Hey guys, new to the site. this is my first useful post. i am here asking for some help regarding my LS170. i was running it as usual and all of a sudden it quit on me. at first i thought i jolted so hard the key turned off bc thats what it sounded and acted like. but when i looked up the key was in the On position. i quickly noticed that there were no dash lights on as usual, if nothing else than the seatbelt light flashing. also, i was getting a continuous beeping. i tried jumpering both the seat switch and the seatbelt switch thinking it could have something to do with it. that was a no-go i think it is an electrical issue but i am not familiar enough with this machine to track down an electrical issue. can some of you seasoned NH mechanics assist? Machine is a New Holland LS170 2006 rubber tire skid steer Thanks, Jason EDIT: here is a pic of my machine actually the same day i began to have problems:
I have a ls 180 that did the same thing and it was the battery terminal that came off.
If you were at that angle, it could have been the low oil level kill. also be careful with the start proceedure. You have to restart with the right sequence. That is shut the key off, sit in the seat, hook up your belt, turn the key on and start,and observe the failure code.
on one hand, i hope this is not it as i will feel super stoopid! lol. on the other i hope it is this as this is an easy fix! thanks for the input well i would agree except that i was up and down the embankment all afternoon, i did not stay at that incline for more than 30 seconds, just long enough to get a bucket full. Thanks for the input guys. i will def check out the batt situation Jason
ls 170 I have a LS 170 that does the same thing it was the ignition fuse replaced it and now it blows about one a day any suggestions out there?
Don't know anything about the LS170, but would the ignition fuse be the fuse that supplies power to the injection pump shut down solenoid? If so, solenoid probably going south, or solenoid relay has poor connections. Just a thought.
" Originally Posted by cliffg50 View Post "I have a LS 170 that does the same thing it was the ignition fuse replaced it and now it blows about one a day any suggestions out there?" Is it the ignition fuse in the cab fuse panel or one in the engine bay box? When it is blown will the machine start in the service position?
ok i went out and tried a few things last night. it seems ALL battery connetions are good. i cranked the machine and wiggled all the connections i could find to try and recreate the problem. nothing! i even pulled and check all fuses while the machine is running and got nothing. does anyone have a schematic of the wiring fuses/relays in the engine bay of the machine? one of the solenoids has a broken post and i need to replace it (although this did not seem to affect the running of the machine) also, what is the electrical solenoid underneath the coolant filter? is that a temp sensor? one of the prongs is broken off
ls 170 does anyone have a wiring diagram. I disconnected the green and black wire and it stopped blowing fuses, need to know what it controls unit still runs w/o it hooked to acc side of ign. switch. Any ideas? thanks Cliff
What year is your machine? I have a drawing for I believe about year 2000 machine and it shows light green/black from the key switch to accessory relay which feeds wiper and washer on the door and looks like it feeds the lights fuse 15amp also. On the 2000 machine the accessory relay is top left in the engine bay box.
Mine is a 2001 sounds the same. Is there anyway you can fax or send me a copy I'll be glad to pay you for them. Thanks for the info if you can let me know I'll send info. Thanks, Cliff
I'll try to resize it here but may not come out legible, I could send it e-mail i think if you have a address to send to. If you post address here use at for @.
UPDATE: ok so after running the machine a few times i finally tracked down the problem. i was out yesterday doing some site prep work and it kept shutting off on me. i finally got pissed and started hitting the fuse panel and dash. it quickly recovered from shutting down! i removed the dash panel and low and behold a wire was loose on the end of the connector. i had to solder a lead wire from the pin to a butt connector so i can remove the wire later if needed. after plugging in the loose wire and buttoning everything back up she has been golden -cutts-
that's nice that it was so easy to fix. am replying with nothing to say really its just that in order to post a question i have to reply 3 times to various things first. this is my second.
fixed the starting issue, now it's shutting down and the hydrostactic light comes on it starts back but shut down within seconds. Any help out there?
On this unit, the likely cause of that light to flash is the sending unit failure. you can usually see a visible leak from the sensor, but not always. The sensor is located right beside the hydraulic oil filter housing at the back right corner. Lift and lock the booms in the raised position and open the rear door, lift the top screen and remove the right side panel. The sensor can be disconnected to see if the light stops coming on, however if the sensor is working and there is a actual problem with the pump you are removing that safety. The sensor is not that costly so that would be the first place to check.
I have an 2004 ls180. It was working fine and i shut it down for the night. The next morning i went to start it and it wouldn't start. I turned the toggle switch to bypass the safety switch and it started but will not run when you turn the toggle back to the run position. The display is completely blank and when you turn the key on it makes a beeping sound that never stops. I have checked the seat belt switch and the seat switch and they are working fine. I also checked the fuses in both compartments. they are all fine. I don't have access to a wiring diagram. I was wondering what I could check to figure out where i am loosing power, or what should i do next?
There are a few quick things to check first. 1. Make sure the service/run switch is in the run position. Key off. Now get in the machine. does the machine beep and does the display light up? If so, the wire from the seat to cluster is ok. If not then check the seat switch connector. one of the two wires may be broken. 2. If dash lights up in step 1. connect your seat belt. The seat belt light should go out. If that goes out and it still won't crank over, let me know and we can go further. If it does not go out than there is a problem between your seat switch to the belt switch or up to the dash. Good luck. Cheers.
Hello all. First post here. I have a problem similar to curtis. I do have a service manual and schematics detailed in it for my NH LS190. EIC engages when I sit in the seat, seat belt goes off when I latch my belt. Turn the key to run, beeps and warming countdown runs. I turn the key to start, I hear the starter relay click and then nothing. The EIC goes blank until I turn the key back to stop. When this started, it seemed like the batteries were dead as it moaned and groaned trying to start...then got slower and slower until it just clicked repeatedly, but the EIC stayed lit up. Now its just one click and all goes blank. I read good voltage on both batteries (12.6V+/-) as well at the key switch. I did notice that when I turn the key to start and all goes blank, there is no longer voltage at the switch (actually 0.5V). I've checked all fuses with ohm meter. Any ideas? I'm thinking starter issue, but really I don't have a clue at this point and I need this thing running on Tuesday. On a side note, I repaired 5 broken grounds on the bell,housing and thought this was for sure my issue. It wasn't, but I am curious as to how they were broken. Definitely smashed, but between the bell housing and hydro oil tank? its plastic and 4" away????
when the starter interlock relay on my lx665 was bad it acted very similar, I could however start it in service without the belt buckled then switch to run and buckle the belt and use it but that was the only way. I have read of a diode in the engine bay fuse box on the newer ones that causes problems though.
Thanks for the reply stovein. I'm thinking maybe the starter relay is my problem. It seems like a relay issue the more I think about it, but not the interlock in my case as "service" mode doesn't work either. I've heard of a diode problem as well, but I don't know if it applies to a 2000 model.
Have you tried quickly turning it to start several times like you would with a car with a sticky solenoid? My starter interlock relay would kick in if I tried it over and over but I didn't try that at first.
Hi Everybody 4/11/2011 Just signed up, Cappy29 seems to be the man w/ New Hollands. I would be much appreciated if anybody can help. I see alot of other people have an electrical problem. Heres mine. Using the machine all is good, hit a large bump & machine dies, but outside headlamps still on, instrument cluster dead, won't start or even turn over, 5 amp fuse in rear fuse box blown. After some time of searching I take the over head cluster out. (Left of key) it has 11 pin connector & a 14 pin connector & also costs over $800.00 to replace. On the back is a capacitor the size of an M80 firecracker. It was not connected to the back of (what I'm told) EIC board. So I resoldered to the board replaced the fuse & waalaa. I "THOUGHT" it was fixed, moved about 5 feet & boom dead again. Replaced the fused & as I put it in, POP. I'm told that the board is no good & need to replace, is that something anybody else experienced & am I being told something that is not correct! I'd like to know before I lay out $800 & still not be the problem. Thank you in advance to anybody that can help. One of the best pcs of equipment I own, raelly never had a problem with it!
Zack6353, That capacitator has been known to break off on the the old style cluster. That tells me we are looking at a LS series unit or an older LX series. What model unit are we talking about? I am assuming the 5amp fuse is for the EIC, as per the back of the fuse panel cover. And yes I know what people say about making assumptions. First thing I would do is double check the repair of that EIC. Verify that the solder job is good and not making any EXTRA connections. Then I would see if it still blows the fuse, with the key off. If so, disconnect the two connectors from the EIC and install another fuse. If it blows the fuse with the EIC disconnected, the short must be in the wiring and not in the board. After that, I would bo a little bit more investigating as to the conditions when the fuse pops. ie: key off and it blows as soon as you install fuse, fuse blows when key is turned to the run position and so on. After all a few fuses are alot cheaper than a new EIC. Good luck and let me know what you find. Cheers.
Hi Cappy29 Thank you for your prompt reply, 2001 LS170, yes 5amp EIC fuse you are correct & fuse does not blow when key is off & I will check if it does that with board disconnected. Is it possible that capacitor is bad & is that what caused the machine to stop running. You seem to be very knowledgeable & I would assume a mechanic for these. The 1st time I soldered the capacitor back on, it ran like normal, used for about 10 minutes & the fuse blew. The capacitor didn't fall off so I thought it was a bad capacitor or my solder job wasn't good. So i removed the capacitor & tried again. Put all together, turn key on "POP" I took to an electronics store & was told if the capacitor was no good the back end that is impressed with an "X" would be bulging out. 1. Would the machine still run w/o the capacitor 2. Do you know if the board would still be good w/ replacing the capacitor 3. If need to replace board, any place you would recommend 4. What's your opinion on refurb boards 5. What is the best time your on the forum I greatly appreciate your help, My 2011 start has been not good & finally secured a job & now I'm dealing with this. Although I really can NOT complain about this machine, its been great to me. Besides human error, the only problems I had is the emergency brake & a hose that runs from transmission to the back, thru the chasse that rubbed a hole in the hose. So I spliced right there & now the couplin is in the chasse thru way. I guess the bushing wore out to cover the steel edge. The emergency brake is a whole nother issue. The screw to loosen the arm broke so I can not loosen to adjust. "HUMAN ERROR" I snapped it of somehow.
Hi Cappy29 I have a LS170 has been running great but today all of a sudden the 15amp ignition fuse in the engine bay fuse panel blew. it took me a while to find it put a new one in and away i went till i hit a bump then blew the next one. DSo far i have blow 6 fuses. i have checked all the wiring while motor is running to try and make it stop. it seems to be when i load the machine up skewing and lifting with all hydraulics. Please help very frustrated!!!!!
I have a lx665 with same problem replaced EIC board safety interlock still blows 5 amp fuse when in run mode
replace the hydraulic sensor back by the filter, they seem to fail pretty regularly. Not sure if you just uplug it if that will work or not.
disregard that last post. I was on the wrong page.
Found the problem it was a control valve solenoid after new seat belt harness, EIC board, and safety interlock relay were installed
ls 170 starting Had the same problem with my ls170 ended up being the acc. side of the ign. sw. It kept blowing ign. fuse, I'd check that . I went through all the same steps you did until I unhooked the acc. wire and it hasn't done it since. The down fall is the lights don't work. I've learned to live with it, if it becomes a problem I'll direct wire them with in line fuse and separate sw. Hope this helps . Cliff
Sounds very much like what my C175 did. Above head and to the right there is a fuse panel. The way the panel mounts to the cab is at an angle, when securing the panel is pushes some of the connections of the fuse block at a bad angle. Had to solder a few and the problem has gone away. BUT on another time it was the interlock relay causing similar issues. ELECTRICAL :drinkup