Just noticed it yesterday. I was hoping to sell the machine but now will have to hold off. The head gasket is almost $700.00 up here in Alberta. I recently rebuilt the water pump, new combustion chamber rings and copper washers, resealed lift cylinders. As many here know it's impossible to start with out either until summer which means it could possibly need new piston rings. Not sure what to do. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have pulled off the bucket. Dropped belly pan and parked in the shop. I’m going to pull the head off.
If it otherwise, runs and sounds good, maybe you will get lucky and a head gasket will cure it. Keep us posted.
Spent a couple hours or so taking stuff apart. Maybe get the head off tomorrow.
That’s one of my favorite engines of all time.
Got the head off. I’ll start with some pics.
some more…
Some more pics
More pics. I’m seeing some scuffs on the sleeves. Not sure if these are critical. This is out of my field of experience everyone. What ever advice you can give will be appreciated. I can take more pics also. Thanks.
Love the cracked pistons, that's going to cause you some $$$pend out to sort correctly unless you just drop a new gasket on, the engine has the Lanchester type balance shafts in if you go the big route, K.M.P. parts are well worth hunting out as they cost nothing like the mind blowing price that Komatsu think they are worth, in the U.K. we have a Company that is totally focused on the Komatsu Iron called Kedgeworth that would easily sort your problems at low cost, on an old D50S I used the same head joint 3 times as they were a crazy price, the D57S could be found with a 4 cylinder engine or a 6 cylinder engine, the 1 engine was faultless and ran like a Swiss Watch also highly prized, the other engine was a fair pig and cracked pistons, cracked heads, also loved to smash out the side to show off, you might have a guess on the engine??? on a serious note if you need any help with anything I have done a few of these motors so don't be thinking I am unhelpful.
Thanks tctractors. I hope we can keep it running. Machine serial no. 09571 Engine S4D130-1 Engine serial no. 29040 I’m going to need a hand on this for sure.
Oh’ boy. By chance, does the old girl have an ether habit? Does She like to hit the starting fluid on a cold morning?
Yes. The machine would never start without it. Unless it was 75 degrees or better.
That explains the piston damage. Probably has bent connecting rods, too.
Update. Pulled the front end with the radiator included yesterday. Got the engine manual from one of our members ( zigzag ) and started reading it. I need to get an engine stand.
Fortunate to have a nice shop to work in. Don’t stress about an engine stand. A sturdy wooden bench about 24” high works great. Done plenty on the floor with a just wood blocks.
I would like to say at this point things start to turn to crap, the pistons get those splits in them from over heat and I have removed piston rings off these engines and been able to straighten them out by hand in to a length of steel, you will do this with no other engine that I know of, the O.E. parts are set at a price that will bring a gasp out of a dead man and you cannot really tackle this engine in a half baked way, they are not very popular in the D57S the 6 cylinder motor 57's are so much better, with new cylinder packs they will start like a car, make a big fuss of the oil coolers and radiator, check the balance shaft bearings as they run x 2 crank speed, also check all the inlet manifold and pipe work for cracks and plugs missing.
Thanks tctractors for the advice. I pulled the rad a couple summers ago and externally cleaned it really well. The temp just gets into the green so that's good. I checked some pricing on KMP brand that comes out of your country and also has a location in Houston , Texas. They seem reasonable. The Komatsu dealer here in Alberta is very very very expensive for sure.
Update. Pulled the motor this afternoon. Got the oil pan off. Found a broken washer in pan. Will investigate tomorrow.
Here is what I found in the oil pan.
Got the oil pump strainer off and undid the nuts on #2 cap. The cap is tight. Two of the bolts across diaganally from each other are not loose. Tapped it with little brass hammer but it won’t release. Am I missing something here. Thanks
Ok, I got two rod caps off. Just had to gently tap the bolts up with nut still on. Came off easy. Pics of #1 and #4 bearings.
Looking good, so far. Hopefully, there is a chance the crank is healthy.
Thanks Coaldust. The crank was new 4000 hours ago. Back in 1997 the engines was worked on by a local mechanic we knew. From what I remember he did the top end on plus low end bearings. 250 hours later the crank broke. He had to fix it again. I don’t believe he sent the crank in to be magnifluxed on the first go round. Sad story. Here are some more pics.
Here are the bearing pics starting with #1.
Some more pics looking down liners 1-4.
Deck pics
Pulled the valves out of the head today. Measured springs. They are within spec. Has anyone tried lapping the valves and seats with lapping compound or is it better to take the head into a machine shop?
What’s do you use for a flat edge for measuring the deck of the block? The steel in the pick is just done flat steel I use on the press so I don’t trust it.
Looking at the valve seats on exploded view-those are pretty rough-Springs are tested at a certain height for pressure. Your into it--have it rebuilt.
Talked to machine shop and will wait to see what they come up with for price.
Forget the Block as you are opening a whole different can of worms chap, the block will be fine just clean it up some and leave alone, you need to find out about the bit/s you found in the sump, this engine is not a learner type motor to get a Merit Badge off as it's a Wrong U'n to begin with, the valve springs are heat coil speck with close coils to the head the engine needs careful and diligent process on all points, the valves can be re lapped with grinding paste but would possibly respond better with a seat cut, but find out the home of the Sump Shrapnel first, you might well end up hating the sight of this motor.
The valves and seats are more than likely Stellite, when any pitting takes place in either the seat or valve face it's tough to lap it out. Facing equipment is done with special Stellite stones. Stellite is a hardened surface, I use to rebuild allot of John Deere heads, I can tell you the seats and valves in those were harder than a whores heart. Very time consuming because the stones were constantly needing dressed to keep seat & valve face angles correct. Now days top shops have cutters for facing. It shouldn't cost a fortune to clean the valves, check the guides, dress the seats & valves and surface grind.
Thanks tctractors and Truck Shop. I guess I better find out what that washer spacer is that I found in the pan. Maybe its was from the last time things were opened up back in 97. Machine shop didn't get back to me so probably won't hear anything till next week on the head.
Don't waste any coins on this engine until you have properly assessed all the parts, I have already brought to the front that the Fan Club for these motors in the U.K. has no members, you are being a brave boy tackling the nasty things.
Still taking stuff apart. Made a puller for the liners and pulled one out. I haven’t figured out where that spacer washer came from yet. I will probably have it o pull the front cover off and take a look there.
You found the problem I see--someone lost their shirt, ended up around the crank.
The face grooves on your shrapnel suggest it could have been a thrust washer.
terex herder. Where do the thrust washers typically go? It’s about 32mm in diameter with about a 15mm inside diameter. 3 mm thick.
Well in that engine--anything with a shaft-or gear train. * 4D130-1 & S4D130-1 (10006-Up) Below are a list of Komatsu engine series we provide parts for. If you do not see your engine or are not sure which engine your equipment is running, please contact us and we will provide as much help as possible. DK Engine Parts provides OEM equivalent quality parts for most Komatsu engine... dkengineparts.com
That washer is most likely coming from gear train as a thrust washer as was previously said. or could be from an accessory drive off the gear train. I have done too many D155 Engines and they have several in the gear train. Only logical place to find in my opinion. Simon C
Thanks Simon C. I’ll start making more space for parts then start into the front end.
When you first posted about the head gasket and was selling it, i was going to suggest chemiweld or liquid head gasket sealer, pull the head bolts down half a turn and send it to the auction. Bit late now
Cliffy. I believe there is value in the machine with a good engine. It's a great learning opportunity for me to go through it and fix it up. I have what you might call " a fire in my belly to do it.
My guess at this point is part no.7.
Thinking no.5. Cam retainer. No.7 looks like a washer on bolt.
Whatever you do, please don't let this project turn onto 60 pages of belligerence. I'm as stubborn as anyone you'll ever find, but when TC gives warning, I do tend to listen with intent. Good luck in this endeavor.
For posterity.
I don’t see anything missing so far.
Using a pry bar can you get any excessive end play on any gears in the train?
Some how I think James has thought this through--I'm going to give him the star for going ahead.
Thanks Truck Shop. I’ll check the end play on everything in there after supper. I need all the help I can get here guys. Appreciate all your comments.
The end play and back lash fall into spec on the gear train. I'm going to drop off the head tomorrow to make it new again and injection pump and nozzles to injection shop to do the same. I'm also going to check out a 2000 lb engine stand while I'm in town to see if will work for me. Wish I has Truck Shop's stand right about now.
Hmm cracked pistons? I have reused them many times in D342 engines, never had a problem years down the road so to say. But then I don't remember them looking that bad.
I put the motor on a stand but the flywheel which includes the damper is to heavy making it impossible to flip over. I can’t seem to get it off. I undid the bolts on the spacer ( part 18 ) which includes the damper and tapped it with a hammer but it won’t break loose. Is it possible it’s just rusted itself onto the flywheel? Am I missing something here? Maybe it needs to be heated up with a rose bud a bit? Thanks all.
Interesting--I wouldn't heat it, not familiar with that piece, although the exploded view looks simple. Might have to remove outer bolts with lock tabs, it looks as though there are fasteners from the other direction on the back side. If my eyes are not deceiving me.
Got it off. Once the bolts from the damper were off was able to pry it off then exposed the 6 bolts holding the flywheel on. My $200.00 engine stand has a lot to be desired. Have to use the lift in conjunction to be safe.
If you were closer you could have used mine.
The lift is doing most off the work.
I could use a hand here if you please. Not sure how to remove part #11 (end cap). All the other ones came off easy. I pried against crank lobe with bar but it doesn’t budge. Don’t want to wreck anything. Thanks
Is that the one right next to the flywheel housing.? If so then IMO the housing should really be removed first to give you some access to start beating on the main cap.
I could use a hand here if you please. Not sure how to remove part #11 (end cap). All the other ones came off easy. I pried against crank lobe with bar but it doesn’t budge. Don’t want to wreck anything. Thanks
I was hoping I wouldn’t have to do that. A couple extra gaskets and seal to add to the parts list. Thanks Nige.
I'd rather someone else with experience of this model engine such as @tctractors advised you but personally I can't see any way of that main cap coming off easily unless the flywheel housing is out of the way first.
I think you’re right Nige. I kind of like it standing up right now with it supported by my lift and engine stand. I’ll have to get creative once the flywheel housing is off. Looks like I will have to order the full gasket seal kits to close everything up in the end.
When you have something like that, pulled so far apart, it makes no sense not to remove EVERYTHING. Now is the time to deal with that rear seal, and any related to the rear of the engine gaskets etc etc. It all needs the be cleaned real good as well, and to check things real good for cracks and other potential problems. I'm sure a top guy like Truck Shop would agree. I would not be trusting that stand you have that on. Blocks of wood on the floor are a safer option. Oh does it have cylinder liners? Now is the time to deal with them and the seals etc. Don't do this job half _$$.
Flywheel is off. Two of the flywheel bolts went into the cap.Thanks Chidog for your advise. I’ll be careful with the stand. I finished pulling the liners yesterday. I haven’t ordered any parts yet. Wanting to check everything first.
i was wondering if there were any fasteners into the cap from the back side. That answers that question...........
The drawings are really bad. Hard to see the parts.
This design negates the use of side seals on the main cap or a rear seal retainer like some engines use
I can feel the ridge closest to the journal. How much is allowable?
I was taught, if you can catch the ridge with your fingernail three choices: - Drive the seal in a little more or little less to give seal new area to ride on. If possible - Sleeve the crank surface where seal rides - Weld and regrind affected area
If the seal lip on the new seal is located at the same depth as the original, installing it about 3mm deeper would work but first compare where the lip on the new seal is located. After a couple decades, it depends who made the seal and if it is exactly the same as the old one. The important thing is to get it square and even in the bore.
Goofy stuff having bolts and or pins going into a bearing cap. Makes an inframe very difficult. And please don't use that crap silicone (RTV) as it looks like someone did. That will be one of the most difficult jobs removing it. Please don't use powered abrasives to clean the machined surfaces.
First measure the depth of seal housing bore to see just how much can be afforded by installing seal at a different depth. You may not have the surface area needed, if so the only steps left is #1 crank seal area reworked on a crankshaft grinder, and that is only if there is a plus/minus given for undersize. If the grove is too deep then it will need to be welded and reground to spec. #2 is if there is a seal with a wear ring available just for this circumstance. If the crank can be machined--all the journals/crankpins can be polished at that time and crank checked for straightness. Most don't have them checked but it is not uncommon for a diesel crank to be out of tolerance from end to end. * At that time it's also a very good idea to have the con rods checked for alignment, large housing bore & wrist pin bushings checked. In most cases 1 in 12 con rods is actually not straight. Mostly caused from ether.
Thanks Chidog. I think the last person used silicone because the cap ended up a touch deeper than the rest of the block surface. I'll just use a scraper on the old gaskets.
Truck Shop. The seal wasn't all the way into the bore on the flywheel housing. I would say it can go 2 or 3 more mm which will bring it that much closer to the engine. Probably still 10 -12 mm to the edge. Hope that's enough? Please excuse my ignorance here. When you say large housing bore do you mean the block? I will have to pull all the shafts out. If I have to do that wouldn't I have to mark all the gears so they mesh up the same when it goes back together? Thanks.
On connecting rods and block/main cap bores, those are listed in automotive machine manuals as {housing bores}, In those manuals it is not referred to as {big end of the rod}.
My pump rebuilder just called me. Having problem finding parts for the injection pump. I gave him machine model and engine model so he said he will keep searching. It’s a Nippondenso 090000-9702. Anyone know of any suppliers that can help? thepumpguysc any chance you have any connections for this unit? Thanks
Update. Got message from pump rebuilder parts are available from Europe. I’ll let you know when I know more.
There should be marks stamped on the gears already? And you have to remove all the parts to clean and check things properly. If the pressed in bearings are in good shape you likely can keep them in.
The cost of this engine repair will soon put that Shovel in a place where you will be very unhappy as its not going to be something you will get your coins returned, I did say they are like the " Black Spot" off Israel Hands in the U.K. plus the fact the mystery item is still a mystery?? so far the Cylinder Head has been dropped off, the injector pump has also been dropped off and don't forget to tell them to replace the throttle spindle bushings and O rings, but as for taking rods etc to be dropped off some place, well unless you are $$$$ rotten you will soon be skint, the D57S is an old Shovel with a value of its weight and a bit, you might have to learn to love this Shovel for a long time.
Thanks Chidog. I'll make sure the marks are noted. tctractors. I'm don't understand the " Black Spot " comment. Can you elaborate please. Scrape price not including my labour and equipment to break the machine apart would be a few thousand dollars at best. I may have to keep the machine. I'm good with that. The gentleman working on the injection pump has been doing it for 46 years so I believe he will check and rebuild it properly. Up to this point I believe the mystery thrust washer inadvertently feel into the oil pan last time the engine was opened up back in 1997. I'll keep looking though in case I am wrong here. Thanks for your comment.
The "Black Spot" comes from a Book called Treasure Island and was a folded message delivered by Blind Pugh, let's just say getting the Black Spot was something you would rather not want, to say the mysterious object is from something that had the nerve to drop in I find hard to understand, you need to put good effort into locating it's home, as for the injection pump the parts are scarce now and cost plenty, a weak spot is the throttle spindle, anything fuel pump is a big spend, best of luck.
Well lets see---A mystery piece, can't seem to find it's place in the rotating mass. Injection pump parts located across the water,---At this point the prudent thing is get all information & prices on total of engine then ask your self is it worth it. * Because now---you have been handed a folded piece of paper--The dreaded Black Spot.
In the U.K if a customer asked me to rebuild this 4 cylinder D57S engine I would want to see the money first, the 6 cylinder D57 is still well liked but very scarce to now find, the drive shaft coupling is another area of fun as its now in the Hens Teeth area and they love to crack open, Komatsu equipment lacks the support with its older built kit, the D65 dash 6 to dash 8 have parts that can be found but anything else is a Drama.