But a tractor last month and been trying to get it ready. When Kubota says grease pins every 10 hrs, they mean it. They don't chrome plate the pins so its reg steel to steel. Not sure if loader was ever greased, but there is orange paint on the zerk's. In any case, I have taken a torch to the pin and rod end, and its still not budging. It was glowing red where ever the torch was, and I'm starting to worry about the seal end on the rod. I'm hitting it with a 10 pound sledge back and forth, but next to no movement. Thinking about removing the cylinder and mount so it can be laid on the ground. Looking for ideas of how the pin might be removed. Attached
Does the pin move when angle of the rod changes or does it stay in the same spot in the mounting bracket?
Its seized to the rod end of the cylinder, so much so that it snapped the keeper off the pin. In the second pic there is just a piece of the keeper welded to the end. If the loader is used it is pivoting on the outside edges of the pin
Time for a 20# sledge.
Test drill the pin to see if hard or mild steel.
Probably, sure looking like I need to remove the cylinder and bracket, then I can wack it easier. The backhoe is right next to it so I can use it to support to get it off. Maybe do that tomorrow
Appears to be mild steel but not real mild. Have mushroomed the end slightly and took a grinder to it to tapper back down
I would try to drill a hole
OK I'll try and if I can, what does this say so far as removal, and if I cannot, what is the change?
Yes, I can drill into it with a cobalt 1/4 in bit
Get some good all threaded rod, taper one so you can can weld it to protruding end of pin .cut off “keeper” and make flat so you can weld rod to pin . Get some thick wall pipe a little bigger then pin in diameter,cut pipe a little longer then pin . Put 2 flat washers rod size ,put nut on rod and tighten Use biggest rod you can and still get a good weld Tighten,heat,beat repeat hang wet towel on threaded to slow down rod if weld breaks Don’t go to crazy when you tighten it
If you can drill out do that if not try above .
OK Thanks, will give it a go
Yeah seems these Kubotas aren't made for more than residential use spreading mulch. If you're a straight shooter thats good, I'd try the mag drill.
That's a 1 inch hole, not so sure I could go that route
I dont hesitate to burn one like that out with the broco torch https://www.broco-rankin.com/industrial/ not to many have one of those handy though Its a little deep for a cutting torch you could slice the pin with a 7 inch grinder and thin cutoff wheel then you would have the rod free to burn out the pin with a torch or pull the cylinder to press out or bring to a machine shop the little bit of space lost to the cutoff wheel can be made up with a washer shim when it goes back together The other thing that would do is get rid of the mushroomed part of the pin the soft pins expand so easy and they just lock up harder the more you hit it
I have in the past. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole then applied heat to the inside till it glowed. Then cool with shop air. Often it will come out with out much effort. This is on all kabota brand stuff. The pins they use are a fairly soft.
We have Kubotas in our rental fleet and we just use a sawsall to cut the pin on either side of the rod then take the cylinder to the press and press what's left out.
I'm leaning toward doing the sawzal, using a cut off wheel would need to add a spaced Do agree, now that I know its mild steel, hitting it is probably making things worst
IMO, from experience, Bosch blades cut better...
I like to use the carbide grit blades. https://goo.gl/images/LELYTE
Think I might give it a try today. Came down with a cold the same day posted. Stopped raining finally
The pins did mushroom some and the reason hammering didn't do any good. I cut one side then took the hammer to open the gap on the other side. Should have taken a block of wood against the rod, but I hit the pin over. Doing this made me have to cut it 3 times to get it out. I'd make a mental note for next time but probably wouldn't remember any way. Pin on the left was cut first and there is a bit of mushrooming on the right side of it Used a 20 ton press and some sockets and all good. Now just need to clean paint and reinstall
And grease.
now what would I want to go and do that for, I had so much fun this time around
and a groove in the new pin ... and a zerk fitting
Well, there where 5 pins which had snapped keeper bolts, and besides the one above, I managed to get all removed and free except one more. This pin is on the loader arm to quick attach. Put a grade 5 bolt in it and it snapped it real easy. Been putting PB Blaster on it, and have a 10 ton cheap HF porta power, which going to try a rig something up to try and press it out. This pin has next to no room for a blade
How did you make out?
Right after the post I got a cough, next morning I've got the flu. Feeling better now but its 21 this morning, so going to wait a little longer for it to warm up a bit more
Well my port a power is only 4 ton so it didn't do much of anything. Took some oak blocks, a chain, binder and 20 tom jack, and it didn't budget it either. If I can manage to get the pin cut off, I don't know a way to get the pin pushed out. Could be back to drilling it out. Do have a short H beam which may be able to use it instead of wood.
It appears your easiest option is a sawzall as mg23361 suggested earlier. I have a dewalt cordless reciprocating saw that would cut both sides of the pin in about 20 minutes with a plain ole hacksaw blade in it. If it is as soft as you indicated earlier.
I'm sure I can get it cut, the issue is how to get the piece out after cutting. If I have nothing which can press it out now, after cutting isn't going to make it any better. Just trying to figure best option before I think of cutting
AllDodge … I question your chain setup... I believe your chain & wood block are yielding so your 20 ton jack isn't putting enough pressure to push the pin. The links pictured at the jack's ram (at the nut against the pin) look like they are stretched. You might try some stronger or more chain. I had a similar issue with some threaded rod and a hollow cylinder. I thought the cylinder wasn't enough pressure, till I found the rod so stretched the nut wouldn't turn on the rod...
If you were to cut both sides of the pin completely through, the cylinder will be released from the frame. Then you will have easy access to the three pieces and, most likely whats left in the rod end is the culprit. If you have a press it will make short work of getting that pin out.
Not sure the chain is stretching, its 1/4 high tensile chain but do know the wood is compressing. I used a nut because that was about all space I had, and once wood compressed, you can see how much. Don't think the all thread will work because the last pin removed took everything the 20T press had to budge it. Its only being held in the center and cutting the pin will allow me to remove the quick attach, but I'll still have the same issue. Unable to get it in a press because this is the end of the loader arms. I have some thick wall pipe which may be able to use between jack and other side of loader arm.
But wouldn't the three pieces be fairly easy to drill out ? Most likely only one of the pieces would need drilling. Do you think the pin is seized with rust or is there a step worn on the pin causing a hang up ?
Good quality drill bits will make short work of drilling out a soft metal pin. I buy mine from Kimball Midwest. http://mro.kimballmidwest.com/search?w=drill bit
Possibility, but drilling out a 1 inch pin will take some doing, and then I still need to get the rest out. My thought is if I can get the pin pushed out, then I can just sand in and out, grease and reinstall
Don't use the other side of the loader to press against... Likely, you'll bend the loader. The set up you have is appropriate... just too weak . Keep the forces local.
Weld on all thread as stated before. Drill out pin from other side enough to get through arm not all the way through 3/4 inch should be good size Tighten pipe ,nut ,all thread combo then heat while under pressure .repeat as needed Heat from inside.
After getting pin under pressure and heat . Roll the bucket a little this may help break it free.
Appreciate your thoughts, but not sure how I could do this. There is no drag on the pins from the bracket on either side. To put the pin under pressure the one bolt which is used t hold the pin in is removed. With the bolt removed I can put no twisting torque on the pin from the hydraulics. Its raining today, so going to wait for a while. Need to move the tractor over from barn to the shop to use the welder.
Your 1/4 Grade 43 High Test Chain has only a 2600 pound working load limit. So you've only got 5000 pounds before it starts yielding. Nothing like 20 tons from your jack. In my previous post, I was speaking about 3/4 all thread (local hardware grade) in a 30 ton hollow hydraulic cylinder. When I got a piece of 3/4 B7 with Acme threads... the bushing gave up without a fight.
Good point
When you tighten up the allthread to the pipe to the bucket bracket it should lock the pin to the bucket .if not just heat and tighten
You have a 30T hollow cylinder available? Like hosspuller said, get some b7 rod, weld a nut on the pin and the cylinder should pull it out. I use 1.25” b7 rod with my cylinders, but you could probably get away with 3/4. I’ve pulled larger pins out this way...works for me anyway. Good luck
Guess I missed/don't understand the part about how to use the cylinder to remove. Welding a nut on the end of the pin and how to position the cylinder to remove Thinking of a hydraulic cylinder
Same general principle as what I said except instead of a pipe you have a hydraulic cylinder that you can put the allthread through the center. You need to make a plate to put over cylinder with a hole for the allthread to fit through. Put nut on all thread tight then pump out cylinder You have to make spacers to take up slack if you don’t have enough throw to do it in one try
Alldodge, See if this youtube video helps. Lots of these on ebay, but perhaps if you have a good industrial rental store or hydraulic shop around, they could fix you up for a day.
Photo worth a thousand words
OK, but would have to buy more stuff, dosn't seem cost effective for a few times I would need it https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...cCyPoAo07bp_RIqgmJUys5QWT4l5HXsYaAvbpEALw_wcB
Cheap alternative for occasional use... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial...323620482387?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10
Not a bad price, wonder if my 4T porta a power pump will fit and work it, otherwise I need a pump and hose?
There are a lot of different sizes of those cylinders on eBay. Do a search for hollow ram cylinders. Keep in mind that that the capacity in tons of force is one of three factors to consider. Bore diameter and stroke are the other two. Yes you need a pump and hose. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=port+ta+power Tons of force are what determines what you will need. The first one shown in that link is 10 tons.
Understand, need to know the surface area of the piston and the amount of pressure the pump can deliver, and amount of volume the pumps tank holds to determine if the pump output will actually be able to get 20 to 30T force
Its out, cut off, used 2 jar puller, heat and hammer.
That’s why went with the pipe idea.
I almost drilled, found a piece of 5/8 all thread and pipe. Started to move things around so I could get the tractor out of the barn and just thought, wonder if this would work. I'm sure with a hole clear thru I could have applied heat better
Good job !!! Cheap to !