Have a kamatsu pc10-6 that was running good until this weekend. It ran out of fuel and is now blowing whitish smoke while running. Cleaned the fuel bowl that had about 2 inches of settlement in it. Fresh fuel. runs and moves, hydraulics all good. doe bog down when under heavy load or scraping ground.. Thanks In advance for any tips. I also noticed that when purchased it had a choke cable but down see it in any manuals and there is a small rod that was disconnected where the choke cable went to.
You need to change the fuel filter also. I believe that also has an electric fuel pump. Is it working properly?
pump is working. found that there was no fuel filter installed. going to get a couple ordered. also replaced fuel lines as most were loose and cracked. took tank off and cleaned as it had a tone of sludge in the bottom. This one also had a choke install when it was purchased last year but don't see any thing referencing or showing a choke in any maunuals or pictures. looks like they bypassed motor stop motor and disconnected the spring.
YIKES! There is no choke on a diesel, is there a place on the injection pump for the cable to hook to? like a cold weather start. Or is that your improvised shut off? nothing wrong with that. It looks like this is a yanmar engine? I don't know yanmars, but anything japanese, the first thing to do is look for a screen inside a banjo bolt, or whatever would catch the junk downsteam of the missing filter. This is one case where you'll be relieved to find a plugged up banjo bolt screen instead of pssed off at why they'd ever do such a crazy thing.
They might have a screen but I've never found one in this mighty mites if they had the water separator strainer. It is worth checking though.
Cleaned tank and lines, installed fuel filter and. hooked stop motor spring backup. Started back up and still white smoke. Could it be be one of the injectors. Just took the pipes of and cheked them for cracks and blocks , all good. notice 2 injectors had fuel sitting on thetop and the middle was dry. spray diesel into each, little while later the middle injector was empty again. Is there a special tool to remove the injectors?
Yeah, if the injector is draining like it sounds like, that's bad. These are pump -line -injector right? Loosen that center line while it's running and if it stops smoking, that's your answer.
Took injectors out and nozzles where pretty clogged. On plunger was stuck after multiple soaks was able to get it out. Cleaned and was able to get diesel to squirt out of each nozzle before putting back together. Reinstalled .turns over but won’t start now. No leaks. Getting fuel. Possible the injectors where just that shot
Did you have to mess with the popoff pressure to unstick the plungers? how did you get it back where it was? IF you figured out the popoff pressure setting, did you bleed the air out of the injectors and lines before you tightened the lines back up? What does "getting fuel" mean? is there fog coming out the exhaust?
When u took the injectors apart, did u notice a "spacer plate" between the tip & the body.?? Did it by chance, have tiny roll pins in it.?? or roll pins in the body itself.??
the order was assembly then shim inside first, spring then seat,then plate(with 2 role pins), nozzle, then nut. there was also a plastic spacer on the nozzle that was between nozzle and nut with a ring on it. pulled pipe off at injector to verify fuel is getting that far and it is.
That sounds right.. what did u torque the nozzle nut to.?? Have u hung an injector outside the engine to SEE if its firing.?? DO NOT get near the spray coming out of the tip.!!! IT WILL penetrate your skin & give u blood poisoning..
So yesterday I hung the injectors outside the engine to see if its firing and it is not. No spray at all.
You may not have it bleed of air yet. Try moving the stop lever in the other direction first to make sure it's not in the stop position.
Any chance in posting a picture of the pump.?? cuz I'm lost w/ this "choke" thing.. Or u can send it to my home email.. click on my screen name to the left & my contact info is on my profile page.
Here is the picture. We disconnected the Choke cable and hooked the engine shutoff back up. You see the chcable just laying there now. Also was able to get it started lastnight. It idled high night throttle was stuck open even if i move it to low. had to shut fuel off to shut it down. found the Shutoff motor could not move. The arm connected to the injector pump seams stuck. No free play. possible blockage there.
LOL @ choke cable. TPG needs a pic of the entire injector pump so he can help you.
I think I'll sit this one out..?? Lol
Here’s 2 pics
Great !! pictures w/ no explanation of this "choke cable".. I can see from your pic u TRIED to get into the side cover.. THATS where u NEED TO go.. but u cant get in there w/ a screwdriver.. u HAVE TO USE a hand impact w/ a Phillips head bit {#1} & a hammer.. Once the cover is off, pull the throttle to wide open & pull the stop back & forth.. {I wont bother w. the techn. terms} The innards should be moving back & forth.. IF u screwed up that screw so bad u cant get a bit in it..?? U could get some vise grips.. give it a couple good wacks w. a hammer & BRASS DRIFT 1st.. OR if u can get to the "CAP" on the front of the pump.?? remove it & do the throttle & shut off thing & WATCH THE RACK to see if it moves in & out.. {the thing that's sticking out once u remove the cap}
Something looks off here
How the h*ll did that happen?? I'll tell u.. who ever was fooling w/ it, loosened the top nuts & got the barrels outta position & put everything back together for the next guy "to find".. The ONLY WAY to get it right is to pull the pump & have it professionally put back together.. AND YES, the pump & engine need to be timed before u pull it..
so it back running..no more white smoke. shuts off. problem now is it ran fine for a day to move it then today when working after a short while it started to struggle under and movement or digging. when it would start to loose power there would be black smoke. soon a you let off the controls it would go back to idle fine with no smoke.
There either a dirty/plugged fuel filter somewhere or the supply pump is going/gone out.. It'll run at idle but when u call for more fuel its not available.. How did u fix the inj. pump.?
We Pulled the line off the pump and the cover off the front again and removed the valve/tappet assembly and realigned the pinion on the one that was off
U wanna job.?? lol. Nice work..
I just found this thread that my brother in-law started to get help with my excavator. Thank you all for your input. It seems like a great group here. I now have the excavator running without smoking but will not shut down again. Last time this happened I think that it was because one injector pump plunger was not aligned with the other two leaving a constant fuel flow. Without knowing everything that Jay tried when I was not around here is that basics of what I know. It was run low on fuel and sediment from the bottom of the tank got into the system. I had bought the unit late last summer and we only used it a couple of times without problem. I intended to do a full service on it before doing any heavy work but just did not get that far. Neither of us noticed that there was no fuel filter in the bowl and I have never owned equipment like this before and probably assumed that there was a filter inline somewhere but that was not the case. Jay had removed the injectors and fuel lines to clear them all as well as the tank to flush it out the best he could. I brought an ultrasonic cleaner home from work to thoroughly clean out the injectors being careful to keep all components with each injector. Jay installed a new fuel filter. Someone on this forum noticed that the first cylinder injector pump plunger was not aligned and I managed to get it all squared back up. Probably just lucky by aligning it in to the same position as the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. Ran fine to get it across the yard and then for an hour or two later in the week to did a short trench but then it started lagging real hard under load and blowing a lot of black smoke. Figured out that the injectors were not seated/sealed well and fuel was leaking past two injectors also allowing air in. I ordered a couple of seats and insulating protectors and changing them out so now we have great seals on the injectors. The 2nd injector was still leaking a tiny bit and I added two wraps of teflon tape around the seat and insulator. I am not sure if it will eventually melt but it gave us that seal that we needed. While replacing the injector seats and insulators I noticed that the 3rd injection pump valve holder was a little loose. I took it out and opened the front cover to make sure that it was still aligned with 1st and 2nd and reassembled it. At this point we can start the machine and it will idle. If we increase the rpm it stays high even when we put the throttle back to idle. If we pull the fuel feed line at the injector pump it stalls out pretty fast so we installed a fuel shut off in that position but if we turn the fuel off there it continues to run on. It appears that the engine somehow is pulling fuel back through the return lines to keep running unless we stop the fuel feed and allow air into the system. Other than not shutting down it seems to be running pretty good with no smoke. Considering adding another fuel shut off to the return side and closing both when we need to power it down just so I can use it. Is this a bad idea? I have already lost a summer of projects because of this and really need to get a couple things done before winter. How bad do you thin it is monkeyed up at this point? Is there something simple that we can look for or try?
U lost a summer of projects because your to stubborn to get it FIXED RIGHT.. The reason its running away is>> when u "moved" the segment, either the segment is off a tooth or the barrel sheared its locating pin when u were monkeying around, moving the segment.. Is there a separate shut off lever on the pump.?? or is the throttle also the shut off.?? IF u take it to a local fuel shop, they're gonna charge u 500.00 + for a new pump housing PLUS the cost of a rebuild.. & associated parts.. IF u send it to SC.. "that guy" will FIX the housing.. What about the injectors.. u frigged w/ them too.. Stop ni**er riggin **** & pull the pump AND the injectors.!!! I hear "that guy" in SC has a VERY FAST turn around time..
I live in a town of about 220 people. It is not like I am surrounded with people who specialize in old Yanmars. Why would the pump housing need to be replaced? I did not force anything in the pump so I am not sure how a locating pin could have been sheared. If we take off the front cover and move the governor lever that slides the control rack all three control pinions turn at the same time. If you are talking about the plunger barrel I did not see any pin when it was out earlier and wondered why there was a hole in the side of it. I did't worry about it because I did not see one in the exploded view of the service manual for that engine. There is a fuel shut off operated by a solenoid when you turn the hey off. We tested the spray on the injectors after cleaning them and they are firing just fine and sealed well now so I do not think they are the problem. I have been told that if I pull the pump then I need to indicate the engine and pump first. I am mechanically minded and can build a small block Chevy with ease but I am obviously not a diesel guy so I wouldn't know where to start without some guidance. I certainly did not intend to have my machine broken and have been doing my best to try and clean out the fuel system and replace any parts that I find need it. I am just trying to learn more seeing how I now own some older equipment. Who is "that guy"? If you are referring to yourself your sales/service techniques are a bit rusty... lol You went from offering me a job in one post to telling me I n**ger rigged it in the next. lol Approximately what would it cost to get fixed?
You know the old saying about 1 f-up, erases all those at'aboys.?? Look thru the oil fill & see how the pump is driven.. Gear.?? I'm not sure if u have access to the front of that pump or not..?? {a plate infront of the pump} The way I would do it w/ no books is>> Remove the side cover on the pump.. roll the engine over by hand until # 1 roller tappet just started to rise.. Rock it back & forth until your happy w/ its location.. MARK the pump hsg & engine block & then figure out how to disconnect the pump from the block & drive. IDK if the gear will com out w/ the pump or if u have to go thru the front to disconnect it.?? Take some pics..
I have a fairly busy schedule this week but if weather permits I will try and work on it Wednesday afternoon. Here is a picture that I took of the pump yesterday. I will get more if the sun is still out when I get home tonight. Can you give me a ballpark on price? I am willing to bet it is most likely an alignment issue but then again, what do I know. lol
Prvt Msg sent..