After you run it about an half hour the engine gets hot. Does it matter which way the fan is turned to blow out or suck the air in through the rad. I had the rad roded out and new cap and themastat.
There are a ton of things this could be. Are all of the seals around the radiator and shroud as well as the seal on top of the radiator in place? If the air from the fan goes around rather than through the radiator it will overheat. I see this all of the time especially on older machines like the -3s. Any other issues? Such as hydraulic issues?
I don't think their is a seal on top of the radiator I will check the seals. Does the fan push the air out of the engine compartment through the radiator or draw it in like a car? I don't think it has any hydraulic problems that I know of. It will cool down if you stop using it and just let it set and run for about five or ten minutes.
the pc200 has are seal in the pumps that stop the oil getter to the bellhousingit if that seal go to much oil get in the bellhousing and burns out the speed sensor and make motor over work as it think under load and the governers come off the way to check is to check the level plug on the bellhousing by let excess oil go it may work ok until the oil builds up
The overheating seems to be a common theme on the now older Komatsus, I have a -5. They're fine when new but cooling seems to be close to marginal and the little things add up. I've seen a lot of machines running with the engine cover propped up. I had the same problem after about 5 years, it would want to creep the temp up. Replacing all the seals around the radiator and really really cleaning the oil and crud in the fins on the oil cooler brought it back to the way it used to be.
This is very common and I've replaced several sensors over the years because of oil contamination. We started draining the oil out the level plug periodically and the sensors last 2 0r 3 years. I was going to have the seal replaced but the cost was quite a bit and the mechanic seemed to think it wouldn't last long anyway. Our manual doesn't even mention checking the oil there so we were clueless till we started losing sensors. On the -5 at least the computer lowers engine speed when the sensor fails so you know something is up.
Thanks for the replys I will check the seals around the radiator. What about the engine fan does it matter witch way it is turned? I know that on a dozer you can turn the fan either way. But not sure on the trackhoe the way the engine is down in a whole and can't get much air.
Most ive seen and im almost positive the 200-3 is the same will use pull through fans.
Just a word on fan orientation. It's a common mistake to think that if you install a fan the wrong way, it will blow in the opposite direction. In fact it will still blow the same way but will move the air with the "back" of the blades and therefore be very inefficient. As far as the PC200-3 overheating goes, I agree with everyone who points to the seals. Check that the foam seals are in place between the radiator and hyd cooler and also underneath the radiator pack and between the radiator and the engine cover. This very problem took me a week to track down sometime back in about 1990. I've also run across the same problem on Cat B series HEXs. Good luck.....
I've run into this a couple of times on trucks, the fan installed backwards and everything seems right but it wants to overheat. The first time was really hard to figure out. Of course the second time was easy and I looked like a hero. There are an extensive number of seals around the radiator. You really should see no daylight around the edges.
I can relate to that. We replaced the nylon fan on our generator with an aluminium fan. It would only fit one way, because it would hit the water pump, if fitted the other way around. It worked OK but we always had trouble on really hot days, keeping it cool. A chap pointed out to us one day that the fan was the wrong way around, we hadn't given it a thought, because that was the only way it would fit and we didn't have time to stop and change it. Earlier this year we took it off and had a spacer machined and drilled to stand the fan out from the water pump and fitted it back, the right way around. I could not believe the difference in the air flow that it pulled through the radiator and now the temperature guage hardly moves. RnR.
Komatsu excavators all have that problem with the radiator. The dirt and debris is the foremost problem because unless you pull off the house pan under the radiator the dirt and debris will not drop out when you blow the fins. You blow and wash the thing all day and as soon as you start the machine back up the debris gets sucked back up into the fins. The other problem stated is the oil in the bell housing. The rear main on the engine usually starts leaking and fills up the compartment which causes a lot of heat. It can get so hot that the paint will be burned off the bell housing. That of course cooks out the shaft seal on the pump as well and now you have oil leaking from both sides. It does burn out the speed sensor which does take the machine out of H mode. Many operators never know the difference and just keep running the machine. The engine does burn more fuel and the speed of the hydraulics is reduced. It's not an expensive fix considering what you have to do. Generally I put a vacuum on the hydraulic tank and pull the suction from the pump. I've made plates that clamp over the suction and plugs and caps for hoses. The pump comes out in about an hour and a half. The flywheel comes off and I generally use a slide hammer and some screws to remove the main seal. I install a speedy sleeve and new seal. As I recall the pump on this size machine has a retainer for the shaft seal that you unbolt and pull out. Change the seal and O ring and start going back together. It usually never took more than six hours to do the job depending on your lifting equipment. The last heating issue is the adjustment of the pumps. The control system is a negative flow load sensing system that uses the differential between two inputs from the main control valves. That differential is controlled by a jet sensor relief. Over time the springs in those reliefs get a little week and the pressure lowers causing the pumps to come on stroke a little which loads the engine slightly. At any rate you need someone that can adjust that system to bring it back to factory specs as much as possible. Since it is an old Dash 3 there might be enough leakage in the system that you have to settle with what you can get. Good Luck!
For Mr John C.Dear sir i have a PC280LC-3,and my problem is how to ajust the jet sensors,how much pressure sould i have,how to anjust the regulator of the pump and how can i measure the delivery of each pump?i think it has HPV90 hydraulic pump.can you please help me?where i can find the workshop manual of this machine?
No one has mentioned it but make sure your coolant mixture is at the correct ratio.
Why do you think you need to adjust the jet sensors? Why would you want to change the pump outputs? What you are asking is kind of difficult to explain on the internet. It also sounds like you not thoroughly knowledgable in the basics of the system. What ever I try to tell you here would most likely result is some big problems if you misunderstand me and I don't want to make your situation worse. I would suggest you do a little research on your own and ask some specific questions as you need answers. A question like "where are the jet sensor reliefs" are a lot easier to answer than "how do I optimize the performance of my hydraulic system". Good Luck!