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Kobelco roller frame repair

doubleh ยท 2016-04-17 13:51

New guy here I recently purchased a Kobelco XK200 LC for ranch work that was in a corrosive environment. The U frame section of the roller frame has some cracks starting around the openings for the upper rollers that need repair. It seems to be a low to medium carbon. Anybody have any insight into what type of sheet steel was used, or repair techniques? Thanks hh

Replies12
  1. #1doubleh2016-04-19 12:28

    Hmmm over 150 views and no comment. I guess I am the first to have this problem. I had hoped to get some pics to post but with all the rain it hasn't worked out yet. Both the sheet steel and the sole cut pretty easily with a hack saw and are fileable so that rules out tool steel (and the need for preheat.)

  2. #2gtermini2016-04-19 13:03

    When in doubt, 7018 with a half-ass preheat and needle peen as it cools will weld most things problem free. If I'm super unsure or it's a joint between mild and something else, I grab the Eutectrode 680. Greyson

  3. #3catfixer2016-04-19 14:24

    You're right up the road from the best welder I know. Might want to give him a call I'm sure he could tell you. He's good people http://www.weldingrepairservices.com/index.html

  4. #4doubleh2016-04-19 16:52

    Thanks gtermini, I think I will try the 7018 first. Ive never heard of Eutectrode 680 but looked it up, sounds interesting. If I can find some I may experiment with it. catfixer, Thank you. I looked at his photo album, looks like nice work!! I will give him a call.

  5. #5lantraxco2016-04-19 18:00

    Love 680! Have to mortgage the firstborn to buy it but I have successfully welded leaf springs and chrome moly shafts with it (not at the same time, lol)

  6. #6doubleh2016-04-20 09:19

    Yikes, nearly $60/lb at Airgas. I may have to keep my experimentation to a minimum. Does it require storage in an oven?

  7. #7lantraxco2016-04-20 11:36

    Dunno about the recommendations but my Dad has had some in his closet in the house for over forty years, still runs fine... he's 85 and figures if he's stingy he can leave me a stick or two of the 3/16", he generally uses the smaller sizes LOL! It's kind of a modified stainless, runs cold, strong and tough, so much nickel in it you can't cut it with a torch. You shouldn't need it for the repair you're doing though, 7018 or a similar wire if you go that way should work just fine.

  8. #8doubleh2016-04-21 10:59

    After scraping off several inches of hardened Pine ash it turns out that the PO has patched it in several places and its cracking in the areas that weren't reinforced. The original steel is paper thin in places. It all needs to be removed and replaced. Flooding rains have made it difficult and dangerous to work on it outside so I am thinking of moving it into the shop. I'm hoping 3/4 plywood or pcs of 2X12 will support it enough that it won't damage my floor.

  9. #9doubleh2016-04-21 22:57

    catfixer, wow you weren't exaggerating! He is a very genuine and helpful guy! thanks for the tip.

  10. #10doubleh2016-07-17 17:23

    I finally got the section of the roller frame that I will be replacing, cut out. It was a struggle. It turns out that multiple layers of rust is an excellent insulator and will not cut with a torch.. Im starting to make some progress now though.

  11. #11doubleh2016-10-02 21:27

    ops no pic

  12. #12doubleh2016-10-02 21:37

    Nearly 5 month to the day, its finished. It was a learning experience.