I just bought and transported this beauty home today and will be doing a restoration on it. The engine is good with new sleeves, pistons, bearings and overhauled head. Undercarriage is pretty decent. Left clutch doesnt disconnect well and the brakes seem to be worn. Other than that I hope the rest is just cosmetic repairs and paintjob. Any comments and advice appreciated https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dA-8Bfl-UFc&feature=youtu.be
Yes you will have some cosmetic repairs to be done to it alright but I think it would be certainly be worth the effort, it certainly would be if it were in Australia anyway.One thing I would do before I did anything serious about the steering clutch brake etc. would be to pull the seat out and check if the linkages etc. have any grease lately.There should be 3 grease nipples (if it is the same as mine) in a line directly underneath the seat. Also just there should be 2 small bolted plates (caps) one for each side. Check that they have grease and turn freely when you pull back on the steering clutch. You should be able to check the brake linings by taking the little peep hole off one on each side at rear of the machine. Mine has rear rippers makes it a bit hard to check but I think if you have a clean rear end should be able to either see in there or maybe even get your hand in there and feel how much brake lining you have. Not sure exactly what series yours would be wont be the same as mine even though mine was built about the same year. Mine is a d4d 85a series and as far as I am aware were only supplied to the Asian and Australian markets but it does appear from your youtube clip to have the same motor etc.
That's an interesting video, it certainly looks like an early example of D series going by the small diameter precleaner mounted forward of the stack, yet it appears to be a powershift transmission when you see what looks to be a freshly painted (or very clean) shift tower on the left side shot in the vid. All the ps D's I can recall had the later aircleaner setup (bigger precleaner set behind and to the left of the stack).
Some radiator protection would be nice too. Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
Lots of good info here http://www.acmoc.org/bb/forum.php , I have a 1961 D4C to tinker with
Thanks for the excellent comments guy´s. It´s a 58J, made in France I think. Yes the radiator guard came with it but is all bent, apparently it came off and was driven over by the dozer driver. I will try to fix it or build new. Thanks for the advice regarding grease the clutch mechanism and inspection holes, did not know about that. Yes it is a powershift. Do you know where it is best to buy & download a maintenance manual?
I think you will enjoy the project. I had some help from an experienced "Cat Skinner" to get my steering clutches correct. My machine had set for 5-6 years, and the initial turning over of the engine was ugly. I have put about 250 hrs. on her since the repair work. Will try to attach some photos to encourage you. 1967 78A D4D Direct Drive. d[ATTACH]113385.vB[/ATTACH] [email protected]
very nice find , good luck with the restoration ,take plenty of photos
I have fuel leak out of the fuel injection pump. It´s just a few drops but I want to fix it. It´s leaking out of the round opening in the picture, also there seems there are four bolt holes around the opening. Is there something missing there from the pump? I don´t have easy access to another D4 to compare what should be there.
That's your fuel transfer pump and there should be a service meter bolted on there. It is driven by the slotted tang. There seems to be a shaft seal leaking. This is from a D4D 83J which should be similar:
Excellent, thanks d9gdon Seems to be pretty straightforward to fix that seal leak.
Well not so easy fix after all I changed the outer seal, actually since the original was so wide then I put in two and as can be seen on the video the outer one doesn´t actually do anything since the axle doesn´t go that far out and I suspect the inner seal does not really do much either. When I removed the flange I noticed that there is a felt type seal of some kind with a rubber ring next to the gears on the pump axle. I could not figure out how that felt could be replaced!? Do you guy´s know anyone that has the whole flange from a used pump for sale? Perhaps with the hour meter unit as well? Would appreciate any info for contact with someone that sells used parts or could arrange to ship new parts to me since the local CAT dealer doesn´t seem very interested in servicing antique dozers here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjlxDDnLHT4&feature=youtu.be At the moment my CAT is sharing the shop space with two of my American musclecars, a ´72 Dodge Charger 440cid & a ´84 Corvette c4. I´m more used to working on that than dozers but it sure is fun learning about the CAT D4D
That's an old style transfer pump that uses three carbon packing type seals. Your missing the outer parts. Here is the service meter that would go with it. I'm using the parts book for a 955H so match what I've shown closely to what you have.
Work is progressing slowly. I found out that the left clutch brake adjustment is fully tightened and the brake pads are pretty worn. On the right side the brakes are covered in oil and the brake band is cracked or broken(failed to get picture of that) in one place so it doesn´t sit right on the clutch drum. I will just install new brakes. Where do you guy´s recommend i order new brake band with new wear pads already mounted?
First things first. You need a parts manual for the 58J. Some models list a complete band and pad assy., some only by band section and pad kit. If that model is dry brakes, you need to fix source of oil contamination, usually FD drive pinion seal.
On our 78A... D4D (dry brakes), we redid the brakes on it....the metal bands were ok & we just took them into a local shop that did custom brake lining work & they made up new linings to fit. Worked out well for us.
Thanks guy´s. Yes Old Magnet I have ordered service manual & parts list off Ebay. The previous owner thought he had a parts list but has been unable to find it yet. Possibly I might be able to find a brake shop or some old brake guy that still has the parts to line brake shoes. I will check. Unfortunately modern mechanics nowadays mostly just replace broken parts instead of really fixing them. But I will try to find a shop to do it. I must say it really is a lot of fun to work on this machine. It´s very well built and well thought out. Built of quality materials and made to last. I have respect for people who build things this way. A lot of equipment and vehichles these days are just junk designed to last no more than 8-10 years and parts are not fixable. Just throwaway and replace with new. I fixed up this 22ton Mercedes 2219 truck last winter and also had a good time doing that.
The restoration is coming along nicely
The Brake Drum can be 10 or 14 bolt fixing so have a count up, the back end is dry, as O.M. knows there is 6 possible ways that oil can infect this area, to get the lid off slacken the brakes and clutch rods inside the cover remove the top plates, pull the clutch lever-s and pull out the little pins from the clutch rods, look down the holes as you pull the levers, the pin will become visable,then keep on undoing things untill the lid will lift. tctractors
Restoration done today 20th march. This has been great fun and very interesting job. I have never restored or even worked much on dozer´s before so this has been a learning experience. My previous restorations have been mainly USA muscle cars & trucks so this was different entirely. It was really not that expensive since I didn´t really need any costly parts, just brakes & clutches, and such as well as sandblasting and paint of course. The machine was mechanically sound before just needed some TLC. Thanks to all the posters and commenters on this excellent website, to name a few Old Magnet, Nige, Cmark, tctractors and many others to many to list. Your inputs and help in locating parts has been invaluable. Thank you very much :drinkup I will buy the beer if you come to visit Iceland. The first 3 pictures have this weird light due to we had a solar eclipse here at 10am today. Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lJIn0vQ10I&list=UUJia7x2hxpEmFOQmYW1o-SA Solar eclipse (next one is in 11 years) http://www.mbl.is/frettir/innlent/2015/03/20/solmyrkvinn_i_otal_myndum/
Your machine came out looking great. Good job.
The recoil spring is a knacker job though, plus it would look better with some tin work over the track frames, but well done on your effort and care to keep this tractor alive. tctractors
Other then needing some recoil springs it does look like a good job well done. What's the purpose of that "roll bar"? Might be good to hold up a tarp but that's about all. LOL
Yair . . . Iceflyer . Even though it is broken and coil bound that recoil could still have enough bite to do some serious damage . . . take care and all precautions if you are going to remove it. Cheers.
Intetested in a 69 z28 to add to your colle tion ?
@ pafarmer, oh yes I´m very interested. Could you please send me pictures and info to [email protected] Thanks. Walter
I sure like your new screens!
Hello.I really want to visit Iceland in a year.Can help advice on repairs of any equipment examples will be in the links. http://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.php?showtopic=105807&page=1 . http://exkavator.ru/other/board/showthread.php?t=14232 . My mail: [email protected]