Hi All, I have just replaced my engine (V1505) in my Kubota Excavator. I replaced the engine because it was loosing compression and eventually would not start. when I removed the engine I also removed the hydraulic pump that is mounted on housing. I removed all hydraulic fluid at this time, which was emptied via the hydraulic hoses that go from the tank to the pump. The Boom and bucket were out stretched when it would not start so I left it like that for a couple of months until now. During this time the cab has rotated about 45 degrees due to pressure from the bucket/boom position because I tracked the excavator off the driveway without being able to lift the boom or bucket off the ground. This caused the bucket to stay in position and over time the pressure caused the cab and swing to rotate. I have now replaced the engine which seems to be working fine but now I have no power to my boom, bucket, swing nor will the cab rotate: Banghead. I can track forward and backwards. The push blade still operates up and down perfectly with enough power to lift the unit. I had no issues with the hydraulics before replacing the engine. I have just put new Hydraulic fluid in which is still just below the glass view level but it is above the Filters. I am thinking I need to bleed the lines/cylinders after such a long period under pressure? I am new to excavators and any help/suggestions would be great... Many thanks your time is greatly appreciated.
Hi, same thing happened to me long time ago and I did exactly what u thinking, bleeding the lines. Check the breather also it might be clogged or maybe some valve is stuck
You shouldn't need to bleed the cylinders. Does it have separate pumps for the travel/blade/dig functions? Sounds like you need to bleed the pump.
Sounds to me like a joystick problem, or safety interlock? Are the joystick controls linkage, hydraulic pilot, or electric?
Thank you all very much I will go now and try these things. rockfall what did your issue end up being? did the above mentioned solve your problem? Deeretracks I will bleed the pump first as it was taken apart when the engine was out and has not been bled. lantraxco To be honest I am not sure it is a 93 model grey import. I will have a look and see what I can find. any suggestions on how I may be able to tell? Thanks again all I will keep you posted!
UPDATE So I bled the pump that is connected to the engine, checked the lines to the bucket and boom which all had fluid. lantraxco I checked the joystick controls which have about 6 hydraulic lines going to the one on the left. I think you are correct and that it is a joystick problem I am not getting any power to the joysticks at all. Any suggestions on what this could be caused from? I also notice the safety lever is not moving the hydraulic part in the housing. The lever moves up and down but does not move the hydraulic part. The part next to it that is connected to the foot pedal that controls/changes the swing arm to cab rotate moves up and down in the housing. The safety lever hydraulic part seems to be stuck in the operate position when compared to the swing arm hydraulic part. I am not sure if the safety lever was working when the engine failed as I never used it. Does anyone know if the stuck safety lever part would be the reason for not getting power to the joysticks? If so what is the best thing to use to free the stuck part. If not what else should I be looking for relating to the joysticks receiving/sending power. I will keep trying and keep you all posted. Thanks again in advance.
lantraxco I think you are onto something please see my update below and let me know your thoughts. Many Thanks
I'm waiting to see how this plays out. I know nothing about this model, but along the lines of the comments by Lantraxco, I've worked on a number of mini-ex machines that still drive and operate the blade when the safety lever circuit is off and locking out boom functions.
Well, we've established that it's hydraulic pilot. Now lacking a schematic, I think you need to trace the lines, should be a pressure line to each joystick, probably teed together at the safety valve? If you can, take a picture of what that area looks like where the safety lever is supposed to operate the spool. On the other hand it may be nothing more than air in the pilot lines, if you can identify which line is supposed to supply pressure at the joystick, try loosening it slightly and see if you get any air, or at least some oil pressure coming out maybe?
Ok when work was done and lines opened were they left open or capped ...empty system sometimes gets moisture and water causes big problems ...sounds like a valve stuck got to remember oiled system works great with oil ...no oil and condersation is HEAD ache
Problem solved Hi all, First of all Thank you all for taking the time to reply to my thread and sharing your knowledge. well this is embarrassing. After many hours going through the lines and :Banghead I went over everything I connected to the engine after swapping it. So I was told that a particular electrical connection was for the water temperature. After connecting it to the oil pressure gauge electrical connection I got power to my controls and all worked as normal :spaz. However this led to another problem, I now have no oil pressure gauge connected so I took out the oil pressure gauge halfway to measure the thread so I could get one with two connections. when I screwed the pressure gauge back in it split the bolt housing which is part of the block. :crying Looking back I probably could have simply earthed the hydraulic connection to any part of the engine and left the oil pressure gauge connected where it was. My plan to fix it now is to cut the bolt housing just beyond the crack and make a new thread. Luckily it seems the hole is about 5cm's deep and the cracks (top and bottom) seem to go about 3cm in. I think this is the best option so as to stop any further cracks or fractures. Any ideas on cracked bolt housings?
Sorry to resuurect a very old thread but I'm hoping that you can help me. I have a KX-030 Serial number 10260 with the V1505 engine. It has developed a serious water leak and I can't tell whether it's the water pump or just a split hose that goes from the pump to the rad as it's well hidden away. This is where the problem lies as I can't see how to remove the rad, I know you must have done this in order to swap the engine and was hoping that you could let me know how to do it? Thanks, Lawrence