I have had my Case 1845B for a few months now. I acquired some miscellaneous parts along the way as well, such as an auger (no back plate or pivot), forklift forks (just forks, no backplate or guard), Case D130 backhoe (no adapter bracket). So now I need to fab the rest of the parts to fit my machine. The skidsteer has the Case quicktach for the time (mid 80s) but is not the same as the newer quicktach with the levers. I was considering making an adapter to go from the older to the newer style quicktach, but may just stick with the older version. as it is simpler to fab, and I am not using this as a business, so time is not of the essence usually. I will also not likely need to rent attachments. What thickness are the backplates usually made of? I have seen some flimsy looking ones online made of 10 gauge or so, but would think that 1/4" would be better. Is 1/4" plate stout enough to base an auger pivot on? Also, I have been looking into making a toothbar. Is the bar that the teeth are welded to any special grade of steel, or is A-36 fine to use? I need to make a new edge for the bucket, and would like to put a bolt on cutting edge on that. Is AR-400 what is usually used for that? Is it needed if a bolt on cutting edge is used? Thanks for the advice, as I would like to get all the details ironed out in advance, so I only have to make it once.
I have built several different attachments over the years. I found its usually stronger, easier and faster to buy pre-stamped plates to start with. I however have the standard quick tach. When buying plates though I only buy ones that are 5/16" or thicker depending on the application. I do this because I will work my equipment to its fullest potential without abuse, and down time to repair an attachment I need is expensive. John
I've built several attachments for my skid loaders, and agree with JD, 5/16's is a minimum on the back plates. As for putting new edge on your bucket, most good welding shops supply cutting edge that you can buy exactly to the length you need and either bolt it on or weld it. It's expensive per foot but you will at least have your choice of thicknesses and widths to suit your applications and needs. Do you have the single pin in the middle like the mustangs and older owatona's? Not really sure how the older Cases are set up....... I know the mustang's had a tapered pin hole in the middle which in my mind is a bit harder to fab but it can be done.
Hi Walker, I've also had and 1845B for a couple of months. I had the quick attach off of it last night doing some straightening and repair. Once properly lined up I think this thing will be very useable. It is similar to the older Kubota quick attach. Love the machine so far. Seems pretty simple to work on. Greg
The early Case quicktach was a half circle that grabs the top pin, then the bottom pin holes line up when lifted.
Regarding the tooth bar - bear in mind that welding to hardened alloys such as AR 400 will change the hardness. The more welding the less hardness. Also, depending on thickness, the cross section of AR 400 changes in hardness. I would suggest welding the teeth or tooth attachments to a mild (such as A36) bar and hard facing the leading edge as the best most cost effective alternative. Hard facing can be repaired as it wears. I agree with Monte1255 that buying a commercially made cutting edge is the simplest way to go. They are available in many widths and thicknesses, but can be a pain to weld on. You need to use a welding alloy designed for medium carbon steels and stitch the edge on. Preheat to about 300F is a big help along with controlled cool down at about 50F / hr. There will be some bucket distortion and likely some cracked weld stitches. Once the cutting edge is welded on, I have used heat and a come-a-long to pull the bucket back to a straight edge. Keep the tension on until the bucket is cooled down to ambient temp.
Dinger49, I know what you are saying with the warping and distortion, welding in close succession is more the cause than anything. IE working from one end to the other. Break it up a bit......... Weld on the end, skip to the middle........ weld on far end etc. should help a lot. :drinkup
Agreed, Monte1255. I tack the ends with about a 1" stitch then work from the middle going both ways. The end tacks will crack and grind out and repair as you get to them. Avoid too much weld in any one area so it doesn't overheat. I find that about 4" stitches every 12" and opposing each stitch on the bottom side as you go. Then come back and fill in the gaps. Again, welding alloy selection helps a lot. I have tried using my mig to weld, but find the wire I am using does not work well, so went back the the stick welder and used UTP 62. Better sucess, but if somebody has good results with another alloy, I would like to know. My latest skid steer has a reversable bolt on cutting edge on a 7-1/2' wide bucket. This is my preferred option from now on.
LOL and I thought I was the only one still using a stick welder.. can honestly say I've never had a cutting edge break off on me even using the old standby 6011 welding cutting edge to mild steel bucket. Of coarse the material I used was a bit heavier than normal, but it worked well. Nonetheless, Alloy steels are inherently more stable and stand up better under demolition clearing operations. I guess I can't always be choosey about what the repair is made out of as the wallet dictates a lot to me these days. Few years ago I built a root rake for my 953 and built it entirely out of 1020......had good luck with it and no breaking at all, price for an 8' root rake was about $1500 plus my time to build. Not a bad price I thought, but a week after I built it I happened to need to go to a salvage yard and wouldn't ya know....right in the front yard was a 8' root rake for a 953, all set up with grapple and everything......guy wanted 500 bucks for it............. kicked myself pretty severely when I saw that. ........... One more good deal is gonna kill me........lol
I believe that. Just about to make a grapple for my Gehl 7810. Decided to use 4 - 36" pallet forks for the bottom and build the grapple. Seems I have lots of trees to move due to the Emerald Ash Bore in this area. I still like my old stick welder for the heavy stuff. With 2 loader tractors and the skid steer there is always something that needs repair or modifying. I only have .035 hard wire for my mig. Real handy for most stuff but I am old school when it comes to the heavier iron.
Since you are replacing the cutting edge and would like a tooth bar have you considered a rezloh cutting edge? No experience with them myself but it does look like a good thing.
Their a pretty slick edge, I like mine. However you best be sitting down when you call and price one.
I was not familiar with the rezloh edge, but after looking at them on the web, they look like a good thing. There were some prices when you looked up edges for specific make of sst's. It may justify if you need a toothed edge, but they are a significant premium over a standard straight edge. It also looks like there are different alloys for different applications - AR 400, AR 500, and T1. It would take some homework to determine which one is best suited to your application.
The rezloh cutting edge looks to be just the ticket, but at about $1000, I don't think I could afford to buy one. I wonder about setting up a torch guide to cut one.
I bought a Rezloh Edge for my LX565 a few years ago. Seems like I gave about $500.00 from my NH dealer. I was well pleased at the improved digging ability it provided. I have never tried a tooth bar so I can't make any valid comparisons there. When I bought my L190 last year, it came with a Rezloh Edge. I leave the Rezloh Edge on my machine all the time. Even when back dragging for road repairs it leaves a nice pattern in the dirt. Tim