Looking for help to get my LX665 running. Background: skidsteer has been sitting for about 2 years and turns over but will not start. Cracked injector line at injector and no fuel comes out even during turning over. Have checked electric prepump and it is pumping fuel to injection main pump. Also verified the fuel cutoff solenoid is getting voltage when key switch is in the on position. I also have removed the fuel cutoff solenoid and it does retract with 12volts is applied. Also tried for the heck of it, jumpered the fuel cutoff directly to 12volts and could hear it actuate, but still no start. So....I am stuck, any suggestions short of removing and replacing the main pump/distributer unit?
It sounds as if the control rack in the inj. pump is stuck.. THAT happens when they sit.. Remove the solenoid again, its on the "backside" of the inj. pump right?? & screws in.?? Reach in the hole w/ your finger, small screwdriver or scribe.. u should be able to move the rack back & forth.. if u push it, t should spring back towards u..IF NOT, its stuck.. U might be able to free it up by using a 90* scribe & push & pull the rack.. DONT hammer on it.. if u cant get it by hand, the pump has to come off to be cleaned.. Do not try to take it apart on the machine.. IF u click on my screen name it will give u contact info..{L hand side of page}
Thank you fellow South Carolinian thepumpguysc. Yes the solenoid is on the backside of the pump and i think i undestand what you are refering to as the "rack". So the solenoid pushes on the rack when not powered closing off the fuel? Can i spray wd40 into solenoid hole?
Be sure to remove the solenoid if you pull the pump.
No, WD wont do anything[external}.. the problem lies within the inj. pump itself.. {internal} The plunger & barrels are stuck from sitting w fuel in its bore.. I DO NOT recommend taking that pump apart to investigate.. As SOON as u loosen the top nut on that pump.. bad things will happen that might be costly.. U COULD, remove the fuel inlet line & blow out the old fuel that's in the pump.. then mix up a concoction of paint thinner & transmission fluid..{ATF} & squirt it into the inlet of the pump.. Let that sit for a day or so & keep doing it.. All the while, moving the throttle from hi to low several times.. IT MIGHT free the rack, & it might not.. whadya gotta lose.?? ALSO try starting it/cranking it over.. just to get the cam that runs the pump on a diff. stroke.. Leave the solenoid OUT.. & loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS.. NOT on the pump.. Good luck.
I'll be away from the computer for awhile.. I gots lotsa work to do..lol
Thanks for the info guys. I'm a bit confused about not removing the pump from the housing. It looks like you remove the 6 bolts on the face of the pump (after removing the lines to the injectors) and it just pops right out as as a module. pictures on web look like it has cam followers so the cam remains solid in the main housing without disturbing timing? Am I all wrong?
First try pumpguy's suggestion of blowing out the old fuel with air then remove the fuel line that feeds from the filter to the pump and spray paint thinner + ATF into the pump via the fitting at that point. You'll also need to loosen/disconnect the injector lines at the injector end. That mixture will access the guts of the pump almost as well as disassembly would. As you pointed out, removing the pump is probably that not difficult. Disassembling it also. It's when you get to re-assembly and re-installation where the fun really starts...........believe me you don't want to be going there.
Yes, pump surgery is not on my bucket list. Thanks again.
If your having trouble understanding it & cant find directions via the web for a NH machine.. TRY google & type in a Kubota injection pump removal.. There are hundreds of videos on that machine.. They're all basically the same procedure.. The 1 BIG alert I'll mention is>> Take out the solenoid FIRST>> BEFORE loosening the bolts on the pump..