Hello, I just bought a 196??? something MF50A backhoe and she runs and and works. I live in France and needed to get a little yard work done. She is tired and needs a rebuild. Leaking oil from the rear main, exhaust manifold and a few other places. The hyd fluid is a mix of blue and clear. I think there is water in it as it is kinda milky frothy looking. Drained out about a 1/2 liter and no evidence of water after sitting for a day. The engine cover is bent and damaged? Why? Because the front mounts only have 4 out of 6 bolts. One is broke off in the hole and the other side has the thread and front corner broken right off. Going to remove the broken one and drill out the broken mount to put a bold and plate on the back side to give it some ability to tighten up. The whole front end was moving up and down while using the loader causing the cover to move. After tightening up the 4 bold it moves much less. None of the gauges work and the ignition just starts it. No glow plug pre heating as it dont work. The brakes lock and need to reverse to unlock them, so I will need to look into that. Just a old start and she starts up pretty easy in the mid thirties. I plan on rebuilding the all the actuators on the backhoe as they all have a bit of leaking going on. Also going to flush the fluids and change all the filters. But overall its not bad for the 1700 euro I paid for her.
Hello again, I have broke my hyd drive shaft. The four front axle mounting bolts on the bottom (two hex and two allen) have come out. Only one upper was holding it together the other was loose. I got it to come back together with one of the allen bolts but the two were broken and another pulled the threads. Looks like I will be pulling the front axle and installing some helicoils. Good time to flush all the fluids too. Photos to come.
That's a little different from what I'd expect in the US. The loader bucket cylinders are above the arm, and the loader frame mounts higher on the front of the tractor. In any case, the overloading of the front axle seems to be the same on yours. Pain in the butt. Might as well take the front end apart and get everything to hold before it breaks worse. But then do you want to pull the engine and rebuild it at the same time? tough to know where to stop on something like this...
It looks like the rear of the bucket cylinders are mounted quite close to the same plane as the pivot point on the back of the loader arms. That along with the bucket linkage may keep the bucket on a pretty constant plane as it goes up and down. I don't recall having seen any before with the bucket cylinders under like that. It sure makes for some long tilt cylinders.
Well I took it apart to find that the pump cam shaft has been modified to be square as well as the drive shaft. The fan pulley adaptor is torn up as well.Going to order new parts and get it fixed the right way. The axle support has two large cracks that I am going to grind out and weld. Two bolt holes have broken but can still hold a bolt. Removed the broken bolts from the oil pan and block and have to install a helicoil in one.
Nice pics, every one of them. Looks like they got their moneys worth and then some out of the hydraulic drive shaft dampers, and the pump end of the driveshaft too. Are you ordering a new hydraulic pump along with the new shaft? Do you know what you're doing welding that crack up? I don't know what material it is... I think you'll be fine with the axle mounting if you can get most of the bolts to hold most of their original strength, that damage took years and years of heavy abuse to create. If you keep the bolts tight, don't massively overload the loader bucket, you'll be fine for a long time.
SHe is pretty worn out, but she still digs and rolls (with a little limp). Delmer I used a plain old 6013 3.2mm rod and it worked out OK. It is just a patch until I find another one to replace it. But it is better than nothing and may work for a long time. I am going to hold off on rebuilding the engine. She is burning oil and has a few leaks that need to be addressed, but I will keep her topped off and start planning the rebuild for the fall/winter months. I am also going to use the same hydraulic pump shaft and pump cam until then as well. It locks together pretty tight and I will end up doing it at the same time as the engine. I just hope it works until then. I am calling around to find the adaptor plate today. I hope I can find one at one of the tractor grave yards that the local dealer told me about. The last picture is the loader number, any idea of what year this thing is?
Well I got it back together and finished digging my driveway out. Now I have another problem. I was rolling down a small hill and could not stop as I have no brakes, so I hit the reverse and I stopped. THe reverse still worked at that point. I drained the fluid in the trans and diff then dumped in about 4 gallons of diesel to wash it out. lots of gunk and small metal shavings came out. I tried to go in reverse with no response with diesel in it. So after draining the diesel and putting the 27 liters of ATF, I tried it again and it worked. After stopping and trying to go back again it would not work engage. I shut it down and restarted, it worked again. Now its not working again and will not go in reverse. I tried to play with the accelerator/transmission linkage but nothing. Checked the fluid at the right side fill hole and its good. The dipstick under the right foot is barley reading. Now the sump cover has three drains in it but the cover seems to have been milled out so the three sections become one. I am also leaking like a siv from the inspection plate in front ot the sump cover. I fear I have damaged the reverse clutch when I reversed it going down the hill. It does go forward in all gears. Anyone have and idea? I think I will be splitting it sooner than I wanted to.
I don't think it's supposed to use ATF in the instant reverse transmission, ** Pematran more likely. A lot of it may be cast steel so should be welded with 7018 and a some preheat not 6013. That is a different machine than the N. Amercian MF50A that was sold in the late 60's to mid 70's. I think it is just an MF50 built in the UK. The serial plate seems to indicate just a straight MF50 as well that has that style of loader and bucket linkage. Not sure what the A under the serial number means but an MF50A would have a 9A serial number. Early models had a 4-203 engine and later models had 4-212 Perkins engine. MF50B's made in the UK went through several different models and were some of the most popular machines sold in Europe and used a similar style bucket linkage as well.
Welder Dave. Thanks for the info. I was not sure what to weld it with so I just did what I could until I find a replacement. As for the model I think you may be right as it is different than any of the pubs I have been finding. The MF50B pub has universal tractor transmission oil (UTTO) for the instant reverse trans and differential. But ATF for the torque converter. The guys at my local ** dealer said that ATF will work. But they are farm equipment. So do you think that the reverse will not engage because of the fluid or because I jammed it into reverse at about 4-5 m/ph? Forward works even is the wheels are up they turn forward when pushing in the reverse linkage.
Finding parts will likely be hard. I don't know a whole lot about the instant reverse trans except it was made by Funk. Slamming it into reverse at 4-5 mph certainly wouldn't do it any good. It would be best to try and find a service manual for it.
Yes its hard to find parts. There is a guy not far from me that has a shop with a collection of tractors. He has 4 of them, but will not let the parts go to easy. Only if you need it kinda thing and even then I am not to sure, I only went there once and talked with him. I have two or three pubs with some troubleshooting procedures but not to helpful. Most solutions involve splitting the tractor. I am going to dig into them today and print off the pages involving the repairs. I am leaking a lot of transmission fluid while running from the inspection plate. I was wondering if the pump lines can be tightened from there? Anyway if I split it I can overhaul the engine and rebuild the rotory and rear actuators at the same time.
I don't have a clue here. You wouldn't think that it would work one time and not the next if you had stripped something out, or blew a seal when you reversed it? Was that 1st low or what gear? I know I've done that several times accidentally, or slammed it when the foot pedal linkage hung up and the engine sped up before the trans shifted. I don't think the diesel or ATF will make too much difference, but it could have possibly flushed some junk up where it's causing trouble now? I'd make absolutely sure the direction control shaft is moving right when you press the forward and reverse pedals, that's easy enough to see. Other than that, time to figure out the troubleshooting procedure and do some pressure tests I suppose.