I am looking for parts for an 80s model 75C Michigan/Clark loader. Did Volvo buy them out? Can I get part through Volvo? Thanks.
Your VOLVO dealer can provide parts and service support.
hello!!! We are rebuilding such machines many many years now!!!! Feel free to ask for any info or part you may need!!! I hope to be able to help you!!!
I worked for Clark as a Service rep for a number of years and have some of the Service information.
I am looking for a seat, seat belt assembly, and the seat tether. The dealer still has not got back with me on any of these parts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I do have such used seats but I do not think it is worth it to send you this from Greece due to huge transportation costs. I believe though that you can find nice new seats with seat belts locally. I was in Bauma last month and I saw more than 10 factories making seats starting form 150-200 Euro....
i have a clark 85 a 3 i belive i think its a late 50s model the 4-53 runs like a top but i think i have a torqe converter problem or charge pump i can start it and if the shaft spins i can move the bucket then it stop and some time i go to move the bucket and the shaft stops spining.. would it do this if the torqe converter was bad.. also which pump is the charge drive pump and how do i check can i buy a book for this old beast.. please help thanks for your time
Need a little more info. Is this an articulated machine or straight frame with a rear steering axle 85 A is articulated and 85 series III or series II are straight frame. In any case they should have a C270 series convertor. The charge pump is the one that pulls oil out of the transmission sump and feeds directly to the valve on the side or top of the convertor case, that would be the clutch pressure regulating valve, it will have a small hose going to the transmission control valve from the regulating valve. The pumps are direct drive through the convertor housing. The out put shaft to the transmission is driven by the convertor members so the shaft usually will turn if the transmission is in neutral or in gear when the wheels are moving, if the transmission is in gear and the machine is not moving, the shaft will stop unless you have a slipping clutch.
thank u for ur help its a 85 series III do u think the regulating valve could be sticking or bad since it works for a min or could there be to much oil in there if any one has a book on this thing or know where i can get one please let me know asap thanks
so today i took the vavle off the side and cleaned it up it seemed stuck.. still not working so i took the drive pump off it seemed a lil tight to spin.. when i first start it up i can rasie the bucket a lil if i rev it up.. then the shaft stops and i lose every thing..
As I said, the hydraulic pumps are direct drive through the convertor case and the shaft is driven through the convertor members, so they are not related. The only common item to both, is the convertor drive gear that couples to the flywheel. they are prone to strip. Some of the early ones were metal, but they were replaced with a fiber gear to lower the noise level. If the drive gear is stripped sometimes it will drag enough to turn the pumps without a load, but soon as you try to lift the boom or steer the gear slips and the pumps quit working and the convertor members also stop turning so the shaft will stop. My money is on the convertor drive gear. If you replace 4 of the mounting bolts that hold the convertor to the bell housing with longer bolts, 3 or 4 inches. then unhook the drive shaft, and take out the rest of the bolts you should be able to slide the convertor back enough to see if the drive gear is stripped. you should have some support for the convertor so all the weight isn't on the 4 long bolts for safety sake.
My total respect to the knowledge of oldseabee!!!! I totally agree. When you miss both transmission and hydraulics, the steering is working or is it dead too? If it goes dead, then 100% is the fiber ring gear. Also, I will try to search my old books to see if I can get one for 85III to copy for you.
if its the drive gear there should be fiber gear teeth you can fish out the bottom of the flywheel housing pulled a hundred converters on clarks to change that gear
i will look in the morning to see if i can fish those teeth out.. its my bosses machine and he wont let me take the houseing off.... mourafetis yes i lost every thing steering bucket and trany.. where is that fiber disc it is makeing a grinding nosie in the converter houseing.. where is that fiber disc at..thanxs for all ur help
If I remember correctly the fiber gear has internal teeth and bolts to the flywheel and there is a steel gear on front of the convertor with external teeth, I may have it backwards but, when you mount the convertor to the bell housing, the two gears mesh together and that is what drives the convertor. You have to be carefull when mounting the convertor that the gears are meshing, if they are the convertor will go right up to the bell housing. If you have to force the convertor up to the bell housing you will be taking all the end play out of the convertor and damaging the fiber gear, then you get to rebuild the convertor.
Your memory is perfect oldseabee. It is exactly as you remember. Also a very important thing is the bushing in the middle. There is a male bushing on the converter front cover, that fits on a female bushing in the middle of the flywheel. These to do not spin on each other, but they are used in order to support the weight of the converter inner parts and hold everything centered. Most of the times both of them are damaged. The tolerance between them must be 0,15 - 0,20 mm. If these are damaged and the tolerance is higher the fiber gear will brake again in a couple of months. In case you cannot find genuine ones (they are easy to find) that are very hard on the surface, you have to manufacture and harden the bushing as much as you can!!
I have a Clark Michigan 75C ID# 494A 257CB Am having brake seal problems and assumed I could use automotive type brake fluid in the brake system. Then I was told that I should use aviation hydraulic fluid MIL PRF 5606. This fluid deteriorates the master cylinder seals in few days. What is the proper brake fluid for this loader? Do you know where I could obtain an owner's manual or a service manual for this loader? Thanks!
Your 75C should use dot 3 brake fluid. If you have put in hydraulic fluid, not only will it eat the seals in the master cylinder it will also attack the seals in the calipers and the compensators. You will need to flush the whole system and refill with brake fluid. May be too late and the caliper seals are damaged, that will require caliper resealing.
Thanks! Brake fluid is what I thought should be used, but an expert told me to use the hydraulic fluid. Have drained the system & will see how much damage I have.
Definition of an expert: EX=has been, Spurt=drip under pressure.
Hey oldseabee you seem to be the guy that knows about these 75C loaders. What's the correct way to check the tranny fluid level? Volvo says to turn off, lower boom and fluid should be halfway up sight. That's how I check Hydraulic fluid but seems weird for trans. Don't know about these loaders, just bought it. It's an 1982 if that matters. Thanks
Trans fluid is checked with engine running trans in neutral. Preferably with hot oil, cold oil will show a lower level. If the oil is cold and you fill it to the full mark, when it gets hot it may be overfull and get into the spinning gears which will cause foaming. With cold oil just make sure it is over the add mark then check it again when it is warmed up.
That makes more sense to me. That's the way I checked my Deere too. Thanks
Oldseabee.. you seem knowledgeable about flywheel rings/parts for loaders. We have a Dresser Loader with a broken fiber gear (from what I can tell) and I can't figure out how to get it replaced. Any way you can point me in the right direction?
Hello!! Your ring gear is an 8 hole one, but this is very rare to find. You can use the 16 hole one (3/8'' bolts) and you can find under part number 233089. We do have it in stock but I think you will not have a problem to locate it in the US. Best Regards
Have seen one 75c strip 3 fibre couplings in 3 months turned out to be too much end float in the crankshaft, which allowed the everything to move back and forward and eventually grind the teeth off, took awhile to find the cause.
Most of the times, the middle bushing, item 52 in the above pictures is worn and causes the failure. The PN for this is 222006 and the clarance between this and the female slot in the flywheel must not exceed 0.1mm as shown in the attached file.