Finally back working on the old W900A. I've more or less got the cab stripped to basically nothing. Just curious, with the mix of aluminum and steel on these cabs, how to slow the process of galvanic corrosion. This is a Canadian cab, so its skeletal structure is more or less all steel, with the only aluminum really being the doors, rear cab wall and door frames. I'm noticing a mix of aluminum and possibly galvanized hucks on most parts, as well as buck rivets holding the door frames in place. My plan for reassembly is to use thin plastic (think corrosion discs between aluminum and steel wheels) or a coat of sealant where aluminum and steel are in contact. Where I'm really running into a snag is what material to use for the fasteners that are in contact simultaneously with steel and aluminum. Anybody know what PACCAR did back in the day when they built these trucks?
Would the nylon washers that have a short tube work? I don't know what they are called. I've seen them used in boats and would stop electrolysis.
I don’t think PACCAR did anything to prevent corrosion. They didn’t plan for us to be restoring 40 year old trucks, but here we are. That stainless rub piece on the door sill is the worst offender. What a disaster. The driver tracks de-icer into the cab, it marinates on the door sill and the entire bottom piece rots away. Plus, under the floor mat.
They are called 'shoulder washers' Check out DigiKey. Its a Canadian nuts and bolts co. d.d.
Thanks d.d. now I won't look like a stupid old fart trying to explain myself.
Everything I've been reading says aluminum is more reactive to stainless than standard steel. Funny thing is the aluminum under the stainless rub plate was in significantly better condition than the aluminum in contact with the steel cab frame along the bottom.
If any place blind huck rivets or collared hucks are used on a truck cab, nothing is to have a washer, those will loosen in no time just with slight cab flex. And will crack paint over the top. I've seen where that was tired in past.
The further apart on this list, the greater the galvanic reaction, concentrated on the metal that is less noble (lower on the list). From here https://www.archtoolbox.com/galvanic-action/ Now, this is a very simplified list, and doesn't list the various grades of stainless or passivated stainless, among other metals.
Anyone happen to know what grade of aluminum they used on these cabs? Can't find anyone who makes replacement panels for these old cabs. Tried a KW dealer years ago and was pretty much told I was SOL for parts. I'm just going to buy a 5' x 9' sheet of aluminum and fabricate a replacement skin.
6111 is normally used--common in body panels. There was a shop in Texas making body parts, but at those prices most either make they're own or find used.
Thanks. I can't see it being too hard to do. It's just one piece wrapped from the rear of each door and around the back. Heck I might even see if the cab corner windows from a B cab would fit the bend radius. Would be a unique look.
Jason Keeler. Keeler Custom Restoration Jersey Shore, Penn. 570-263-0921 570-279-1144.
I'll have to write that down. What I find interesting is they sell the cab corner panels, which means there's a 3rd panel in the middle, with a rear window. I've never seen a W900A that had three rear panels, it's always just been one large panel.
Bonnell Aluminum Named Quality Award-Winner by PACCAR Bonnell Aluminum has been named one of PACCAR’s 10PPM quality standard award winners for 2022. bonnellaluminum.com
I've seen several three piece. All pre 65 cab are three piece.
Stopped by the dealer tonight for lockbolts and collars. As expected none of the numbers they could find subbed up to anything current. Had them look up the ones for a B cab, assuming they're probably the same. Only had a couple on hand so I bought them to compare and try out. They sold me MGP98T lockbolts. Will these work? Is there somewhere else a guy could get these that are good quality but less than the $2 for a single bolt and collar? See them on Amazon but I really do not trust the quality of a company whose name looks like someone's cat typed it out. Have no qualms paying dealer prices if they are the best you can get. Just gets a bit spendy when you need 150 of them or so.
McMaster Carr Fastenal Granger
Dean Lewis & Associates in Portland Ore, they are a supply house for Huck Guns, huck gun parts & blind hucks, huck rivets, huck bolts and collars, I didn't screw around with other supply companies.
I had done some checking attaching the two, 3M makes a nonconductive tape, its like electricall tape but more sticky. one that's like hd electrical tape is 3M 51 scotchwrap, the other is Heskins H-3453 reseller is megadepot.com sells the narrow rolls, amazon sells rolls 4x60 feet.. An aluminum body builder in the area also uses Scotch 375 polypropelene packing tape between steel brackets and aluminum components.
Seems to me if the cab is 40 years old it must have been in very good shape for the first 20 years. Why bother to try and improve on the original.
Thanks for the suggestions. I still have some work to do before I am ready to begin reassembly so I have some time to get them ordered up if not in stock.