Brother In law let me have to use his old Chevy 70 dump truck. cab is cancered so bad cannot get clutch adjusted anymore as cab mounts are shot while the trans is pretty well junk and the electrical system almost is enough to keep a battery charged, almost. This little jewel popped up on CL and I bought it sight unseen at $500, drove it onto my trailer. 1985 C7000 366LP Allison auto.
Clean Title
Wow, that cab is really rusty. on a positive note you can spit tobacco without lowering the window. Swapping the box to the new truck? That 366 should be in good shape if its been on propane its whole life.
L door window track shot craps window got sideways and fell off regulator so no need to lower any!! had to carry a gallon of p/s fluid or atf for the p/s brake booster. Hydra boost Bendix 4 wheel disc both trucks. Old 366 has the typical sets too long GM valve train miss on start but sounds good after warming., does have a Gasoline tank on it with a electric frame mount pump so has seen gas. Need to look at the frame, know I have a busted torque leaf rt rr, may be simple enough to shorten but a 12' flatbed/stake body on the old scissors unit may be an alternate. Will have to check some yards as to what is out there.
Anybody know of a truck junk yard NOT overly proud of their stuff? Near to me would be great as to finding a 12-14' flat/grain/dump bed. Don't need the hoist just a bed. Closer ones to me are out of the frickin minds!! $3000 for a take off 16' Omaha Standard(1988) needs a complete floor but has a hoist they won't separate, another has a 14' contractor dump bed with fold down sides that "Needs a little welding work" as was in a wreck and got tweaked pretty hard $2200. No tail gate, one side will not move is bent too bad.
"Cancerous" to say the LEAST.. The steel can in the picture has MORE metal on it than the entire floor board.!!! LOL. That "NEW TRUCK" looks mighty promising.. if you can find a box.. Good luck w/ your project..
The words "money pit" spring to mind.
Oh, then this might be a project right up my alley! Seems whatever I save on the front-end I spend on the back-end... Darryl
Have to call a guy in my area tomorrow, may have a dead grain truck the bed 'Could Be' bought off before it goes to junk.
I can go look at it for you if you need me too. Its about a 1/2 hour from my place. 13' Dump Bed - $1500 (Omaha) hide this posting image 1 of 3 13' dump bed in good shape. Comes with 3 stage hoist (hoist may need rebuilt). https://springfield.craigslist.org/hvo/d/13-dump-bed/6555427050.html
That may be a bit much for a single axle!!! Looks like a old 9-10 yard.
This was my original Money Pit. Started off in life as a standard cab 1969 Dodge W300, old rail or highway department truck. Factory PTO Braden Winch at front, old NP205 Transfer case and NP435 four speed. Factory was a slant 6, next up was a 318 when I got it, that smoked a thrust main due to the 4.88 gears, second engine a 345 did not last either smoked the main again(was kinda tight spun a few times). Last up replaced the third members to get different brake sizes as the OEM parts had ceased to exist, went to 12.5"w rear shoes from 1.25"w and to GM style front disc from the 1"w shoes, also got it to 3.43 ratio where a 383 got built to be slipped in. I trashed the old cab(slight alcohol induced accident with a road barrier sign) cab mounts completely sheared away so went this route. 18" frame stretch 1973 extended cab and NO there is NO Lift on this truck, old Straight Frame Dodge and yes I could replace plugs hood down. 32 gallon UPS truck gas tank and a 7.5x9.5 foot steel floor flatbed(no hoist). Was known as 'The Beast'. 12 leaf rear springs, 6 leaf fronts did not give much. HAD to use seat belts.
I used to work on a lot of those old Chevys. Very popular here as grain trucks. Most common was a 366 gas with a 3 speed auto or a 4 speed manual and a 2 speed rear axle. Most had a single drive axle and a single cheater axle. The juice brakes was a real issue. I was constantly replacing brake lines that rusted out. That's the first place I ever saw a brake rotor rust into 2 pieces. Most of them that were still surviving hit the crusher back when corn was $7/bushel and every farmer bought a semi with a hopper bottom.
MAY have lucked into a yard bed. Close to me, on a old grain truck, Steel side 15' with four foot grain sides and end gate, wood floor is had but has had 1/8" steel sheets welded overlay. $2000 bed, hoist and pump assembly. Will include pivot hinge and pin and guides as well. Looks like an old Omaha bed. Do need to get a torque leaf for the Rt RR spring with the bushing and a few odds and ends that time and sitting have eaten on.
Took me a year to get that old Beast where I wanted it and functional. That truck would pull and run but was a money pit. Sold it to a landscaper, thought it looked cool, wrecked it twice in a year and totaled it the next.
We ran in to a similar situation on the 1966 Chevy C-60 . Needed a bed for it & could not find one . Ended up building a bed for it using an old house trailer frame for the foundation & went with wood floor & sideboards . Even has a trip tail gate & chains for spreading stone .
I drive a 1976 C65 27500 GVWR with flat dump (racks). It has a fresh 5000 mile 427 tall block truck motor. I've dumped a million dollars into it, but it's time for change. I bought a 1990 Top Kick fire truck with 31000 miles. I'm going through Hell finding a serviceable PTO. Thus far, I've bought two, neither was usable. With dump, I'd sell for $5000. or I'll move the body to the newer truck. I'll then have a cab & chassis with hydraulics, and PTO. I'm hoping for three C&C. I have much more than that in new tires alone. Missouri is not far to drive this truck.
HAHA! I have a bed coming, the entire set up pump, reservoir, scissors unit and bed with full side racks $2000. Should be off by the time I get back from Johnstown CO next week.
Alright you all can laugh at the old fool but here is progress so far: Found a decent grain box, will need refloor but solid, $2k, had a busted radius leaf on Rt RR, that I found at the same yard, new bushing and back in business there. Going to get new LP lines made and get materials to replace the rear bed pivot.
Old bed pretty straight, does have a few wrinkles. Still have to see if set up for and get a PTO for a AT542. Sorry of the Fat finger!!
Familiar sight. My 1976 will soon be relieved of duty. Its job will be assumed by a retired fire truck of similar weight, but a big diesel engine.
Willie B- did you get your pump issues straightened out?
LKQ, a big multi state truck salvage company sold me one from California. It would have been perfect except for one bolt having been removed with what I presume to have been a plasma cutter. The aluminum casting was buggered. The ultimately replaced it with a different manufacturer's version. It had been apart, reassembled incorrectly, and damaged when it chewed itself up. Also, the pump had been replaced with one ten years newer, shaft length was wrong, and the half moon key was mostly out of place, damaging the keyway. I was informed, they prefer not to do business with me. They told me to scrap both bad ones. I looked into a new one, and found it wasn't near expensive as I had been led to believe. It isn't installed yet. Too many balls in the air.
Got after it the last two days. Bed pivot on the used unit not so sweet so making up new, one 'Custom' cross member was going to an interference so hacked that away, gas axe. then dragged the rear duals off to start on rear calipers that are seized/seizing. Neighbor was over BSing while I was working away, he had never seen how Cast Spoke Dayton Rims came off. Backed off the lug nuts, snatched up a four pound hammer and tap tap, BANG! He either soiled himself or felt uncomfortable around that size equipment popping loose as that and left!!! Y'all can laugh at this old mans wire welds, I am not as practiced as I should be but they will hold.
I had an '86 C65 with hydraulic discs and never found a solution to keeping caliper slides from sticking, Dry was my best luck, too many dusty roads, but deicer in the winter would rust them up solid.
Had some luck years ago cleaning the large scale off them then painting the slides with rust converter. Holds as well as anything else. Boots on the pistons have been cooked on the rears so pistons are also seizing. This was the Crossmember change:
Been a little busy of late but getting a few item accomplished. Got the exhaust made up to replace the rusted thru piping and received the replacement manifolds for the engine as both sides were cracked, awaiting replacement installation bolts where the old ones took 13/14mm and 9/16" 1/2" sockets to get them out due to corrosion. Butt end is almost fitted out, while awaiting parts have stripped the bed floor off for repairs prior to swing over and have bought the t&g boards to refloor it correctly. Had to have a way to tow a trailer with the damn thing, gravity box whatever.
Exhaust manifolds replaced(aftermarkets Kinda Sorta fit up), had to do some burr work to get spark plug shields to reinstall at shallow ends of both. Got the custom bent replacement exhaust piping hung with mufflers dangling to check for manifold leaks, all was good, right side pipe wraps behind trans so can mount the PTO pump and shaft on the right side(Allison AT542). Now get to make the custom muffler hangers(for PTO allowance) and finish clamping it all in place. Then the steel shop called had my latest order ready for pickup for the bed framing. The left saddle tank is hooked to nothing and is coming off.
Old trucks don't usually go far, mine can go 200 miles on a tank. I considered using the other tank for diesel, and the compressed air to dispense it to tractors.
Where's the DEF, SCR, EGR and other alphabet solutions? All I see are a pair of dual pipes under there, you're killing the air quality.........
Heh Heh Heh!! PROPANE!!!!
Ultimate fuel! Hook up your grill for a hot lunch and tie in the torch for those scrapping events. You've got it all.
Dear LORD now junkyard will be pushing for the popcorn machine AGAIN!!
That sounds like an excellent use of resources if you don't need that extra capacity .
Moved the wagon out so I can sweep up a bit PTO is on the way seems the AT542 is obsolete enough to have to build one from parts!! Should have the pump mounted by then as been cleaning that mess up Will have to make new mounts as originals are twisted
[QUOTE="DMiller, post: 770252, member: 14603" PTO is on the way seems the AT542 is obsolete enough to have to build one from parts!! View attachment 186904 [/QUOTE] I dont know if you can get any kind of a pto off the shelf. I needed one for a newer allison and l called all over the country then had to bug a place and offer to pay what ever to have parts air mailed so they could build me one.
Local yard has used off US Mil spec transmissions and a couple of MT series boxes, nothing for a AT. Found a series 221 'Foreign' aftermarket to fit the AT 542 at MPPM Mixer and Plant parts but had the incorrect output speed for the old pump I will be using, WAY too fast even at idle. Local hydraulics shop has one coming, early next week, is also "Foreign" build but stated Chelsea is as slow as can be for reality currently and if Not on the shelf is most likely a month or more out to get built.
I dont know if you can get any kind of a pto off the shelf. I needed one for a newer allison and l called all over the country then had to bug a place and offer to pay what ever to have parts air mailed so they could build me one.[/QUOTE] Anymore this is the usual case with PTO's, Too many drive applications regarding output speeds and rotation, It just doesn't pay to stock every possible combination. The last one I ordered through PTO specialists in Seattle was an air shift hot shot for an 8ll trans, I had it a day later and it was built heavier than the original specs.
I had a deal with the pio on my winch truck it has a 5speed that was commen in 2 tons. I was at a place and ask before i was ready yes he could get one $2??.oo. When i went order one parts guy only guy their that could look one up was in hospital and didnt return for over a year.I tryed every one all over the USA even called the pto factorys. A woman at chelsi tryed hard for over 30days and said they maybe could sell me one for over $ 1200.00 but didnt know if it would work. One day after more than a year i called and the guy was back to work i drove there and told him my story he looked at me like i was stuped pulled out a folded over pto sheet and said he could have me one tomorrow. I thought it cant be that easy but i returned 2 days later and he had the wright one for under $300.00.
Right parts guy, right background are well worth their paychecks!!
Your wright its geting harder to find a good parts guy. In the next year or two 2 of the best around here are going to retire thats another resone i need to find another line of work.
Good parts guys are getting harder to find, but the internet has made it easier to find parts yourself. I can a lot of times just research something right from my phone, and then make a few phone calls around to see what I can find available. Sure beats driving all over to find something.
Don't give up hope, I'm only 37 and can find any part you will need. Picture of it, any numbers on it, what it came off of, year of the item it came off of and I will find it.
You are one of the VERY few out there. All too many if cannot look up a truck/car/tractor model or a s/n and see a parts listing in a computer base have No Clue as to how or where to get the information and do not care to try. Been there and recently, OFTEN.
Not that hard to me it's like that toy where in pre school you put the triangle in triangle hole and and cube goes in square hole hehe. People just don't try mostly is the problem but if you ask them what their neighbor posted on Facebook they could tell you. Here is good example, found this part with missing tag, sure if I had called the manufacturer I would of gotten the S/N too or got it from just going off certain specs. HeavyEquipmentForums
Pulled the big garbage pile out and primered the bed ledge and crossmembers to slow rust growth , once is painted above will set the flooring, seal the outer radius then paint everything Under, crossmembers floor, lift frame, front edge external of bed, truck frame, etc., ALL Black. One that is complete will high tech tarp the cab and paint the entire perimeter of the bed frame. Painting frame black, grain side panels will get repainted Red. Have four rear u-bolts and a replacement spring center bolt coming, gonna replace the rt. rr. center bolt, AGAIN, this time eliminating the Extra leafs, on the left rr. will be removing a garbage spacer somewhat compensating for the other side extra leafs(3).
I find parts for older Chevy medium duty trucks are a nightmare to find. Engine mounts, and radiator mounts heading that list. Even cab parts common to C25 trucks of the era, I can't buy unless I lie about what truck I'm buying them for. I had a similar dump frame, mine rusted worse. I replaced mine with second hand channel, 4" square tube for stake pockets, and Oak. I sawed out enough to deck it twice, stored the spare. The great flood of 2011 stole my stash of 2-1/4". I found the oak lasted about 6 years, water seeped through the cracks, the two layer frame was constantly wet. Next round I put 1-1/2" flat stock on edge every 6-3/4" lengthwise, and decked it with a single piece of 14' x 94" 3/16" hot rolled. Deck is dry, frame is dry, loads slide out nicely.
By the manufacturer(Crysteel) this bed is a 1968, was discontinued in 1979 as too many grain bed makers. Has held up pretty well, have T&G 2x6 to go on the bed then Boiled Linseed oil it on top, painted underside.
Hey Willie, the local Car Quest we have in town has a couple 'Old Farts' that work the counter, if not in the database get the books out, find numbers start looking for interchanges or updated numbers, found a lot for me so far.
I'm envious. These trucks share the same part number with much newer trucks, on many parts. If it also fits a 1990 truck, I can sometimes find a part. Admit it is for a 1976, they say "no listing"
Gear is here, got some black paint on the frame work so can set the floor. Did some measuring, ended up cutting a slot in the make shift welded crossmember to the first support bearing for shaft and control access to the pump, made up new support mounts for the pump. Tomorrow now that the last small parts arrived will be setting the pressurized lube line up and swinging the gear then setting the pump.
This little jewel has a power up/power down hoist, was some under frame damage most likely from a idiot trying to use it as a hoist or jack under something heavy. Had to section out this chunk of left bed rail
PTO is on, getting wiring run for the indicator lamp, got tired of cutting myself to shreds under the dash so moved to the bed floor for a while. Coming along nicely. Old choke cable hole worked fine for PTO in/out cable, hoist control on shift tower.
Took a lazy day, finished the floor set, made mounts for the three light bar and mudflaps at rear, still have some wiring to tidy up and a ground strand to set bed to frame to call the back end good. Have cut a squaring brace for the Hyd Pump mount, that will go in tomorrow then dismantle and clean hyd reservoir and install a drain fitting on the box then it gets mounted. Shaft will be pretty close to 5' installed length, was worried may have to two piece it but is under a critical length and will stand as a single with slip tube. Dash work is also completed. Today took longer as I found some thicker points of floor mounts, the T30 bits could only stand so much before I had to go buy more. Got my appointment set to get the state vehicle inspect so can set tags on it.
I hired out once to replace three beds on Meeks lumber trucks. All tongue and groove with two deck screws per cross member. I bought drill bits by the bag two of the beds were tweaked a bit so I ripped the last board to fit
The boards on this one are and were T&G, the originals were all but one 2x6, the oddball was 2x4 but still T&G and at the center. I too ripped the last one I installed along the right edge, also cut away the Groove section along the left edge as installed the first.
It all functions, the cylinder started leaking at the cylinder end nut initially it has now backed off to a seep which I suspect is due to an old style cylinder with Rawhide packing on the cylinder Head(separate from cylinder nut or end cap). from drying down sitting. All the lighting functions and the mudflaps have been installed to meet MO max height from road. Ready for state inspect but that will not be until closer to end of Nov as I have to await the end of the year to get NEXT years tag and a inspection is only good for 60 days.
OK, have to whine some, Kid I know that is a wanna be mechanic stops by to see how far I have gotten. He is impressed an OLD broke down, (Repeat)OLD man could do as much as I did in the short time I took as to the days and hours actually applied. He looked over my work and asked a question as to "Why" I installed poly tubing to run the light wiring under the bed floor. Explained I only wanted to do it once, and NOT have to deal with chafe and wear into the wiring. He stated he did not understand, tried to explain and seemed to go over his capability level where he argued was a pretty heavy expense just to shield the wires, some just WON'T Learn.
More fun last few days, dragged that Rt RR spring back out, removed the TWO extra leaves from the main stack then went to install, well my new Ubolts were short, only half a nut engagement when tight. I have ordered ubolts for YEARS and always managed to get the correct dimensions(measured L Rr to get adequate for a spacer removal), remeasured the spring pack compared to the left, Same, then it showed, the Overload has had an Extra leaf added as well the spring Genies added a 1/2" spacer block Under the OL pack that sit upon the regular stack. Back out those came, ground the weld away and split the spacer, removed the extra OL leaf and TADA ubolts all good with 5-7 clean threads beyond the high nut AFTER torque up. Wrestled Left side apart, that center bolt was already sheared, presumably off the oddball way they were loading this machine, out came that pack and restack, all good, thread counts similar L-R. I really do not like Imagineering on sensitive components like suspension. Got energetic, pulled the Rt Fr as it ALSO had been over-stacked, pulled three Extra leaves from it that were not only Extra but Thicker 1/2" compared to 7/16", reassembled and reinstalled and now awaits the new ubolts I will pickup AFTER Deer season this weekend. Still have to drag out the L Fr as it has 2" of added spacing under the spring to make up for the extra Rt side leaves that will have to come out but won't leave the axle fully loose and will await the new u-bolts. Will be Back to stock height AND ride by Friday.
Sounds like an '86 F600 I had. Had a 6K autocrane on the RH side and a bunch of extra spring leafs installed to make it ride level.
You should of bought these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12...-Self-Drilling-Screws-40-Pack-21384/100145370 and a half inch drill motor. Did a whole 40 ft shipping container with similar ones not same length but they went through 1/4 iron no problem like butter, slow and steady. Went through two phillips drill bits and that's it.
I used the best recommended to me at the time. Most of the previous screws were still on the bottom side of the cross brace, ground flush on the top of it but still on the bottom side. Kept getting into them and jamming up and breaking whatever was used. I would look for some other way next time for sure.
Same with mine though I managed to miss 98% of them by changing the spacing versus what they had, I went cubit measurements. The ones I did hit I drilled them out. Though I understand where you are coming from you used what you had as I would of done the same.
I managed to remove all the old broken screws, actually was just a little time consuming but easy as many were so shank rusty they simply screwed the rest of the way out within less than a thread with vise grips. NEXT project will be AIR RIDE and AIR BRAKE!!
If you want to hold off with that "next" project, I've got a trailer that needs redecked. Since you have all this recent experience, I'd hate to see it go to waste. Are you seriously contemplating air ride and brakes on this truck, or a different truck?
Not on this machine, maybe for a Next project machine as to considerations. Good luck on that redeck!!!
Ever further, will be taking in for inspection this next week(AFTER Thanksgiving). Dug out five old Tarp Bows I still had from years ago(I really need to stop hoarding!!) so will build some stake pocket supports to utilize. Ride height is back to Factory normal.
Got machine loaded, spoke to a local as to just driving it to get inspected, was told local cops will eat that up, a no can do situations. Suggested either tow or trailer so here I go. Have to get both rust buckets inspected, the red and the white one for this year's license. Pickup AND trailer not liking me right now!! They go in Monday Morning first thing.
I've always driven my trucks to get my plate inspection, maybe I've just been lucky? It does look like a pretty good load on the truck and trailer. The flatbed sure looks nice, I'm still saving that trailer redeck for you. Is the tongue and groove treated, or just regular wood and where did you source it? I was just going to get rough cut sawmill oak for my rollback trailer and just shove them tight.
Here in Washington I always got the 3 day trip permit and drove them. Never an issue.
Funny thought on that RZ, we CAN get a transit permit prior to license, just have to show the State Inspection Form to get it!! Hey there CO, just plain Pine T&G, 2x6. Local lumber supplier(Owensville) has access and could get in 2x4, 2x6 and IIRC 2x8. Oak if green will shrink almost a quarter inch if not kilned, had two trailers I 'Loose' decked some years ago, boards were caged over the ends with angle iron to retain but allowed to float loose against cross members, owners choice not mine. Do not believe he ever had issues with them, did not keep up on them to know. HE Trailers we chose Oak or Hickory as would take the scuff and grind of rails/grousers better, PITA to drill and fasten but only did ends and center cross members, some we flat Bolted down with carriage bolts as lumber twist often would shear the screws. BTW I have coated and will recoat with Boiled Linseed Oil, just have to set brushes/rollers/rags in a metal can OUTSIDE when done, will come back to ash pile in the can next day.
Inspect all done, guy that did them asked if was my trailer outside, I said Yes why? He asked how I unloaded the two ton by myself, told him back the same way I have always done load or unload, by myself, loaded and chained it up headed home. Is a no brainer as to getting machines on or off trailers, only time needed spotter was when load was WIDE or extremely off balance, then preferred it. BTW BOTH Passed no issues.
Time to haul some grain then?
Closer