just picked up an L70 a few days ago and im having odd issues. first off neutral feels like park? ive never ran a volvo before but this seems odd, anywho i only had 2nd and 4th gear. 1st and 3rd it will shift into (clunk and move barely) but even with it in gear i can try and move it with the bucket and it WILL NOT BUDGE if i roll from 2nd to 3rd while moving at full throttle im convinced it would toss you through the windshield. we spent a full day working on it today and seem to have ran out of ideas heres what we have done: taken apart/cleaned shift switch cleaned pickup/strainer in pan repaired frayed wiring on solenoids moved/swapped every solenoid and every relay completely unhooked braking electronics removed inspected and cleaned valve body and cleaned every solenoid. visually inspected gearbox. WHAT AM I POSSIBLY MISSING??? do these not have a neutral? why does it seem to be in park when it should be in gear or neutral? i can park it on a hill in neutral if its running it WILL NOT ROLL kill the machine and it starts to roll. thanks in advance
Hello On my L90B we and a friends L90C we had similar issues and it was actually the brakes locked up. The plunger under the foot pedal was frozen in the down postion.
Is the ECU controlling the shifting or is it in manual bypass? Do you have hydraulic parking brake or cable and lever? Are you absolutely sure you don't have unwanted power going to 2nd and 4th?
After inspecting the brake pedal as advised above, check your wiring again. On machines that old, the insulation will just flake off. You may have shorts.
Mine seems to roll easily in 2 & 4 forward and reverse though just doesn't in 1st 3rd or neutral. Definitely not ruling it out though I may crack the bleeders and see if that effects it
Correct me if I'm wrong. On the solenoids none should have power in neutral and when in gear only the one that's in gear should have power correct? There's a little light in the fusebox I'm guessing on a TCM or ECM. It lights up good in 2/4 but in 1/3 it flickers.
I would have to check my book when I get home but I think that light is for the purpose of diag so you may be on to something.
Some light reading
They might be our of order. Good luck. BTW you have multiple solenoids energized for specific gear ranges. If you remove the range valve solenoid cover, look inside. It says which gears are energized in which gear selection.
Looks like the correct order and the correct power to all but white (4th gear solenoid 5) and it only has 6V. I'm unsure how to make sure it's in manual or auto shift
Should have specified 6V coming out of the module here under the dash. And at the solenoid
So, I figured out how to.make it manual vs auto. Manual doesn't seem to work at all, but after verifying correct voltage at all solenoids in all gears. And manually supplying voltage to them I've decided it has to be braking related. Now what I can't figure out is why the brakes are disengaged only in 2nd. In any other gear or neutral I can not move it with the bucket. But in 2 at idle I can move it around with the bucket so is there anything that would electronically engage the brakes? Thanks so much you guys have at least helped me rule out a few more things!
You verified power for each gear, did you make sure only the correct solenoids are getting power for the appropriate gear?
Cross bleeds can essentially put you in 2 ranges or direction at the same time. The strongest clutch pack with highest torque multiplication wins. The converter keeps you from stalling
Yes that's exactly what we did, every gear was getting the power that it's supposed to and no extras. 4th was the only one incorrect and it was being supplied the power 2nd should have had, but I'm assuming that is because it is in auto and that's the gear it should be in
What solenoids should be energized according to the cover?
4F is supplying power to S1 and S3 (green & yellow) but I'm assuming that's because it's in auto. When moving in 4F if you get up to speed it will try to shift and slow way down then take back off again so I'm sure it's trying to hit 3F but 3 is braking for some reason I was going to post a pic of the cover but can't get it to upload. 4F is supposed to be s1 and S5
So, if you put her in manual, 1st gear , fwd, you should have power at S1,S3 & S4 , no power to any other solenoid. You don't have to fight to measure at the solenoid buttons, you can measure right there at the trans connector. Did you follow the troubleshooting for the LED? It will help narrow your search.
In manual mode 1st S1 is the only one with power.
In auto the lights seem to be doing what they're supposed to best I can tell. It's just like the brakes electronically engage. In 2/4 I can roll it in 1, 3, (F or R) or neutral it's like the brakes are locked solid. I can floor it in 3 it will move a bit but the brakes make noise. But then like I said in 2nd I can roll it and brakes are definitely not engaged.
That's what I'm trying to explain. The cover tells the truth. If you were to look at the schematic in bypass, it would be very clear.
Look at first fwd, and reverse. The only difference is S2, which brings counter-rotation into the mix. The range is the same. Second fwd and rev, s2 is the difference. Just like 1 to 2, you lose a solenoid to change the range.
I'm sorry I'm terrible with wiring schematics I'm trying to decode it here. Tell me if I'm putting it in manual bypass correctly here. All I'm doing is taking the 2 plugs off of this big APS module thing then plugging them in to the plugs right beside it. Do I have to move any other plugs?
Follow closely
Got it! I wasn't hooking up that relay, my bad. Ok I will run the tests again now with the relay hooked up and see where I'm at.
Ok just tested power at all of the solenoids with it on manual bypass Every single one of them were 100% correct.
It's like the brakes are on in every gear but F2 and R2.
Now, you're going to need gauges. You're going to have to measure pressure. What type of parking brake do you have. Hydraulic or cable and lever?
Should be cable and lever. Service brakes have nothing to do with trans shifting.
It's a cable parking brake and it's non functional
I just can't figure out why it will roll in second and not in neutral or 1,3,4 if I put it in any other gear it jerks hard the driveshafts spin then lock up like you're holding the brake. I had it working here in first after going back and forth a bunch went probably 10 feet and it stopped. 3rd I can get it to move if I hold it wide open but it feels like brakes are holding it back
I can get it on the road in 2nd and shift to 3rd and it will damn near chuck you out of the cab. Like the brakes lock up solid. Could it be something with the torque converter or some shaft inside trans? Opened the bleeders and they're not getting pressure unless the pedals pressed
Information on that machine is hard to come by. I will see if i can find pressure test procedure. We could have a failed gasket between the valve body and trans body. If your electrically good, that only leaves pressure problems.
I've had the valve body off and apart 3 times. Gasket and everything inside looked good to me. Honestly unless somebody comes up with a miracle cure for this machine on here I've thrown in the towel. I put a hose clamp on the shifter to fix it in 2nd and I'm just gonna use it with only one gear. 2 of us have spent almost 24 hours each on this machine in the last 2 days if I invest much more time into it it simply won't be worth it. Do you know if these actually have a park instead of neutral? It simply must be stuck in park it's the strangest thing. We opened up the brake bleeders and drove around in 2nd trying to shift to first or 3rd same thing everytime just comes to an instant stop in 1st and a pretty fast stop in 3rd
I don't know on my first machine but the one I recently purchased it will free roll with the machine in neutral and the brakes off. I agree with funwithfuel that pressures are needed to be checked. Will it free roll with the bucket off the ground and the machine shut off ? When you say the parking brake is inop if what form ?
I'm sure the parking brake is just wore out and out of adjustment. I can have it running in any gear but 2 and it won't roll. Shut it off and it will roll as soon as it dies.
That's an indicator that incorrect solenoids are energized at the same time. There has to be a cross-bleed from one solenoid to another.
I'll see if I can order that gasket and pull the valve body again
I'd check that wiring again, with the solenoid valve off, you could air test each of the clutch packs to make sure you're not leaking