So far this is what I have found and was wondering, is it worth $7,000? Bit of a drive, says rust is reason for replacement of air bag perch pad, individual selling it. I can weld and have no problems putting it right. https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trailers/for-sale/195008737/1994-featherlite
Problem is where does the rust stop.
As long as it isn't eating the frame I'm sure I can stop it and replace with time the components that are too rusted. Not like I'm using this as OTR and for the two or three trips I do make that will be last of such long distance. Looks as surface rust minor pitting on the frame that can be slowed down, not that I will ever load it to it's weight limit.
Here is another option... https://www.midstatesutility.com/2005-fontaine-dropdeck-2G2i.html
If you like projects and dragging stuff home to work on (which it seems like you do) why limit yourself with a step deck? . Why not a single drop lowboy, drop tail equipment trailer (like the united rentals guys deliver stuff on), or sliding axle trailer tilt deck (like a landoll)? Winch on the trailer deck or on the truck and you can drag all kinds of things home. If you don't mind older trailers, any of those options won't cost much more, and I would think be much more useful around the "ranch". If I was buying a step- it sure wouldn't be a 53'. They are really long and not handy on narrow roads. They are for long haul interstate freight.
I have a 40' shipping container high cube that has been converted to a 5th wheel travel trailer which has 6' tongue that got stopped before I could put axles under it and needs to go 1200 miles. Tried hiring a hauler last year to haul it out they wanted $4,000 and threatened to drop it off wherever they felt like down the road if they didn't have the skills to get it here. Other than that I would just went with just the ones you have posted pictures of. Though another thing is, with a 53 ft spread axle I figure after this one trip being the axles are exactly 10' 1" apart center to center I can cut one off and bob the trailer from the next one up with enough room to attach it again if need be.. That would bring it down to around 48 ft and decrease my load capacity but would be all I need, if I see I need the second axle I can attach it again.
Wow, have you seen a sliding axle or drop tail trailer for a reasonable price? I would love to have one, but scrap goes for better than $20,000 around here.
Well for the price I have seen on the ones I listed are reasonable, have to drive a bit but manageable.
I can get a 40' conex on my rollback trailer. This one is in billings. https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trailers/for-sale/195130393/1986-trail-eze-46x96?CTRY=USA $14,900 If you had to have a 53' this one is tri axle- looks like set up for railroad equipment. Only $10,000 https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trailers/for-sale/195800683/1985-talbert-unknown?CTRY=USA
https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trailers/for-sale/194034421/1999-ledwell-ht48?CTRY=USA
I'm sure a 48' would work too just overhang the end by 2 or 3 ft and reason for split axle on a 53' if I have to had one is turning radius if I lifted the rear axle plus the last 3 miles getting in isn't flat, might drag in few areas. Need the axles forward as possible, if things get stuck might have to unhitch and winch. Trying to not go over $10 on price as that is even pushing it, though some good selections there, the red one looks tempting.
Here is an idea. how about buying a container trailer made to haul shipping containers, haul my 5th wheel shipping container project then weld a deck on after that haul to the chassis. Would the trailer hold up to 40,000 lbs? Reason I ask is cause shipping containers strength is in it walls and my thought is the chassis frame is going to not strong enough since it doesn't need to be, or is it strong enough? https://www.ebay.com/itm/container-...970837?hash=item1f1406b815:g:vN0AAOSw~ttec0bQ
If you get a container chassis, just make sure you get one with 22.5 or 24.5 rims. Most of them still have 20" rubber on them and its a pain to get tires (the one you have linked is 20" rubber).
Probably why it's going so cheap. I was looking closer and looks like way they are engineered is any weight pushing down on the tongue is transferred into the container itself to hold structural integrity through locking it on the corners. Which means it won't hold anything outside a shipping container.
Depends on who built the chassis there are a bunch of custom builders in the NW. Make sure and find something with open wheel wells, That red trailer and ones like them are a pos to remove tires or work under. What ever you end up with look at service ability. And what suspension it has some older trailers can be difficult just to find wheel studs for. And some drum numbers are getting hard to find. Also anything with 12" shoes stay away from those are getting hard to find brake shoes and hard wear.
Looks like I will go with the first one I posted on here. Did a video call and gave me a walk around tour of the trailer of it's problems and what they have done to it. Seems it was a 48' trailer with added 5' on it, has low pro 22.5's, few places it has cracked due to it being aluminum trailer that have been repaired, brakes are new, stiffened brace across top of air bags, created a dump valve 12v system for rear axle, replaced a air bad and lastly welded a new pad for it to sit on (which I don't like their work). They had 3 other air bag perch pads to copy, but guess that was too much work to copy one. Didn't want air bags though for what it's worth it will help with turning.
I hope it works out ok. You never know what you bought till you have owned it for awhile. I would like to buy a trailer but i dont want to send the money right now and i can get buy with what i have.
That trailer is a long ways away spud monkey. Are you sure you want to travel 2,400 miles to get it? Have you tried just putting in montana, oregon, washington and a $15,000 limit and see what comes up for trailers? It would sure be nice to get something that is on your way to where your conex is. At just $2 a mile that's $4,400 you're going to add in just going to get it. That means its equal price to a $11,000 trailer that's somewhat local. If you are really worried about ground clearance, can you get by with a flatbed instead of a step deck? There's lots of 48' flatbeds out there on the coast with container locks built in to them. A flatdeck will have much better ground clearance than a stepdeck. You may also see if there's someone local that is independent of the seller that can do a look over of the trailer before you buy it. Post up here for someone from Iowa to go look at it for you. Or contact a shop that's somewhere close and pay them $200 to go look at it. Might be the best $200 you could spend. Good luck!
Old on there Spud, at least look. https://bend.craigslist.org/hvo/d/powell-butte-40-hay-trailer/7169942562.html
As I was typing of that first one I have found two more, don't necessarily have to be 22.5 or 24.5 wheels on it or 20 for that matter. Needs to be lower deck than regular flatbed for over height problems and I don't feel like dragging anything up that high, needs to about 35' ft. or more and nothing that needs a overhaul. Found one in Oklahoma and Texas for $8500 or less. My semi sure doesn't drink at $2 a miles more like $.50 empty and $1.00 hauling, though thought about not me driving that far but for whatever trailer I get, get someone to haul it to Montana after a shop looks at it before buying. I'm sure since I am not in a rush I can find someone wants to make buck off it hauling a load along the way and give better price in Uship. Lastly if the ground clearance gives me a problem I will fight it the first round of getting my stuff on the property, but come the second round I and that ground clearance problem are going to go round and round with a tractor and I don't lose. Too high up, and too spendy for a regular flatbed. I can definitely find plenty of those nearby, Thanks for looking out though.
How tall is your conex? Or are you more concerned about the deck height when it comes time to load and unload it?
It may not cost you $2 a mile for just fuel in one trip, but its going to cost you that minimum with the upkeep. Tires, fluids and repairs all add up and you have to figure that in the cost. A blown tire on the side of the road will cost you $800 between the tire and the roadside charge.
Both, since I don't have fork lift nor any equipment yet and won't for sometime to lift that high up and ramps would be asking for trouble. The conex is 9.5 ft. tall.
have to throw my two cents in this. what about license & insurence costs as well as trip permits. have not heard any mention of those
Insurance I haven't problem with that. As for license as in registration that is covered under my semi registration up to 50k lbs. Might pull a trip permit for a safety net. All this is under farm use since it isn't commercial as I am not making money off it.
There is one in Bend Or on CL for $15,000 that most likely needs no work, make an offer for less.
keep in mind when you start crossing state lines, even with farm tags, you are subject to each state's rules. you will have to have a permit for each state you enter, and don't forget fuel tax for each state. What is the operating radius on your insurance? I bought a trailer in Michigan
I have commercial insurance through Progressive with no known radius though the semi is registered under farm use in Montana, doesn't say farm us on the plates and this is a private vehicle, nothing commercially done. I even managed to pull off getting Army Veteran license plates on this rig. As far as the whole fuel tax they can kiss my arse, not like I'm doing this everyday just two trips then it will spend it's days hauling supplies as needed to build my homestead and whatever projects that I conjure up over the years. Not getting into trucking business.
Every port of entry will pull you in then they will instruct you on what's needed or not needed.
I enjoy weekend nighttime drives for a reason
Port scales never close and running around them brings unwanted attention. Local cops look for out of state plates.
Well something like this seems to bring less hassle. Will need to change it to a king pin, but will do the job. https://greatfalls.craigslist.org/tro/d/black-eagle-gooseneck-trailer-pj-40/7155716496.html
Why yes it will, there is one of the same for sale locally for the same price. Just add a bolster plate and pin. It will probably do every thing you need. Plus a bunch closer for you.
Look at that RZ is on line.
This guy is offering this one at $5200 has 10R15 wheels, should I run far away from it, seems like sensible thing to do. https://klamath.craigslist.org/hvo/d/klamath-falls-1985-kalyn-step-deck/7174949052.html
Alright I have settled for this one, bought it for $8100 is on my route to Miles City MT and will be making a adapter tomorrow for it to fit in my semi 5th wheel. Going to look at it this weekend and pick it up then. https://spokane.craigslist.org/hvo/d/deer-park-40-j-goose-neck-trailer/7172847364.html
Just don’t forget to add an electric brake controller to the truck for trailer brakes
I saw the one in K-Falls and the one in Spokane last night. That one in K-Falls had to be just listed-I look there three times a week for non compliant California trucks. Looks like a good trailer you bought.
Yeah it was and I almost had one for $3k that seemed to be worn down some from same person, but like one other it was sold few hours ago. I like this one comes with sliding winches and on the route not too far off. I will as I have on my current rig and run a 7 wire out the back to charge a battery for winch and to have back up/work lights.
My gooseneck trailer has a round pipe neck, this is my semi truck adapter. You can do the same thing with square tubing. Just make sure your trailer neck is long enough that you don't catch the trailer on your rear tandems. May have to slide your 5th wheel back.
I'd add a plate and ball behind the fifth wheel, Tow travel trailers too!!
That Utility Outer rail flatbed 20' Full Trailer for sale in Columbia MO for the last year on the permanent Joe Dog had me thinking of RZ, it finally sold for $3500 last month.
Already in the works, I have to be in Spokane on Saturday to meet with it. Fun part is the plate isn’t flat, this is going to be interesting to grind down and weld on.
I plan on the likes except to tow the スバル (Subaru) around. Thing is I just need some time.
Cut a piece of 1/4"flat plate the same outside diameter as the kingpin. Make it look like a doughnut, with a inside hole just bigger than the high center part of the new kingpin. Weld the inner hole and weld the outside edge gap, then weld that to your square tubing. I would be too lazy to grind that all flat.
I would be too lazy to grind it all flat and all that cutting, I rather just grind down where the square tubing meets up flat weld it on then weld gussets on four corners with triangles.
Was going to suggest, situate the square, mark the outline and grind a square plane to fit the box, be better as does stick up inside the tube. Would still add a drop ball plate behind the fifth wheel, Just In Case but later and the cat 4 hitch plate at the rear for the Subie.
The nice thing about using fifth wheel instead of gooseneck is no safety chains required for dot
Nothing bad of safety chains. Providing the rest of the hitch mechanism is in good order. The entire purpose is for the safety of others should the trailer come away. Have witnessed the losing of a Fifth Wheel pin type trailer as the jaws set Prior to the trailer actually coupling, the driver did a timid pull off friction held the trailer in place, rolled up dollies, connected remaining couplers went to leave the yard and dropped the trailer on our yard shack attendants doorstep, fifth wheel STILL closed. Not going to fix what's broken if cannot see it or overly trust it. Luckily it was not loaded heavy, only took one wrecker to lift it to set it back on landing gear, I was the wrecker operator that day and the mechanic that replaced the bent up landing gear. Same **** different day at Feld Leasing, St Louis, Emerson driver stopped for truck service, got in a hurry, Similar wheel(Fontaine) tripped as he left the shop and he did not stop to check when slammed under the trailer, NO pull off this time, just connected the lines and cord, released the brakes and dumped the 48 foot dry van in the middle of Broadway STL MO. I was NOT the wrecker operator that time, they paid a shyster outfit in STL for TWO recovery Trucks to have it lifted high enough to drag to our yard. BAD JuJu!!
I am retired so no reason to rush a rig, plus I'm picky on checking my rigs. A safety chain will be used for JIC just in case. It being my personal property is all the more reason to check everything along with I don't like high insurance rates or tow bills.
I have nothing against safety chains just one less thing for dot to look for all of my personal trailers have them and they get used I did Heavy wrecker for about 5 years I’ve seen some crazy **** with trailers coming disconnected hell if the shop where I’m at now touches my fifith wheel pictures are took before I leave the yard of the jaws latched I don’t trust some of our mechanics lol