I just don't get it. It can be any sort of machined part or anyother thing that you do not want rusted. Yet so many ads everywhere showing transmissions, engines, any sort of machine tool or gear sets covered in rust. In other words some of it pretty much scrap. I being the type of machine person I am always make sure there is something to prevent rusting especially if it is some critical part. How come such common sense is so lacking? I saw a lathe for $15K on FB market the other day that looks like the tarp was not doing much and everything just covered in rust, sitting out doors of course, gosh why didn't they spray any kind of oil on that thing? And then think its still worth that kind of $, I really just can't under stand it.
I don't know if its a lack of common sense or if they just don't care? I probably care to much and will waste time and effort trying to look after or fix something that really isn't worth the effort. I've really tried to not care about how some people look after their own gear, if they want to wreck it and it doesn't effect me, then even though I think it's stupid to do so, it's their stuff.
I think a lot of it is people have to much stuff. Its fun to buy stuff but not fun to take care of it. I have a lot of stuff and most of you know i am getting rid of some of it. I sold some stuff to a guy 2 weeks ago he was back yesterday and i think he is coming back today i hope to get a couple things. Its hard to think there is only so many things i can get done and i need to spend time and money on what i already have keeping it in shape.
Common sense is an uncommon virtue
every day Doug, Less is More. You are doing good to move these things on.
Government auctions, it's all stored outside for years apparently before they put it up for sale. Joe H
Apparently, peddling junk machining equipment has become a widespread scam. There are countless ads on Marketplace trying to sell unusable machine tools for top dollar. Stuff that is covered in rust, missing parts, missing drive motors, ways completely worn out so much so that you can visibly tell by looking at the photos. Most of what I see is literally scrap. I guess they just wait form someone who doesn’t know any better to come along and buy it.
Don’t low ball me! I know what I got.
I haven't tried to scam anyone but i dont think that stuff sells all that good. They would like to sell it and are trying but the markets not that great and the guy that needs it knows he needs to be careful hopefully . I am not selling any machine tools or trying scam anyone but from what i have seen i wonder if there is a market for some really good or even brand new stuff. My guy came buy yesterday and bought several things . Every time i sell some stuff it opens my eyes more to what can be sold and be useful and what is scrap iron . Thankfully most of the stuff i have is made of steel and can be sold as scrap.
I saw 2 large band saws on marketplace this afternoon. Both tipped on their sides in the dirt(and rain) that they wanted $800 each. Scrap value maybe?
From machine tools, tools, equipment, cars & trucks. If listed on market place in most cases there's a pile of garbage inside or laying in the weather rotting, asking crazy prices for crazy junk. But there is the scrolling roller to bypass too, look at it as entertainment while waiting for dinner to cook.
I think it's on Iron Planet but there is a Cat 330 excavator listed as inoperable. I have never seen such an abused machine as this one. The current bid was only $4500. Back engine cover and doors are all smashed and there are literally chunks out of the counterweight. The pins look to have about a 1/4" slop. Inside the cab is no better with gauges and stuff missing or broken and a totally destroyed seat. I can't understand how anybody could abuse a machine worth 100's of thousands of dollars like that. If it's employee's they should have been fired the first day. If it's the owner they must have way more money than brains. Some people should just stay away from equipment.
Occasionally I find something on marketplace that is worthwhile, the key is to go buy it immediately without delay or somebody else will. I think I need to put my kids on the computer with parameters of things I want so they can look every day when I am too busy.
I have a drill press with a rusty column but a lot of the rust was there when I bought it. I've sprayed it with WD40 but that only lasts so long. I didn't have a heated shop to keep in it so I think the rust is from condensation. Sometime when I get a chance I should rub it down with steel wool, a scotchbrite pad or a fine foam sanding block. I know on bare steel aftermarket exhausts for 2 stroke dirt bikes WD40 and steel wool clean them up really nice.
There are many oils and such that can be used, I worked in one machine shop and it was mandatory to use WD-40 on all fixtures and tables and such, it did a good job, but not for outdoors storage. There are some cosmoline like sprays that can be used as well as cable/wire rope or even motor cycle chain lubes, or the thick gooey 5th wheel lube, I've never seen one of them too rusty if lubed correctly. Even new non detergent motor oil is okay. Some machines spec turbine oil for lubrication. Normal old way oil is thick too.
My son introduced me to ACF-50 two years ago. It’s the best anti-corrosion goop I’ve ever used. It’s pricy. Just use it on important things like bikes and Cezznas. Popular with the aviation crowd. Lear Chemical - ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Lubricant, 32oz Lear Chemical - Research Anti-Corrosion Lubricant Compound, 32 oz Bottle | ACF-50-10032 ACF-50 (Anti-Corrosion Formula) is, as the name suggests, a state of the art, anti-corrosion lubricant compound, specifically designed for the Aerospace Industry. It is an ultra Thin Fluid Compound (TFFC)... www.pilotshq.com
Its a deal but a person needs to think am i going to keep it and use it ? Do I have the time that is needed to keep it in good shape? Luckily i have space to keep stuff inside that needs to be stored inside and i dont have a crazy amount of machine tools . I have a lot of hand tools some are in a van trailer and the rest are in the shop. I hope to get all my hand tools in the shop sort them out and sell what i have several of.
LPS 3 is another high quality protective spray. It seems most of the protective sprays are a wax dissolved in a volatile carrier.
Put'em away greasy--performs two tasks at once, helps preserve and in most cases other people from using, perfectly aligned tools in a t-box sparkling is for the retired ocd crowd. I'm retired but don't want all the tools clean, oil and some grease is normal on the job anti rust compound that doesn't have a pie r square formula that costs extra bucks when 15x40 and some nlg mixed in does it.
Friend of mine has an old industrial table saw. It came out of a school. Bunch of us were in his shop shooting the sit and having a beer when one of the guys did the unthinkable and set his beer on the saw. That stain is still on that saw.
My cast iron tables will get a quick sanding when they go in the new house basement. The garage is cold and there is always a little rust to contend with there. The new house basement will be heaven for wood dicings.
My buddy always had a tank in back of his road truck with fuel in it and a basket that fit in it all his wrenches and sockets he used every day went in there not in drawers they never rusted but I sure hated using his tools
Cold doesn't always mean rust, its the moisture. It can cost a buch to keep a decent size shop heated all winter.
The Cashman Equipment field guys I worked around in NV, used expanded metal or mesh tote trays. One with wrenches, one for sockets. The snow, rain, hydraulic oil, bug dust could drain out. All done, wash them off with the solvent sprayer or dip them in the solvent tank.
I knew a guy that kept spare cartridges for Vickers vane pumps in a 5 gal. bucket full of diesel. He had P&H excavators with three pumps if I recall.
Having built that garage about 25 years ago. I'm pretty sure what goes on in there. The new house has a conditioned basement and like I said it's going to be tool heaven down there. It'll always be warm and dry.
Definitely a lack of common sense..... Man pinned by tree 'miraculously' freed in Lawrence County A man was "miraculously" freed after being pinned by a large tree in a machine in Lawrence County, Tennessee. fox17.com
I built an insulated room in my shop for my lathe, table saw, bandsaw and all the measuring tools. That keeps most of the rust at bay.... The rust occurs when the temperature warms up and the tools are still cold due to condensation. I also spray WD40 or LPS3 and wipe it around.
How did he do that, push the tree with the lift arms fully raised and the bucket caught on the tree pulling the machine with it? He's damn lucky!
I've started using Fluid Film (heard about it here on the forum) as an anti corrosion inhibitor. I picked up a cheap 20 oz HVLP spray gun from HF for about $10 on sale. Works great to spray on a light coating on the lathe, bridgeport, buggy, tools, etc. This time of the year, when we get a humid warm front pass through, I have to keep the shop doors closed otherwise the machine tools will sweat and rust. The Fluid Film never seems to harden or get difficult to remove. I'm thankful that someone else had posted up about that stuff. I think it's a lot better than WD-40. The air sprayer works well for adding a light coating.
I buy it 5 gal at a time off of Amazon
It's good stuff. Keeps the bare sheet metal shiny inside my combine all year long and then comes right off when I harvest.
Good stuff. Fluid Film smell makes my dogs go crazy. Obviously, it’s the lanolin.
I just Fluid Filmed the Jeep and put it away for winter yesterday. Smell is still in my jacket. I used the last of it and have upgraded to WoolWax but I still have spray cans for the mills and lathe. I also use it on cylinder rods during the winter and anything exposed to the elements. I use my pressure pot sprayer, and have one dedicated for it.
Try adding Hoppes #9 to it......
I acquired a partial glass bottle of #9 with the old nitrobenzene formula at a garage sale. Smells like the 70’s !
Shop doors closed? It only take an hour and I'd have rodents, cats, birds or what ever. I never leave doors open.
For rust prevention on metal tools and water protection for circuits in the shop, we use Boeshield T-9. It leaves a thin, hard wax film that's pretty amazing. When we final wash and put our boats up for the winter, we spray the outboard motors with this stuff. It will last all through the following season by beading off the saltwater and washdowns and keeps the motor and non-metallic lines under the cowling looking factory fresh after 10+ years of abuse. It was originally developed for weather protecting aviation components by Boeing and has quite the following. I even keep a small squirt bottle in the junk drawer at home for squeaky door hinges, drawer slides, etc. The wax film acts like a hard grease and lasts way longer than any oil or spray film I've ever tried. I haven't used Fluid Film but from what I understand it leaves a slightly wet or oily film which is why we like the Boeshield for tools, machines, etc. as it doesn't collect dust. I'm sure each has it's best use and you probably can't go wrong keeping a bit of each on hand.
And Boeshield T-9 is also a great! desert topping......
I'm dense, please forgive me- Do you just hose everything down with either the Boeshield T-9 or the fluid film? What about the salty salty underside of my truck? I tried to run through the car wash yesterday but didn't want to wait in the 50 car line.
It's been raining pretty good "up here" run thru some puddles "At speed"...
re: washing the undercarriage: Set up the yard sprinkler in your driveway and drive over slowly, back and forth a few times. But as far as application of either, I only use Boeshield where I don't want an oily film. This is perfect for table saws, tools, and other things that I don't want to feel oil when I touch them or gather dust. In addition to my outboard motors, I've sprayed the top of my car engines with this stuff too. Seems to keep the plastic shiny and rubber nice for a lot longer. For undercoating or large sprays where you may want to reapply more frequently, I think Fluid Film is better (way cheaper, too). Do a google search on Fluid Film vs Boeshield T-9 and you'll find LOTS of opinions on how to use them. Good news is most of the posts are also positive for both, regardless of how you use them.
Washing it really makes it worse unless you use a neutralizer, rinse and then wash. If you just wash it even with hot water and soap you will just be pushing brine everywhere it may not have already made it
Washing at this time of year to undercoat ? I undercoat in the dead of summer, after the spring rains so the vehicle is as clean & dry it can be.
Pretty much screwed for now, unless you have a garage and lift. Every fall, I spend the 30 bucks to do the full truck wash with the underside being sprayed also. Then the next day, I put it up on ramps and put a Tyvek suit on and get underneath and WoolWax it. Fluid film is okay but definitely not as good and long lasting as WoolWax. I even drop my spare tire and take out the tail lights and coat inside the bed walls and above the spare tire. I buy it by the case, Gloss Black as my truck is black. You can get the flexible tubes, with the multi-directional spray tips and spray inside the rails and cross tubes. I use the cross tube caps and whatever else I can do, to keep a 60k truck (new price) from rusting out in 5 years. Then the next WoolWax tends to stick better and creeps under the rust scale better. Around here the shops charge anywhere up to 500 bucks to get it done but just like anything else, you’re better off doing it yourself, if you want it done well. I need to make a sprayer for my power wash that can roll under my truck, or just buy one. I try not and do the under wash too much during the winter as it takes off the film. YMMV
I have a pit, and even with this, washing the underside, you still need a good week of drying weather before coating IMHO.
I do mine in the dead of summer when it's 90 F out and vehicle is bone dry with fluid film. Do in side of doors on bottom and below doors where they rot out fast in salt. Do inside of all fenders and spray old Dexron with my varsol gun into all the frames and all over the differential housings. Then I drive down a dusty road for 3 km and all glued up. Underside is dirty, but 10 years old and people say my truck looks brand new. Simon C
Good idea about a dusty drive, never thought of that! The BC interior used to preserve trucks/equipment really well...until they started with the Brine on the roads a few years ago.
Been doing this along with my father for over 40 years. I get rid of my vehicles at 250000KMS and get top dollar for them as people say the whole body is as new, or close to it. Simon C
I wash my pickup twice a year whether it needs it or not, keep inside clean. I keep them long enough not worth much. I only average 11,000 a year. Vehicles are bad investments, I only keep them mechanically sound. My 84 dog was the only one I ever repainted. But I don't live where rust is a issue either.
I am so glad we don't have to go through all of that. Have an '01 F250 7.3 that I bought new on the yard with a spotless underside. Paint is original and faded from the sun but still in great shape.
They tried that brine in Edmonton and it was horrible! If if got below about -20C it made the roads slipperier. Like flooding a skating rink. Mechanic shops hated it too! It didn't do vehicles any good. So glad the city council came to their senses and went back to using coarse sand.
Goodness, here I thought I was doing better by just running through the car wash at least weekly. I'll keep all this stuff in mind for the summer time. Thanks guys!
If you use a undercoating that skims over quickly (but stays wet underneath) you don't have a dirt encrusted undercarriage.....And dirt hold moisture.
Just look at some of my owners (customers). They buy a machine, for big bucks, and just let it turn to absolute **** before they call me. Broken glass, trashed seats, rubber tracks that are torn to shreds, hydraulic leaks everywhere, and they don't call until the machine actually stops working, and they're looking at stoppage fees. This is fully half of my income, responding to stuff like this. Grease (or lack thereof) is close to the other half.
Around here, a 1/4 of the homes have some type of newer ag tractor, usually 4 wheel drive. Half of them have no implements. Just sitting outside, making payments, 100 hours or less a year. New thing, is his and her, riding mowers, or snow blowers. What always kills me is the triple nickel or Case backhoes or dozers, running when parked, not moved, until the next horse dies. Stuff I would love to have, ask them about it and it’s always more than 10k!