Hi Everyone! I'm looking for a 'budget' backhoe for some land improvement in preparation for building a house. This will include moving some fill around, digging up stumps, etc - perhaps more fun than work. I'm handy with tools and work on my own vehicles but never worked on heavy equipment or hydraulics. What would a 1976 Case 580B CK 2WD be worth? The hour meter is showing 46xx hours but I'm unsure if the meter is working. I'll be meeting the owner this weekend to test. The machine looks overal OK to me for the age but I really don't know what I'm looking at. What is the difference between the shuttle trans and the hydrostatic trans? How can I tell which it has? At first glance I noticed there are a few leaks on some fittings and the exhaust manifold has a hole from rusting though. Owner says he used it 10 times in the past 4 years, all the pins are tight except for the right and left swivel. Says the front tires are newer. I noticed one of the rear tires has some cracking in it. It has a cab but not all the glass is there. I did notice a heater also. Any advice you can give me would be great. Thanks!
Maybe 5-6k, :beatsme Thats a pretty old machine..... a lot of it depends on your area as well. Thats what I would offer him around here...
A 76 backhoe is a real old machine,that old it will be probally be a 4 speed, maybe a clutch I've never been on a machine that old personally.
Our first backhoe was a 79 580C. What you're looking at might be similar. If I recall correctly, there was a choice between a dry clutch, and a "power shuttle". I can't say for certain, but I'd bet that what you're calling a "shuttle" is a dry clutch, with a forward and reverse shifter, and a 4-speed transaxle behind that. You get four speeds forward, and the same four speeds in reverse. The "power shuttle" would be a hydrostatic forward and reverse, and then the same 4 speed transaxle. There's not any difference in the tranny, only in how you shift it. The power shuttle is definitely the easier setup to do any work with.
The only reason why I asked about the transmission was that there are two models listed on the Case parts website. This is how they are described: 580B CASE CONSTRUCTION KING TRACTOR W/SHUTTLE TRANSMISSION or 580B CASE CONSTRUCTION KING WHEEL TRACTOR W/HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION I'm going to try to go there today and post pictures.
Just got one...... W/SHUTTLE shift, power shift from fwd/rev. piad $6000.00 in CO ( A steal here) Runs out strong, can sit forever and fire right up......An old Case tractors never get never gets tired, it's the owner that gets exhausted! The only thing thats a bummer is the 4 stick control...but once you run it for a couple of hours you'll hit the groove....
Here are some pics:
That machine does not look too bad! You are not too far from NYS. There is a decent 480 4x4 posted here for sale, I looked at it a couple of weeks ago. It shows around 27oo on the meter if I recall and the only thing I could really fault the machine on was old rubber. I was ready to buy that one but stumbled on a much newer one for a great price and took it instead. :drinkup
More:
Chaves, I came across a true Hydrostatic drive 580B in the bush this summer. Rare according to my friend who used to own a Case dealership. The 'shuttle 'lever' is shorter and the housing behind the engine is definitely different.Same hydraulic pump and motor as in the Case forklift, they worked good when they were working. There is a disconnect lever on the transmission case.I feel sorry for anyone who needs parts. On the Case parts sight I think you will find that the picture of the Hydrostatic backhoe shows a large pump and a large motor inside. I would stay away from it if it is. I've never seen a 580B that didn't have a hydraulic shuttle, but it's possible some were made direct drive. The clutch pedal on a hydraulic shuttle model is a dump valve. 580B's had 2 different hydraulic shuttle clutch assemblies, the Rockwell and the Twin Disk. Most B's have the letter T or R stamped after the serial #, located on the right side of the steering column. Twin disk shuttles are not well thought of and prone to problems, also hard to rebuild. A Rockwell is a good unit with long life and will tolerate dirty oil unlike the Twin Disk. Later 580B's approaching 1975 had the hoe valve body mounted up high and was nice to work on. 580B's are difficult to work on compared to a C model.Removing the shuttle is a big job, as is the differential housing, or the radiator.They have a weaker front axle, costly to fix wear in the spindles.The loader frame cracked where it joins. It's hard to find one that hasn't been welded and/or plated.580B's had mechanical linkage for brake actuation, cheaper to fix than later models.The engine is not mounted in rubber. Later models are much smoother running in rubber mounts.Although the C and D used a similar 207 engine, the 580B G188 engine suffers the same age problems as the 207.They can crack between the liners from top to bottom. This as well as leaking liner O-rings can cause coolant in the oil. As they get older, fewer used blocks can be found as well as other B parts.Check the boom latch also, they are expensive to replace.580B's have good cabs with heavy metal; they last a long time, see if you can get the half door with it. In Ontario very good B's run up to $12K. The same C model up to about $13,000. This is with extendahoe which can add $500 to the price of an older hoe. I never pay attention to the hour meter on a machine that old. Tach cables break often and people just leave them that way. On a warm machine the hoe should lift the machine off the ground easily on a high idle. This is with the dipper vertical. Before buying a B, keep this in mind. If you can afford a C, it's a much better machine with many, many, many improvements. I hope I've helped a little, it's my first post, not trying to sound like a know it all. Phil
Well, not exactly your first post but I'll give you a "Welcome" anyways. Welcome to HEF Phil! :drinkup
WOW, Thanks for the info Phil! I'll try to see if I can tell the difference. It does say shuttle on the dash but not sure if that tells me anything. I'm going to bring this post with me Half door? Do you mean it should pick up the machine by 'boom lower' only? The guy says he'll take $5500.00, Phil, what are you doing Saturday?
Chavez, if you get that one, the first thing to do is get a grill in the front end. Radiators are neither cheap nor crush-resistant.
Oh that machine brings back memories....they are good machines but Phil hit it on the head. If you can find a C and afford it get it. Also seriously consider an extendahoe. Our B's were such a pain in the butt to work on and although they did their job they were getting old and it was somewhat frustrating the lack of power they would have sometimes. Blake WA
Thanks for the welcome countryboy; I can't figure out why it says 4 posts. I'm sure I haven't posted here before but I'll put it down to memory lapse or old age. I've been trying for a long while to get a password but my e-mail is selective about who can get through. Chaves, the excellent pictures posted show one style of half door(drivers). Yes push down on the boom lever. Same test as I would do on a C,D,or E. Lots of more experienced operators here to give you better advice on pump testing, I think. I just paid $4300 for a B that the owner said wouldn't go forward, it wouldn't start, had 3 liters of water in the engine oil pan, bad rear tire, and had sat for many years. Extendahoe lines were shot and a big chunk of the hoe bucket was ripped out. I had to pay $500 to get it home. I think the area you live in also affects the price, so I can't advise on price. Phil
Not to hijack this thread, but you can find a person's posts by clicking on that button in their profile. Yes, Phil, you have posted before: The question is, why'd you stay away so long?
Digger you are correct, I have posted here before and those are my old posts. I have no idea what happened and I don't have any good excuses. Phil
Wanted to post a picture of a 580B shuttle assembly as the crow flies.Phil
Well the guy never returned my call when I called to confirm our meeting to test it out. So I've given up on this one. I have in the mean time looked at a few more and found another that I'm interested in. It's a 580C (unsure of the year). I will start a new thread and describe it. Opinions welcome.
New to forum HI everbody new to forum also looking for first hoe.Got a w4 farm tractor and loader but just doesn't cut it looking at 1982 case 580sd 4x4 extenda hoe with 4 in one bucket.Backhoes are sure more i BC than down south. Is this machine a good choice for snow plowing and general land improvement work it has 5500hrs.Thanks hope this didn't hijack the thread.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums hmover! :drinkup
Welcome hmover. I like the 580D alot, good choice for what you are doing and good resale value with the 4-wheel drive. Let us know if you are serious about buying it and we can all pitch in to help. Phil
Can't go wrong with the 580 hmover IMHO. Welcome!
Second everyone's comment. 580 series very good, the D was a good model. They're still out there working hard and running great. Blake WA
That one picture shows a control valve and temp sender as used on a power shuttle, not a hydro, Good advice from others is to buy no earler than a 580c because of servicability as they were unitized construction, If you have to take the power shuttle unit out, you will be kicking yourself around , a good wrench will have the PS unit out of 580C 2wd in an hour.Mel
Hey chavez what ever happened, did you get a hoe?
X2 Blake WA
Hi all I am in the UK and have just bought 1986 580G Construction King. I think this was built (in France) for the european market but if anyone can fill me in if it was found anywhere else I would be interested. It comes with a David Brown 219 engine - currently mine has a big end gone and I am trying to locate a manual to help me fix it but here in the UK there are not so many around. Have the 580 family changed a lot from one to the other or did they share many of the same parts? Were these machines badged as another model elswhere?
In the US and here in Canada they were badged 580 B, C, D, E (yours) then K, L, and now M. No G's....... I know that the early K's had the same engine as the E's, which was a cummins engine I believe, but one thing I know is that the E's here in US and Canada didnt come with those big 18" wheels on the front..........they were the smaller ones, I believe they were 16" tires. I dont know this was an add on to your machine or it came that way back in the day, but I would imagine that that is a completely different front end as well.:beatsme I had an 86 E as well and I might actually have the manual for it, I will check it out tonight and see if it is still in my office.
First Part of Thread: 580B power shuttle tractor is the unit posted. Stay away from these. In their time they were awesome. They are very labor intensive/costly to repair if something goes wrong in power shuttle area. Rest of tractor is easy to get parts for as they interchanged with alot of different models both CE and AG. Alot of parts available aftermarket also. Second Part of thread: 580C/D were great tractors. They both had the model 35Hoe, both had the Case 207 Engine, same power shuttle, Almost the same transaxle(many parts interchangeable) Hydraulics a little different. Major issue was engine, 207 that had to be rebuilt and crank ground were subject to crank breakage. A .020 grind would weaken the crank just enough to break under heavy load. Many of these still working today. The "D" had a 4wd option that the "C" did not. The best "older" model hoe from Case was the 580SE. This is in some peoples minds the best backhoe ever made, till this day. 3Rd Part of thread: The 580G was manufactures specifically for the European market. A few made it over here but they do not have the same parts as their North American counterparts. That had the David Brown Engine and the International farm tractor rear end. The hoe is completely different than our version. Some parts are available here but very few. Most Case dealers do not even have access to the parts information. There was never a North American service manual available. Front axle was different also. Hope this helps...........Elast
"In the US and here in Canada they were badged 580 B, C, D, E (yours) then K, L, and now M. No G's......." Cavalo - thank you for that very useful piece of information, I just googled the Case 580E and it sure looks the same. From your description it may well be the one but did they make them with the David Brown 219 AD4/55 engine for the Canadian/USA market like they did here? Mine does not have the Cummins unit and I have a big end gone so would like to know some technical details about the AD4/55, how to get the unit out and torq settings etc. I would be very interested to know if the manual was the same for mine, as I might be able to get one for an 'E'. Here in the UK you do see a some Case 580's, (and I have been looking for a long time for a second user manual for a 'G' but no luck). By far the most common (?) popular machines are JCB - the secondhand market for these backhoes is very busy - they are increasingly being bought up and shipped out to Poland and other european countries. thank you again.
"The 580G was manufactures specifically for the European market. A few made it over here but they do not have the same parts as their North American counterparts. That had the David Brown Engine and the International farm tractor rear end." Elast - This is very interesting and thank you for unravelling a bit more of the mystery! Can you tell me (a novice when it comes to plant & large machinery) a bit more about the 'rear end' - do you mean the torque and shuttle and final drive? What is the 'International farm tractor' sorry if it's a dumb question but it will help me.
The machine is made up of components. The engine, powershuttle & torque assy(fwd/rev transmission) and transmission/differential assy(Transaxle). I am referring to the transmission/differential assy when I say rearend. I believe that the rearend/transaxle assy is either from an International or David Brown farm tractor. It is modified of course for this application. Hope this helps......Elast
Sorry forgot to add that the 580E is nothing like the G. Some of the sheetmetel is the same and the power shuttle is the same but thats it. The engine, transaxle and alot of the backhoe are different. Go here and enter 580G under model, then search. The relevant parts books will come up. https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/main.php Do same fro any model and you can compare parts. Elast
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Elast! :drinkup
Thank you, I am sure I will like it here. Elast:drinkup
Hello. My first post here so I can't start a new thread. I just picked up a 1973 580B today. It will be used for general light duty farm type work and maybe dig a foundation or two. It's going to need several seal kits before it's usable. I've never rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder before. About how much time is involved to do one cylinder? Also on the leaky cylinders I cannot find any numbers stamped on the end. Would these be split piston or do I need to pull them all apart before ordering seal kits? Kirk
We could usually get a cylinder done in a couple hours, it really isn't too hard. It's just a pain to handle one alone because they're quite heavy and w/ fluid getting all over the place it just makes it that much more of a pain to handle alone. But they don't take long to rebuild. As far as your second question, someone else (like Phil) will have to answer that. My boss just knew what he needed so it was already at hand. Is it an extendahoe or standard hoe? B's are good machines. Blake WA
Thanks for the reply. You sure are a friendly bunch here. It's a standard hoe. At this point I want to avoid having 7 cylinders off the machine at one time and the parts supplier is 1 hour away. So I'm a little confused on the best way to proceed. I'm wondering if there aren't any tricks to deal with the fluid to minimize loss. Like maybe disconnect one side of the ram and run it one way to put all the fluid into one side and then disconnect one hose and pull the piston back out to push the fluid into the reservoir. Will that work in real life?
On the older machines there are at least three options for the seal kits. In most instances you will have to dissassemble cylinder to tell which packing you have if you cannot find the cylinder number on the gland. Even this is not perfect though. As far as minimizing oil loss you can do as you suggested but you have to hold the control lever in the position you are trying to drain in order for the oil to get back to the resevoir. You have to remember though that the anticav valve will sometimes let oil back into the opposite side regardless of what you do. Best bet is to get a clean pail and unhook the lines and put into pail and SLOWLY move rod in and out untill cylinder is m/t. You can then reuse oil after cylinders are rebuilt. Good luck.....Elast:canada
Elast has given you good advice there. I've been lucky with my Case dealer and seal kits are usually correct, at least the parts needed to stop the leak . Try to make a deal with your dealer to bring back any wrong kits. If the piston part of the packing is working the way it should, and looks good, I have put them back in, but thats in my own machine. I'm adding my life experience below. Lately I've been getting an assortment of gland wipers, back-up rings and o-rings from the local hydraulic hose place, and gland leaks can be fixed for less than $20. Getting the gland loosened off can be difficult, as with the rod bolt. Some people use a big pipe wrench, or a large punch(ugh) and some glands really show it. There is a proper tool for it (good luck). I use a 1" bar and a 6' or 8' pipe, on the rod bolts with the other end still held by the machine if possible. Sometimes a 3/4"drive set will work. I've had to heat the rod end to soften the loctite and always use it on assembly. Outrigger cylinders tend to be the worst glands to remove, watch for bent rods here too that make it difficult. Sometimes it's necessary to use the machines hydraulic system to push a rod out, as in the case of a bent rod or rusted bore, or bent tube. Check your boom cylinder tubes with a straightedge. Glands need to be checked for the all important oil wiper seal seat. This area inside the gland can get rusty and pitted especially on boom and dipper cylinders with leaky or missing dirt wipers. I have put glands in a lathe to polish, or turn a few thousands off this area with a boring bar, with success. Sand with emery the gland outside groove that the O-ring and back-up ring rest in, and also the tube bore where these seat. Try to start at the front of the machine if you have any leaks there to gain experience. Hope I've helped a bit and don't quote me on any of this . Phil
Thank you. To say the least I have a lot to learn. I posted some pictures in a new thread.
hey see that you know your stuff on the case 580 i just recently purchased one and the forward and reverse seems to not be fully engaging. it will go forward with very little power and sometimes reverse but not often again with even less power. If you could steer me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated
P.M. me, thanks, Phil
Not sure if you bought it yet but I just went thru this and ended up with a beast of a machine. A 710b Deere. I found that the big ones were cheaper than the smaller ones because transporting cost more??? Cost more to fix??? Some other unknown reason!?! Like you, my machine will live at the ranch so transporting isn't an issue other than getting it to the ranch. It may be harder to sell a big one latter but I don't plan to get rid of mine anyhow. Good luck. (Post #3) Taggert
love my 1971 580ck My wife bought me a 1971 580ck a few years back and is great. It is much smaller than others I have driven. On my property it is nice to have the smaller footprint when trying to get between tries and clean out the brook. All the parts have been easy to get, and it has not needed much. Is there anyone who can help with a hydraulic cylinder question? I have a leaky stabilizer cylinder (case part # G32589, I think) and am planning to rebuild it. I have done 3 others as they were needed on this tractor and it has been relatively easy. Tonight I tried to remove the gland from the cylinder and it turned about 90 degrees with a lot of hammering on the "spanner wrench". Then it just stopped. I am wondering if it could be a LEFT HAND thread? I tried to turn it backwards and again it moved about a quarter turn and then stopped. Any thoughts?
Not left thread that I'm aware of. I had a cylinder once that had been hit near the end of the tube with the bucket, or a rock, anyway check for a dent. I know the tube is reinforced with the gland behind it but it was there. In my cylinder it caused alot of drag and I had to heat the end of the tube around the dent to get the gland off. You may have to use heat anyway to get it off. Sometimes a bent rod will put some pressure on the gland and make unscrewing a pain, unless extended or retracted. Hopefully it's not galling but I doubt it they are in oil. I posted a thread here 'tools of mass destruction'...very crude. Phil
New member needs advice on Case 580B CK Just purchased a 580B and have a few questions. Hope someone can help me. Is it okay to replace the rear end fluid with 80W-90 oil? How do I "store" the backhoe in the "lock" when moving the backhoe. I've read all the posts I can find regarding the transmission, because I'm experiencing some "sluggish-nish" in my trans. But I'm finding it difficult to locate the "torque" tube and I'm really confused about the fluids in the trans. Is there 2 differant fluids used? What are they? How do you check each one? Where is the fill for them. I can see the big trans fill plug just in front of the shift lever, but what's this torque tube thing????? Got lots more questions but don't want to over burden anyone on my first day.
Hoe lock? My 580ck does not have a hoe lock. Does your 580b have one? I didn't think those arrived until the 580C's. I just remember to every few minutes reach back and raise the arm back up as mine does sag over time. I have run a 580E that had a pain in the ass pin system that I just never used unless i was doing a mile or more down the road. My ck never leaves the yard. As far as fluids. I am not the strictest in following the manual. I do not believe my 40 year old tractor tells the difference between todays fluids. For the transmission I use a generic Tractor oil from my local auto parts store. A 5 gallon pail for about $40. I think the stuff I currently have is Coastal 303. As far as the filling, I found this on another site and had saved it for myself: --> The Tourque Converter unit can be filled from the cap ahead of the 4 speed cap. The large 1 1/2 thin nut between the caps is the rear trans which is 90 wt oil. There should be another plug on the next cap front that fills the tc/shuttle housing.
How do I "store" the backhoe in the "lock" when moving the backhoe. Boom up. Just as it is nearing the top of its travel move the boom lever slightly to down. The boom will free travel back in to the lock. Sort of caming over.
Cliff, Welcome to the forum. To add about the boom lock, it's helpful to get the back of the machine up higher, either backing up a hill or putting the outriggers down all the way, when attempting to get it locked. The point at which the boom lever is pushed the other way requires a little practice. The torque tube connects the engine to the transaxle. It's a big long casting containing the shuttle assembly and converter, or flywheel assembly. It has a fill plug in the shuttle cover, that's the cover just in front of the gearshift cover. Oil for the converter drive models is TCH I believe, and for the transaxle is EP 80-90 GL-4, so yes there a 2 different types of oil used. Phil
thanks everyone for the advise. I was concerned about the transmission and changed the filter, (in front of radiator) It was old and needed replacing but I didn't see any metal of junk in the filter. I guess it's just how the 580 B's were, sluggish in the transmission department. I bought this 580B CK (ext-hoe) last week and have fixed the minor things that were bothering me. Now, I've noticed that many of the bushings and pins need replacing, and there is a small amount of leaking from some of the rams, other than that I'm wondering if I shouldn't turn around and sell the 580B and try to find a 580SE. So far, with parts and stuff, I have about $4800 tied up in hoe. One final question. Is this the proper way to post a question? Just get on someone else's post and do a "reply"???? I enjoy reading about other 580B's but don't want to hijack anyone's thread.
If you can find a buyer and make a profit, I would consider it. Used parts are getting very hard to find, although Case still supports the B quite well. The E was considered the best of the older Case hoes. If she will spin the tires in first and load the front bucket, then your shuttle is probably not slipping. With the toque converter models, the shuttle pump intake screen often gets partially plugged, slowing clutch engagement, and making a very soft shift. There were other problems with the power shuttle, and work on them can be difficult and time consuming. The machine was a little sluggish compared to the later models. You can't post a new thread until you have 5 posts I believe, so you have to piggyback on someone's thread. No problem, we all were new members once. Phil
new user, question about hydrostatic hoes apologies for hijacking, been looking for a thread related to hydro drive hoes to jump in on, and this one seemed like a chance. I have a question..... I'm looking for a hydrostatic hoe tractor or large fork lift tractor that will allow me to install a pto drive and 3 pt hitch on it. If possible, preferably something with 80 hp or more. I've been more or less thinking something with case or IH lineage as I have a neighbor that knows the ag side of these tractors inside and out. (little or nothing about the construction equip tho) I've always wanted to tackle a project of building a snowblower out of either an old hydro drive combine or a hoe with a hydro drive. Now, after suffering bulging discs two years in a row, thanks to too much time turning around to watch the blower, the doctors have decided it's time for me to A. move somewhere warmer (mama sodbuster likes this idea) or B. hire the work done, and I'm not willing to do either. My dad and I reversed an H farmall back in the 60's and I toyed around with using a IH hydro 100 along those same lines, but the H project was a permanent switch, and obviously that isn't in the cards for this deal. I'm hoping something can be done with a hoe so I wouldn't have to redesign the work station to be reversible. Appreciate your thoughts/ advice. Ed
I needed a backhoe for stump pulling and other cleanup work on 40 acres of recreational land in Michigan. What was important to me was the ability to get parts and be able to wrench on it myself if possible. I found a well cared for OLD 580 CK made in 1969 with a tired gas engine. It has a standard dry clutch and no power shuttle, both welcomed by me due to the simplicity. It has the forward reverse column shifter with the standard 4 speed with Hi/LO. I worked the old warhorse HARD for a year and finally the engine gave up. The rings were in pieces, so it was well used! Left the 33 hoe and bucket and brought it home early this winter for a restoration of sorts. I was able to complete the project in my garage with a floor jack, regular tools, engine hoist and a friend. The loader frame was take off and apart. The engine separated and professionally rebuilt then reinstalled by me. New brakes, hand built wiring harness, new radiator, new clutch, rebuilt front end and new hoses. I painted the sheet metal and put some new (not correct on either) decals. Finally put a little custom hood ornament on and lit a cigar! For me the open seat old school easy to work on fit into my plan. It would not be right for everyone.
youve done a great job there.i know how difficult it is having just restored a 1963 fordson super dexta tractor nick.....
New to the forum,have a480e, would like to know how it compares to the 580e as it has many of the same parts(engine ,trans wheels,tires). Also not clear how to lock hoe for travel,thx
Welcome to HEF bluetick. There are many differences with the 480 & 580 hoes. I'll start with what is same though - engines, shuttle, transaxle, control valves for loader & hoe (mounting for loader is more like a 580C) Differences are chassis, loader frame is lighter; hoe is lighter, only a single boom cyl on 480 compared to 2 on 580; Not 100% sure on US configerations - here, wheels were smaller; we only saw the 12' booms & mechanical boom locks ( no hyd locks); the 580's were overcentre boom design but I can't be sure if 480's were - too long since I have seen one - not many were ever sold.
Rasman57: Love your 'freedom' sticker! Well done!
So when did Case change to the cummins engine? Was that engine better then the 207?
I just signed up on this website today, but have spent the last several days reading all I could find on the 580B. I have ten acres of Florida sand with about 70 or 80 pine stumps that need to be pulled. I had considered renting a late model 580, at a cost of approx $800/40 hour week, but ran into an old B model for $2K. Machine is really rough, but runs well, and all hydraulics seem to work. At present rr tire is destroyed, so haven't been able to operate. Owner is supposed to insstall used tire this week so I can try it out. What I have observed so far: missing hood, block has a small crack on left side under fuel filter which is seeping a little water. (no water in oil that I can see). Hyfdraulic fluid running out behing starter where it bolts to bell housing. I understand that this is a wet bell housing and this probably is due to a missing gasket where the starter bolts up. Control wiring to starter is non-existant, is being started with a screw driver across the solenoid. I don't know if any of the guagesw work, haven't gotten that far. Was delivered to my sons place with the destroyed tire, and he unloaded it and parked it that way, so we know it will move. If this old machine will allow me to use it here on the farm (with a small amt of maintenance) for a few months, I could probably sell it for scrap and regain my money. What do you think?
How much fluidis leaking - how quickly does it dump. I just bought an old 580 ck and sounds like the same. I have not even tried to get it in gear yet,because the fluid is running out so fast. What is a wet bell housing? How do I know what style clutch this thing has - plate or hydro(I reaaly don't know much about this machine!) I have a 4 speed stick, a liver on the stalk that appears to be fwd / rev, and a clutch (I think) pedal. Does the converter and shuttle take oil in different fill holes, or is it a commom plug in front of the 4 speed stick? I have been reading threads on shuttle repair and don't look forward to it, but I will get this machine going, just need some options on how to go about it.
anybody on line tonight
bought an old 1970 580 ck needs brakes can anyone suggest cheper parts source tried several sources on line need used parts i guess to stay under 500
informative post!
Hello everyone. First post here. I am reverting to the OP's post from 2007, as I have just purchased a 580B (not sure of year). I decided to order an Operators Manual as well as a Service Manual, and all sites I have been to have specific manuals for the Shuttle Trans vs. Hydrostatic. How can I visually identify which one I have, so I can order the correct manual? Many thanks in advance!
Hello again... I cant find how to edit my own post, so I'll do a quick update here. After some additional research, i found the following webpage http://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/1/0/103-ji-case-580b-transmission.html . This seems to indicate that as long as I have to shift anything, its NOT hydrostatic. Someone please confirm? Assuming that to be the case, how do I figure out if I have the 4 forward & reverse or the 8 fwd & rev?? If I post a photo of the cab controls, can someone give me a little guidance, thanks!
Vlus, I'm not familiar with the 580B as I have the earlier 580CK. I can tell you that if you post the serial number and a photo of the controls there are many fine folks here that can tell you what you need to know. With my limited knowledge I can tell you that you should have at least one manual transmission with which you will have to chose a gear that you wish to operate in. The highest gear, most likely fourth, you would use for a road gear. I would guess that most of your backhoe work would be done in first or maybe second gear. My point is that you'll have to shift into a gear to get the machine moving. You don't shift gears on the move like you would a straight shift truck. A shuttle transmission enables you to go foward or reverse without using the clutch. Sounds like an operator's manual will be a good investment for you. Good Luck! packratc
Thank you so much for the quick and helpful reply! Great idea, I will take some pictures tomorrow. I didn't want to get too crazy with photos and stuff for my first post to the group, but if that would help dial in an answer! That was very enlightening! Thank you! Things are starting to make more sense. (None of the cab controls are labeled, so I'm trying to figure out whats what!) Absolutely... ran a mall Yanmar many years ago, but it was nothing like this, plus everything was labeled The shifter that is on the floor I'm THINKING is a 4 speed gear selector but there's no indication of whats what... anyway... I'll snap some photos and report back tomorrow!
vlus, I cannot determine if you found your answer, but here is some info to help. THere are three clutch systems available on the 580B they are as follows and how to identify... 1: Most popular - power shuttle: a torque convertor system connected to a forward / reverse hydraulic clutch system in front of a four speed manual transmission. Will have one transmission shift on the floor and a foot throttle, a forward reverse lever on the left side of the steering wheel. The clutch pedal is actually just a shuttle dump valve. 2: Manual clutch / shuttle shift: a manual clutch in front of a manual shift forward / reverse box, still controlled by a lever on the left side of the steering wheel, a high low range and four speed transmission. There will be a four speed shift on the floor, plus a high low range lever to the right side of it. You cannot shift these without clutching them, manual dry clutch system... 3: least numbers I believe, the hydrostat transmission: It still has the forward reverse lever in the same spot, but no transmission shift levers on the floor. It has two pedals to the right on the floor plate, one forward, one reverse. It is a infinite speed hydraulic transmission system. There are ebay sellers offering owners manuals that cover all three. :drinkup HTH, Dave
Hello folks. Once again, thanks for some great information. Dave, after reading your post, I believe I have #1 the power shuttle. Not 100% sure what a shuttle dump valve is though Assuming I post the photo that follows, correctly, why are there what appears to be two brake pedales on the right? Also, do I use the clutch to shift the gear selector? packrat... you said ....so, if I wanted to travel in 4th gear... are you saying just pull out in 4th gear? I don't start in 1st, and work up to 4th? The next photo is the serial # tag, which I had hoped to figure out the year of the machine, but the only on line help I could find, the #'s all start with 8's or 9's. Any ideas on this? Thanks! vlus
vlus, Yes, you have the power shuttle. The two pedals to the right are brakes, individual for right and left... There should be a tie bar that also activates the brakes from the clutch pedal, so when loading a truck you can stop forward movement and keep the engine revs up to help raise the loader quicker. Yes, use the clutch to change the gear selection, and no it is not a sycronized transmission, so you stop, choose the gear and take off in that gear. You cannot really change gears on the move without a lot of grinding... You do not have to clutch to move from forward to reverse, but you should stop the tractor first. The ring gear on these unit are rivited to the diff carrier and changing forward to reverse while moving has a tendency to knock them loose... Not good!! Just stop with brakes in gear and move the shuttle forward or reverse and go, the torque convertor takes the change... Oh and BTW, the shuttle is hydraulically operated, so the clutch actually just dumps the pressure to operate it effectively going to neutral. So we always called it a dump... A owner / operators manual will help clear it all up. I think I have seen this tractor on ebay for sale??? HTH, Dave
vlus, One last thing I forgot, the plate in the in that last pic is the loader serial plate. The tractors serial plate should be on right side of the steering column support as you are sitting in the seat. It is often missing.... There are separate serial plates for the tractor, loader, engine, transmission and backhoe on these units (as well as the mod-three point hitch if you can find one). Edit: After looking the first pic closer, I am trying to figure out what the rod is in front of the gear shift?? Where does that go to?? HTH, Dave
vlus, Take a picture of the of the linkage that connects to the clutch pedal, and the lever in front of the gear shift. You may have a manual shuttle... If so you can disregard most of my prior post, I didn't see a range lever so I thought power shuttle. Hey, wouldn't be the first time I have been incorrect, won't be the last!! I hope not though... Dave
Dave, Thanks for some great info. Everything starting to make sense now, and yes, owners manual is ordered and on the way Not sure about ebay... I purchased from: http://www.shetronequipment.com/ I'll take more photos as requested - not really sure from memory if thats another lever in front of the gear shift or some kind of linkage... will find out today for sure! Thx...vlus
vlus, I downloaded the pic of your pedals, and blew it up in photoshop, looks like you have a manual shuttle unit. It looks like there are two shafts protruding from the cover in from of your stick shift. One has a lever that should be connected to the forward / reverse selector, the other should have a gearshift for the range but is missing. This has a automotive type dry clutch and you will have to clutch when moving forward / reverse, or shifting gears. I apologize for the confusion , I could not see that cover last night and was looking for the range lever that is missing. Dave