Hello everyone! I recently purchased this tractor because I can't stay away from FB marketplace. I don't need it, but justified its purchase for some small trenching projects around the house. I need to invest some time and money into fixing it up a little. My question is does anyone, with experience with these tractors, know their value? Once my trenching projects are complete I plan to move her on down the road. Hopefully to someone who can get more use out of this old girl. I will attach a few photos and include a link of the first day home video. In the video I do a walk around. Thank you in advance for sharing your thoughts and opinions. I don't want to invest extra dollars into a money pit if she's only worth pennies. Cheers, First Day Home:
I am working on the tilt cylinders for the loader. I believe it is an MF34 loader. The cylinders leak off and I need to install new piston seals. Does anyone have experience removing the glands from these bad boys? My cylinders have two notches on the OD of the gland flange. I do not own a spanner wrench that will fit these and so far my home grown approach isn't working well. Thinking about making / ordering a custom tool to make this task easier. Please share your thoughts and ideas about the best tool for this task. Thanks,
I like to weld up a section of pipe that will just fit over the cylinder, then weld in two pieces of key stock where the notches are, then put a plate on the end with a cut out to fit over the rod end to weld your cheater pipe socket to. You can even put a ratchet strap around the base of the cylinder and back to your improvised socket to hold it from slipping even more. Not a lot of work for how much easier it makes it to put a lot of force on them. if you can't find the exact pipe size, slit it lengthwise, open it up or close it to fit, reweld it. If it's real close slit it in a spiral and adjust accordingly to fit, then reweld without adding or removing metal. If you try it without this improvised socket, or it still won't let loose, then peen the cylinder where the threads are. In axial lines about an inch apart circumferentially all the way around the threaded portion
Genius! I never thought of looking for a pipe or tube. I will have to start looking at my pile of steel stock. I was thinking about attaching square keys in the grooves, but unsure of an easy way to connect them. Thank you!
It's not an MF34 loader. MF34 loader was on the original MF30 and MF40 late 60's to mid 70's.
A tractor more than 10 years old, or more than 5000 LBS is not valuable on the open market. Those of us who buy them intending to upgrade can only justify if we get work from them. Parts and labor are just as expensive for a $5000. tractor as they are for a $50,000. tractor. That statement is almost true if the tractor is worth $1,000,000. Sometimes we see a Caterpillar D 11 with a factory rebuild advertised for more than $1,000,000.
Was it a box blade tractor? Tractor hydraulics are running the hoe? I had a 40 tlb. Robust and capable in many ways. 3 cyl. manual shuttle, away for reverse and toward you for forward The hoe was full sized and had a side to side carriage mount for the hoe. Strapped on the back was too much for it unless on flat ground. Had the round swing hydraulics 4 lever. It was awkward for occasional use. The outriggers dug in because of the mount and trailer loading and was just not balanced to drive around unless you had a bucket of dirt. If the shuttle trans works good you can maneuver that hoe around quick and be in control. beats a shovel. Industrial loader tractors generally sell for less than any other tractor type. I'm talking older used stuff.
I am not sure where to look on the loader for the correct model number? It isn't overly critical to me, but I was trying to use MF34 to help identify parts. I think it's pictured in the service manual I purchased. I was able to get the lift cylinder glands apart. It took a 4 foot cheater bar, my largest pipe wrench and Dad's help to break the gland loose. Talk about some serious torque! I priced seal kits from the dealer and decided it wasn't the answer. They came back at $163 or $170 per seal kit. So yes sir parts are ridiculously expensive! I opted to measure the piston and order my own standard hydraulic piston seal from a wholesaler. Much to my surprise it was a metric bore... Weird 65mmx52mmx6.3. We will see how things go; Dad's skeptical, but I'm optimistic. I mean a new seal that fits has to be better than old one missing a section right? The backhoe on the unit is a small 3 point hitch self contained unit. It has a pump that runs off the PTO. I plan on removing the backhoe attachment and selling the tractor loader separate. Depending on how well it works I may opt to make a mount or buy a 3point hitch plate for the bobcat quick attach plate. It could be a small handy unit to have for little digging projects. The tractor is cool! It is the first unit I have operated with this style of transmission. Once you get used to it things become kind of fluid in operation. Currently working on the brakes and the tilt cylinders for the loader bucket. Once those features are functioning correctly I think it will be a pretty legit loader. It is a heavy duty tractor. The three point has a hydraulic cylinder on the right hand link with an auxiliary valve mounted to the fender. It also has another auxiliary valve plumbed to the three point hitch for an accessory. Honestly if I had a big farm. I would keep this old girl. My limited space makes it not economical for me to keep. Plus I have to make room for new projects......Shhhh don't tell the wife! Haha
It probably had a hyd. top link at some point to use with a box blade. With the hyd. tilt cylinder is referred to as hyd. top and tilt. Lets you change tilt and angle of a box blade on the fly. I'm not sure if the loader has a specific model number other than 30E loader.
Nice it has PTO
I never thought about adjusting the angle on the fly. I'm old school and used to baby tractors. I have only used manual crank adjustments here. When I saw the cylinder I thought wow that's way more convenient than reaching back and cranking a handle. What you are saying makes perfect sense. Probably used to grade on and angle to generate slops / ditches maybe?
The tilt cylinder project....I made a special goofy spanner wrench out of big nuts (i couldn't find a pipe and these were a freebie). I had to add a tie bolt to the open end of the tool. It worked well, but wasn't up to the task at hand. The offset attachment point and 200 pounds hanging on the end of a 3/4" drive ratchet bent the homemade wrench a little, but didn't budge the gland. I was ready to give up and replace the whole cylinder with an aftermarket 'el cheapo' unit. Luckily Dad stopped over and our combined stubbornness managed to break it loose. It took both of us hanging on a four foot pipe off the end of my biggest pipe wrench. I measured the seal grooves Wednesday night and ordered new piston seals from a wholesaler. Much to my surprise they were 65mm bore cylinders. They arrived today and the rods are back in the tilt cylinders. I am exceptionally pleased! The new piston seals were not very expensive and definitely beat the tractor dealers $170 price tag. Now the bucket will hold a load! Going to give it a real test tomorrow grading and moving a load of dirt.
if you plan on working on many more hyd. cyl.s this is minimum size pipe wrench to start with
there was supposed to be a picture with the post missed it i guess
What was in the picture? I would like a 36" pipe wrench, but will probably hold out until I'm ready to spend some big money on a rigid brand. I can't remember the last cylinder I tore apart, but I'm betting it was a smaller cylinder. I added a bigger pipe wrench to my birthday wish list along with a spanner wrench for cylinders with end caps. Having the right tool for the job is half the battle. I have a ton of tools, but always seem to be missing a few specialty items.
you`ll also need a 10 foot pipe to
Nice! It's an interesting maneuver getting the wrench to clamp on the gland while sliding on the extension. I think next time I'll clip a piece of pvc pipe over the rod to protect it from the wrench sliding off. I only used shop towels on this job .
really need to be as gentle as possible on the shiny parts
Since we last discussed this project I wrapped up the assembly and tested the unit! She works! Winning!!! If anyone has interest in watching me fumble around with my limited tools check out the video (the link is shown below). My mom was kind enough to purchase me a gift for my birthday. It is a 24" Rigid pipe wrench! Now I have more power for big projects. Thanks mom!
I uploaded this weeks video on the Massey Ferguson MF30E industrial loader. In this video I bring stopping power back to this unit. When I purchased it the brakes were not functioning. Now it has the ability to go and stop! I used aftermarket master cylinders designed for vintage British cars to avoid the expensive tractor dealership pricing. Check out the video if you get bored and or are working on a similar tractor. Cheers,