Motor Grader CATERPILLAR 12G an acquaintance of mine should restore the games due to wear on a grader caterpillar, as it should. the parts are very worn and worn out, new bearing inserts soldering boring reaming what recommended thanks to those who will provide the right suggestions
Edit the photos you posted with some arrows showing where the wear is, and I will try to help. Also a machine Serial Number would be good.
la macchina è degli anni '70 / '80 come una costruzione, in sostanza quando si muove nel suo movimento si traduce il piano stradale sbagliato, quindi è necessario correggere e correggere l'usura per rimediare a questo inconveniente, come procedere, riempire gli alloggiamenti boccole perni e alesaggio noioso redo boccole e perni sovradimensionati, in modo classico, è la prima volta che mi occupo di una macchina simile, è molto vecchia e usurata, è una macchina insolita per le mie parti, di solito ti piace revisionare quale metodo hanno adottato? Devo recuperare il manuale di manutenzione della macchina livellatrice N 61 N 1766 g anno 1976 cat 12 g
S/N is actually 61M01766 not 61N. Parts & adjustment information for the circle and drawbar, which I think is what you are attempting to do.
i I think we need to revise the levers system that commands the inclination of the blade, the machine when it advances in its forward motion it traces the road surface leaving it irregular, you understand that being a leveler should leave a smooth and homogeneous surface, after the passage of the leveler in theory should not move another earthmoving machine to correct the work done by the motor grader but the compactor roller to make the ground constipated and with the right lift I'm wrong? however it is my first leveler, never seen before one work in my part. I have bored bulldozers, buckets excavators, excavator loaders excavators but motorgrader is the first, it is also complicated the system of connecting rods and levers, thank you for your precious time and your patience and the right professional advice from the industry veteran
The main places to begin correcting wear are in red. These are all wear points with relatively inexpensive replaceable components. In no particular order; A frame ball joint Lift cylinder ball joints Centreshift cylinder ball joints Circle shoes and wear pads Blade slides. If you get all these fixed and you still have unacceptable movement, then maybe consider looking at welding and boring.
Continuing from Cmark's post above. Inside each ball joint are 2 replaceable inserts. They are shown as item 4A on the diagram below. The shims are marked 6A and are used to adjust the end play to almost nothing. By replacing the inserts and using some new shims most if not all the play in the cylinders can be removed. The clearance on the large ball at the front of the drawbar can also be adjusted using shims in a similar way to the hydraulic cylinders, although in the case of the drawbar there are no inserts.
Nige and Cmark are certainly masters of the industry. I'm not. I'd take a long bar under the end of the blade and pry it up and down while another person checks the movement of each joint. You could go through all the joints and tighten them up. You may need to work on all the joints, or just a few. You'll see quick enough by watching the joints move up and down.
You're right Delmer. There are a multitude of joints between a grader front chassis and the moldboard cutting edge. On a machine that maybe hasn't had the TLC that it might have had the only way to eliminate the wear is to start methodically working through all the joints, adjusting and replacing parts as you go. If any of the ball studs are actually worn so badly that even new inserts can't fix them, they are available as separate parts to replace in the field by welding, as shown in the diagram below.
AND the ball studs are friction welded, meaning removal requires cutting the entire cross section of the ball joint with oxygen-acetylene cutting torch or air-carbon arc. Time required to replace each ball stud joint and reassemble and adjust clearance approximately 2-2.5 hours.
We've been here before Stan. I was communicating with the OP of this ball stud repair not long back and 3 years after the repair was done it's still in place.......... HeavyEquipmentForums
Okay, you're bookmarking and memory is excellent.
A lot of effort went into that........ I'd hope I would remember it. Thanks to the HEF Search function I managed to find it again.
I repeat, the car when it moves and traces the road leaves the irregular bumpy surface and the crooked road surface therefore I believe that those in my opinion are the mechanical parts to be overhauled and restored, however thanks for the right suggestions, we will disassemble the articulated frame oscillating the circular sector and proceed to measure the various parts to control the clearance and tolerances of the holes of the housings and the pins of conjunction thanks again for the right suggestions and advice, sorry if we insisted but it is the first time that we compare with a similar complex machine thanks again
Dont overlook the blade pivot can have a lot of movement needing welding and boring fitting bushes is good h series has these standard and a new rod be brand new
I'm no expert either but maintain graders everyday and know exactly where to start looking Your going to find the blade slides wore out needing shims and replacement, The cross shaft that holds the blade to the circle arms will be wore sometimes even broken no bushings in there requires weld and bore, The lift cylinders will need shims removed at the circle table to tighten on the ball stud, The circle itself will need to be shimmed to the table Put and operator in gently run the controls watch for loose points as the blade just starts to touch the ground
Another method is lifting the mb up and placing a jack under the cutting edge. As you begin taking up the weight of the mb it should reveal your slack from the bottom up. Mb bushing, circle to draw bar clearance lift cylinders. From personal experience, I find the worst culprit for corner to corner movement is circle to draw bar clearance
ya, especially if it has not been kept adjusted and been allowed to hammer back and forth and up and down. also causes excessive wear to the circle teeth and sprocket
you could kindly attach photos drawings and measurements, demonstration images, the mechanic is only expert in excavators and mechanical shovels for him this is the first grader, thanks pardon me if I got bored with my questions, thanks
Yes, as Nige says, the repair is holding up very well and kinda looks almost as good as a factory weld. Thanks again to everyone for your help. Our local dealer had a new 24M parked at the shop recently and I was admiring the welding on the machine, some of which was impressive but some was very ordinary indeed.
That 2nd photo looks like it was done by a trained chimp on acid.....
I would be ashamed to let anyone see my welding. Then again I have probably spent a total of maybe a weeks time actually trying to run a bead in the last 40+ years! But for Cat to allow something like that out of the factory is amazing!
thanks your testimonies a mechanical friend of mine would like to take a lathe and a boring boring machine to do these jobs, what do you think, which tools are best suited to repair earth moving machines. thanks for everything