Finally got around to finding a couple of these to have. Bought an older Magnum 6kW Kohler engine, pancake generator, and an Allmand 8kW Mitsubishi engine, unsure about the generator. I've read around a little, seems like a guy needs to be careful if using them harder as a generator, can burn the windings if a guy doesn't balance the load? The Magnum with the Pancake generator only has the 120V outlet, but I know it's possible to hook up a 240. Will running the lights at the same time as plugging a load in the outlet do what's needed? I have been running everything to plug in the excavators on one 20 amp circuit, but I'd like to add another 600 watts or so, currently at about 2100, which is right around 19 amps.
@Birken Vogt I could use some of your insight when you get a moment. Thanks
Gen end should be rated for all the lights on and full output at the outlets. I wouldn't worry one second about an unbalanced load on that small of a unit, unless you're running something with a large inrush. More than likely a 4 lead stator, so no options for voltage reconnection, just need to see if you have 240vac available from T1 to T4. Are you looking to run your excavators block heaters off of it, or what else?
Yes, for now the only thing I'm planning is resistive loads. Block heaters, magnetic heaters, tank heaters. Maybe a battery charger. If I ever can find a circulating hydraulic oil heater to add to my hoes, that would be involved too. Right now, if I need to plug in both hoes, the 290 has a 1000 watt block heater, and I have three 300 watt and two 250 watt magnetic heaters on the 210, for a total of 2400 watts. It will run all night just fine on a 20 A line power outlet, but that load would max out the draw on this light plant outlet. This is the situation I am concerned about. I have heard of people using them for backup power for the house, 6kW would obviously be a little light, but if managed properly could work? Fridge, one deep freeze at a time, couple sump pumps? It theoretically could run a 5000 watt water heater or stove in my mind, but that's where my questions start.
You'll be limited by the amp ratings of the outlet circuit breakers more than anything else. It always seems to be the intial heating of a coil when cold that can trip the breaker, especially with multiple things plugged in. I have a Kubota powered 7kw unit that ran the 2 bedroom house we were in at the time off of a 30A twist lock outlet. 2x fridge/freezers, water heater, central heat, lights, tv, etc. Electric stove burner lugged it down, but hadn't been dialed in on a load bank at that time. 6-7kw will power quite a bit in a regular home.
New question, I can't find anywhere in the manual what oil is recommended for the Mitsubishi engine in these 6kW plants. I changed it, put 5-40 synthetic DEO, maybe it's my imagination but it cranks longer to start, like doesn't have as much compression as it did with the old oil.
Maybe it just turns over more and faster with the lighter oil and seems like it’s longer.
The Pancake 8KW head I have did not seem to care about light loads on the single leg. My light plant also has a 240V 30A breaker and plug to get 7200W out of it, and is rated as a 7.5Kw genset. What I do advise is running the lights on it periodically to put a proper load on it.
If it has to turn over more, doesn't that suggest it doesn't make as much compression? I guess I'm hoping that the synthetic oil isn't causing the rings to not seal as well. I've ran it over 30 hours since the change, it hasn't used any so that is half the battle in my mind.
I've been running the lights the whole time I've been running it. We have an outdoor skating rink, since it's the holidays I have been lighting it until midnight each night. When I get to using it to keep block heaters going, I'll figure out how much wattage and run a light or two to keep decent load on it.
you could even balance the plug load that way too.
I’m never a fan of switching anything to synthetic oil after it has run in Dino oil for a while. Seems it creates leaks and is too damn slippery in my opinion. I love Mobile 1 and use it in a lot of stuff but I have blown up a snow blower and a riding mower with it. Both were within 2 minutes of start up and neither governer failed. Just a little too high in RPM’s and smoke and a window, instant oil slick. Have 2 generators, make that 3, including my Miller, that get straight 30 weight Dino.
Mitsu manual shows the following: Class CF or CF-4: Above 20°C [68°F] SAE30 5° to 20°C [41 to 68°F] SAE20 Below 5°C [41°F] SAE10W-30 All seasons SAE10W-30 https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf5/120/11958/1195759-mitsubishi/l3e.pdf?e34456683259b91757f1c0a12a1065cc&take=binary
Think it's a bad idea running 5-40 when it's -5 to 40F?
No but not sure why you’re running that in a generator. Those Mitsubishi engines have bearing clearances that dictate a heavier oil.
It doesn't say in the manual, only thing I found online said 30 wt. I know better than that, I do plan on using it this winter, felt the 5-40 would pump a whole lot better than 10-30 in this little engine.
Our tower with a 7k, I think, pancake will run the lights and a miller 200 multimatic or a couple grinders, even before we converted it to LED. It's hooked to a Kubota, 10w-30 is their normal spec too so I usually feed it T5 Rotella since we use that in all the Honda gas engines and other kubota stuff I've got. Its been run up north in the winter without issues on the 10w-30.
Seems like these things are pretty underrated, which makes sense because if they weren't, there would probably be an abnormally high failure rate.
I have a Mitsubishi L3E tower with a pancake generator. It is not currently running, bad injector pump. I was wondering what people's thoughts where on those generators. They are brushless right? Are they a reliable generator head. I would be using mine for backup and prime power. I think mine is 6kw.
From what I've been able to find, as long as you keep them at or below that 6kW, they seem to be good for close to 20k hours. Like any generator, the higher the load, the more heat produced, and the shorter the lifespan of the windings. It's why I've asked the question about making sure things are balanced. I have to build a splitter for the 240V plug, and make sure the guys don't plug into the factory 120V volt outlet unless they are using both sides of the 240, and then, no more than 1000 watts.
Glow plug indicator. Anyone know if these stop working, are the plugs disabled? It appears that might be the case by my research, but I haven't put a meter to the plugs yet to see if there is voltage when I turn the switch. I wouldn't think this little Mitsi would start at -5F without any plug action, but it does, even though it sure doesn't seem to like it.
I just went over to the plant, had to swap a light bulb out, and start it for the last night lighting our town's outdoor skating rink. I did swing the control panel open (of course, twisted off two of the three screws), and discovered the plug indicator had a bunch of melted plastic in it. Looks to have dropped down from the little board above it that holds the ballast LEDs, obvious that's the reason they don't work. Made sure all the little coils were clean and separated, checked voltage, it appears to be wired in series with the plugs. 11.4 incoming, 10.1 out. Didn't have enough hands to get a lead on the plug strip. Held the switch for 20 seconds, coil didn't get red that I could see.