Hello I've had a few topics here and appreciate the input I've gotten. I've got a load of problems on various machines in the graveyard from bad decisions and I'm trying to sort through in free time. On my kobelco 160-4, there were other problems on this machine, but after it sat for a few weeks and fired up to test a modification it had no throttle adjustment. I checked out the the stepper mechanism and noticed it had been spliced, original connectors bypassed. The newer wiring has frayed/melted/ maybe even cut to the point where I have no previous connections to go by for a base. The stepper has 7 wires. 4 on one section 3 on the other. The machine receives 6 wires. I've looked for what I could find for oem connectors to try to match up wiring coloring and couldn't find any diagrams. Is there a way to probe the stepper and wiring to figure out the correct pin connections? I know I can ohm the 4 wire pair, but how does that relate to the computer side and where does the 4 wire come in? What I kind of have figured at the moment is I have red, pink or brown, orange and yellow for the 4 pair from stepper. On the harness side I've got green red white black. So what im guessing from looking at other similar machine color coding is red to red, pink/ brown to green, orange to black, yellow to yellow [or white] . Im assuming its like a 6 wire stepper wiring. 2 coils [from 4 wire] and 2 normally closed or open circuits? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Attached are correlating diagrams. Colors seem to be semi standard for stepping coils. I'll have to double check my coil polarity but I'm pretty sure I'm wired correctly. So what could prevent the machine from idling up if it worked before continuity is lost? Surely just unplugging and unplugging in shouldn't require a calibration should it? There's a possibility a switch got flipped between first time not working and new wiring and I'll check it out. But you could hear the stepper pulsing with key on like it was attempting so doubt that's an issue. Appreciate any help.
Good day Connstellation Attached is some information that may help, our experience with these devices have proven that any mechanical connection requires a zero play tolerance, setting of the potentiometer can be acheived by disconnection the 4 pin connector and setting the idle voltage of the pot to value. Hope it helps, kind regards Uffex
Appreciate the information. Fortunately I powered the machine up to test a d1 bypass issue which is causing all processes to be 1/4 speed and arm to auto travel out and discovered the stepper to be working correctly at second start up. Previous information was correct although I don't think many will benefit from it. I'll probably be back for incite on the bypass issue after I get back into the valve body for examination and rebuild the arm cylinder. The rod seal is leaking fluid and no doubt it's sucking air. Though I doubt this would contribute or be a standalone issue to the bypass code/ arm travel. Thanks