Serial (machine) jmp02269 Serial (engine) either g32ae-117 (that is from a tag on the front cover. Arrangement #319-6806). Or from the dealer CYM26879 Either way a c3.4. So the engine started making a nasty noise this morning. Took me a couple of hours to get to it to look. The operator said that at first he thought it was a noise from the rotary mower that was on it. There were no warning lights (like perhaps low oil pressure). He did say that it seemed pretty low on oil. I can't really quantify that, I do know that the oil (which is mostly new just added oil) feels pretty thick. I wonder how long it has been since he checked the oil. And.... Where did the oil go? The engine turns over exactly as you would expect from the dampener. But when he fired it up the noise is pretty disturbing. It sounds like something is trying to break out of the engine from the inside. And it is not a steady or rhythmic noise. Kind of comes and goes. My best guess is a broken con rod. I would love to hear anyone else's theories. So I need to pull the engine to pull the oil pan to look. Last year I had to replace both of the rear torque axles on this unit. It looked like I would have to remove the hydrostatic pump to do it (I didn't, just had to remove the hydraulic pump and swear a lot) but I remember that when I looked into how to separate the engine from the hydro pump that there were a couple of special tools to remove the the the bolts. I can't seem to find what I was looking at last year. Has anyone in the forum had to pull an engine from one of these? Any tips or advice?
1. Order new machine. 2. Make sure insurance is up to date. 3. Set it on fire. 4. Enjoy new machine.
Maybe some useful info in this one... HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks, Davo. I watched his video diary of pulling the engine last week. I really appreciate that he posted it. But he has a D model and I have a C. It did not look like the same engine. But you did lead me to the part number for the strange tool required to remove the hidden bolts to the hydrostat. That is much appreciated. Hope it is also the right one for my C. Looks like a 14mm gear wrench that attaches to a 3/8 drive. Pretty spendy, the dealer has it at almost $300, but I wouldn't be able to make one without knowing how long it had to be.
Very funny. But not really an option that I can present to the client. (just between us... I did actually tell him what you said). I agree with the sentiment. There is going to be a rainbow colored mushroom cloud of obscenities hovering over Hawaii for weeks after I pull this engine.
There is information on one or more threads here regarding what is needed to make that special wrench for getting at the two bolts which hold the hystat pump.
Anyway, I cut open the oil filter today. Had to wait to have a replacement to do it. Lot of metal, but nothing chunky. I expected chunks to support my con rod theory. Is the larger stuff just too heavy to be picked up by the engine oil pump sump or is there a magnet in the oil pan?
Photos.?
Something is on its way out. Won't heal itself is all I can say. Question is what is causing it. Wonder what the mains and rods look like. Simon C
I just finished R+R the engine on my 262C, which I believe has the same engine and layout. My machine has the Mitsubishi engine, the AC condenser is on the engine side of the firewall, and the plastic hydraulic tank is on the pump side of the firewall. It's not that bad of a job, nor is it that great either; getting the pumps off and then back on is a pain. I did not buy the tool for the 14mm pump bolts. It would have been more useful on the D model I just did as well than this C model. I removed the hydraulic tank in order to access the pump bolts, as well as several things that have to be unbolted from the adapter plate. I did not remove the cooling package. Removing the engine is pretty standard once the pumps are unbolted. It helps immensely to have somebody helping with reinstalling the engine and getting the pumps bolted back up.
A lot of cash out of someone’s wallet.
Pulled the engine today. Noise was con rod to crank bearing on cylinder one. Strange that the noise wasn't rhythmic when I first looked at it. But somehow the bearing was spinning so maybe it was able to put parts of itself in the right place to stop the noise for a few rotations. I had to operate it a little to get it into position for the removal and it was pretty steady then. All in all not too bad of a process. I did buy the "special" tool from cat. About $300 and got used only to break the pump bolts loose. So, about a minute of use. I should have tried harder to find one of the links for making it. Maybe I will paint it gold and give it to the owner as pendant. I did pull the hydraulic tank for better access. And I removed the cooling package, I wasn't going to but someone took the Gradall that I was planning on using from my yard. Anyway, glad I did because trying to work under the coolers to unbolt all of the hoses and wires from the back of the engine would have made me angry.
That's from the pan.
That's what is left of the bearing. I am thinking new engine. This one has 7000 plus hours on it. What is the alternative? New crank and bearings, con rod for at least piston one, rings. If I am going that deep I would be pretty concerned about where else the metal went through the lube system. Let me know what you guys think.
The parts that have disappeared from the bearing and crank first fall into the pan, if engine is running fast some are sucked up through the oil pump, some make it through to the oil cooler to come out one day as a surprise. With 7000 hours on the unit, you will need a lot of parts and no guarantees things won't go south. Let the owner buy a new one that you can install, you won't have to worry if something goes bad as you did not build. Labour out, labour in. Is there enough life to make worthwhile at I'm guessing U.S. around $20000 plus. Loose a pump down the road, and there will be some cussing. Make sure you protect yourself. Simon C
$20K in parts into a machine worth $20K before the "let go". I didn't go to math school but....
At 7k hours, that’s pretty much at full life for a skid steer. Simon is correct in saying you should protect yourself. $20k is also a pair of drive motors when they go south soon. I get it though, the replacement machine is $150k. I have these discussions w/ customers constantly. Maybe cut the hydraulic filter open for piece of mind (insurance for you). Make sure you do the plastic drive coupling before you put it together. At 7k hours it wont like being disturbed one bit.
I didn't see a plastic coupling, is it inside the flywheel housing?
It's behind that cover.
Unbolt #2, and the plastic coupler is bolted to the flywheel.
Thanks guys. I just didn't look close enough before.
Any one got a part number. I am not sure if is going to be on the "fully dressed" engine that is on its way.
Item #1 on the attachment.
Thanks, Nige.