talking to a older midwest dozer man, said he sprays his blade down ever night with some type of metal coating stuff. said the best stuff was archer oil protector stuff not sure of the name but it is no longer made. his reason was to keep blade from rusting up,it would shed dirt better, also when you pull in on job, a rusty blade does look professional. his blades are shiny all year long any body still do this? if so what do you use? also this archer oil stuff was used during the moldboard plow days, what is the name of it?
Never heard of such a thing.
Yep , paint them with used motor oil or thin coat of grease sure helps keep the rust off when not in use for a period of time . Used to do the moldboard plow the same way . They sure perform better when slick .
he also said something about, todays motor oil do not work has good has it used to, they took something out of it that lets the rain wash it off easier. not sure what they changed in it.
Could be Zink ? I only paint blades at end of season , not every evening . Although we got enough used Detroit motor oil to paint them daily . LOL !
Never heard of doing dozer blades ,have heard of doing snow plows.
The blade on my TD-9H never gets shiny no matter how much I use it? Any idea why?
Like td25 said used oil works fine.i pant mine if it's going to sit for more then a couple of days. Earthscratcher that old dozer operator wouldn't be from west central IL Would he.
You're pushing black dirt and clay loam right? It's tough to get steel to scour once it's old and rusty unless you work long enough in sand, gravel, or stone. Plus a smaller dozer doesn't get the sliding that a larger machine gets, so a 60,000lb dozer can push enough dirt to scour the blade much quicker than a 20,000 dozer, because it has more weight pushing against the blade, and that weight is enough to get the dirt sliding and rolling. The steel stays the same, there's just much more pressure and flow against it. You can try scraping or rinsing the dirt off, even power brushing the rust if you want to go to that trouble. Then oil the blade up whenever you use it, the oil keeps the rust from progressing, and also seems to help keep the dirt from sticking as much to help the sliding and polishing. Old motor oil, bad diesel, gear oil, whatever. warm it up and melt in some old candles if those are handy, and/or some linseed oil. the linseed oil polymerizes to keep from rinsing off, the wax leaves a residue even if the oil is gone (rained off or soaked into the dirt).
I brush on used oil with an old broom if I think the dozer is going to be sitting awhile. I get the oil out of our used oil barrel which is mostly used motor oil. If I was having trouble getting a blade to scour I would splash a little diesel on it at quitting time. Usually after 3-4 days of doing that they seem to sour pretty good.
most guys in my area are hired by farmers by the hour, so a dirty rusty blade, carrying back a half yard of dirt to the cut lose a lot of production in a day.and these days those farmers are pretty tight if they already do not have there own dozer. so a scoured blade, is a lot more important then one might think that old doze man is from monmouth ill fred hall and runs international stuff.
I cleaned my mower deck a few times by scraping all the hardened grass and dirt away. After sweating my ------off a couple of weeks ago in the heat doing it again, my wife brought out a can of PAM and sprayed the underneath. I looked at her like she was insane but Ill be damded………….it WORKED!
Pam works great for mower or snow plows. Use it regularly On my 580 and crawlers I use a mix of old diesel and motor oil. Tom
You need moisture for iron to rust. We don't have any so blades stay shiney.
Diesel has wax in it, so you can skip the candles I was talking about. Unless you really don't like candles...
I've never been anywhere that ever thought about rust on a blade. On the west side of the mountains the blades will rust between Friday evening at quitting time and Monday morning at start up. On the east side of the Cascade range it might take months of sitting before rust shows up. This machine has been pushing wood chips which usually shines to a near mirror finish. It had been shut down for about a week.
Try that again.
Maybe you all know this Archer is a brand of oil my brother is a dealer and also my uncle is a dealer for them. Don't have any idea is they have a product like you are talking about tho. I could check.
Ok, I have to chime in here. I've been putting my moldboard blade up on a wood blocks when parking it for extended periods thinking that grounding the blade might contribute to rusting. I also live in a dry climate, but would have to say it seems to make a difference for the better.