and service book pic's as you take the halfs apart. Take pic's along the way.
Here is a link to a super knowledgeable Case parts dealer. http://e-backhoeparts.com/ His name is Dale Wiess. His family owned a Case dealership for many years. This is the first part of his web site homepage. QUOTE: Though we have no affiliation with Case or any other equipment manufacturer, we did spend a great deal of our lives in a Case dealership. So, most of our tractorstuff pertains to Case utility, construction, and agricultural equipment. Though some of our items date back to the 1940's and others reach up to the mid 2000's, our strongest area is new replacement parts and used parts to fit CASE backhoes, dozers, and other tractors from the 1950's through the early 2000's. UNQUOTE: He has helped me when others couldn't.
You may want to try http://equipmentpartssource.com I've been told by a friend of mine that owns a 580C that they are very helpful.
Does anyone know if there is a trick to removing the cover/shifter for the 2 speed shuttle? Bolts removed but will not pull off! All other bolts are out of the transmission/rear end and all linkages and rear end still will not separate so I'm thinking one of the shafts (probably the main shaft?) is somehow bolted or snap ringed or something inside the shuttle but the cover won't come off for anything. Thanks for all of the help and I'll give e-backhoeparts and equipmentpartssource a call not much of a CK selection on their website.
Ok everyone, thanks for getting me this far. I got my parts quickly from brokentractor. We got the tractor separated and am now ready to replace the pinion and both bearings that carry the pinion. All of the other gears look to be in good shape. Now for the questions. I have the pdf manual and it does a good job of showing how say the shuttle or transmission goes together on its own, but not how they connect to each other. There are probably 6 bolts holding the shuttle "case" off of the front of the transmission. Can I just unbolt that "case" and all of the gears will come out together and stay together and then I can just work with the transmission or do I have to take all of the gears in both the shuttle and the transmission....boy I hope that's not the case! Thanks.
Good luck with your fix. I'm in the same boat. 580B that is getting a ring and pinion soon.
Usually when doing a crown & pinion on this model, you would split the tractor between the shuttle & transaxle...... sounds like you have split it between the engine & convertor? Anyhow, when the 6 bolts are removed, the two will just seperate. Make sure the shuttle shaft stays fwd & does not fall out! Make sure you note the number of shims on the mainshaft, between the rear of the shuttle & transaxle input as well.
I'm in the same boat. Started with pin bushing in #4 rod, then every bearing in the rear end, all but one bearing in the transmission, and now the shuttle needs attention. The upside is she will practically be new when done............. oh, and it's rather fun to work on. Simple when compared to modern equipment.
I know you are busy, but can you tell me where you got your PDF manual and is it any good I have a 1971 580CK thanks
Ebay has them for around $10......... They are adequate.
I was on Ebay a few days ago. There was a listing for a complete rearend for case 580b for about a 1000.00 Don't know if that will help you any.
I just bought a case 580b constuction king backhoe. The shuttle transmission whines in reverse,but seems to work ok. The fluid in the shuttle transmission is milky looking and a little low. (down to the first mark). Shuttle pressure guage stays in the green until clutch pedal depressed. Shuttle transmission also appears to be leaking at the pump and torque converter seal. Where should I start?