Hi, New guy here. I just have taken delivery of a late 80's MRX 35. From the swivel upwards, we have a great operational machine. I promptly broke a track and was lucky enough to find the odd size replacement from Viqan. Where I need help is the Idler wheel assembly. This part of the machine was not maintained and it is seized inside the frame rail. I have cleaned it as good as I can and have it soaking in PB Blaster (first picture). I could not pull it with the bucket or compress it with an 8 ton bottle jack against the blade. I have searched the internet for salvage MRX 35s and found nothing. Any suggestions out there? Looks like I will have to cut into the frame rail side open and try to pound it out but even that is not a guarantee.
Welcome to HEF 2112. :drinkup Unfortunately, that machine is about as gray market as you'll find in N America, I'm not aware of a direct source of parts for those machines, doesn't mean there's not one out there though. It's a long shot as they deal with Morooka and Yanmar, but you could try Dominion Equipment Parts. > http://depparts.com/ You might have to source it from Japan. I have a contact with Maxis Corporation, don't have email addy here at home though. I checked there website, didn't show an idler for an MXR35, doesn't mean they don't have or can possibly source one. Best of luck.
Hey Willie, Yeah, I have come to realize just what you mention about the Gray Market problem. Do you know if they were imported to Canada or Mexico? I would assume getting anything from Japan would be expensive and shipping downright ugly. Any truth that CAT minis are made by Mitsubishi (hoping for parts interchangeability)? I found a post or two about this being the sister to a 303.5?? How would you get everything apart without destroying too much? If I can get it apart without wrecking the tensioner, That would be a huge head start. Thanks for the reply.
True, Cat and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries worked out a partnership years ago that still exists today. However, that particular machine is far removed from the Cat relationship. It may well be that idler is used in some other Cat machine, but the problem you would have is a Cat dealer would have no way of knowing or finding out unless you had the Mitsu part number for the idler. Aside from that, you'd have to get lucky and have someone say "yeah, I purchased an idler for a 303.5 and it fit right in my MXR35". As for shipping from Japan, you'd be surprised how inexpensive it can be at times. The drawback is it takes time. Most everything comes over on container ship, which takes some time. If you want it quicker, then you'd have to opt for the much more expensive air freight. Concerning pulling the idler, I haven't pulled an idler or track adjuster from one of those, but on most machines that idler simply slides out, sometimes brings the track adjuster with it. If it doesn't, there's something preventing it from doing so. No way I can even guess what's causing the problem.
Pressurize the tensioner... I mean pressure! and beat it with a sledge hammer. It will come
Might well work, but I think it would be prudent to add "do not stand in front of the idler when doing this".
Thanks again guys, How much pressure are we talking about? What is the best way to achieve that thru the Zerk Fitting? Where would you pound with the sledge? About All I can access is the wheel which I hope to not destroy. The Seller suggested plasma cutting a window in the side of the frame rail to get to the tensioner (and I presume, pound on it).
Try a mix of ATF & Acetone 50/50 let it set for few days and then use air hammer, another suggestion is to try drilling with small bit into that rust to get better penetration.It takes time for those chems to break down that build up . What size tracks does that MRX 35 take?
ATF and Acetone? I would have not thought of that. That combo works on rust? I love learning new things. Here a portion of the schematic that shows the assembly exploded. I believe Parts # 26 and #33 are seized against the frame rail. The wheel is in excellent condition and rotates freely.
Oh The track size is 320mm wide, 43 teeth, 100 pitch I even thought of trying to get a new track on by pulling the drive sprocket and upper guides (#40 and #45 in schematic) and try to slip it on over the drive hub. I doubt I could do it factoring in a new and very heavy track tho. Still would lack adjustability doing that way but since this is just for personal use, I may not see the effect of an improper tensioned belt for many years. (I know I could not get it on too tight)
I've had good luck with the ATF/Acetone mix on rust, Freeing valves, etc , not pretty but works. Here is some old info I picked up .None of them are fast. PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 From another thread
Thanks Jack. I will start soaking tomorrow.
Soaked it all weekend with the Acetone/ATF combo. Tried pulling it out with a Deere 35D I rented for a project. No movement at all, I guess it is the Plasma cutter and impact hammer next.
OK - my 5c worth. Before I started cutting big holes I would go with the idea of drilling small holes into the expanded rust zone between plates - even an angle grinder if you can get the disc close enough without other damage. This should give access to your fluids for rust degeneration. I would be patient - it is a new toy and many times I have kicked myself for not being patient with such problems. Once had a motorcycle with seized flywheel over points assembly which had to be replaced. Puller was distorting flywheel but would not budge - any more and I would have bent/cracked the flywheel. Solution that worked - heat - let cool - heat - let cool - heat - let cool BUT also had the tension on the puller all the time. Tensioned the puller a little more as it allowed with a day or so it took. Was talking to the owner when he came to pick it up and see what the issue was when 'bang' the thing popped off and the rest was easy play after that. Nothing seized under just something never taken off and put on really tight and flush. I would try heating with gas before I started cutting holes that I have to repair later. Take some time - do a little planning of attack and while some tension is doing it's job with penetration and heat/cold - sleep on it. That is probably more than five cents worth but whatever works - Regards, MX45.
Oh and try pushing as well to dislodge the other way to see any movement at all - it could also be possibly held by something behind in the whole assembly not related to the rust - there are a lot of components there hidden yet.
I wondered if the deeper components might be part of the issue, unfortunately, the are accessed thru the immovable idler assembly.
Its going to take time to break down that rust, the way its now rusted you are pulling the whole machine- some type of vibration would help. What does the other side look like? You may want to talk to some of the old timers down at the docks where they deal with this type of problems daily.
Update: After soaking it for 2 weeks, heating, cooling pulling pushing, I gave up and cut an access hole. I could not budge it with a sledge hammer so I rented a 45 lb impact hammer. Took an hour, but I got them out. Pictures don't stay in order of loading, one shows the backing plate after the rust scale and dirt was removed. .
The Acetone/ATF mix was helpful, but it totally mauled the seals on the wheel bearings (They turn still). I need to replace those and have the spring and piston assembly shot peened and new seals placed. I was amazed how heavy the spring rate is on these. I hope I can compress them enough when I am ready to put the new tracks on. The Guy (dealer of sorts) who sold me this machine told me the Kubota KH30SR is the same machine. Those are Gray market too. I wonder if a Kubota dealer can get me the seals I need. I need a machine shop to press the wheels apart and clean up the piston/spring/cup assembly. I was also amazed that there was no rubber boot or something to keep debris from getting behind the cup and into the springs. There was a ton of debris in there. No wonder I could not compress it. Well, those springs did not help. The red grease is Kendall axle grease for boat trailers seeing salt water. Good stuff.
Those small minis, they're usually sold under three or four different names, probably none of which actually built them, pretty standard Japanese business in the equipment world. I'm guessing the tensioner seals will be pretty standard metric cylinder seals. Can't say about the idler shaft seals, the picture doesn't look like the usual "floating seal" but they may be, or could be just O-rings. If you can't find them easily close by, send me pictures and as close as you can get on dimensions, I'll try to help.
Yep, I was told This mini and the Hanix S&B20, Or Kubota KH30SR are the same (all made by Mitsubishi I am told). I think all Gray Market tho. I will try PAPE' in Tacoma tomorrow and see what they say. Appreciate the offer of help. If necessary, I can take Hi-Res pics.
The Adjusters were polished and cleaned and new seals placed. The wheels will be a wintertime project as now I would want to wrap a few projects up. Tracks are on and it moves nicely. Thanks for all the suggestions.
This is off topic but welcome my fellow RUSH fan ! That is still my favorite record. :notworthy
Yep, soundtrack to my life; http://www.rush.com/albums/
2112.....from your posts above you have some good schematics for your MXR35. Are these available somewhere that I can purchase? I'm looking replacement parts for my MXR35 and it would be great to have the part #. I need the "swivel-joint" stud that holds the lever to the frame. Will try to post photo but I am new at this. Thanks for any response! (RUSH fan here also!)
Don't know if these 2 photos will show properly but here goes!
The Guy I bought the machine from in Oklahoma e-mailed those to me. It was like pulling teeth to get those, unfortunately that is all I had. Machine has run great for a couple years now. A helpful caterpillar (since they sell Mitsubishi) dealer might be able to help you. Emphasis on helpful. These Grey Market machines are brutal finding parts for. Is there a boneyard out there maybe??
Thanks 2112.........I have been searching for source of parts and/or schematics for over a year. Machine works great until couple of weeks ago when this stud broke. I will take it to a good expert welder that I know.....see if he can weld bolt to it. Small size is the issue. :idea.......Weld a LARGER bolt to it & just enlarge the hole in the frame! Problem solved! Thanks again for your reply!