This is my F-A "Alli Cat" whom has been kicked out of the barn:
Temporary shelter till the next quarter in a couple of weeks: That tarp is 20'X30' and polypropylene material. Quite a bit heavier than the blue, or silver tarps marketed as "heavy duty" in the home centers. This one was a bit more expensive but wind storms destroyed two other tarps of lesser quality. Menards, (home center) warrants these tarps for five years against tearing and they are easy to work with on their products. I ran thick cardboard edge protectors around the perimeter of the ROPS, limb risers, blade corners, etc. These were adhered with "Gorilla Tape" before pulling the tarp over with a helper. No sharp edges this way and with quite a few bungee straps in the welded grommets to attachment points, it's quite rigid. Just before starting to work with the tarp, and just after pulling the older tarp away, I took this short video. This is the second engine start in just over a month with the first being less than ten minutes prior and only running about 10 seconds which was long enough to raise the blade six inches to extract the remnants of the original blue tarp. It's 28 degrees outside and no ether:
Those were great machines in their day. Keep it forever!
Yes, plan to keep this one a good many years. 10 year old granddaughter has even offered to show me how to use and run it.
I purchased the dozer, and the former owner used the $$$ and a few more to put a new snowblade onto his John Deere compact tractor from Compact Tractor Attachments. I made the hydraulic hoses for him but he is awaiting couplers for the tractor side: I have no affiliation with that company but have seen many of their offerings. All are first rate quality: https://www.ctattachments.com/
Good looking machine! Speaking of HD tarps, I purchased a bulk piece from BillboardTarps.com to make underpinning for my mother's 5th wheel RV. I purchased the medium thickness at about 19 mils. That is some really tough stuff that should last for at least 5 years or longer. 8'x87' ran me just under $200 with tax and delivery for brand new material. I thought that was pretty fair. For making custom panels and HD fold overs, I was able to use vinyl cement on this material and everything worked great. It's so much tougher than any of those typical blue tarps they sell at most stores. With the vinyl cement, I can put in clear vinyl windows, zipper sections and other closures/custom cuts as needed. It was a good learning experience.
Thanks!! That is the company I'm dealing with now for some sandblast curtains to depaint a couple of building exteriors. Nice folks. Good to hear positive of their products. I'm looking at their 20oz material, (22mil) PVC coated on both sides. A friend with a commercial sewing machine and grommet press is going to help me out to make 8'X30' curtains to hang from an overhead trolley to form a containment structure for blast dust. He is going to make a custom fitted cover for this tractor once it's back at my shop and inside. That green tarp was 11mil and a bit much for a single guy to handle by oneself so something twice as thick is a challenge to overcome. Thank you for the reference.
Diaper kept the baby dry during the snow, sleet, ice combination we endured yesterday. That polypropylene tarp seems to be a good one being on there and stretched taught for the past several days. No water in the operator station at all.
Referring to that picture of the blade on the little JD mounted on the loader, i would recommend to never do that. I have seen loaders bent and twisted from catching hidden obstacles, or having one corner dig into something, even with a spring-trip blade. The skid shoes help but it can still happen. The operator will have to be very careful and avoid trying to plow fast. Those loaders weren't designed for that application
You are very correct; thank you. I've straightened/repaired many myself from as you say, someone not being careful when plowing. Farmers do the same thing when using a chore tractor far in excess of it's design limits, and off center work with a loader frame/bucket, or forks. This setup is actually his "small" unit. He also has a 65hp farm tractor with an 8' stainless snowplow blade on the loader and really is experienced with it's use. The land they cleared with the dozer has an access lane over a thousand yards in length into the property they keep open during the winter for the four family dwellings contained within. The larger tractor does well but is far too unwieldy to use in confined areas. This tractor was purchased to bridge that gap. He told me the dozer does great moving snow along with the rocks, shrubs, mailboxes, etc. so went with a tractor.....
I worked for a guy that had 3 HD11 when i was in school. I would like to have one there isnt any thing that i havent had apart several times on them.
I'm certainly hoping nothing has to come apart on this tractor for a while but you never know. Tony tells me the transmission does seep a little fluid but it's not a fast leaker, and at the last service before Dunmire Equip. closed up shop, they told him to keep running it. New year starts in a few days along with new insurance and coverage to operate my truck again. Also looking at a 5 acre parcel with a couple of buildings more equidistant between all family members this tractor would find use at. Myself being west of the Illinois river and all segments of family east doesn't make a lot of sense any longer. Got four granddaughters all approaching horse interest age and this place was a former stable so could fit right in with a house constructed.
Temperature looks to be above freezing this weekend so may bring tractor to the shop then. Don't really want to move it with all the ice on the secondary roads I'll be traveling during the move.
I've discovered this tractor is 100% Allis-Chalmers engineering with Fiat rebranding. Given it's mine, I've made the decision to rebrand it back to an Allis-Chalmers HD-11 Series B and it will emblazoned as such. I stopped by a buddy's house whom retired from the Springfield, IL plant and he showed me a corporate logo which would have been affixed to this tractor series in the early 1970's prior to the Fiat merger. I now have the proper colors of the logo, and font sizing for replication for the lady that does my sign work. For all but the ultimate "purists" out there, it will be fine.
Does anybody know if an AC 10000 series engine intake manifold is the same as used on an 11000 AC engine?
This is the style manifold I'm on the hunt for. Photo is an ebay screen grab of an 11000 series manifold but has the AC script I'm looking for: This is my engine manifold: Decals are ordered for the rebranding. Supposed to warm up after today so looking to bring the tractor home shortly. "0" outside right now and secondary roads are still icy due to the cold.
Speaking of heavy-duty tarps, I have a neighbor who has multiple billboards around the area and they are willing and eager to give away any old billboard tarps. They are very heavy duty and are black on the back side so you don't have to continue to advertise and they're free for the taking.
Sure wish they were closer. I could use several. Any way you could find out material composition and weight per square yard? I wouldn't be against freight charges for quality material.
That;s a healthy sounding turbo!! Love it!
Tony tells me it really "sings" with a good push on the blade too. I can imagine from the limited amount I've heard the engine run at idle it is going to sound good at work. I have been asked to do a couple of small jobs later in the spring with the tractor. Neither involve moving dirt other than pushing a small hole full and are more of a parade, or celebration thing. However, I'm willing to showcase the tractor in this endeavor as it will be sporting fresh paint, upholstery, and Allis-Chalmers decals/logos.
Cant wait to see it on the trailer & heading for home!! Perhaps this week sometime??
Yes, I sure hope so. I'm salivating over this thing being there, and not here. Was near treacherous driving home at 1:15am this morning with it being 33 degrees, very humid, and foggy. Plenty of sliding action to be had and the salt trucks were running wild. Awakening this morning I see the temperature is 21degrees and is to drop all day to about 12 in the overnight hours. I'm afraid "Global Warming" is in full swing right now.....
Wondering what you used for cement?
https://www.amazon.com/HH-66-Vinyl-Cement-Brush-Ounce/dp/B00GIOP83Q/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?cv_ct_cx=vinyl+cement&keywords=vinyl+cement&pd_rd_i=B00GIOP83Q&pd_rd_r=22dc9d30-68c3-4ccd-9657-c87a43ac5283&pd_rd_w=8QtY5&pd_rd_wg=J7GMx&pf_rd_p=53ef7f8b-c1cb-4ebe-8d67-39f3ca0ebaf7&pf_rd_r=047Z54FDVCVQ7NPT6NZR&qid=1641747111&sr=1-1-5e1b2986-06e6-4004-a85e-73bfa3ee44fe&th=1 That's what I used and it works really well. Sort of like gluing up PVC piping but you have to let the glue set a little longer prior to putting the pieces together. It bonds permanently.
I have used their contact adhesive to install vinyl roofs on automobiles for years. My only experience with their products but they have been good. Nice to have a second opinion too and another product for the need. Thanks,
Went over this afternoon to check if I'd switched the master disconnect to the off position as it's been a couple of weeks since being there and couldn't remember doing it. Sure enough I left it on but the batteries are not depleted so can't be much of a parasitic draw to the machine. As a check, I did push the starter button and the engine readily spun over. I don't have her untarped, so not going to start the engine. I did cut a section of the upholstery fabric loose under the seat pan to use for comparison to acquire replacement material. It is some sort of pebble grain material but quite heavy duty in appearance.
Here is a tractor I transported to a repair facility for a bent/twisted loader frame late last week, and returned yesterday. This time the right loader arm and hydraulic cylinder have been replaced along with parts in the quick attach plate apparatus. I don't know why he is so hard on equipment as that is the second time this one has been to the shop for straightening up the loader. The mower deck on the rear and tractor were new in late 2020 and the mower has been extensively damaged and reworked/modified also from damage. I rebuilt the mower deck the first time after he caved it in badly on a tree stump and when he did it again basically undoing what I had done and then some, I made my exit: Lot of heat, beat, jacking, and clamping to get that mower deck straightened up along with new caster wheels and fork replacements, and all the safety chains across the back. The very next mowing, he did the same and more again. I don't know why.
New parts bolted back onto it easily but the very next week, all was undone and quite a bit more damage inflicted.
Sounds like the guy shouldn't go near machinery.....
Oh man. The latest is he was ditching and back blading the snow from his driveway approaches yesterday and hooked the corner of the blade on the buried culvert. Having enough momentum/energy the lower three point arm pulled it's welded mount from the tractor. I guess it is an oily mess so I'm assuming he broke the rear axle housing/casting. Tractor is a 2021 New Holland Workmaster 55 I delivered new last year. I've only entertained the telephone call and have yet to see the damage. Oh well, the scenario repeats but it's gonna be tough getting warranty coverage for this one.....
Doesn't look like I'm going to be bringing her home anytime soon. This tractor was used to build a sunken pond a few years ago and a retaining wall erected on the side to support both a dock, and diving platform as the platform was built over the retaining wall extending over the water. To the south, the driveway to the building this tractor was formerly housed in is about 10' higher than the water level with the driveway looking more like it runs atop a levee. With the freeze/thaw cycles, and all the rain we've had of late, the retaining wall is beginning to "push out" or collapse under the platform. Not catastrophic at this time but these kind of things don't usually heal themselves. I suspect the wall wasn't secured back into the earth behind the wall and/or proper drainage was not installed to keep some of the ground pressure off the back side. They have a larger Bobcat mini ex and I have my skid steer and dump truck so we'll get it repaired before much, if any damage is incurred. We can drain the pond without issue but it will take a few days using my trash pumps I'd think. I know they did the work themselves and I've not seen anything up close but am certainly going to help with the project. The 11B will be an integral player to get the project back where it needs to be. From this view you can see some things I've spoken of in the past. The property the homesteads are on, the access lane to get to them, the pond, and the layout: Zoomed in the view does not show the dock but does show the existing routing. Photo has to be very old: The top of the photos are oriented north. Yellow is the dock and retaining wall which in the photo has yet to be built. Red shows driveway. Blue circle shows storage building where dozer was kept for 25+ years. Green in the upper rt. of the photo is where the dozer sits now wrapped up tight: A thing of beauty, No? All the dwellings shown and two more not shown are family.
Looks like a sizable amount of work for you there!!
Hopefully it will progress smoothly. Next warm up they are going to remove as much of the decking and supports as possible and store it back in the barn for reassembly. No need to wait for a collapse when you know it's imminent. I'm sure insurance would cover something like that but these folks think like I do and we have become quite good friends. Getting anxious to get this old girl back out for some exercise:
That truck sure is clean!!
Truck is a 1951 and I purchased it from the original owner's estate just north of Los Angeles, CA back in the mid 1990's. Not a single rust hole in the sheet metal. Runs like a top and will haul dirt spilling over all sides slow but steady.
Found this on ebay and purchased it. No dealership markings at all and very clean for the age; 1972: This is a very stiff cardboard brochure and will serve very well for "rebranding" my Fiat-Allis 11-B tractor back to Allis-Chalmers HD-11 Series B. The brochure has enough detail for proper scaling to ensure I get the placarding correct. I've also located the proper intake manifold with the "Allis-Chalmers" script cast into it to replace the original and bare manifold. I have several unstamped aluminum serial number tags to replace the Fiat-Allis tags for the small touches.
Planning to go from this: Back to this: Nothing is missing from my tractor so should be quite easy. Only the push blade is ribbed a little from work over the years will be the only defect but it will be good enough for who it's for.....
Talked to former owner and the tarp is holding up admirably. No looseness anyplace and we've had sustained high winds and he had over 15" of snow at his place. The tarp must really absorb heat however as he sent me a video of plowing snow and I can see the tarped dozer towards the end and there isn't any snow on it. We've had several days of sunny and low teens since the snow on Monday however. Dark green tarp so kinda blends into the background:
With the high winds the snow probably blew off the tarp. We had a storm here a few weeks ago with high wind and the tops of berms were bare, as were rooftops.
I'm sure you are right about the winds playing a part. I'm very happy the rubber bungee straps are holding everything tight but I really anchored everything well so no flapping. I'm told nothing is loose, as I left it. I should have the replacement 20SI alternator this week. I'm going to replace the original 10DC type which is externally regulated with the more modern variant. Also doubling the current value from 20A to 45A for additional lighting. Tony had consistent problems with the batteries not recharging and had the existing alternator rebuilt, but the problem persists. I've not performed any troubleshooting myself but given the limitations imposed by the 20A rating, and my desire for additional lighting and electrical loading, it is best to upgrade capacity and do away with the external voltage regulator. From our conversations I think a tree branch got into the engine compartment and damaged the wiring harness. He had a branch take out the engine shutdown cable also which has been replaced. No side screens on the tractor and he did a lot of clearing work.
It’s because he thinks you can use and abuse and it should take it. People think a tractor is equivalent to a D-9. I’ve seen the mentality far too often and they just want to run it as fast and hard as possible and damn the consequences. We don’t have time to slow down and be a little more gentile, we have to run around in top gear slamming it into stuff. way back in the day worked worked with an idiot who thought the way to take down small trees with a tractor and front end loader was to take a running start in the highest gear and build up speed and Ram them at 11 mph.
I really don't know what motivates this gents behavior. Lack of any common sense certainly is one way to look at it but he grew up at the farm lived upon, in the same house raised in. He is nothing like his siblings and they do not get along at all. Don't know the ins and outs of that but there is no family unity since the patriarch has passed whom was a very successful farmer/investor. In fact he has used a portion of his inheritance to purchase surrounding acreage to what he was left in the estate from siblings. I've heard this guy has kids and they have nothing to do with him also but no direct experience on my part with anything but hauling his stuff for repair after senseless incidents.
Sure doesn't seem like a quick learner!
Gong to update this a bit: Think I finally have all the filters on the machine converted over to Wix, or Napa brand numbers that were other brands and acquired the same. Getting some of the original Allis-Chalmer's filter numbers converted was a challenge. Both parts manuals, and paper catalogs have been beneficial, along with ebay as some are not produced any longer. I've not broken open the filter cartridge containers as many of the filter element part numbers are stenciled on the original decals and these match the parts manual for the machine. Citing the tractor is 183 miles distant, I need to have everything ready to go on a single trip as don't want to be doing research once down there. It's 27 miles to the nearest good parts store In Effingham, IL, but that doesn't guarantee an "in stock" part. Digging in my garage in the back yard I also located my small, or portable solvent tank for washing small parts. Haven't seen the thing in about 20 years really but it was behind a bookcase that is shoved up against my wall shelving. I'll use this to clean the strainers when everything is apart and drained. Purchased three different thicknesses of gasket sheeting as really don't know what I'm up against here either. Also dragged out the gasket cutter, and punch set(s) as again don't know what I'm up against. I've greased the machine already but will take my portable grease gun as I'm sure there are zerks under the floor panels I've not seen, and after the steam cleaner is taken after things..... Daughter ordered me up two LED light bars to mount up under the roof of the ROPS canopy front and rear, (father's day). These offer both flood, and driving lamps. My son in law is parts manager at a John Deere construction equipment dealership so I doubt they'll be second rate lamps. Trouble is they draw more current than the current alternator will supply easily. I ordered a reman replacement 50A Delco "20SI" unit to replace the original Delco "10DN" series which is only 20A and there really isn't any additional electrical draw once the engine is started.
Don’t forget a good “head lamp” if ur working under the floor boards.. It gets “a little” dark under there.. Have fun
Yes, thank you for the headlamp recommendation. I have a really bright "NEBO" brand rechargeable headlamp received for XMAS a couple of years ago from my son in law. This one's light output is position adjustable once on your head to be where you need it. Also have three of the "Cyclops" brand rechargeable magnetic base lamps I use often which are far to bright to look at directly. These have come in handy many times to have light where needed. I've not had the front floorboard up yet but the rear one is a mess of mud under there. The belly pan(s) are loaded deeply so they will come off too.
I've probably missed much of this, but it would be a good idea to investigate your final drives and change the oil. Schaeffer would be a good choice. Don't know if your finals have filters or pumps that need to be primed after draining. Another thing to look for is a driveshaft under the floor boards. A little grease goes a long way and absence thereof can make for an expensive repair. If there's magnetic screens in the transmission circuit, clean them out when you change the filters. Do AC engines need coolant analysis to avoid damage. Lots of things to think about as you get her up and running. All covered in the manuals I presume.
Hi and thank you. All advice is good and appreciated. I don't see any pumps or filters in the finals cavities, but there are magnetic plugs which will be addressed. I do have a five gallon pail of 80W-90 gear oil, (Chevron) for the finals which is recommended. There are no leaks but I did notice a small dark dust trail which is an obvious seepage issue in the right final seal, (behind sprocket) but the reservoir only took less than a pint so may, or may not need addressed. This trail is not fresh. If it becomes a leak, it will be opened up for repair. Each final end holds about two gallons I'm told. I did grease the driveshaft universals while the floor board was up. The joints appear to be tight and nothing "jumped" when the grease was pumped in with good squeeze out at the caps which was pretty even. There are strainers in the transmission sump, and under the seat for the steering clutch/brake band, and bevel gear compartments along with filters for the same. Though I've not seen it, there is supposed to be a strainer in the hydraulic reservoir, and of course filters for the hydraulic system. The engine has a coolant conditioner filter installed and it takes the same filter as a couple of my Mack trucks do so have a few of those on hand. These are Baldwin. The ethylene glycol coolant was new the year the tractor was put up so now aged and the radiator core was solder repaired/patched a couple years prior after the owner got a tree limb into the engine compartment while backing up. The fan was replaced with a used "Huber" reversible unit, and all the front fan drive bearings were renewed at that time while everything was apart for the radiator repair as everything was opened up. I really wish I could tell what was actually done during the routine service intervals but the servicing dealer is now defunct and although I do have many receipts, they are vague in explanations. They did sell the tractor new and serviced it every October at the prior owner's property giving it whatever it needed I'm told. The prior owner is not mechanically inclined and had the tractor serviced by Dunmire Equipment from El Paso, IL who sold it new to the Otto Baum Co. out of Morton, IL. Dunmire ceased operations about eight years ago if memory serves. I have many of the original paper manuals that came with the tractor new, and also soft copies found on the internet. I use the soft copies a lot to both learn and familiarize with as can print the section needed and not worry about getting them dirty or greasy. I'm kind of "antique" in my ways and still carry a grease pencil in my shirt pocket to mark off a laminated checklist when something is serviced. Also a "Sharpie" marker to write service dates and hours on filters. Sometimes I annotate on the computer, but not always.....
I've been "scouring" the parts manual on the tractor and have come to the conclusion the filter screens have not been serviced or looked after in a long time. The tractor has transmission guards installed which need removed to service the suction screen. These obviously have not been removed in a lot of hours usage citing the amount of mud/dirt built up and laying in the guards. Here is a snip from the parts manual of the transmission case and it shows the bottom plate needing removed, (#3 in diagram) to service the screen which is shown as #7 in the diagram: This snip shows the transmission guards, (shown as #'s 1 & 3) requiring removal as the complete bottom of the transmission is covered. Removal of panel #7 will reveal the drain plug for the transmission oil, but is not large enough to remove the bottom oil pan from the transmission: This is the strainer for the steering clutches and bevel gear compartment shown as #6 in the diagram. It is over 1/2 encased in dirt/mud and the top of the housing where mounting bracket and fasteners run through was almost an inch deep buried: Again, and obviously, this strainer has not been serviced in a long time. Sitting here in front of the computer thinking of a game plan to service this tractor, it looks like I'll need to take some cribbing to run the tractor up on as there is no concrete, or hard surface to work on available. These transmission guards are less than a foot from the ground so a bit of tight clearance to work within if the tractor is not lifted. I'm sure they will be heavy with all the dirt contained also. I've purchased four 8X8X10' length timbers for the lifting task but haven't used them yet. I'm planning to bolt them together side by side with all thread, washers, and nuts to have a wide and stable platform for the machine to rest upon with the approach edges beveled 45 degrees to avoid tearout as the tractor climbs up. The 10' length is long enough the weight will be supported pretty evenly. I ordered these from a local home center and can get oak from a local sawmill but the $$$ are considerably more. If they get used often, (who knows) I may go that way, but for the one or two off needed immediately, the treated pine should suffice as they'll be kept inside when not used. Being able to assemble and take them apart in the field will allow me to move and transport without a machine also. Through the years I've discovered a 1/4" thick sheet of solid core underlayment plywood on top of a piece of 3/4" plywood serves pretty well for a floor jack or rolling drain pain without crushing through when working in the dirt, or gravel, so this trick will be used also.
Sounds like the manual doesn't say you can remove access plate No. 7 (belly pan) to access the screen. I don't see any hinges on that belly pan. Still, you might be able to drop it with lever chain hoists. String a chain from one track under the pan, hook the chain hoist to the chain and suck her up snug. Remove the bolts and reverse chain hoist to lower the belly pan. You might want to use some headless bolts as dowels to guide the pan down and keep it from moving sideways.
I don't have anything like a routine service manual, nor anything pertaining to procedural steps to be taken. All the literature I have is for parts, rebuilding the various assemblies, and undercarriage. Nothing as far as pulling the engine, or transmission from the tractor, or even removing the radiator as examples. I'd certainly like to have additional literature/manuals if could be found. As per the parts manual, the belly pans are fastened up to the frame with 1/2-13 by 1-1/4 length bolts. Was kind of thinking about using my transmission jack and blocking under them for removal to not have to fight the weight, nor rolling of the pan(s) when they start to drop. I like the guide studs idea and will cabbage onto that for the reinstallation so don't have to fight alignment. The bottom of these pans are rounded and they look to be formed from 3/16" material. I've only been under the tractor once to attempt to locate the torque converter housing drain valve mentioned in the books as an option, but the area is covered by the belly pan and no access panel. There are three belly pans on the tractor. One guards the engine from the radiator support to the middle of the tractor where the transmission guards come into play. All will be removed for cleaning. Once I get done with the steam cleaner, it will be a muddy mess underneath. Some of the buildup is over two inches thick. I'm sure the belly pans are deeper as I could not even see the strengthening ribs the parts manual shows. Planning to wash the tractor away from the area currently parked in and possibly a little out out behind the tree line just before the land falls off steeply. Thanks for any and all input. Really is appreciated.
Little further update. I shipped to my son some additional guidance derived through both the manuals and my own intuition after studying the same; and with this further information, he has the steering linkage freed up nicely I'm told. Gone is the dampening effect, or slow reengagement of the right side steering clutch assembly. Both clutch release handles are free moving and offer positive disengagement, and reengagement I'm told. Looking at this photo snip from the parts manual for the tractor: Shown in the red circles are #'s 18, 19, 32, 29, 30, and 32. All but #32 are clevis linkage ends, clevis pins, and cotter pins. #32 are return springs. The parts in the upper red circle of the photo are up under, or in front of the operators feet at the base of the cowl. The lower circle of the photo is on top of the transmission and was buried to the point you could only see the linkages exiting the area. After this mud buildup was removed with the steam cleaner, it was found the clevis pins were frozen and unable to allow the clevis ends to rotate around the clevis pin's axis where they penetrate the clevis ends causing a bind. This phenomena is what was causing the slow reengagement of the right side steering clutch. The rebound, or pullback spring shown as #'s 32 in the photo was broken on the left side steering clutch linkage. This partially explains the additional effort needed to release the right steering clutch although was slight. Having no torch available to warm the area to extract these clevis pins he called me relaying what was found. I called a cousin who ran to the property with his service truck, extracted the clevis pins and replaced the same with spares on the truck. Being from Effingham, IL, he stopped by the parts store we frequent and picked up two springs that are close in dimensions and after all new parts were installed, ran the tractor around the yard reporting the response seems to be as it should be with the steering clutches. Though the cousin had no experience operating an Allis-Chalmers dozer, he said he was quite impressed with the overall condition of the tractor and much better than many he works with. Cousin and son then removed the belly pans using my plywood sheet and transmission jack mentioned earlier. No problems here I'm told but one fastener did snap off, another was missing, and yet another was backed out a ways and caught on something solid and was bent. Front belly pan is punched pretty good so will need to straightening in a press before it goes back on. Progress as they say.....
Son brought back a few of the belly pan(s) retention fasteners so I could ascertain whether they should be reused. One look and I ordered a box each of 1/2-13 X 1", 1-1/4", and 1-1/2" length in "zinc flake plate" grade 5 to replace wholesale along with grade 8 "heavy" washers to replace all the original hardware. Many of the fasteners were corroded through to the thread root where they had penetrated the main frame and were buried in mud. Cousin was able to remove the snapped fastener by welding a "cored" extension bolt to the existing fastener and it came right out. Says he learned that from me years ago but I don't remember teaching him? Also ordered six female threaded clevis rod ends to replace the originals. These by the books are all 3/8-24tpi rh thread. Figure since there were severely corroded fasteners in this linkage assembly, I'll renew them all while apart. He did not bring the belly pans back and they lay on the ground after being pressure washed clean. The front pan which is bent up is someplace to be straightened in a press but I don't know where. When I'm down there next weekend I'll take a four ton porto power to assist in their reinstall as the sides will most likely pull in as the bottom is pushed out and leveled.
Have new bolts, heavy washers, nuts, taps, and thread chasing dies to clean up anything compromised from the effects of being old or corroded. Headed down this weekend with the supplies to both service the tractor and reassemble it. Belly pan straightened right out I'm told but I'll still take the porto power to ensure no surprises encountered can't be addressed.