The long steel line to the bucket curl that goes the whole length of the boom on my CAT 307 is leaking again. We silver soldered it once about 4 years ago. I smacked it on a tree. There is a thread here about it but I don't know how to link to it. Can I replace it with hose ? Any real good reasons not to ? I would sleeve it in plastic pipe. Was thinking I could leave the line there and attach the hose to it.
I don't know, just speculating: Hose has more flex, thus on a long run may give some inconsistency on the controls vs. metal tubing. Metal line is likely a lot cheaper than an equivalent length hose.
Have you ever priced steel lines from Cat? I'd wager a guess hose is at least 4 to 5 times cheaper than steel hydraulic tubing. Hose may work but sometimes steel is a way better option.
$592 for the 1048909 tube assy. Myself, I'd get weld on socket ends, and cut the tube, weld on a male and female end, and reinstall. Or, cut at defect, and weld sleeve over.
Thanks. It is mangled right at the hold down at the bucket end. I'd have to go back a few inches to get round pipe. I'll look into a sleeve but I'm not a good welder. I might be able to silver solder an end or sleeve on but with just a new end the hose would be too short and need replacing again. I'll bet shipping a new pipe would be almost as much as the pipe because of the bend and length.
$679 for that part ( Thanks for the number ! ) in the next state over. Would be real helpful if I could find specification like ID and OD for the pipe. I found some "bite" style fittings that are very reasonable, available and good to over 5800 PSI. ( 40 MPa ) I tried to find info on the part on the internet and got that price but can't find any dimensions. The machine is an hour away and I need to get a bunch of paint off the line to get a good measurement. And I'm not cutting the line untill I have a solution. It's at the 'bad leak' stage so kind of useable as opposed to flood stage= buy all new oil. I have some ends I got when I had this problem before but they don't look like the right size and have less than 1/4 inch that would contact the pipe.
It's called seamless tubing and you measure the OD if you are going to order a piece. If you get it clean, it arc welds real well but it takes some skill. I used to find a supplier for the tube and make my own. It bends real easy. I used to leverage it over an old sledge hammer handle. Anyone that supplies fittings will also have access to tube clamps so if you do shorten the exiting tube you can add a clamp to support the new end. They do make compression fittings that will work pretty well. Also keep in mind the existing clamps are for tubing and not hose. You might have to zip tie the hoses to the old clamps to hold it in place.
Ya, I just got a long hose and spiral wrap and zip tied it on. When the machine is home this winter, I'll try harder to fix the steel line. Thanks for the info about measuring the tube. I've had a hard time guessing which compression fittings would fit but if I could get a sleeve and cut out the mangled piece, that would solve all the problems.
hose has alot more resistance than steel tubing, you may loose some flow if not sized correctly...I would replace the steel line with steel, as the factory felt it was better that way...
Have you thought about getting the tubing and ends, pre bend and cut to fit properly, and throw the whole thing in your truck and down to a blacksmith for welding? Hell, maybe if you take it to him he'll do the whole repair.
This winter, when the machine is home, I'll take the steel line off, locate a sleeve and take the whole mess to a good welder. The steel line is 15 feet long with almost a right angle bend in the middle. I'm going to need to put it in a trailer. It's working just like it did before with a hose. I need to be more careful about wacking trees whatever it has on there !!
My inner smart@ss wants to say, "only the bucket is for whacking stuff!" Lol If you replaced it with hose, isn't it off the machine already? I'm a fan of doing repairs on things that should be clean, but are hard to clean asap so you dont get any crud in it. Make sure you seal it up really well if it's going to sit for a few months.
If you can silver solder and it held fairly good you might try 'brazing'. It would be like silver soldering but with a hotter torch and is much stronger. The brazing rod selection would be dependent upon the type of metal being brazed.
If there's a race car fabricator in your area you could get a length of HFL and the fittings and they can bend it and weld it up. I'm guessing that would be a lot less than what it costs from the dealer. I've got a JD Squared bender and it works slick for that. Maybe go with a larger O.D. & wall thickness & the same I.D. as the original for some "tree resistance"?
The idea of finding a race car shop is a good one! If not able to find heavy wall tubing maybe take a section of the next size up and split it down the middle to make a guard over the exposed areas. Could even just use some radiator hose clamps to hold it in place.