A friend bought this thing at the auction, maybe accidentally - I don't know how, I have heard a lot of stories. Anyways, first the engine blew up and had to get rebuilt. Then it ran for a bit and quit again. I saw that it was sitting for a while so I offered to fix it for him if he would let me use it. I rebuilt the injection pump (plungers were seized up), and after half a can of starting fluid to finally purge the air from the lines, it would start and run well. I came to pick it up and it won't start - bad battery. Friend goes and gets a new battery. I come to pick the thing up again - the "new" battery is also dead. I leave the charger there, and later that day it cranks right up. I am standing beside it, waiting for the motor to warm up, when all of a sudden, the left side wheels start turning all on their own. It happens to drive exactly right over my battery charger, heading right for a container with glass windows. I jumped right into it, and gave the left lever a good yank, but the machine didn't care - no reaction. It just kept on rolling by itself. I shut the engine down right before disaster. The left side control lever is unusually stiff. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks
Firstly, you really shouldn't use starting fluid for long periods of time. It can cause pre ignition and detonation, Damage piston tops, wash down rings. Follow manufactures procedures for bleeding air off. If your unsure how. U tube has plenty of videos I'm guessing. Especially on a new eng. The machine should not move if no one is in drivers seat, so you might want to check seat interlock switch, aka as occupant safety switch. Im guessing this is a non pilot hydraulic controlled machine. Then linkage could be seized on drive control some where, probably under floor boards. Do both sides if your in there. It always scares me when someone try's to stop a vehicle, or in this case, a skid steer, by jumping in the cab when moving. As Jeremy Renner found out the hard way. Work safe is my point, if your new to heavy equipment. It'll hurt you. Welcome to forum
Well, CAV pumps are a pain to bleed. Some people just put their tractors in gear and tow them around to get the air out. Can't do that on a skid loader. Yes I tried loosening the injection lines and probably drained half the tank of fuel from the bleeder ports. Only brute force got the air out. It was really cold too, well below freezing, so I couldn't crank too long before the battery would die. Basically the machine has a bunch of stuff bypassed. The seatbelt switch is quite busted. I dont remember the exact word to describe this thing. The computer is probably long gone so it spends its time in service mode. I told the owner though that I wasn't going to touch it until the parking brake gets fixed - yes it is also broken. Will have the floor boards pulled up and will take a look. I also heard there are some shock type thingys that control the valves?
When bleeding. I always would loosen fuel line at pump. to start with. Not go straight to injectors. Some rotary pumps have a check valve that makes getting air out difficult. Also, you need a full 12v at fuel shutoff when cranking. Check if its a 2 wire shutoff, the other wire is a ground. A jumper wire or wires can help with that, if your electrical voltage drop is questionable. There are also 2 bleed screws on the side of the pump. But I also know what its like to work in cold temperatures, makes everything twice as hard. Sounds like a project for sure.
If I have to use ether on the Cav pump on my tractor when changing filters it only takes 1 shot. I don't always need it though. I make sure there's lots of air free fuel coming out the bleed holes on the pump. Loosening the lines at the injectors is difficult to get at under the hood. I find the Kubota in my skid steer harder to prime so against what some suggest I fill the fuel filter. I played around for over 20 minutes in a cold garage 1 time getting it primed. I don't use ether on the Kubota.
Well, went to mess with it today. Jacked it up on blocks so it would not run away on me. Same thing, and after running about 2 mins the left side wheels just start spinning in reverse. I let it spin for a while to make sure the hydraulic fluid was warmed up in case one of the lines was frozen. Nothing changed, the wheels kept on spinning. Yanking the lever does not do anything. It moves forward like normal, and when pushing back its very stiff. I tried disconnecting the shocks, nothing changes. I traced down the linkage to a crank which goes into the left side hyd. pump. What do I do now?
Never worked on that model or brand in my life but from what you're describing it sounds like its a fully mechanical linkage from the drive joysticks to the pump? In that case the lever you see on the pump controls the swash plate angle in the pump. Bet it probably just needs an adjustment so that when the joystick is in neutral the pump swash plate is also in neutral IE not pumping fluid. I'm sure someone on here probably knows how to correctly adjust that. Post some good pictures of the linkages and the minds here can probably get it figured out.
It's possible something came disconnected or broke. I had the arm that clamps on the shaft from the pump break at the weld. Very lucky I was able to get in there to weld it. I had a wet rag on the pump to drip water on the shaft so the seals wouldn't get too hot. Would have been almost impossible to remove since there was also a roll pin holding it on the shaft.
Double post
Try looking directly were the crank attaches to pump shaft, there has to be either a rollpin or the crank is splined to the shaft. It could be the roll pin is broken. Or the pump shaft could be broken internally. Did you say it will turn in forward direction. unclear on that part. Grab it with vise grips if possible and manualy engage.
no, what I meant was the joystick moves freely only forward, moving it back it is very stiff and even gets stuck in the back position. The position of the joystick does not have any effect on the left side wheels, they always start spinning backwards 2 minutes or so after starting the engine.
Sure seems like something is disconnected.
As soon as I read that, I thought the same thing. Its a process of elimination Alexie. Ultimately, you need to verify that the trans is capable of going in forward. You no it goes backwards. So eliminate linkage altogether, (temporarily), and work right at the pump, if its possible. What does right side do.